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200/9-74 


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CLiyt-v+-f-    -e<^y  «JL 


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THE 

THEORY  AND  PRACTICE 

OF    THE 

ART  OF  WEAVING 

BY  HAND  AND  POWER; 

WITH 

CALCULATIONS  AND  TABLES, 

FOR  THE  USE  OF  THOSE  CONNECTED  WITH  THE  TRADE. 


JOHN    WATSON, 


MANUFACTURER   AND  PRACTICAL   MACHINE  MAKER,  AND   PATENTEE   OP   THE 
DAMASK    POWER-LOOM. 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  DRAWINGS  OF  THE  BEST  POWER-LOOMS. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

HENRY    CAREY    BAIRD, 

INDUSTRIAL   PUBLISHER, 

406  Walnut  Street. 

1869. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2010  with  funding  from 

NCSU  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/theorypracticeofOOwats 


PREFACE 


To  acquire  a  competent  knowledge  of  any  Art  it 
must  be  learned,  either  by  reading,  verbal  teaching, 
observation  and  reflection,  or  actual  practice ;  and 
as  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  the  apprentice 
in  any  branch  of  business  to  be  told  the  theory  of 
it,  and  shown  how  to  use  the  tools  connected  with 
that  particular  branch,  it  must  be  of  use  to  the 
apprentice  or  young  beginner  in  the  Weaving  Trade 
also.  Believing  this,  I  have  written  this  volume  on 
the  theory  and  practice  of  Weaving,  and  have  through 
its  pages  given  instructions  how  any  one  with  ordinary 
capacity  and  perseverance  may  learn  the  theory  of  the 
Art.  The  Writer,  when  a  beginner  in  the  trade,  had 
often  felt  the  want  of  such  a  book,  and  considering  that 
others  would  be  similarly  situated,  was  induced  to 
undertake  to  write  this  work  ;  for  at  the  time  he  began 
his  apprenticeship  in  the  Power-Loom  Trade,  it  was 

86894 


4  PREFACE. 

more  the  rule  to  keep  the  apprentice  in  ignorance,  tban 
teach  him  the  theory  of  the  Art ;  however,  that  nar- 
row-minded selfishness  is,  happily,  now  the  exception. 
This  volume  is  written  more  especially  for  Power-Loom 
Weaving,  but  it  may  prove  of  equal  use  to  the  Hand- 
Loom  manufacturer,  as  the  principles  in  both  are  the 
same. 


CONTENTS. 


CONTENTS 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 

The  Antiquity  of  Weaving — The  Indian  Mode  of  Weaving — An 
■  old  Tradition — Weaving  introduced  into  Great  Britain — The  Pro- 
gress of  Weaving,  found  from  the  Consumption  of  Cotton — Prices 
of  Cotton  in  different  years — The  probable  increase  of  the  Consump- 
tion of  Cotton. 

CHAPTER  I. 

Gristing  Yarn — Diameter  of  Reel — Hanks  and  Yards  in  one 
Spyndle — Yarn  in  Cope — Yam  on  Beam — Yarn  in  Chain — How 
Spinners  make  an  Average  Number — Linen  Yarn — Wool  Yarn — 
The  Scotch  and  English  Reed — The  Fineness  of  Cloth  by  Porters — 
A  Uniform  Standard — Calculation  of  Warps — Number  of  ends  in  a 
Web— Warp  in  a  Web— Short  Method— The  Shrinkage  in  Cloth 
— Calculation  of  Wefts — Short  Method  for  finding  the  Quantity  of 
Weft. 

CHAPTER  II. 

Ancient  Mode  of  Weaving,  &c. — Winding  Machine — Winding 
from  Bobbins,  Copes,  and  Hanks — Pirn  Winding  Machine — Warping 
Mill — Warping  by  Power — Warping  Striped  Work — How  to  make 
the  Patterns — Beaming  Yarn,  Dyed  in  Chain — Sizing — Dressing 
—  Crank-Dressing  Machines  —  Cylinder  Machine  —  Setting  the 
Reeds — How  to  make  Dressing — Tape-Leg  Dressing  Machine — 
Drawing  or  Entering  the  Web — Twisting — Draughts  or  Treading — 
Plain  Cloth — Tweeling — Three  Leaf  Tweel — Herring  Bone  Tweel — 
Four  Leaf  Tweel — Sheeting  Tweel — A  Seven,  Eight,  and  Nine  Leaf 
Tweel — Blanket  Tweel — Five  Leaf  Tweel  for  Damasks — Ten  Leaf 


6  CONTEXTS. 

Fancy  Tweel— Twelve  Leaf  Fancy  Tweel— Sixteen  Leaf  Satin 
Tweel — Diapers  for  Three,  Fonr,  Five,  Six.  Seven,  and  Eight  Leaves 
—Eight  Leaf  Diaper,  with  Fourteen  Treads— Ten  Leaf  Diaper,  with 
Thirty-six  Treads. 

CHAPTER  m. 
Starting  Power  Looms — How  to  arrange  and  place  the  Looms — 
How  to  Level  the  Looms — How  to  find  the  Length  of  the  Belt — 
Selecting  the  Shuttles — How  to  Pitch  the  Loom — Putting  the  Web 
in  the  Loom — How  to  find  the  proper  Pinion  for  a  given  numher  of 
Shots. 

CHAPTER  IV. 
On  Power-Looms — The  old  Power-Loom  at  Pollockshaws— The 
advantage  of  its  Uptaking  Motion  and  its  Moveable  Reed — An  old 
Method  for  driving  Power-Looms — Double  Looms,  Vertical  and 
Horizontal — Their  Advantages  and  Disadvantages  for  two  Webs — 
Two  "Webs  in  the  Hand  Loom — Air  Pump  Pick — Common  Power- 
Loom — Weft  Stopper — Fly  Reed — Bullough's  Specification — Re- 
marks on  Bullough's  Improvement — Todd's  Loom — Float  or  Scob 
Preventer — Shuttles  with  Hooks  or  Cutters — A  Contrivance  for 
Changing  the  Shuttle — Articles  about  a  Loom. 

CHAPTER  V. 
Check  and  Damask  Power-Loom — Description  of  the  Drawings — 
How  the  Jacquard  gets  its  motion — Fonn  of  Cam — Disengaging 
Apparatus — Mode  of  Working  the  Heddles — The  Stenting  Rollers 
— Selvage  Protector — Shifting  of  the  Shuttle  Boxes — Taking  back 
the  Driver — Box  Protector — Double  Weft  Stopper — Mounting  a 
Harness  Loom — Mails,  Leads,  Harness  Twine — Slabstock — Harness 
or  Hole  Board — Standers — How  to  prepare  the  Harness — Tying  up 
the  Harness — Position  of  the  Jacquard  Machine — Adjusting  the 
Jacquard  Machine — Making  Cloth — Pressure  Harness  Looms — How 
the  figure  is  formed — How  to  find  the  Threads  for  each  Mail — Draw- 
ing the  Web — Mounting  the  Heddles — How  to  regulate  the  number 
of  Shots  for  ea<°  Card — The  use  of  the  Stenting  Rollers  for  Flax 
Yarn — Shedding  a  Pressure  Harness — Power-Loom,  with  six 
Shuttles — Making  Cloth  Patterns — Hints  for  making  Check  Looms 
— Putting  on  the  Check  Pattern. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


Lappet  Weaving,  &c. — Imitation  of  Sewing — Ground  of  Lappet 
Cloth — Different  kinds  of  Whip — How  "Whip  should  be  made — 
Lappet  Loom — Lappet  "Wheel — New  kind  of  Lappet  Wheel — Lap- 
pet Needles  and  Pins — Lappet  Lay — Arranging  the  Frames  and 
Needles — Best  kinds  of  Lappet  Looms — Starting  a  Lappet  "Web- — 
Drop  Lappets — Gauze  Stripes — Plain  Gauze — Gauze  made  without 
Heddles — Jacquard  Machine  for  working  Gauze  and  Lappets — Sew- 
ing Frames  for  Looms — The  Principle  of  Sewing  Frames — Mode  of 
working  the  Frames — Rack  and  Circle  Frames — Tube  or  Bottle 
Sewing  Frames — The  Difficulties  of  applying  the  Sewing  Frames  to 
the  Power-Loom. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Mounting  for  T\veels,  Diapers,  &c. — How  the  Tweeling  Shafts  are 
Driven — Top  Mounting  for  Three  Leaves — Four  Leaf  Mounting — 
Double  Barrel — Mounting  for  Five  Leaf  Tweel — Traverse  of  Treadle 
— Diameter  of  Barrel — Tweeling  Treadles — Mounting  for  a  Six 
Leaf  Tweel — Mounting  for  a  Seven  Leaf  Tweel — Mounting  for  an 
Eight  Leaf  Tweel — Four  Shots  of  Tweel  and  Plain  alternately-*— 
Plain  and  Tweel  Stripes  in  the  Warp — Diaper  and  Plain  Cloth — 
Mounting  for  a  Ten  Leaf  Tweel — Mounting  for  a  Twelve  Leaf 
Tweel — Mounting  for  large  Tweels — Mounting  for  a  Sixteen  Leaf 
Tweel — Mounting  for  Diapers — Mounting  for  Three  Leaf  Diapers — 
Mounting  for  Four  Leaf  Diapers — Mounting  for  Five,  Six,  Seven, 
and  Eight  Leaf  Diapers — Mounting  for  Ten  Leaf  Diapers,  with 
Thirty-six  Treads— Diced  Work— Double  Cloth  Mounting — Tube 
Weaving — Bags  woven  without  a  Seam — Bed  and  Toilet  Covers — 
To  make  Broad  Cloth  in  a  narrow  Loom — Crumb-Cloths — Carpets 
Plain  and  Tweel,  with  Weft  Cords — Tape  Checks  made  with  one 
Shuttle. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Calculations,  Tables,  &c. — Costing  Goods — Bath. ~  for  Shirting — 

Rating  for  a  Tape  Check — Rating  for  a  Blue  and  White  Check — 

Form  of  Rating  Book — Oncost  Expenses — Statement  for  Expenses 

for  One  Year — Charges  for  One  Loom  per  Day — The  Advantage 


8  CONTENTS. 

of  a  Large  Production — Manufacturers',  Warpers',  and  Beamers1 
Tables. 

CHAPTER  IX. 

Miscellaneous  Remarks  connected  with  Power -Loom  Weaving — 
Erecting  a  New  Factory — Situation — Size  of  the  Mill — Arrange- 
ment— Steam  Boilers — How  to  Keep  the  Boilers  Clean — Manage- 
ment of  Furnaces — Smoke  Burning — New  Patent  Furnace — Steam 
Engines — Speed  Indicator — Gearing — New  Mode  of  Driving  Looms 
without  Belting — Calculations  of  Speeds — Speed  of  Engine — Speed 
of  Shafts — Examples — Safety  Valves — Quadrant — New  Mode  of 
Picking  (W.  &  J.  Todd's.) 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 


To  discover  the  origin  of  Weaving  would  be 
rather  a  difficult  task,  and  one  that  does  not  form 
part  of  our  plan  in  this  work ;  our  purpose  being 
more  to  show  its  present  state,  and  give  a  description 
of  the  latest  improvements  that  have  been  made  in 
the  power-loom,  than  to  go  into  a  long  history  of  its 
origin,  although-  we  believe  that  it  would  be  both 
interesting  and  amusing  if  such  a  history  had  been 
kept,  there  being  scarcely  anything  of  more  impor- 
tance to  the  human  family  than  the  records  of  the 
arts  of  the  preceding  generations.  However,  we  will 
give  some  of  the  remarks  that  can  be  found.  It  will 
be  seen  that  the  art  of  weaving  is  very  ancient  from 
the  following  passages  taken  from  the  sacred  volume  : 
— Exodus  xxxv.  25,  "  And  all  the  women  that  were 
wise-hearted  did  spin  with  their  hands,  and  brought 
that  which  they  had  spun,  both  of  blue,  and  of  purple, 
and  of  scarlet,  and  of  fine  linen."  35,  "Them  hath 
he  filled  with  wisdom  of  heart,  to  work  all  manner  of 

b 

D.  H.  HILL  LlBWAITir 

North  Carolina  State  Coll 


10  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

work,  of  the  engraver,  and  of  the  workman,  and  of 
the  embroiderer,  in  blue,  and  in  purple,  in  scarlet, 
and  in  fine  linen,  and  of  the  weaver,  even  of  them 
that  do  work,  and  of  those  that  devise  cunning  work." 
1  Chronicles  ii.  23,  "And  he  slew  an  Egyptian,  a 
man  of  great  stature,  five  cubits  high ;  and  in  the 
Egyptian's  hand  was  a  spear  like  a  weaver's  beam, 
and  he  went  down  to  him  with  a  staff,  and  plucked 
the  spear  out  of  the  Egyptian's  hand,  and  slew  him 
with  his  own  spear."  Job  vii.  6,  "My  days  are 
swifter  than  a  weaver's  shuttle,  and  are  spent  without 
hope."'  vflany  more  passages  from  the  sacred  volume 
might  be  taken  to  show  that  the  ancients  were  very 
well  up  to  the  art  of  weaving,  although  we  do  not 
understand  the  mode  they  had  of  doing  it.  It  is 
evident  they  were  able  to  make  a  great  many  kinds 
of  figured  work.  It  is  frequently  stated  by  writer's 
that  weaving  is  one  of  the  arts  which  furnishes  one  of 
the  main  distinctions  between  savage  and  civilized 
life.  One  says — "  For  though  we  find  finery  and 
external  adornment  common  to  every  people,  yet 
comfortable  clothing  is  almost  exclusively  confined  to 
the  inhabitants  of  those  portions  of  the  globe  which 
are  far  advanced  in  civilization." 

The  Hindoos  and  Egyptians  have  been  acquainted 
with  weaving  for  thousands  of  years,  and  it  is  well- 
known,  that  the  fabrics  made  in  India  were  much 
valued,  and  yet  they  have  made  little  or  no  improve- 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  11 

ment  in  their  looms,  although  it  appears  that  looms 
were  originally  invented  in  the  East.  One  writer 
says,  when  speaking  of  the  common  forms  of  the 
loom,  "that  simple  as  they  are,  they  can  yet  be 
favourably  contrasted  with  the  rude  contrivances  still 
pursued  in  India,  where  the  wretched  weaver  per- 
forms his  labours  in  the  open  air,  choosing  his  station 
under  trees  whose  shade  may  protect  him  from  the 
scorching  rays  of  the  sun.  Here  extending  the 
threads  which  compose  the  warp  of  his  intended 
cloth  lengthways,  between  two  bamboo  rollers,  which 
are  fastened  to  the  turf  by  wooden  pins,  he  digs  a 
hole  in  the  earth  large  enough  to  contain  his  legs 
when  in  a  sitting  posture,  then,  suspending  to  a 
branch  of  a  tree  the  cords  which  are  intended  to 
cause  the  reciprocal  raising  and  depressing  of  the 
alternate  threads  of  his  warp,  he  fixes  underneath 
and  connected  with  the  cords  two  loops,  into  which 
inserting  the  great  toe  of  either  foot,  he  is  ready  to 
commence  his  operations.  The  shuttle  with  which  he 
causes  the  cross -threads  or  woof  to  interlace  the  warp 
is  in  form  like  the  netting  needle,  and,  being  some- 
what longer  than  the  breadth  of  the  warp,  is  made  to 
perform  the  office  of  a  baton,  by  striking  the  threads 
of  the  woof  close  up  to  each  other." 

With  this  rude  apparatus  the  patient  Hindoo  succeeds 
in  weaving  fabrics  which,  for  delicacy  of  texture,  can- 
not be  surpassed,  and  can  scarcely  be  rivalled  by  the 


12  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

European  weaver,  even  when  his  labours  are  aided  by 
the  most  elaborate  machinery.  But  it  is  only  in 
climates  where  the  absolute  natural  wants  of  men  are 
few,  and  under  systems  of  government,  where  the 
oppressions  of  the  dominant  caste  deprive  the  unhappy 
bulk  of  the  people  of  all  means  for  obtaining  more 
than  suffices  for  the  barest  supply  of  those  wants,  that 
such  labour  can  be  performed. 

An  American  writer  gives  the  following  on  the 
antiquity  of  weaving;  and  we  leave  the  reader  to  form 
his  own  opinion  of  it : — 

"'It  appears,'  says  His  Holiness,  Pope  Alexander 
VI.,  'that  the  world  was  first  indebted  to  one  Arkite 
Ghiden  Ghelen,  an  extremely  ingenious  artisan  of 
Nodville,  for  the  first  regularly  manufactured  piece  of 
cloth  ever  produced  on  the  surface  of  this  terrestrial 
globe;'  and,  although  it  was  akin  to  what  we  at  this 
day  and  generation  call  matting,  and  produced  by 
twisting  and  interlacing  leaf  stems  and  fibres  together, 
yet  the  workmanship  cannot  be  surpassed  by  the  best 
manufacturers  of  Bolton  cloths  of  the  present  day. 
From  this  it  would  appear  that  His  Holiness  had  a 
sample  of  the  cloth  actually  in  his  possession.  Perhaps; 
sewing  the  fig  leaves,  as  mentioned  in  the  Book  of 
Genesis,  has  reference  to  the  same  process. 

'"An  obvious  improvement  on  the  garment  of 
leaves/  proceeds  His  Holiness,  'which  was  suggested 
by  twisting  the  peel  of  rushes  into  fine  strings,  by 


THE  ART  OF  "WEAVING.  13 

which  means  superior  textures  were  produced;  but  this 
improvement  was  not  adopted  generally,  in  the  part  of 
the  country  of  which  we  speak,  till  after  the  death  of 
Methuselah.'  '  It  did  not  escape  the  notice  of  the  mat 
weavers,  that  their  work  was  rendered  more  flexible 
and  agreeable  to  the  wearer  (particularly  for  under- 
garments), by  the  use  of  a  finer  fibre,  and  accordingly 
we  find  that  numerous  trials  were  actually  made  with 
the  fibres  of  various  kinds  of  plants,  such  as  those  of 
the  hemp  and  flax  species.' 

"It  is  curious  how  the  descendants  of  our  first 
parents  obtained  the  knowledge  of  spinning  flax  into 
thread.  We  are  credibly  informed  that  it  was  by 
supernatural  agency.  We  are  indeed  told  by  C.  G.  G., 
a  learned  metaphysician  of  Oxford,  that  a  tradition 
exists  in  England  which  goes  far  to  prove  that  spin- 
ning was  first  effectually  practised  in  that  country  ; 
but  we  disregard  such  testimony,  as  we  have  found 
the  true  and  original  story  from  which  C.  G.  G.'s  one 
is  evidently  copied.  This  discovery  we  have  made  in 
the  collection  of  Sir  Henry  Hunlock,  and  we  think 
it  right  to  give  his  version,  which  is  as  follows : — 

"  '  There  was  once  an  old  woman  and  her  daughter 
who  lived  at  the  side  of  a  hill  (not  under  a  hill  as  the 
Oxonian  would  fain  have  it),  in  the  midst  of  a  forest, 
near  Nodville.  They  were  very  poor,  and  their  only 
support  was  obtained  from  selling  the  thread  which 
the   daughter  spun    with  her  spindle    and    distaff. 


14  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

During  the  long  winter,  when  the  roads  were  so  bad  that 
merchants  of  the  surrounding  nations  could  not  come 
to  purchase  the  thread,  the  daughter,  who  was  one  of 
the  most  lovely  creatures  on  earth,  worked  without 
cessation,  in  order  that  she  might  have  enough  of 
thread  when  the  spring  market  came,  to  enable  her  to 
purchase  a  cloak  for  her  mother,  and  a  scarlet  shawl 
for  herself,  in  order  that  they  might  be  properly 
attired  while  attending  their  devotions.  (Where 
these  shawls  and  cloaks  were  manufactured,  is  a  ques- 
tion for  hierologists  to  solve.) 

"  '  It  so  happened  that  the  king  of  that  country, 
whose  name  was  Zannkul  K.  Euzen,  had  an  only  son, 
who,  while  out  one  day  deer-hunting,  went  astray  in 
the  forest  of  Akiel,  and  called  at  the  widow's  cottage 
to  inquire  the  way.  He  was  greatly  struck  with  the 
girl's  beauty,  and  not  less  with  the  numerous  hanks 
of  yarn  which  lay  upon  the  floor  of  the  cottage,  and 
equally  attested  her  skill  and  industry.  He  asked 
how  it  happened,  that  she  had  collected  such  an 
immense  pile,  and  the  old  woman,  whose  name  was 
Zabozok,  replied  that  her  daughter  had  spun  the 
whole  in  a  week.  '  In  a  week ! '  exclaimed  the 
astonished  prince ;  '  if  this  be  true,  I  have  found  a 
'  gal '  more  worthy  of  my  attachment  than  any  other 
in  the  whole  country.  I  will  send  you  a  load  of  flax, 
and  if  she  has  it  done  by  the  end  of  a  week,  I  will, 
without  any  other  proof  of  her  merit,  choose  her  as 


THE  AET  OF  WEAVING.  15 

my  bride ;  but,  if  not,  I  will  have  you  both  cut  in 
pieces  and  thrown  to  the  cormorants  and  loons,  for 
deceiving  the  son  of  your  sovereign.' 

u  l  On  the  very  next  day,  a  long  train  of  camels, 
laden  with  flax,  stood  before  the  door  of  the  cottage, 
and  the  drivers,  having  unloaded  them,  told  the  girl 
that  she  must  spin  this  quantity  in  a  week,  or  pre- 
pare for  death.  When  they  departed,  her  poor  heart 
was  crushed  with  despair.  She,  however,  was  un- 
willing to  reproach  her  mother,  even  by  a  look,  but 
she  went  into  the  forest,  and  sitting  down  under  a 
tree  began  bitterly  to  bewail  her  sad  fate.  While  she 
was  thus  weeping  and  lamenting,  a  decrepit  old  man 
came  up,  and  enquired  the  cause  of  her  tears,  and  in 
reply  she  told  him  the  whole  story.  '  Do  not  weep, 
daughter,'  he  said,  '  I  will  execute  every  one  of  the 
tasks  imposed  upon  you  by  the  prince,  provided  you 
will  either  give  me  your  eldest  son  when  he  is  twelve 
months  and  a  day  old,  or  that  you  shall,  in  the  inter- 
vening time,  find  out  my  name.'  She  agreed  at  once  to 
the  terms.  The  old  man,  by  some  mysterious  agency 
conveyed  away  the  flax,  and  about  an  hour  before 
the  time  appointed  for  the  prince's  arrival  (which  was 
half-past  five  o'clock  in  the  morning)  returned  with 
the  finest  and  best  twisted  thread  that  had  ever  been 
seen  in  Nodville.  The  prince,  according  to  his  promise, 
married  the  girl,  and  conveyed  her  with  her  mother 
to  the  palace,  which  stood  upon  a  beautiful  rising 


16  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

piece  of  ground  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  from  the 
city,  and  overlooking  it.  (This  palace  must  have 
been  a  very  magnificent  building,  as  it  cost  rather 
more  than  eleven  and  a  quarter  talents  of  gold.) 

"  'Every  Monday  morning, before  sunrise,  the  prince 
gave  out  to  his  beloved  the  quantity  of  flax  which  he 
expected  to  be  spun  during  the  week,  and  every 
Saturday  night  the  yarn  was  made  ready  for  him  by 
the  mysterious  old  man.  At  length  the  princess 
became  the  mother  of  a  beautiful  boy,  and  the 
thoughts  of  the  bargain  she  had  made  almost  drove 
her  to  distraction.  Every  effort  she  made  to  discover 
the  name  of  the  wonderful  spinner  utterly  failed,  and 
he,  at  every  visit,  reminded  her  that  the  time  was 
near  when  he  would  have  the  right  to  claim  her  child. 

"  '  One  evening,  as  she  sat  oppressed  with  melancholy, 
her  husband,  who  had  just  returned  from  hunting, 
enquired  the  cause  of  her  sadness,  but  she  wag  unable 
to  answer  him  a  word.  '  Come,  my  love,'  said  he,  '  do 
not  be  cast  down,  and  I  will  entertain  you  with  an 
account  of  a  very  surprising  incident  which  occurred  to 
me  this  very  day.  I  lost  my  way  while  pursuing  a 
fine  stag,  which  ran  towards  the  great  rocks  beyond  the 
forest.  While  searching  for  his  lurking  place,  I 
thought  I  heard  a  human  voice,  and  following  the 
direction  of  the  sound,  came  to  a  cave,  where  I  saw  an 
old  man,  who  did  not  notice  my  approach,  so  deeply 
was  he  engaged  in  a  strange  sort  of  labour ;  he  was 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  17 

spinning,  not  as  you  do  with  the  distaff,  but  with 
wheels  which  flew  round  as  rapidly  as  lightning,  and 
gave  out  thread  like  water  falling  from  a  mountain  tor- 
rent, and  all  the  while  he  never  ceased  singing  : — 

'  My  mistress,  little  she  knows  my  name, 

Which  shan't  be  forgot,  which  shan't  be  forgot, 

When  a  prince  as  heir  to  the  fortune  I  claim, 

Of  Wallotty  Trot,  Wallotty  Trot. 

I  come,  at  the  end  of  a  year  and  a  day, 

And  take  the  young  prince,  my  heir,  away. 

With  my  whack  !  she  goes  ! 

While  nobody  knows, 

My  trusty  machine, 

In  this  cave  unseen, 

Here  is  the  spot 

For  Wallotty  Trot. 

" '  The  princess  made  her  husband  repeat  the 
rhymes  several  times,  until  she  was  sure  that  she 
could  remember  them  perfectly,  and  waited  with  con- 
fidence for  the  return  of  the  old  man.  He  came  at 
the  appointed  time,  and  claimed  the  child.  '  Stop, 
neighbour,'  said  she,  '  there  goes  another  word  to  that 
bargain.  I  have  found  out  your  name  ;  it  is  Wallotty 
Trot.'  '  You  have,  indeed,  detected  my  name,'  said 
he,  '  and  my  business  on  earth  is  well  nigh  finished  ; 
but  before  I  depart  I  am  bound  to  tell  you  the  secrets 
of  my  art.'  So  saying,  he  went  into  the  forest,  and  in 
a  few  seconds  returned  with  his  wheels.  He  then 
taught  the  lady  their  use,  showing  her  that  she  could 
spin  sixty-six  times  more  with  them  than  she  could 
accomplish  by  means  of  the  distaff,  and  then  vanished, 


18  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

after  which  he  was  never  again  seen  in  that  part  of 
the  world. 

"  '  The  prince  and  princess  taught  this  new  branch 
of  industry  to  their  subjects,  which  so  enriched  them 
that  all  the  surrounding  nations  regarded  them  with 
envy  and  admiration.' 

"  These  wheels  are  of  similar  construction  to  those 
introduced  into  Great  Britain  by  Samuel  Crompton, 
which  are  known  by  the  appellation  of  the  "  hall-in- 
the-wood  "  machine.  It  is  unnecessary  for  us  to  give 
drawings  and  descriptions  of  them ;  Mr.  Baines  of 
Leeds,  and  Dr.  Ure  of  London,  in  their  histories  of 
the  progress  of  the  cotton  manufacture  in  Great 
Britain,  having  already  done  so. 

"  After  the  death  of  Methuselah,  the  art  of  weav- 
ing appears  to  have  made  considerable  advances  in 
many  parts  of  the  East,  and  particularly  in  China, 
India,  and  Persia.  The  first  loom  of  which  there  is 
any  authentic  record  still  in  existence  is  that  invented 
by  Arkite  Ghiden  Ghelen,  when  a  lad  of  about 
seventy  years  of  age  ;  and  after  having  been  at  great 
trouble  and  expense,  we  have  succeeded  in  procuring 
a  drawing  of  it,  copied  from  an  ancient  parchment 
scroll,  found  among  the  curiosities  of  Sesac,  founder 
of  the  Egyptian  dynasty,  (who  reigned  thirty-four 
years ;)  but  from  the  dilapidated  state  of  the  docu- 
ment, and  the  draughtsman  (Alexis  Kersivenus  of 
Alexandria)  not  being  a  weaver  himself,  we  fear  it  is 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  19 

not  in  every  particular  like  the  original.  This  scroll 
appears  (from  indorsements  on  its  back)  to  have  been 
once  in  the  possession  of  the  Emperor  of  China, 
Teling  Ching  Ouang,  from  whom  it  descended  to 
Chao  Kong-hi-hi,  his  successor. 

"  From  this  representation  the  loom  was  of  a  vertical 
construction,  and  seems  to  have  been  chiefly  applied 
to  the  manufacture  of  plaids  and  chequers,  the  pat- 
terns of  which  were  most  probably  suggested  by  the 
interlacing  of  bark  or  stripes  of  broad-leaved  plants. 
Indeed,  the  modern  plaids  so  obviously  represent  this 
origin  of  their  patterns,  that  no  one,|  except  the  most 
sceptical,  can  for  a  moment  doubt  the  correctness  of 
this  opinion. 

"The  process  of  weaving  in  this  loom  must  have 
been  very  tedious,  and,  of  course,  the  fabrics  pro- 
duced would  be  expensive  in  the  same  proportion. 
The  inventor  does  not  appear  to  have  been  acquainted 
with  any  instrument  analogous  to  the  shuttle,  for  we 
find  from  the  perusal  of  accidental  records  (imperfect 
as  they  certainly  are),  that  some  weavers  drew  the 
weft  through  the  web  with  their  fingers,  and  others 
used  an  implement  somewhat  like  a  knitting  needle, 
but  having  a  hook  at  one  end,  similar  to  the  crook  of 
a  shepherd's  staff,  which  doubtless  insinuated  the  first 
idea  of  that  most  useful  instrument." 

There  is  no  very  reliable  authority  to  tell  us  of  the 
different  kinds  of  implements  (mountings)  used  by 


20  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

the  ancients  in  weaving  the  different  kinds  of  figured 
cloth,  the  only  description  being  that  of  the  Indian 
loom ;  and  we  shall  now  proceed  to  show  the  progress 
it  has  made  in  our  own  country. 

"When  weaving  was  first  introduced  into  Great 
Britain  the  exact  date  is  not  known,  but  it  appears, 
from  what  we  can  gather  from  history,  that  there  was 
a  considerable  number  of  weavers  in  London  in  the 
year  1351.  Twelve  years  previous  to  the  above  date,  in 
the  city  of  Bristol,  which  is  118  miles  west  of  Lon- 
don, we  find  looms  started  for  weaving  woollen  cloth ; 
very  likely  these  looms  were  put  up  by  foreigners,  as 
England  was  frequently  invaded  previous  to  this  period. 

It  will  be  seen  from  early  history,  that  the  inhabi- 
tants, who  had  settled  near  the  sea-coast,  possessed 
some  property,  and  were  therefore  more  easily  inti- 
midated than  those  tribes  that  were  dispersed  through 
the  forest.  None  of  them  cultivated  the  ground ; 
they  all  lived  by  raising  cattle  and  hunting.  Their 
dress  consisted  of  skins ;  their  habitations  were  huts 
made  of  wicker-work  and  coarse  rushes  ;  their  priests, 
the  Druids,  together  with  the  sacred  women,  exer- 
cised a  kind  of  authority  over  them. 

We  find  the  following  letter,  which  was  written 
by  one  of  the  kings  about  the  year  1030,  from  which 
will  be  seen  that  many  foreigners  must  have  been  in 
England.  In  it  mention  is  made  of  rich  mantles  and 
garments  being  given  as  presents. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  21 

Part  of  this  letter  is  given,  not  for  anything  it  con- 
tains concerning  weaving,  but  to  show  the  strong 
probability  that  this  country  was  first  indebted  to 
foreigners  for  this  art ;  as  we  see  from  the  letter, 
that  the  king  himself  was  on  friendly  terms  with 
them. 

"  Canute,  King  of  all  Denmark,  England,  and 
Norway,  and  part  of  Sweden,  to  Egelnoth,  the  Metro- 
politan, to  Archbishop  Alfric,  to  all  the  Bishops  and 
Chiefs,  and  to  all  the  nation  of  the  English,  both 
Nobles  and  Commoners,  greeting.  I  write  to  inform 
you  that  I  have  lately  been  at  Rome,  to  pray  for  the 
remission  of  my  sins,  and  for  the  safety  of  my  king- 
doms, and  of  the  nations  that  are  subject  to  my 
sceptre.  It  is  long  since  I  bound  myself  by  vow  to 
make  this  pilgrimage,  but  I  have  been  hitherto  pre- 
vented by  affairs  of  state,  and  other  impediments. 
Now,  however,  I  return  humble  thanks  to  the 
Almighty  God,  that  he  has  allowed  me  to  visit  the 
tombs  of  the  blessed  Apostles,  Peter  and  Paul,  and 
every  holy  place  within  and  without  the  city  of  Rome, 
and  to  honour  and  venerate  them  in  person.  And 
this  I  have  done,  because  I  had  learned  from  my 
teachers,  that  the  Apostle  St.  Peter  received  from  the 
Lord  the  great  power  of  binding  and  loosing,  with 
the  keys  of  the  kingdom  of  heaven  ;  on  this  account 
I  thought  it  highly  useful  to  solicit  his  patronage 
with  God. 


22  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

"Be  it  moreover  known  to  you,  that  there  was  at 
the  festival  of  Easter  a  great  assemblage  of  noble  per- 
sonages, with  the  Pope  John,  and  the  Emperor  Con- 
rad, namely,  all  the  chiefs  of  the  nations,  from  Mount 
Gargano  to  the  nearest  sea,  who  all  received  me 
honourably,  and  made  me  valuable  presents ;  but 
particularly  the  emperor,  who  gave  me  many  gold 
and  silver  vases,  with  rich  mantles  and  garments. 
I  therefore  took  the  opportunity  to  treat  with  the 
pope,  the  emperor,  and  the  prince,  on  the  grievances 
of  my  people,  both  English  and  Danes,  that  they 
might  enjoy  more  equal  law,  and  more  secure  safe- 
guard in  their  way  to  Rome,  nor  be  detained  at  so 
many  barriers,  nor  harassed  by  unjust  exactions.  My 
demands  were  granted  both  by  the  Emperor  and  by 
King  Rodulf,  to  whom  the  greater  part  of  the  barriers 
belongs,  and  it  was  enacted  by  all  the  princes,  that  my 
men,  whether  pilgrims  or  merchants,  should,  for  the 
future,  go  to  Rome  and  return  in  full  security,  with- 
out detention  at  the  barriers,  or  the  payment  of 
unlawful  tolls." 

At  the  time  the  above  letter  was  written,  the 
inhabitants  of  Britain  who  wore  woven  clothing  must 
have  got  it  from  the  East,  or  the  Continental  nations ; 
but  when  we  pass  on  to  the  year  1376,  we  find 
woollen  cloth  made  in  Ireland,  and  a  company  of 
linen  weavers  established  in  London  ten  years  after- 
wards.     North-west  from  London  262  miles,  stands 


THE  AKT  OF  WEAVING.  23 

Kendal,  a  borough  town,  which  has  long  been  cele- 
brated for  its  woollen  manufacture,  and  mention  is 
made  of  its  coarse  cloth  as  far  back  as  the  year  1390, 
and  from  the  spirit  and  industry  of  its  inhabitants, 
they  have  continued  to  flourish  ever  since ;  they  have 
now  mills  established  for  both  spinning  and  weaving. 
We  now  pass  on  to  Manchester,  the  great  centre  of 
the  cotton  manufacture,  and  we  find  in  the  year  1641, 
the  merchants  of  that  place  buying  linen  yarn  from 
the  Irish  in  great  quantities,  and  getting  it  woven 
into  cloth,  and  then  returning  the  cloth  to  Ireland  to 
be  sold. 

In  the  year  1685,  Louis  the  XIV.  revoked  an  edict 
which  was  issued  by  Henry  the  IV.,  in  the  year  1598, 
the  effect  of  which  was  that  many  foreign  weavers 
came  to  Great  Britain  at  this  time,  all  adding  to  the 
industry  of  the  country.  Many  other  incidents 
might  be  taken  notice  of,  but  we  will  pass  on  to  the 
factory  period,  and  we  preface  our  remarks  with  a 
quotation  from  Dr.  Ure  : — 

"How different  is  the  spirit  of  modern  philosophy 
since  it  was  first  directed  into  the  path  of  utility  by 
Galileo,  Bacon,  Pascal,  and  Newton.  It  places  its 
chief  delight  and  honour  in  investigating  the  relations 
of  number,  figure,  and  all  material  substances,  in 
order  to  apply  the  resulting  discoveries,  to  assuage 
the  evils  and  to  multiply  the  enjoyments  of  social 
life.      In  its  modern  familiarity  with  the  sublimest  of 


24  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

speculations,  that  of  the  equilibrium  and  movements 
of  the  celestial  bodies,  mechanical  science  does  not, 
however,  disdain  to  study  the  most  humble  machine 
of  manufacturing  industry,  and,  indeed,  may  hold 
many  of  them  up  to  the  admiration  of  the  transcen- 
dentalist,  as  the  happiest  achievements  of  the  human 
mind.  Should  any  one  ask  where,  let  him  enter  a 
cotton  factory  and  look  around." 

"  'We  enter  the  factory  and  look  around,  and  we 
first  make  enquiries  as  to  age,  and  obtain  answers 
which  satisfy  us  that  the  factory  system  is  little  more 
than  eighty  years  old ;  then  we  observe  the  fine 
arrangement  of  the  different  machines  connected  with 
power-loom  weaving,  the  mode  of  working  them,  the 
regularity  of  their  management,  &c ,  which  things 
constitute  the  principal  theme  of  this  volume;  we 
allow  the  mind  to  contemplate  the  great  number  of 
different  tradesmen  that  are  required,  and  the  amount 
of  labour  that  is  spent  before  these  machines  can  be 
made.  It  gives  a  kind  of  pleasure  in  making  a  contrast 
between  our  loom  of  the  present  day  and  that  of  the 
Hindoos,  which  has  been  explained.  Before  one  of 
these  factories,  with  a  thousand  looms,  can  be  put 
into  operation,  it  will  have  given  employment  to  more 
than  one  thousand  individuals  for  more  than  six 
months,  at  the  rate  of  three  shillings  per  day  for  each 
individual.  The  parties  who  receive  this  employment 
are  coal,  iron,  lead,   and  copper  miners ;  labourers, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  25 

brickmakers,  bricklayers,  plasterers,  slaters,  sawyers, 
joiners,  glaziers,  glassmakers,  nailers,  millwrights, 
engineers,  boilermakers,  machine-makers,  gasfitters, 
tinsmiths,  and  a  whole  host  of  others ;  indeed,  it 
would  be  difficult  to  mention  any  kind  of  employment 
that  does  not  get  part  of  the  money  put  out  on  the 
erection  of  a  factory. 

Before  the  power-loom  was,  hrouffht-iuta.  operation, 
the  weaving  power  of  this  country  was  a  mere  drop 
in  the  bucket  compared  to  what  it  is  at  the  present 
day;  indeed,  it  is  within  the  last  forty  years  that  power- 
loom  weaving  has  been  brought  to  that  extent  that  it 
.could  be  called  a  trade,  and  now  it  is  one  of  the  most 
important  in  the  kingdom.  What  has  brought  the 
power-loom  trade  to  its  present  extent,  must  be  attri- 
buted to  a  number  of  circumstances ;  for  the  power- 
loom  would  have  been  of  little  use,  had  not  the  inven- 
tion of  the  spinning  jenny  taken  place,  which  was 
about  85  years  ago ;  and  neither  the  spinning  nor  the 
weaving  machinery  would  have  arrived  at  their 
present  magnitude,  had  not  the  steam-engine  been 
brought  to  their  aid  ;  while  many  other  improvements 
in  the  other  arts  have  contributed  to  advance  the 
power-loom  trade.  It  may  also  be  stated,  that  had  it 
not  been  for  the  industry  of  the  people,  and  the  secu- 
rity that  capital  has  in  this  country,  the  power-loom 
trade  could  never  have  arrived  at  its  present  greatness. 
For  unless  capital  is  protected  in  such  a  manner  that 


d 


D.  H.  HILL  LIBRARY 

North  Carolina  9tete  College 


26  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

there  is  a  fair  chance  of  it  being  made  profitable,  by 
it  being  invested  in  business,  it  will  not  be  employed 
where  the  chance  does  not  exist ;  and  the  work-people 
should  consider  this  subject  more  than  they  have  done 
in  many  cases,  before  they  make  a  turn  out,  leaving 
the  whole  machinery  standing  idle ;  for  what  is  the 
interest  of  the  employer,  is  also  the  interest  of  the 
employed.  We  have  felt  a  degree  of  diffidence  in 
making  this  statement,  knowing  well  the  opinion  that 
once  existed  among  some  workmen ;  but  when  a  good 
feeling  exists  between  the  employer  and  his  workers, 
both  parties  are  benefited  by  it.  The  reason  is 
obvious  without  explanation. 

The  weaving  of  cotton  goods  being  the  most  exten- 
sive in  this  country,  a  very  good  idea  may  be  formed 
of  the  progress  of  the  power-loom  from  the  quantity 
of  cotton  consumed  at  different  periods. 

The  time  was  when  there  was  only  a  few  bags  of 
cotton  consumed  in  Great  Britain,  but  we  will  not  go 
further  back  than  the  year  1822.  The  quantities  will 
be  given  in  bales,  considering  each  bale  to  average 
440  lbs.,  which  is  about  the  average  weight  at  the 
present  time  ;  although  the  average  weight  was  little 
more  than  the  half  of  this  in  the  year  1822  ;  however 
this  is  taken  into  consideration  in  our  calculations ; 
and  it  appears  that  in  1822,  the  number  of  bales  (at 
an  average  of  440  lbs.)  were  330,564.  The  next 
year  we  take  is  1825,  and  the  increase  over  1822  is 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  27 

48,256  bales,  which  gives  for  that  year  378,820  bales. 
The  year  1826  was  a  very  bad  year  for  the  cotton 
workers,  as  a  great  many  of  them  were  out  of  employ- 
ment, and  consequently  for  that  year  the  consumption 
is  considerably  less  than  the  four  years  previously ; 
but  in  1827  trade  revives,  and  the  consumption 
increases.  As  prices  may  have  had  something  to  do 
with  the  increase  we  will  give  the  extreme  prices  for 
the  year  1825,  1826,  and  1827,  of  the  three  prin- 
cipal kinds  of  cotton,  namely  : — Surat,  Uplands,  and 
New  Orleans,  which  are  as  follows  : — 

Price   of  Surat    Cotton     for   1825,  5|d.  to  16d.  per  lb. 

—  Uplands         —        —  6d.    —  I9|d.   — 

—  New  Orleans—         —  8d.    —  22d.      — 

—  Surat  —     for   1826, 4|d.—    7d.      — 

—  Uplands,         —         —  5|d.  —    8fd.    — 

—  New  Orleans, —         —  5£d. —  lljd.    — 

—  Surat  —     for  1827, 3|d.  —    6|d.    — 

—  Uplands,  —        —  4§d:—    7fd.    — 

—  New  Orleans, —  —  ......  5Jd. —    9|d.   — 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  prices  for  1825  are 
high  and  very  irregular,  and  that  in  1826  and  1827 
the  prices  are  lower  and  more  regular.  The  increase 
of  consumption  in  1827  over  1825  is  80,652  bales, 
the  whole  number  of  bales  consumed  being  459,472 
bales.  In  1829,  the  consumption  is  508,040  bales, 
and  the  prices  are  as  follows  : — 

Price   of  Surat   Cotton  in   1829, 2|d.  to  5|d.  per  lb. 

—  Uplands        —       —        4f  d.  —  7d.         — 

—  New  Orleans —       —        4|d.  —  9d.         — 


28  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

We  now  pass  on  to  1832,  and  find  the  consumption 
to  be  629,928  bales,  which  is  nearly  double  the  quan- 
tity that  was  required  for  the  year  1822.  The  year 
1833,  the  quantity  consumed  is  rather  less;  but  it 
comes  up  again  in  1834.  The  following  are  the 
lowest  prices  for  1822  and  1832  :  — 

Lowest   Price   of    Surat   Cotton    in   1822, 5|d.   per  lb. 

—  —    Uplands  —      —  5fd.       — 

—  —    New  Orleans  —      —         6d.         — 

—  —   Surat  —  in   1832.......  3|d.      — 

—  —   Uplands  —      —  5d,         — 

—  —   New  Orleans  —      —  5^d.       — 

The  price  of  cotton  is  higher  in  the  year  1835,  yet 
the  consumption  is  greater  than  any  year  previous, 
it  being  715,520  bales.  The  following  are  the 
extreme  prices  for  the  year  1835  : — 

Price  of  Surat  Cotton,  for  1835,  Gd.  to       9d.  per  lb. 

—  Uplands         —       —  6fd.  —  13 Jd.     — 

—  New  Orleans  —      —         6|d.  —  14|d.     — 

About  this  period  many  thought  that  cotton  goods 
were  being  produced  in  too  great  quantities,  and  that 
ere  long  there  must  be  a  reaction  ;  but  instead  of  this 
their  production  is  still  more  and  more.  About  ten  years 
after  this  period  we  find  the  consumption  of  cotton, 
instead  of  715,520  bales,  to  be  about  1,664,000  bales 
per  annum,  showing  the  consumption  to  be  more  than 
double  what  it  was  in  1835,  and  it  still  goes  on  increas- 
ing, for  we  find  at  the  present  time,  if  the  mills  were 
all  on  (but  unfortunately  the  greater  portion  are  stopped? 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  29 

by  over-production  and  the  American  War),  that  the 
consumption  would  be  2,596,000  bales  per  year,  nearly 
eight  times  what  it  was  in  1822,  forty  years  since. 

AVhen  the  American  crop  of  cotton  alone  is  seen  to 
be  upwards  of  4,000,000  bales,  independent  of  all  the 
other  places  that  send  us  cotton,  the  quantity  used  in 
Great  Britain,  at  first  sight,  does  not  seem  very  large, 
until  we  calculate  the  quantity  of  cloth  the  2,596,000 
bales  of  cotton  will  make,  then  it  appears  very  different. 

Suppose  the  yarn  spun  to  average  No.  40s;  and  the 
cloth  to  average  1000,  with  10  shots  36  inches  wide, 
and  allowing  20  per  cent,  for  waste  on  the  cotton,  and 
4  per  cent,  on  the  yarn,  the  cloth  woven  from  the 
2,596,000  bales  of  cotton  would  be  8,122,595,554 
yards,  or  about  270  yards  of  cotton  cloth  per  annum 
for  each  individual  in  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  or 
about  ten  yards  for  each  person  in  the  world.  Although 
this  quantity  of  yarn  is  spun  in  Great  Britain,  it  is  not 
to  be  understood  that  it  is  all  made  into  cloth  by  the 
looms  in  this  country,  for  rather  more  than  one-sixth 
part  of  it  is  exported.  But  to  counterbalance  this 
exportation  of  cotton  yarns,  there  are  thousands  of 
looms,  both  hand  and  power,  that  are  employed  weaving 
linen,  woollen,  silk,  and  jute  yarns. 

Ifow  lon<y  the  wpinyino;  t.rndft  i\\  this  country  will 
continue  increasing  as  it  has  done,  is  a  question  no  one 
can  answer,  as  it  is  liable  to  be  affected  by  so  many 
unforeseen  circumstances,  that  it  is  almost  impossible 


30  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS  ON 

to  predict,  with  anything  like  certainty,  what  may  be 
the  condition  of  it  a  few  years  hence  ;  but  supposing 
there  are  no  national  struggles  or  commotions,  and  still 
heavier  taxation,  things  "which  cannot  be  forseen  nor 
calculated  upon,  we  do  not  think  that  there  is  anything 
in  our  condition,  or  in  that  of  any  of  the  manufacturing 
countries  of  the  world,  that  should  lead  us  to  anticipate 
a  reaction  in  the  weaving  trade  for  a  long  time.  The 
natural  capabilities  possessed  by  this  country  for  carry- 
ing on  the  business  (all  things  considered)  are  decidedly 
superior  to  those  of  any  other  people.  And  the  supe- 
riority to  which  we  have  already  arrived  is  perhaps  the 
greatest  advantage  in  our  favour,  and  so  long  as  this 
superiority  can  be  kept  up  to  that  degree  as  will  enable 
this  country  to  make  goods  cheaper  than  any  other,  the 
probability  is,  that  in  other  ten  years  after  this  the 
consumption  of  cotton  will  be  at  least  800,000  bales 
more  per  annum  than  what  it  is  at  present,  which  will 
then  make  the  consumption  to  be  about  3,500,000 
bales.  However,  we  will  state  what  has  been  written 
by  another  bearing  on  this  subject. 

At  the  time  when  our  consumption  of  cotton  was 
about  600,000  bales,  the  following  remarks  regard- 
ing the  cotton  trade  were  made  by  Dr.  Ure.  At 
this  time  there  was  a  duty  on  cotton  of  5-1 6th  of  a 
penny  per  lb.  We  state  this  so  as  the  remarks  will  be 
better  understood. 

"The  superior  skill  and  dexterity  of  British  opera- 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  31 

tives  have  been  assumed  as  constituting  one  of  our 
chief  advantages.  Their  experience  must  no  doubt 
be  more  extended,  in  proportion  as  the  range  and 
variety  of  British  fabrics  are  greater  than  those  of  any 
other  country ;  but  in  such  goods  as  the  foreigners 
carry  into  neutral  markets  the  superiority  of  the 
British  operatives  is  a  point  by  no  means  decided. 
Manufacturers  of  the  United  States,  and  of  some  parts 
of  the  Continent,  claim  for  those  employed  by  them 
at  least  an  equality  within  the  sphere  of  their  own 
productions,  and  to  which  their  competition  with  the 
fabrics  of  Great  Britain  is  necessarily  limited.  The 
late  remarkable  ingenuity  of  the  American  artisans, 
in  their  mechanical  improvements,  gives  no  counten- 
ance to  the  notion  of  their  inferiority, 

"  The  impolicy  of  the  import  tax  on  cotton  wool  is 
so  glaring  as  hardly  to  require  illustration.  A  tax  on 
the  raw  materials  of  such  manufactures  as  are  princi- 
pally consumed  within  the  United  Kingdom,  would 
be  comparatively  harmless ;  but  since  two-thirds  at 
least  of  British  cotton  goods  are  exported,  a  tax  upon 
their  raw  material  operates  as  a  bounty  upon  the 
cotton  manufactures  of  other  nations.  Where  duties 
have  been  imposed  on  importation,  as  in  the  case  of 
sugars,  wines,  spirits,  &c,  a  corresponding  drawback 
on  their  exportation  has  been  always  allowed ;  yet 
cotton,  as  if  undeserving  of  fiscal  justice,  has  been 
ever  since  the  year  1798  persecuted  with  a  series  of 


32  THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 

imposts,  in  twelve  successive  rates,  all  tending  to  turn 
the  balance  in  favour  of  our  foreign  rivals  in  that 
trade.  No  government,  except  our  own,  possessing 
any  pretensions  to  the  title  of  enlightened,  lays  a  tax 
upon  the  import  of  cotton  wool,  whicli  is  not  coun- 
tervailed by  an  equivalent  drawback  on  exportation. 
The  peculiar  pressure  of  the  competition  in  America 
is  upon  those  coarse  yarns  and  heavy  cloths,  for  the 
production  of  whicli  it  possesses  the  advantages  of  an 
indigenous  raw  material,  unencumbered  with  taxation, 
and  procured  at  the  minimum  cost  of  carriage.  The 
spinning  also  of  the  Continent  of  Europe  has  been 
hitherto  directed  principally  to  the  coarse  numbers 
of  yarn,  which  are  worked  up  into  heavy  fabrics,  and 
with  the  effect  of  depriving  this  country  of  almost  all 
European  customers  whom  she  not  long  ago  supplied. 
"The  very  existence  of  this  country  depends  on 
retaining  an  ascendancy  in  the  cotton  manufacture,  as 
the  principal  means  of  enabling  her  to  sustain  the 
enormous  burden  of  taxation  accumulated  by  the  war- 
funding  system.  Were  Great  Britain  as  free  from 
taxes  as  the  States  of  America,  or  the  Continent  of 
Europe,  she  might  surrender  to  them  a  share  of  her 
cotton  trade  without  suifering  any  national  misfortune; 
but  she  has  nothing  to  spare  without  involving  her 
people  in  distress,  and  her  public  credit  in  jeopardy." 


THE 

THEORY  AND  PRACTICE 


%xt  at  ifeirhtg. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GRISTING   YARN. 

This  chapter  will  be  found  to  contain  a  number  of 
calculations  and  observations  that  are  necessary  for 
Manufacturers  and  Managers  in  the  Weaving  Trade. 

In  commencing  it  may  be  remarked,  that  almost 
every  substance  that  can  be  made  to  answer  for  warp 
or  weft  is  now  woven  for  some  purpose  or  other  ;  bur 
as  cotton  yarn  is  the  most  common  material  now  used 
in  this  country,  we  will  begin  with  it. 

To  find  the  Grist  or  fineness  of  Yarn,  it  was  necessary 
to  have  some  rule  or  standard  to  go  by  ;  and  for  cotton 
yarn  it  has  been  adopted  in  Great  Britain  and  other 
countries  where  it  is  bought  and  sold,  to  have  15,120 
yards  in  the  spyndle,  the  yard  being  36  inches  ;  and 
cotton  spinners  in  this  country  all  keep  to  the  same 
measurement  for  the  size  of  the  reel,  it  being  54  inches 


34  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

in  circumference,  and  eighty  turns  of  the  reel  make  one 

skein — this  is  the  first  shift  made  on  the  reel7  and 

seven  of  these  shifts  make  a  number  or  hank.    It  is  from 

the  quantity  of  numbers  contained  in  1  lb.  avoirdupois 

that  the  size  of  the  yarn  is  determined ;  so  that,  when 

the  yarn  is  said  to  be  No.  50's,  there  are  50  numbers 

or  hanks  in  1  lb. ;  when  No.  60's,  there  are  60  hanks  ; 

when  70's,  70  hanks,  and  so  on. 

The  common  way  yarn  is  reeled  is  as  follows  : 

120  yards  1  skein. 
840      "      7     "       1  No.  or  bank. 
15,120      "126     "    18    „    1  spyndle, 

and  put  up  in  10  or  5  lb.  bundles  to  be  sold.     It 

will  easily  be  seen  then,  by  counting  the  No.'s  in  the 

bundle,  whether  the  proper  sizes  of  yarn  are  given  or 

not,  by  multiplying  the  weight  of  the  bundle  by  its 

numbers. 

For  example,  a  10  lb.  bundle  of  36's  should  have 
360  hanks  or  numbers,  because 

36  x  10  =  360. 
A  5  lb.  bundle  of  60's  should  have  300  No.'s  as 
60  x  5  =  300. 

Cotton  yarn  is  also  sold  in  large  quantities  in  cope, 
and  on  beams,  and  also  in  chains.  The  way  to  find 
the  size  of  the  yarn  in  copes,  is  to  take  7  of  them,  and 
reel  1  skein  off  each,  which  will  make  1  number,  and 
weigh  it,  either  on  a  quadrant,  or  small  beam  and 
scale  for  the  purpose,  and  from  this,  the  size  of  the 
yarn  will  be  found. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


YARN   ON    BEAM. 


To  find  the  size  of  yarn  when  on  beam,  take  off  80 
ends  54  inches  long — this  will  make  1  skein ;  but  it 
will  be  more  exact  to  take  560  ends,  54  inches,  and 
this  will  make  1  No.,  then  weigh  it  to  find  the  size. 


YARN   IN   CHAIN. 

To  find  the  size  of  the  yarn  in  a  chain,  take  the  whole 
chain  and  weigh  it,  ascertain  the  number  of  ends  that 
are  in  the  chain,  also  the  length  of  it,  and  the  hanks 
will  be  found  from  the  length  and  number  of  ends;  then 
divide  the  hanks  by  the  lbs.,  and  the  answer  will  be 
the  size  of  the  yarn.  Suppose  a  chain  is  8  lbs.,  and 
has  846  ends,  and  is  284  yards  long :  then  846  *  284 
is  240,264 ;  divide  by  840,  and  the  answer  is  286,  the 
Numbers  in  the  chain :  this  divided  by  8,  the  weight 
of  the  chain  in  lbs.,  is  35|,  being  the  size  of  the  yarn. 

EXAMPLE. 

846  Ends. 
284 


3384 
6768 
1692 

240264 


36  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


840)240264(286-02 

1680      

■ 35f 


7226 
6720 

5064 
5040 


2400 
1680 


720 


840 


It  may  be  remarked  here  that  the  yarn  bought  in 
cope,  chain,  or  beam,  is  in  general  from  3  to  6  per  cent, 
coarser  than  the  size  ordered  ;  this  should  not  be,  but 
still  it  is  the  case.  Some  spinners  are  more  in  the 
habit  of  spinning  coarse  than  others,  but  it  would  be 
better  to  keep  to  the  average  size,  and  charge  a  little 
more  per  lb.  for  the  yarn.  It  is  well-known  that  it  is 
almost  impossible  to  keep  the  proper  size  in  spinning, 
as  there  are  so  many  things  to  contend  with  that  alters 
the  sizes ;  but  suppose  that  60's  is  the  number  wanted, 
it  might  range  from  57's  to  63's,  and  the  average  would 
be  60's  ;  and  to  keep  any  of  the  }7arn  from  being  too 
soft  spun,  a  twist  pinion  for  63's  should  be  put  on,  for 
if  the  twist  was  for  60's,  then  the  yarn  that  sized  63's 
would  be  too  soft.  When  yarn  is  bought  in  bundle, 
the  proper  length  is  given,  and  no  more  than  the  weight 
in  lbs.,  this  is  managed  by  spinning  average  No.'s,  in 
the  following  manner  : — 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  37 

Suppose  a  spinner  is  selling  40's  in  bundle  ;  as  ob- 
served before;  the  proper  length  must  be  in  every 
bundle,  as  the  buyer  will  not  pay  for  more  than  10 
lbs.,  and  must  have  both  the  weight  and  the  length. 
When  the  party  who  has  the  charge  of  the  sizes,  sees 
only  38's,  then  he  has  to  get  as  much  spun  of  No.  42's, 
and  mix  the  two  sizes  in  equal  quantities  to  make  them 
average  40's.  If  this  was  attended  to  by  the  spinners, 
the  weavers  would  have  less  difficulty  in  keeping  the 
cloth  to  the  proper  weight,  and  the  calculations  for  it 
would  be  more  correct. 

The  same  principle  of  calculations  apply  to  all  the 
other  kinds  of  yarn  ;  the  main  thing  to  know  is,  the 
number  of  yards  contained  in  a  given  weight,  and  how 
the  particular  kind  of  yarn  is  sized. 


LINEN  YARN. 

This  yarn  is  spun  from  flax,  and  should  be  reeled 
(according  to  an  act  of  Parliament)  on  a  reel  90  inches 
in  circumference  1 — 20  turns  of  the  reel  will  make 
1  cut,  and  48  cuts  1  spyndle.  As  90  inches  is  2J 
yards,  multiply  the  120  by  2J,  and  the  product  by  48, 
which  will  give  the  yards  in  a  spindle. 


38  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

EXAMPLE. 

120  x  2| 
21 

^2 


240 
60 


300  x  48 
48 


2400 
1200 

14400  yards  in  a  spyndle. 

But  the  spyndle  is  divided  into  other  parts  besides 
the  above,  as  will  be  seen  from  the  following  table  : — 

Cut.      Heer.  Hesp.  Spyndle. 

10  0         0  300  yards. 

2  1  0  0  600  " 
24  12  10  7200  " 
48    24     2    1   14400  " 


or       300  yards 
600     " 

Cut. 
1 
2 

Heer. 
0 

1 

Hesp.  Spyndle. 
0         0 
0         0 

7200     " 

24 

12 

1         0 

14400     " 

48 

24 

2         1 

The  fineness  of  linen  yarn  should  be  found  from  the 
number  of  cuts  in  the  lb.  avoirdupois.  If  there  be  25 
cuts  in  1  lb.,  that  is  No.  25's  ;  if  50  cuts,  No.  50's,  and 
so  on  for  every  cut  more  in  the  lb.;  one  number  finer ; 
but  the  fineness  is  expressed  in  different  places  by  dif- 
ferent terms  ;  however,  it  would  be  better  to  have  one 
common  scale,  and  the  number  of  cuts  in  1  lb.  of  16  oz. 
is  considered  the  best ;  and  it  will  also  be  observed  that 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  39 

No.  48  linen  yarn  is  equal  in  weight  to  No.  18  cotton, 
because,  there  is  48  cuts  of  No.  48's  in  1  lb.  of  linen 
yarn,  and  18  hanks  in  1  lb.  of  No.  18  cotton  yarn,  and 
1  spyndle  in  both  :  the  cotton  spyndle  has  15,120  yards, 
and  the  linen  has  14,400,  making  a  difference  of  720 
yards  ;  but  as  linen  yarn  has  less  elasticity  than  cotton, 
1  spyndle  of  linen  will  make  as  many  inches  of  cloth  as 
1  spyndle  of  cotton  yarn,  unless  it  be  woven  tighter 
than  what  is  commonly  the  case  in  weaving  cotton. 


WOOL   YARN. 

Wool  yarn  is  spun  from  the  short  fibres  of  the  fleece 
that  is  taken  from  the  animal,  and  Worsted  yarn  from 
the  long  staple.  They  are  reeled  on  different  sizes  of 
reels;  the  Wool  is  in  general  reeled  on  the  54  inch  reel, 
and  has  18  hanks  to  the  spyndle,  but  is  one-third 
heavier  than  cotton  yarn  : — For  example,  1  lb.  of  18's 
wool  yarn  has  only  12  hanks,  840  yards  long  ;  and 
1  lb.  18's  cotton  has  18  hanks. 

Worsted  yarn  is  sometimes  reeled  on  the  short  reel, 
and  sometimes  on  the  long  one,  and  is  sold  by  the  gross, 
a  gross  being  144  hanks.. 


THE  REED. 

The  Reed  is  a  very  important  article  in  weaving,  it 
divides  the  warp  threads,  and  may  also  determine  the 


40  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

fineness  of  the  cloth,  but  a  coarse  web  may  be  made  in 
a  fine  reed,  and  a  fine  web  may  be  made  in  a  coarse 
reed,  consequently,  it  is  really  the  number  of  warp 
threads  contained  in  a  given  space,  that  determines  the 
fineness  of  the  cloth  or  web.  For  example,  a  600  web 
can  be  made  in  a  1200  reed,  by  putting  only  1  thread 
in  the  split ;  and  a  2400  can  be  made  in  the  same  reed, 
by  putting  4  threads  in  the  split ;  or  an  18°°,  by 
putting  3  in  the  split.  However,  the  common  practice 
is  to  put  2  threads  in  the  split,  and  when  speaking 
about  the  fineness  of  a  web,  it  is  always  understood 
that  2  threads  are  in  the  split ;  but  in  other  localities 
there  are  different  scales  or  rules  by  which  they  name 
the  fineness  of  the  web. 

In  Scotland,  the  reeds  are  almost  all  made  on  the  37 
inch  scale,  which  usually  was  called  the  Scotch  Ell. 
What  is  meant  by  the  37  inch  scale  is,  the  number  of 
splits  contained  in  37  inches;  if  there  are  300  splits 
contained  in  37  inches,  that  reed  is  called  a  three  hun- 
dred (marked  300)  ;  if  600,  it  is  called  600 ;  or  if  1  200 
are  in  the  37  inches,  it  is  called  a  120rt,  and  so  on  ;  for 
every  100  splits  more,  it  is  1  set  finer.  By  the  com- 
mon web  glass  used  in  Scotland,  the  fineness  of  the 
reed  may  be  ascertained  by  counting  the  number  of  splits 
that  are  seen  through  the  aperture  in  it,  when  placed 
upon  the  reed  :  if  5  splits  are  seen,  it  is  a  10°° ;  if  6 
splits,  a  1200,andso  on;  the  measurement  of  the  aperture 
is  contained  200  times  in  37  inches,  so  by  multiplying 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  41 

the  number  of  splits  seen  through  the  glass,  by  200, 
the  fineness  of  the  reed  will  be  found. 

EXAMPLE. 

7  splits  multiplied  by  200  is  a  1400  reed.  But 
when  the  glass  is  placed  upon  cloth,  and  7  threads  of 
the  warp  are  seen,  it  is  a  700,  or  if  12  threads  are  seen, 
it  is  a  1200,  and  so  on,  for  every  thread  more,  100  finer. 
In  England,  the  splits  are  called  dents,  and  many  of 
the  reeds  are  rated  by  the  number  of  splits  contained 
in  1  inch,  which  is  more  simple  than  the  Scotch  scale 
for  calculating  warps,  and  their  glasses  are  made  with 
two  spaces,  of  half,  and  quarter  of  an  inch.  If  the 
half-inch  glass  is  used,  and  25  threads  are  seen,  it  is 
called  a  50,  or  if  36  threads  are  seen  it  is  called  a  72, 
and  so  on.  In  some  places  the  fineness  of  the  web  is 
named  by  porters,  as  a  25  porter,  a  30  porter,  and  so 
on;  the  meaning  of  this  is,  that  20  splits  or  40  threads 
are  called  a  porter  (and  some  keep  to  this  yet),  so  that 
a  25  porter  is  equal  to  a  500,  because 

25  x  40  =  1000  ends. 
40 


Threads  in  a  Splits  2)1000 


500  Web. 


A  30  porter  is  equal  to  a  600,  and  every  5  porters 
100  finer  on  the  37  inch  scale.  It  is  hoped  that  enough 
has  been  said  to  make  the  principle  understood,  how  the 
fineness  of  a  web  is  to  be  found,  as  it  would  be  too 


42  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

tedious  to  give  all  the  rules  used  in  the  different  locali- 
ties where  weaving  is  carried  on  ;  it  would  however  be 
better,  if  one  scale  for  the  reed  was  adopted  by  all  the 
Manufacturers  throughout  the  country,  and  as  an  inch 
is  a  measurement  of  very  general  use,  it  might  be  made 
the  standard,  and  the  inch  scale  would  answer  for  all 
the  variety  likely  to  be  required.  The  old  reeds  could 
be  wrought  out  in  course  of  time,  without  any  extra 
expense  to  the  Manufacturer.  If  all  new  reeds  required 
were  made  on  the  1  inch  scale,  it  would  be  no  incon- 
venience to  the  trade  in  general;  forreeds  couldbe  made 
within  a  very  small  fraction  on  the  1  inch  scale  to 
the  other  scales  now  in  use.  Take  a  1200  Jaconet  for 
example,  it  measures  33  inches  of  cloth,  and  has  in  it 
2264  threads  just  now,  and  it  fills  34x90  inches  in  the 
reed;  if  2264  is  divided  by  34190,  it  will  give  the  num- 
ber of  threads  in  1  inch,  which  is  nearly  65:  the  dif- 
ference is  so  small  between  a  1200  and  a  65,  that  no 
Merchant  would  complain  of  the  alteration. 

As  most  other  trades  are  endeavouring  to  get  a  com- 
mon measure  established  for  the  different  articles  they 
make,  the  weaving  trade,  which  is  of  great  importance, 
should  have  one  common  measure  also.  Some  people 
may  object  to  this,  and  think  it  against  their  interest, 
but  what  is  to  be  a  benefit  for  the  country  at  large,  is 
in  general  good  for  every  individual,  when  taken  in 
a  proper  view ;  this  hint  is  merely  made  for  others  to 
consider,  as  it  does  not  answer  to  discuss  it  here. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  43 

CALCULATION  OF  WARPS. 

Having  explained  the  principle  of  gristing  yarn,  and 
how  to  find  its  Nos.,  also  the  measure  for  the  reed,  it 
may  now  be  shown  how  to  calculate  the  warp  of  a  web. 

The  first  thing  to  be  ascertained  is,  the  number  of 
ends,  or  runners,  that  will  be  required  to  make  the 
proper  breadth  for  the  cloth  wanted.  The  old  method 
of  calculation  for  warps,  was  to  do  it  by  ells,  splits, 
porters,  and  spyndles,  and  that  may  have  been  the  best 
at  one  time ;  but  as  all  cloth  is  now  sold  by  the  yard, 
and  as  a  warp  is  just  so  many  threads,  so  many  yards 
long,  it  has  been  thought  better  just  to  keep  by  the 
threads,  yards,  and  hanks,  this  plan  being  more  simple. 

When  the  number  of  threads  are  found,  it  is  a  simple 
matter  to  get  the  porters  or  spyndles,  if  they  are  re- 
quired.— For  porters,  divide  the  number  of  ends  in  the 
web  by  40,  and  for  spyndles,  divide  the  hanks  in  the 
web  by  18. 

To  find  the  number  of  ends  in  a  web,  ascertain  the 
number  of  ends  in  an  inch,  multiply  the  number  of  ends 
in  1  inch  by  the  given  quantity  of  inches  that  are  to  be 
in  the  breadth  of  the  web,  and  the  answer  is  the  num- 
ber of  ends  required.  EXAMPLE. 
Breadth  of  web  34  inches. 
Threads  in  1  inch    54 


136 
170 


1836  ends  in  the  web. 


44  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

In  the  Scotch  scale  of  reeds  there  is  always  a  frac- 
tion in  every  breadth,  except  37,  74,  and  111  inches; 
but  the  general  way  to  find  the  number  of  ends  is  by 
simple  proportion,  taking  37  for  the  first  term,  the 
number  of  ends  in  37  inches  of  the  given  set  for  the 
second  term,  and  inches  required  in  the  breadth  of  the 
web  for  the  third. 

*  EXAMPLE. 

Say  a  1200  reed,  33  inches  wide.  If  37  inches  give 
2400  ends,  what  will  33  inches  give? — 

37  :         2400          :  :         33 

33 


7200 
7200 


37)79200(2140  Ends  for  33  inches. 
74 


52 
37 

150 
148 


20 
37 


*  Any  one  who  wishes  to  save  time  in  calculating  for  the  Ends  in  a 
Web,  should  procure  one  of  the  Tables  that  are  published,  showing  the 
number  of  Ends  or  Splits  in  any  given  number  of  inches.  These  Tables 
may  be  had  from  the  Publisher  of  this  Work. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  45 

WARP  IN  A  WEB. 

To  find  the  quantity  of  Warp  that  is  required  for  a 
Web,  say  265  yards  long,  with  2400  ends,  multiply 
the  ends  by  the  yards,  and  divide  them  by  840  for  the 
hanks. 

EXAMPLE. 

2400  Ends. 
265  Yards. 


12000 
14400 
4800 


840)636000(757  Hanks  1  Skein. 
5880 


4800 
4200 

6000 
5880 


120 


The  above  example  gives  757  hanks,  1  skein,  and 
suppose  the  warp  to  be  No.  50's,  divide  the  757}  by 
50  for  lbs. 


50s)757K15"2i  ounce  fol1- 
50 

257 
250 


46  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

If  the  spyndles  are  required  to  be  known,  divide  the 
757J  by  18,  and  the  answer  is  the  spyndles. 

EXAMPLE. 

18)757|(42  Sp.  1  Hk.  1  Sk. 

72 


37 
36 


1 

7 

7)8(1  Hank. 

7 


1  Skein. 

In  calculating  warps,  it  has  been  a  common  rule  to 
add  5  per  cent,  for  waste  and  shrinking,  but  there  can 
be  no  fixed  standard  for  it;  the  manager  or  manufac- 
turer must  find  this  out  by  practice,  on  the  different 
fabrics  they  make,  as  it  entirely  depends  on  the  kind 
of  cloth,  and  quality  of  the  stuff  that  the  web  is  made 
of.  Therefore,  all  the  examples  given  in  this  work  are 
made  outnett  (except  where  stated),  with  the  percent- 
age added,  that  has  been  found  in  practice  to  be  correct, 
and  even  in  the  examples  given  it  will  not  be  always 
the  same,  as  a  great  deal  depends  on  the  quality  of  the 
yarn. 

A  short  method  to  find  the  hanks  in  the  warp  of  a 
web: — 

Always  take  80  yards  for  the  length,  and  divide 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  47 

the  number  of  ends  or  runners  that  is  required  to  make 
the  warp  by  10,  and  the  answer  is  the  number  of  hanks, 
with  an  allowance  of  5  per  cent :  and  as  80  is  a  number 
very  easily  divided,  it  can  be  reduced,  or  added  to,  with 
very  little  trouble  in  calculation.  If  the  manufacturer 
is  wishing  to  rate  his  goods  by  5,  10,  30,  or  40  yards, 
instead  of  80,  then  for 

5  take  a  Jg 
10  „  i 
20  „  I 
40     „        \ 

When  the  number  of  threads  has  been  found  that 
will  make  the  warp  of  a  web,  for  example,  say,  1920 
ends. 

EXAMPLE. 

To  divide  by  10,  throw  off  the  figure  to  the  right 
hand,  and  the  remainder  is  the  answer. 
1920  Ends  in  the  web,  that  is 

192  Hanks  for  80  Yards. 
96         „  40      „ 

48         „  20      „ 

24         ..  10      „ 

12         „  5      „ 

In  the  example  given  (page  45),  the  warp  has  2400 
ends,  and  is  265  yards  long  :  these  numbers  are  given 
to  the  warper  with  the  number  of  pieces  that  are  to  be 
in  the  web  :  and  suppose  it  is  a  plain  white  web,  the 


48  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

warper  has  to  know  how  many  numbers  are  on  each 
bobbin,  and  divide  the  hanks  in  the  web  by  the  hanks 
on  the  bobbin,  and  the  answer  is  the  number  of  bob- 
bins that  will  be  required  for  the  web. 


EXAMPLE. 
Say  8  Numbers  on  each  bobbin,  then  8  in  757- 

8)757(94  keeping  out  the  fraction. 

72 


37 

32 


This  shows  that  95  bobbins  will  be  required  to  make 
the  warp  of  the  web.  It  is  generally  left  to  the  warper's 
own  judgment  how  to  arrange  the  bobbins  in  the  bank. 
The  process  is  explained  under  warping. 

To  find  the  quantity  of  cloth  that  a  given  quantity 
of  yarn  will  make,  find  the  number  of  hanks  in  the 
given  quantity  of  yarn,  which  will  be  found  from  a  rule 
already  stated  ;  then  fix  upon  the  number  of  ends  that 
will  make  the  breadth  of  the  cloth  wanted. 

Suppose  220  hanks  is  the  quantity  of  yarn,  and  the 
number  of  ends  to  make  the  breadth  of  the  cloth  to  be 
1800,  multiply  by  840,  and  divide  by  1800,  and  the 
answer  is  the  length  of  the  web. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  49 

EXAMPLE. 

220  Hanks. 
840 

8800 
1760 

1800)184800(102f 
1800 


4800 
3600 


1200     2 


1800     3 

And  suppose  that  5  per  cent,  is  the  proper  allowance 
for  waste,  &c,  then  the  quantity  of  cloth  would  be 
97  yards. 

The  following  are  a  few  different  fabrics  with  the 
kind  and  quantity  of  yarn  that  was  required  to  make 
them  ;  and  it  will  be  seen  from  each,  the  shrinkage 
both  in  length  and  breadth,  which  may  be  of  some 
advantage  in  rateing  fabrics  of  a  similar  nature  : — 

A  1000  33  inch  Shirting,  11  shots,  No.  18's  warp, 
20's  weft,  required  1876  runners,  which  is  35*07  inches 
in  the  reed ;  and  to  make  60  yards  of  cloth,  it  required 
64  yards  of  yarn,  which  is  nearly  7  per  cent,  for  shrink- 
age in  length,  and  about  6  per  cent,  for  the  breadth. 

A  34  inch  1000  11  shots  AVindow  Holland,  No.  18's 
warp,  and  No.  18's  weft,  required  202  i  runners,  which 
gives  in  the  reed,   37*44,  or  nearly  37 J  inches,  this 

D 


50  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

web  also  required  64  yards  of  yarn  to  make  60  yards 
of  cloth,  but  in  the  finishing,  it  gained  about  3  yards. 

A  54  inch  1000 11  shots  Window  Holland,  18's  warp, 
18's  weft,  required  3168  ends,  the  breadth  in  the  reed 
was  58*60,  or  nearly  58f  inches,  and  64  yards  of  yarn 
for  60  yards  of  cloth. 

A  900  11^  shots  Cross-over,  24's  warp,  12's  white 
weft,  and  No.  14's  blue  weft,  required  1848  ends, 
and  65  yards  of  yarn  to  make  60  yards  of  cloth. 

A  38  inch  900  11^  shots  Cross-over,  required  1904 
ends.  The  white  weft  No.  12's,  and  the  blue  No.  14's, 
required  65  yards  of  yarn  to  give  60  yards  of  Cloth. 

A  33  inch  1200  11  shots  Jaconet,  with  60's  warp 
and  80's  weft,  required  2264  ends,  which  fills  34to 
inches  in  the  reed;  and  to  make  25  yards  of  cloth,  it 
required  26  yards  of  yarn 


CALCULATION  OF  WEFTS. 

To  find  the  quantity  of  weft  for  a  given  piece  of 
Cloth,  first  find  the  quantity  of  shots  in  one  yard,  and 
multiply  them  by  the  number  of  yards  in  the  given 
piece  of  cloth,  and  the  product  by  the  breadth  of  the 
wel)  in  inches;  then  divide  by  36  for  yards,  and  the 
product  by  840  for  hanks. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  51 

EXAMPLE. 

25  yards,  with  11  shots  on  the  glass,  35  inches  wide. 
As  there  is  200  shots  on  the  yard  for  every  shot  seen  in 
the  glass,  a  web  with  11  shots  will  have  2200  shots 
on  the  yard ;  so  multiply  2200  shots  by  25,  for  the 
quantity  in  25  yards,  and  by  35  for  inches,  and  divide 
by  36  for  yards, 

2200  x  25 
25 


11000 
4400 

55000 
35 

275000 
165000 

36)1925000(534721  Yards. 
180 


125 

108 

170 
144 

260 
252 


80 

72 

8       2 


36       9 


52  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

840)53472(63* *  or  about  |. 
5040 


3072 
2520 


552     23 

= —  or  about  \ 


840     35 

There  are  shorter  methods,  however,  than  the  one 
given,  for  finding  the  quantity  of  weft  for  a  piece  of 
cloth,  but  the  preceding  one  shows  the  principle  clearer 
than  any  other.  The  quantity  of  weft  may  be  got 
from  the  quantity  of  warp  that  is  in  the  web  or  piece 
of  cloth,  in  the  following  manner  : — 

Suppose  a  1200  33  inch  Jaconet,  it  will  be  seen  that 
there  is  2264  ends,  and  from  the  25  yards  of  cloth, 
there  is  70*07  hanks  ;  if  12  gives  70  (keeping  out  the 
fraction),  what  will  11  give  ? — f2  less,  or  in  proportion 
to  whatever  the  shots  may  be. 

EXA3IPLE. 

12    :   70    ::   11 
11 

] 2)770 


In  proportion  64^ 


always  taking  the  hanks  found  in  the  warp  of  the  welt 
for  the  second  term,  and  the  sit  of  the  reed  for  the  first, 
or  divisor  ;  or  in  other  words,  multiply  the  hanks  by 
shots,  and  divide  by  the  sit  of  the  reed,  thus 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  53 


70 
11 


12)770 


The  foregoing  is  sufficiently  correct  for  any  prac- 
tical purpose. 

Another  mode  of  finding  the  quantity  of  weft  that 
is  required — make  50  yards  the  standard,  or  fixed 
number  of  yards  to  calculate  by,  multiply  the  breadth 
of  the  web  in  inches  by  the  shots  on  the  glass,  and 
the  product  by  33,  and  the  answer  will  be  the  num- 
ber of  hanks,  after  taking  off  the  two  figures  at  the 
right  hand. 

Suppose  the  Web  is  35  inches  broad,  and  11  shots 
to  be  on  the  glass ;  then  35  x  11  =  385  x  33  =  127-05. 

35  Inch. 
11  Shots. 


385 
33 

1155 
1155 

127.05=127  Hanks  of  Weft. 

If  the  foregoing  length  do  not  suit,  it  will  be  an 
easy  matter  to  find  a  number  to  multiply  by  for  any 
other  length  that  the  Manufacturer  or  Manager  wishes 
to  rate  by. 


54  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


CHAPTER  n. 

WEAVING. 

Weaving  is  the  making  of  cloth  from  yarn  or  threads; 
this  is  the  most  simple  explanation  of  the  word.  Like 
all  other  arts  that  are  carried  on  to  any  extent,  the 
division  of  labour  is  found  to  be  advantageous  in 
weaving  also.  The  first  process  is  winding,  and  it  may 
be  mentioned  here,  that  the  ancient  mode  of  winding, 
warping,  and  weaving,  was  as  follows  : — winding  they 
had  none,  as  they  spun  the  yarn  on  a  spool  or  bobbin  or 
into  balls  ;  and  when  a  web  was  to  be  made,  only  one 
bobbin  was  taken  at  a  time.  The  whole  warping  and 
weaving  apparatus  that  was  required  was  two  sticks, 
like  walking  canes,  a  little  longer  than  the  breadth  of 
the  intended  piece  of  cloth  :  these  sticks  were  placed 
in  the  ground  at  two  or  three  yards  apart,  the  length 
of  the  web ;  then  taking  the  bobbin  in  hand,  the  per- 
son ran  round  the  two  sticks,  making  the  warp  of 
the  web.  After  the  proper  quantity  of  yarn  was  fixed 
on  the  two  sticks,  the  web  was  made,  and  the  weft 
put  in,  much  in  the  same  manner  as  darning  a  hole 
in  a  stocking,  so  that  the  primitive  weaver  required 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  55 

neither  heddles,  treadles,  reeds,  nor  shuttles.  But  now 
in  our  days,  winding  machines,  warping  machines, 
dressing  machines,  twisting  frames,  and  weaving 
machinery,  are  all  required  to  bring  out  the  cloth  at 
a  cheap  rate.  The  yarn  as  it  comes  from  the  spinning 
factories,  is  either  in  cope  or  hank,  except  when  in 
some  instances  the  spinners  have  both  winding  and 
warping,  and  sell  their  yarn  warped  on  beams,  ready 
to  be  put  into  the  dressing  machine  ;  but  when  it  is 
silk,  worsted,  or  linen,  it  is  generally  got  in  hank. 
Then  the  power-loom  weaver  requires  winding  and 
warping  machines,  which  will  now  be  explained. 


WINDING. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  Winding  Machines,  but 
they  are  all  made  to  perform  the  same  thing,  although 
some  do  it  better  than  others.  The  best  winding 
machines  for  winding  water  twist  yarn,  or  the  yarn 
from  small  bobbins  on  to  larger  ones,  are  those  that 
have  the  following  improvements  applied  to  them  :  the 
small  bobbins  as  they  come  from  the  throstle  frames  to 
the  winder  are  full  of  yarn  (the  yarn  being  spun  on 
them).  The  small  bobbins  are  put  on  a  verticle  spindle, 
running  in  a  step  and  collar,  tapered  like  a  cone.  When 
the  throstle  bobbin  is  put  on,  the  bobbin  being  on  a 
tapered  part  of  the  spindle,  its  own  weight  is  sufficient 


56  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

to  keep  it  tight  on  the  spindle,  that  when  the  yarn  is 
winding,  the  small  spindle  turns  with  the  bobbin. 

This  is  a  great  improvement  over  the  old  mode,  when 
the  throstle  bobbins  had  to  run  on  a  rod  of  iron  or 
wood,  causing  the  bushes  in  the  bobbin  to  be  more 
worn  in  the  winding  than  they  were  in  the  spinning ; 
and  those  who  are  acquainted  with  the  throstle  spin- 
ning,  will  know  the  bad  effect  that  this  produces. 
Another  improvement  is  a  thin  plate  of  iron  put  along 
the  machine  with  small  slits  in  it,  one  for  each  thread, 
and  the  yarn,  when  in  the  process  of  winding,  passing 
through  this  slit,  it  takes  off  all  the  loose  pieces  of 
cotton  seed  or  what  is  called  gins,  or  any  other  loose 
substance  that  may  be  sticking  to  the  yarn.       It  also 
serves  to  catch  bad  piecings,  when  the  winder  ought  to 
take  them  off  and  knot  the  ends  anew.   After  this,  the 
thread  passes  through  a  brush,  or  over  a  woollen  cloth, 
put  on  the  machine  in  order  to  keep  the  yarn  clean.   In 
many  of  the  machines  yet  in  use,  there  is  just  one  rod 
of  iron  for  the  ends  to  run  under  for  building  or  guid- 
ing  the  yarn  on  to  the  large  bobbins,  but  it  is  better  to 
have  a  small  piece  of  wire  for  each  thread  or  spindle, 
with  the  one  end  of  it  screwed,  so  as  it  can  be  set  up  or 
down  when  required,  and  this  will  save  all  the  washers 
or  pieces  of  leather  or  cloth  that  is  put  underneath  the 
bobbins  to  make  them  build  properly.    But  even  with 
all  these  improvements,  if  the  winder  is  not  careful, 
bad  piecing  and  lumps  on  the  yarn  will  be  passed. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  57 

The  winding  of  cope  (or  mule)  yarn  is  done  in  the 
same  kind  of  machine,  with  this  exception,  that  the  copes 
are  put  on  to  skewers,  and  winded  from  the  cope  stand- 
ing upright.  But  if  the  cope  does  not  run  till  it  is 
finished,  which  frequently  happens,  the  skewer  is  put  in 
a  horizontal  position  and  allowed  to  run  free  in  centres, 
and  at  the  same  time  steady:  this  is  accomplished  by 
having  the  centres  made  moveable,  and  held  up  to  the 
end  of  the  skewer  with  a  small  spring.  In  winding  warp 
from  the  hank,  swifts  or  whisks  are  used,  and  as  it  is 
more  difficult  to  do,  the  winder  is  not  able  to  keep  so 
many  spindles  employed  as  with  the  former.  Sometimes 
a  different  kind  of  machine  is  used  for  this  kind  of 
winding,  as  the  hank  yarn  takes  up  more  room  than 
the  cope  or  bobbin.  This  machine  has  no  cylinder  nor 
spindles,  and  of  course  requires  no  banding  for  driving 
the  spindles.  It  has  one  shaft  the  whole  length  of  the 
frame,  with  small  drums  on  it,  one  for  each  bobbin. 
The  drums  are  made  to  fit  the  size  of  the  bobbin  between 
its  ends.  This  machine  has  the  advantage  over  the 
spindle  kind,  as  the  yarn  always  runs  at  the  same  speed; 
whereas,  in  the  spindle  machine,  the  speed  of  the  yarn 
increases  as  the  bobbin  fills. 

The  next  machine  we  will  notice  is  for  winding  weft, 
or  what  is  called  a  Pirn  Winding  Machine;  but  to  describe 
all  the  different  kinds  that  have  been  made  during  the 
last  thirty  years,  would  take  up  too  much  time.  The 
best  that  have  yet  been  made  are  those  that  have  the 


58  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

mechanism  or  contrivance  for  accomplishing  the  following 
things: — A  separate  building  apparatus  for  each  spindle; 
also  one  to  stop  the  spindle  when  the  thread  breaks ; 
also  the  plan  to  prevent  doubles  (that  is,  two  ends 
going  on  the  pirn  at  the  same  time),  and  the  mechanism 
to  make  the  yarn  run  at  the  same  speed  at  the  thick 
part  of  the  pirn  as  at  the  small.  When  the  machine 
wants  this  apparatus,  the  quantity  winded  is  much 
smaller  than  with  it.  Also  the  apparatus  for  stopping 
the  spindle  when  the  pirn  has  received  its  proper  quan- 
tity of  weft. — A  machine  made  with  all  these  appliances 
will  make  a  pirn  much  superior  to  the  pirns  wound  by 
the  hand. 


WARPING. 

Having  explained  winding  and  the  winding  machine, 
the  next  process  in  the  art  of  weaving  is  warping,  and 
it  is  done  both  by  hand  and  power. 

Warping  by  hand  requires  a  person  with  some  know- 
ledge of  arithmetic,  where  complicated  patterns  are  to  be 
made  in  the  warp,  but  this  is  treated  on  in  another  place. 
The  common  warping  mills  are  constructed  of  different 
circumferences  and  heights,  but  those  most  in  use  are 
the  five-ell  mills;  it  is  a  reel  with  3  rows  of  arms,  and 
20  arms  in  each  row:  on  the  end  of  the  arms  are  fixed  20 
spokes,  and  these  spokes  are  divided  into  20  equal  parts 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  59 

11 £  inches,  which  is  J  of  an  ell  to  each;  so  20  x  11 J  =  22o 
inches  -f-  5,  is  equal  to  5  ells.  The  arms  are  mortised 
into  three  centres,  and  these  centres  are  put  on  a  piece 
of  wood  with  iron  pivots  at  each  end  for  the  mill  to  run 
upon:  the  mill  is  placed  perpendicular,  and  the  web  is 
warped  on  to  it  from  the  bobbins  in  the  bank  in  a  spiral 
form.  The  length  of  the  web  is  regulated  by  the  num- 
ber of  turns  the  warper  gives  the  mill  before  reversing 
its  motion,  and  the  breadth  of  the  web  is  according  to 
the  quantity  of  bobbins  in  the  bank,  and  the  number  of 
bouts  the  warper  gives  the  mill  After  the  proper  quan- 
tity of  yarn  is  on  the  mill  to  form  the  web,  it  is  taken 
off  by  the  warper  in  links  and  put  up  into  a  chain ;  but 
before  taking  it  off,  a  lease  must  be  taken  with  the  heck 
for  the  drawer  or  twister's  guidance. 

Warping  by  power  is  far  more  simple  than  by  hand, 
and  is  done  cheaper.  In  general,  the  fourth  part  of  the 
web  is  warped  at  once,  by  putting  into  the  bank  a  suf- 
ficient number  of  bobbins  to  make  up  the  fourth  part, 
and  putting  all  the  ends  through  two  reeds,  with  one 
thread  in  the  split,  the  reeds  being  of  the  proper  sit  to 
keep  the  warp  on  the  beam  the  same  breadth  as  the 
intended  web;  the  reed  nearest  the  bank  is  made  in  the 
common  way,  but  the  other  which  is  to  conduct  the  yarn 
on  to  the  beam,  has  every  alternate  split  filled  with 
solder,  about  an  inch  from  its  rim,  for  the  purpose  of 
taking  the  lease. 

There  are  many  different  kinds  of  warping  machines 


60  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

in  use — the  make  most  approved  of  is  what  is  called 
the  Cylinder  Warping  Machine,  with  its  latest  improve- 
ments, which  are  explained  in  another  place,  our  object 
here  being  to  show  how  the  warping  is  done  in  these 
Machines. 

Suppose  a  1200  with  1160  splits  or  2320  ends,  is  to 
be  warped,  then  the  fourth  of  2320  is  580  bobbins, 
which  will  require  to  be  put  into  the  bank,  each  space 
in  the  bank  holding  20  bobbins,  leaving  29  spaces  to 
be  filled  up  to  make  the  number  580,  or  14J  spaces  on 
each  side  of  the  bank.  Care  should  always  be  taken  to 
have  an  equal  quantity  on  each  side  of  the  bank,  so  that 
there  may  be  an  equal  quantity  of  yarn  on  each  side  of 
the  beam,  from  its  centre,  otherwise  the  yarn  will  be 
badly  warped.  After  all  the  bobbins  are  in  the  bank, 
and  the  yarn  taken  through  the  two  reeds,  a  rod  of 
wood  is  cut  the  exact  length  of  the  space  of  the  reed 
which  is  filled  with  the  yarn,  and  the  cylinder  is  made 
up  to  the  same  length  as  the  rod,  then  the  beam  is 
flanged  to  answer  the  cylinder ;  when  this  is  done,  and 
the  measuring  apparatus  set  at  its  proper  place,  the 
Warping  commences.  After  a  little  yarn  is  on  the 
beam,  it  is  common  to  hang  a  weight  at  each  end  of  it, 
so  as  to  make  the  yarn  build  harder  on  the  beam,  but 
it  will  be  obvious,  that  unless  the  beam  be  of  equal 
weight  at  both  ends,  it  will  have  what  is  called  a  slack 
side,  which  is  very  annoying  to  the  dresser,  and  makes 
the  yarn  after  it  is  dressed,  break  more  when  it  is  being 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  61 

woven  in  the  loom.  The  machine,  and  all  the  other 
things  being  adjusted,  the  warper's  duty  is  to  watch 
when  any  of  the  threads  break,  stop  the  machine,  and 
take  the  ends  in  (although  some  machines  have  an  ap- 
paratus that  when  a  thread  is  broken  it  stops  itself.) 
With  the  old  Warping  Machines,  a  long  practice  was 
required  before  the  worker  was  able  to  stop  it  properly, 
as  they  had  no  fly-wheels  ;  but  with  the  new  machines, 
nothing  more  is  required  than  to  shift  the  belt  from  the 
fast  pulley  to  the  loose  one,  as  the  fly-wheel  does  the 
rest,  The  use  of  the  fly-wheel  on  a  Warping  Machine 
is  to  allow  the  bobbins  to  stop  gradually,  for  if  the 
machine  was  stopped  instantly,  they  would  over-run, 
and  break  the  threads.  There  is  also  a  small  roller, 
made  of  wood,  used  for  this  purpose,  which  floats  upon 
the  yarn,  and  if  the  beam  is  instantly  stopped,  the 
weight  of  the  roller  keeps  the  yarn  from  being  slack, 
by  it  descending  a  little  towards  the  floor. 

Suppose  the  length  that  is  wanted  is  6000  yards,  the 
warper  must  watch  when  that  quantity  is  indicated  on 
the  measuring  apparatus,  and  take  out  the  full  beam, 
and  put  in  an  empty  one,  then  go  on  as  before,  till  he 
has  four  beams  filled,  which  makes  the  set  for  the  web. 


TO  WARP  STRIPPED  WORK. 

If  the  pattern  is  to  be  2  of  blue  (or  any  other  colour), 
and  2  of  white  ;  or  4  of  blue,  and  4  of  white  ;  or  6  of 


62  THEORY  AKD  PRACTICE  OF 

blue,  and  6  of  white  or  any  other  pattern  that  is  half- 
and-half,  up  to  40  ends  of  the  one,  and  40  of  the  other, 
it  may  be  warped  2  beams  of  blue,  and  2  beams  of  white, 
and  the  exact  pattern  is  made  by  the  twister  when 
twisting  the  web ;  or  if  the  pattern  is  £  of  one  colour, 
and  J  of  another,  then  warp  3  beams  of  the  one  and  1 
beam  of  the  other,  and  the  drawer  or  twister  makes  the 
pattern.  But  if  a  pattern  similar  to  the  following  is 
wanted : — 

24  of  Brown. 

4  "  White. 

4  "  Red. 
14  "  White. 

2  C!  Red. 

which  is  48  ends  in  all,  in  1  repeat  of  the  pattern,  and 
say  the  pattern  is  repeated  42  times,  then  48  x  42  = 
2016  H-  4,  is  504  ends  on  each  beam,  which  may  be 
warped  as  follows  : — 

2  heams  with  6  Brown  and  2  beams  6  Brown. 
1  White,  1  White. 

1  Red,  1  Red. 

3  White,  4  White. 

IRed. 


]2  12 

Another  example  cf  this  kind  will  show  how  the 
most  difficult  pattern  can  be  warped  on  beams : — 


60  ends  of  Brown. 
2       "       Bed. 
2       "       Orange. 
2       "       Yellow. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAV1NU. 


8       " 

Green. 

2       " 

Brown. 

20       " 

Slate. 

2       " 

Brown. 

8       " 

Green. 

2       » 

Yellow. 

2       " 

Orange. 

2       " 

Red. 

10       " 

White. 

10       " 

Brown. 

10       " 

White. 

4       " 

Red. 

14       " 

White. 

14       « 

Brown. 

4       " 

Green. 

2       " 

Orange. 

20       « 

Brown. 

20       " 

Slate. 

9  times 

over. 

2  Beams  with  15  Brown,  and  2  Beams  15  Brown. 

1  Red, 

1  Orange 

1  Yellow, 

2  Green. 

2  Green, 

1  Brown. 

5  Slate, 

5  Slate. 

1  Brown, 

2  Green. 

2  Green, 

1  Yellow 

1  Orange, 

1  Red. 

2  White, 

3  White. 

3  Brown, 

2  Brown. 

2  White, 

3  White. 

1  Red, 

1  Red. 

4  White,      , 

3  White. 

4  Brown, 

3  Brown. 

1  Green, 

1  Green. 

1  Orange 

5  Brown, 

5  Brown. 

5  Slate, 

5  Slate. 

64 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


The  following  will  show  how  the  pattern  should  be 
on  paper,  and  that  paper  is  to  be  given  to  the  warper, 
then  the  dresser,  and  after  the  Web  is  dressed,  the 
drawer  gets  it  for  his  guidance: 


2  Beams. 

2  Beams. 

60  Brown, 

15 

15 

2  Red, 

1 

0 

2  Orange, 

0 

1 

2  Yellow, 

1 

0 

8  Green, 

2 

2 

2  Brown, 

0 

1 

20  Slate, 

5 

5 

2  Brown, 

1 

0 

8  Green, 

2 

2 

2  Yellow, 

0 

1 

2  Orange, 

1 

0 

2  Red, 

0 

1 

10  White, 

2 

3 

10  Brown, 

3 

2 

10  White, 

2 

3 

4  Red, 

1 

1 

14  White, 

4 

3 

14  Brown. 

4 

3 

4  Green, 

1 

1 

2  Orange, 

0 

1 

20  Brown, 

5 

5 

20  Slate, 

5 

5 

220 

55 

55 

9  times 

over. 

9  times  over  means  that  the  pattern  is  repeated  9  times 
in  the  breadth  of  the  Web,  which  in  this  pattern  makes 
1980  ends,  and  say  8  threads  for  the  selvage,  gives 
1988  in  all,  and  this  divided  by  4,  makes  497  ends  for 
each  beam. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  65 

To  warp  patterns  with  fine  and  coarse  yarn,  the  best 
method  is  to  put  the  coarse  on  one  beam,  and  the  fine 
on  another,  and  make  the  pattern  in  the  dressing 
machine,  or,  by  the  drawer,  when  drawing  the  web 
into  the  heddles,  whatever  way  the  pattern  answers 
best ;  but  if  both  the  coarse  and  fine  are  put  on  one 
beam,  it  will  then  be  necessary  to  bank  for  the  pattern, 
and  in  taking  the  yarn  through  the  warper's  reed,  it 
must  be  observed  that  splits  will  require  to  be  left  empty 
in  proportion  to  the  coarse  yarn  ;  for  example,  if  the 
fine  yarn  is  No.  GO's,  and  the  coarse  No.  20's,  then  one 
thread  of  20's  must  have  the  space  of  3  splits  to  keep 
it  from  forming  a  larger  diameter  on  the  beam  than  the 
fine.  Suppose  the  pattern  to  be  80  threads  of  No.  GO's. 
and  10  threads  of  No.  20's,  then  the  10  threads  of  20's 
would  require  to  be  drawn  through  the  warper's  reed,  I 
split  full,  and  2  splits  empty  alternately,  and  the  60s 
will  have  1  thread  in  each  split  as  usual. 

In  power-loom  warping  it  is  a  common  practice  for 
the  warper  to  take  out  the  bobbins  before  they  are  run 
near  empty.  Sometimes  a  considerable  quantity  of  yarn 
is  left  on  them,  and  to  avoid  this  as  much  as  possible, 
the  barrel  of  the  bobbins  should  be  at  least  l^  inch  in 
diameter,  for  if  they  be  less  the  bobbins  will  not  run 
until  they  are  empty,  without  the  risk  of  the  yarn  break- 
ing frequently.  Another  advantage  is  gained  by 
having  the  barrel  of  the  bobbins  large,  namely,  that 
less  yarn  is  allowed  to  go  to  waste,  the  bobbins  are 
stronger,  and  less  liable  to  be  broken.  f 


66  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

Some  Manufacturers  have  tlieir  bobbins  painted  dif- 
ferent colours,  a  colour  for  each  size;  when  this  is  done, 
the  warper  can  see  at  once  when  the  yarn  is  mixed. 


BEAMING. 

After  the  process  of  warping  next  comes  beaming  (if 
the  web  is  to  be  dressed  in  the  loom),  which  is  to  put 
the  warp  on  the  weavers  beam  in  a  proper  manner.  The 
first  thing  is  to  ascertain  the  number  of  half-gangs,  and 
the  breadth  of  the  web,  then  pass  two  rods  through 
the  half-gang  lease,  which  is  made  by  the  warper  for 
the  purpose  of  getting  the  Web  put  into  the  ravel. 
After  this  is  done,  the  ravel  must  be  set  to  answer 
the  breadth  of  the  web,  then  fix  the  end  of  the  chain 
to  the  beam,  and  commence  winding  it  on.  Ravels  are 
now  made  to  answer  any  set,  the  old  kinds  were  made 
like  reeds,  and  marked  5,  6,  7,  or  8  score,  according  to 
the  fineness  of  the  ravel. 

The  beamer  must  be  particular  to  tie  all  the  broken 
threads,  and  in  doing  so,  not  to  cross  them,  or  the  weaver 
will  have  a  deal  of  unnecessary  trouble  in  making  his 
Web,  by  being  obliged  to  stop  frequently  to  take  out 
the  crossed  yarn  and  put  it  in  its  proper  place.  Many 
of  the  beams  yet  used  by  the  hand-loom  weavers  have 
no  flanges  on  them  to  support  the  selvage  of  the  Web ; 
and  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  ravel  coarser  than  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  67 

Web,  to  form  the  headings  in  the  process  of  beaming  ; 
this  is  done  by  holding  the  ravel  oblique,  as  the  beaming 
proceeds. 

In  beaming  for  the  power-loom,  the  Web,  or  Chain 
must  be  starched  or  sized  before  commencing  to  beam. 

Generally  the  machine  is  driven  by  power.  Some- 
times a  reed  is  used  instead  of  a  ravel,  and  two  threads 
put  into  one  split  of  the  reed,  with  a  rod  between  them, 
so  that  when  the  yarn  is  wound  on  the  beam,  every 
thread  takes  its  own  place.  This  sort  of  beaming  does 
much  better  for  power-loom  weavers  in  general,  than 
having  the  Web  beamed  in  half-gangs.  When  the 
chain  or  Web  is  to  be  beamed  in  this  manner,  the  warper 
of  the  chain  will  require  to  take  a  thread  lease  at  both 
ends  of  the  chain  :  it  is  obvious  that  the  yarn  will  have 
less  chance  of  being  crossed  on  the  beam  when  it  is 
beamed  in  this  way. 

When  the  yarn  is  dyed  in  the  chain  and  is  to  be 
dressed  in  the  dressing  machine  afterwards,  the  reed 
should  be  used  instead  of  the  ravel,  as  it  is  more  con- 
venient for  the  dresser,  and  for  making  patterns  in  the 
warp. 

For  large  quantities  of  one  pattern,  a  considerable 
saving  is  made  by  having  the  yarn  dyed  in  the  chain, 
and  the  white  bleached,  as  it  does  not  require  to  be 
reeled  into  hank  first,  and  then  winded  after  having 
been  dyed.  The  same  principle  as  stated  under  warp- 
ing for  making  patterns,  will  answer  for  making  the 


68  THEORY  AKD  PRACTICE  OF 

pattern  in  the  beaming  machine.  For  example  :  the 
pattern  to  be  made  has  in  it  white,  green,  blue,  orange, 
and  black.  The  pattern  being  drawn  out  on  paper  in 
the  usual  way,  it  can  be  ascertained  how  many  ends  of 
each  colour  will  be  required  to  make  the  Web,  then  dye 
a  chain  for  each  colour,  and  indent  them  at  the  beam- 
ing machine  according  to  pattern.  When  a  number  of 
chains  are  required  for  one  Web,  the  beamer  must  be 
very  careful  to  have  them  all  kept  the  same  tightness  ; 
otherwise,  some  parts  of  the  yarn  will  be  overstrained. 


SIZING  AND  DRESSING. 

SIZING 

Is  to  put  the  yarn  that  forms  the  warp  of  the  Web 
through  a  process  whereby  the  fibres  of  the  thread  are 
all  laid  or  glued  together.  There  have  been  many 
different  ways  of  accomplishing  this. 

The  method  used  by  the  hand-loom  weaver  is  to  put 
the  dressing  on  with  two  hand  brushes,  but  before 
beginning  to  put  the  paste  on,  the  lease  rods  will  require 
to  be  taken  back  from  their  working  place,  to  the  yarn 
beam,  and  that  part  of  the  yarn  that  is  to  be  dressed, 
should  be  cleared  of  all  lumps,  and  the  long  ends 
of  knots  that  would  damage  the  cloth,  or  retard  the 
progress  of  the  weaving;  when  this  is  done,  the  dressing 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  69 

should  be  brushed  on  tenderly  and  regular,  so  as  not  to 
have  one  part  of  the  Web  with  too  much,  and  the  other 
part  with  too  little  of  the  size.  The  weaver  then 
separates  the  threads  of  the  Warp  with  the  lease  rod, 
by  turning  it  on  its  edge  ;  he  then  uses  a  fan  for  the 
purpose  of  drying  the  Warp,  at  the  same  time,  using 
one  of  the  brushes  to  keep  the  threads  from  stieking 
together.  After  the  Warp  is  dried,  sometimes  a  little 
soap  or  tallow  is  brushed  over  it,  to  make  the  Web 
smoother.  It  is  a  very  important  part  of  the  hand-loom 
weaver's  work,  to  be  able  to  dress  his  Web  well ;  and 
it  may  be  stated  here,  that  when  dressed  yarn  is  allowed 
to  stand  (with  the  common  dressing  generally  used), 
for  any  considerable  time  before  being  woven  into 
cloth,  the  air  has  a  tendency  to  make  it  hard  and 
brittle,  and  the  yarn  then  has  little  or  no  elasticity, 
which  makes  it  very  difficult  for  the  weaver  to  work; 
besides,  the  cloth  is  not  so  smooth  and  even,  and  the 
drier  the  weather  is,  the  effect  will  be  the  worse. 

Another  mode  of  sizing  warps,  although  it  cannot 
be  called  dressing,  is  to  put  the  whole  chain  or  chains 
as  the  case  may  be,  through  a  starching  machine.  This 
machine  has  the  starch  boiling  in  a  large  cistern,  and 
the  chain  is  conducted  (in  the  shape  of  a  rope)  through 
this  cistern  by  means  of  rollers  working  inside  of  it ; 
and  after  it  has  traversed  for  a  sufficient  length  of  time 
in  the  starch,  it  moves  out  at  the  opposite  side  of  the 
cistern  from  where  it  entered,   and  passes  through 


70  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

between  two  rollers  which  presses  the  superflous  starch 
out  of  the  chain  ;  it  then  passes  round  a  number  of 
steam  cans  for  the  purpose  of  being  dried.  The  num- 
ber of  cans  in  this  machine  are  various,  the  more  cans 
the  greater  the  power  of  drying  ;  and  it  is  the  drying 
power  of  the  machine  that  regulates  its  speed. 

After  the  chain  has  passed  over  all  the  cans,  it  is 
rolled  up  into  a  ball,  and  if  required,  put  through  the 
machine  again.  (This  is  called  double  starching.) 
When  a  chain  is  put  through  the  second  time,  the 
weaver  does  not  require  to  dress  his  Web.  A  great 
many  chains  now  are  done  in  this  manner,  as  it  re- 
quires less  labour  from  the  weaver,  and  consequently 
the  cloth  is  woven  cheaper.  However,  this  will  only 
do  for  certain  kinds  of  work  ;  where  the  yarn  or  reed 
is  very  fine,  it  still  requires  to  be  dressed  in  the  loom 
or  dressing  machine. 

To  prevent  the  yarn  of  the  chain  being  torn  or  cut 
in  the  process  of  starching,  (which  frequently 
happens),  the  rollers  should  be  kept  very  smooth,  and 
the  starch  put  through  a  sieve,  to  take  out  any  im- 
purities that  may  be  mixed  with  the  flour.  The  chains 
that  are  starched  in  this  kind  of  machine,  should  be 
allowed  to  lie  in  some  damp  place  for  at  least  twenty- 
four  hours'  before  being  beamed,  otherwise  the  yarn 
will  be  brittle.  Also  care  must  be  taken  to  put  them 
in  a  place  that  is  free  from  rats  and  mice. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  71 


DRESSING. 


The  Old  Crank  Dressing  Machine  is  the  best  yet 
out  for  making  good  work  when  the  }Tarn  is  fine.  It 
is  also  well  adapted  for  coloured  yarns  ;  but  the  draw- 
back with  it  in  common  work,  is  the  small  quantity 
that  can  be  produced,  although  it  may  yet  be  improved 
in  this  respect.     (See  crank  dressing  machine) . 

The  yarn  is  first  warped  on  four  beams,  and  two 
beams  put  at  each  end  of  the  machine.  It  is  then  drawn 
through  the  back  reed,  two  threads  in  each  split ;  from 
this  reed  it  is  drawn  into  the  copper  (or  hole  board), 
with  one  thread  in  each  hole,  this  keeps  every  thread 
perfectly  distinct,  and  from  the  copper  into  the  fore- 
reed,  with  one  in  each  split.  The  fore-reed  is  made 
so  as  a  lease  can  be  taken  with  it ;  but  in  putting 
the  Web  at  first  into  the  machine,  it  is  better  to  draw 
dressed  yarn  into  the  coppers  and  reeds,  and  then  twist 
the  beams  to  the  yarn  in  them.  This  is  in  general 
done  by  the  person  that  draws  the  Webs  for  the  looms. 

To  work  the  Crank  Machine  properly  the  following 
observations  will  be  found  useful  to  the  new  beginner: 
The  machine  should  stand  perfectly  level  on  the  floor; 
this  can  be  ascertained  by  putting  a  straight  edge  along 
the  machine,  and  applying  a  spirit  level  on  the  straight 
edge,  and  then  putting  it  across  the  rolls.  When  it  is 
made  level  and  fixed  down  to  the  floor,  set  the  yarn  so 
that  when  the  yarn  is  stretched  in  the  machine  it  will 


72  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

be  level  also.  Then  pitch  the  machine  for  the  brushing. 
This  is  done  by  taking  the  wheels  out  of  gear  that 
drives  the  wyper  shafts,  and  placing  the  one  shaft  with 
the  full  part  of  its  wypers  exactly  up,  and  the  other  with 
its  wypers  exactly  the  reverse.  The  crank  shaft  is  then 
turned  with  its  crank  fair  up  or  down  as  the  case  may 
be,  so  os  to  make  the  brushes  take  hold  of  the  yarn 
when  they  are  in  the  act  of  moving  from  the  copper. 
The  wheels  should  all  be  put  into  gear  again  when  the 
three  shafts  are  in  the  position  above  described,  and  the 
machine  will  then  be  pitched.  A  piece  of  cloth  or 
leather  of  an  equal  thickness,  the  size  of  the  friction 
wheel,  should  be  put  in  between  it  and  the  plate. 
Some  oil  and  a  little  black  lead  should  be  used  to  make 
the  friction  work  regularly.  If  the  machine  is  new  it 
should  be  allowed  to  run  for  a  short  time  without  the 
yarn  for  the  purpose  of  seeing  that  all  the  working  parts 
are  correct. — It  is  essential  that  all  the  dressing  rolls  be 
of  the  same  diameter,  otherwise  the  yarn  will  be  strained 
in  some  parts  more  than  it  should  be.  The  belts  for 
the  fans  and  brushes  beino;  on  and  other  little  thing's 
in  their  places,  the  machine  is  read}7  for  dressing,  the 
workman  must  temper  the  dressing  to  answer  the 
fabric  of  the  cloth.  This  can  only  be  known  by  ex- 
perience, but  the  first  Web  after  it  is  in  the  loom  will 
give  an  idea  what  is  required.  The  yarn  after  pass- 
ing through  between  the  dressing  rolls  should  con- 
tinue in  a  moist  state  until  it  passes  through  the  copper, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  7li 

but  never  allowed  to  go  on  to  the  weaver's  beam  before 
it  is  properly  dried.  Many  a  web  has  been  spoiled  by 
allowing  the  yarn  to  go  on  damp.  The  brushes  must 
be  kept  clean  by  being  washed  regularly.  Some  work- 
men wash  them  every  hour,  some  every  two  hours,  and 
so  on  ;  but  it  altogether  depends  on  the  kind  of  work 
and  the  quality  of  the  yarn,  as  foul  yarn  will  require 
that  they  be  oftener  washed  than  clean  yarn.  When 
all  things  are  nicely  set  about  the  machine,  the  work- 
man has  just  to  move  about  and  watch  that  the  yarn 
is  properly  dried,  and  be  very  expert  to  mend  any 
broken  thread  before  it  is  out  of  his  reach,  and  then 
he  will  have  no  complaints  about  bad  work. 


CYLINDER  MACHINE. 

This  is  another  Machine  for  Dressing  Warps,  and 

does  its  work  very  well  with  coarse  yarns,  but  it  is  not 

so  well  adapted  for  fine  as  the  crank  machine.      The 

observations  made  for  working  the  Crank  will  also  apply 

to  the  Cylinder  Machine: — the  difference  is,  that  it  has 

no  hole  board.     It  has  the  back  reed,  the  brush  reed, 

the  fore  reed,  and  a  set  of  heddles  for  taking  the  lease. 

It  derives  its  name  (cylinder)  from  the  brushes,  as  they 

are   made   cylindrical,  and  brush  the   yarn  as  they 

revolve.      To  have  the  reed  at  the  brush  properly  set 

is  very  important,  and  the  proper  way  is  to  have  it  so 

G 


74  THEORY  AM)  PRACTICE  OF 

as  the  brush  may  just  touch  the  yarn  with  the  points 
of  the  hair.  This  is  regulated  by  thumb  screws,  with 
their  points  resting  on  the  side  framing  of  the  machine. 
The  dressing  used  in  these'  machines  is  in  general 
made  from  American  sour  flour,  and  is  prepared  in  the 
following  manner  : — the  flour  is  steeped  in  the  pro- 
portion of  5  pounds  of  flour  to  3  gallons  of  water,  for 
two  or  three  days.  It  is  then  put  into  the  boiler  and 
boiled  for  about  two  hours.  When  it  is  sufficiently  boiled 
the  dressing  is  drawn  off,  and  put  into  tubs,  and  allowed 
to  stand  for  two  or  three  days  more,  before  it  is  used, 
for,  when  it  is  used  too  new,  the  yarn  is  not  well  dressed. 


TAPE  LEG  DRESSING  MACHINE. 

A  machine  has  been  in  use  for  twelve  or  fifteen  j-ears, 
which  is  known  by  the  name  tape  leg  dressing  machine 
(see  tape  leg  dressing  machine),  it  combines  both  the 
starching  and  dressing,  and  the  yarn  is  put  on  the 
weaver's  beam,  at  the  same  time.  There  are  different 
kinds  of  these  machines,  which  will  be  explained  under 
the  head  sizing  and  dressing  machines,  it  will  be 
sufficient  to  notice  here  the  working  of  it,  which  is  very 
simple.  The  yarn  for  this  machine  should  be  warped 
as  wide  on  the  beams  as  the  machine  will  take  in,  so  as 
to  give  it  the  greatest  power  of  drying.  The  warpers' 
beams  are  placed  in  such  a  manner  as  to  allow  the  yarn 
on  the  beam,  next  to  the  machine,  to  unwind  from  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  75 

top,  and  the  second  from  the  bottom,  the  third  from  the 
top,  the  fourth  from  the  bottom,  and  so  on  alternately, 
from  top  and  bottom.  The  yarn  is  then  taken  and  tied 
to  cords,  or  pieces  of  an  old  chain,  previously  placed  in 
the  machine,  round  the  cylinder,  and  over  and  under 
the  different  rollers  that  the  warp  has  to  pass  in  the 
process  of  dressing.  The  steam  should  now  be  put  on, 
and  after  the  dressing  is  brought  to  the  boiling  point, 
the  yarn  is  submerged  into  it,  and  the  machine  put  on 
till  the  dressed  yarn  reaches  the  weaver's  beam.  Then 
the  yarn  is  put  into  the  ravel,  to  answer  the  breadth 
of  the  intended  web.  The  workman  requires  to  cal- 
culate the  number  of  threads  that  are  to  be  put  into 
each  pin  to  bring  out  the  proper  width,  and  it  is  re- 
quisite, before  stopping  the  machine  (when  it  is  to 
stand  for  more  than  five  minutes),  to  take  the  yarn 
out  of  the  boiling  dressing.  This  is  done  by  winding 
up  the  copper  rolls  that  keep  it  submerged.  If  this 
is  not  attended  to,  the  threads  get  all  fixed  one  to 
another.  To  keep  each  thread  distinct  on  the  weaver's 
beam,  a  lease  cord  is  put  between  each  of  the  warper's 
beams,  and  run  through  the  machine,  until  they  come 
within  a  few  inches  of  the  ravel ;  and  then  round  iron 
rods  are  put  into  the  place  where  the  lease  cords  are, 
and  these  rods  remain  in  their  place  till  all  the  yarn 
is  dressed  that  is  on  the  warper's  beams.  This  machine 
should  have  the  elastic  ravel,  and  the  new  improved 
keeling  motion  to  make  it  complete. 


76  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

DRAWING  OR  ENTERING. 

When  the  Web  is  beamed,  either  by  a  beaming 
machine,  or  in  the  dressing  machine,  it  is  ready  for  the 
drawer.  The  beam  is  then  hung  up  with  two  ropes  or 
iron  hoops  about  six  feet  from  the  floor,  and  a  sufficient 
length  of  yarn  turned  off,  so  as  to  allow  the  end  of  it  to 
come  down  to  the  drawer,  who  sits  on  a  stool,  with  the 
heddles  before  him.  Two  rods  are  inserted  into  where 
the  lease  cords  are,  these  lease  cords  are  put  into  the 
Web  either  at  the  warping  mill,  or  dressing  machine. 
The  ends  of  the  rods  are  then  fixed  together,  and  the 
warp  spread  out  to  its  proper  breadth.  The  ingiver  takes 
thread  by  thread,  and  hands  it  to  the  drawer,  to  take 
through  the  heddles  with  a  hook,  and  the  drawer  takes 
the  heddles  in  regular  succession  according  to  the 
draught  of  the  Web.  When  the  Web  is  drawn  into 
the  heddles,  it  next  requires  to  be  put  into  the  reed, 
which  is  in  general  done  by  the  same  person,  who  has 
a  sley  hook  for  the  purpose.  He  commences  at  the 
right  hand  side  of  the  Web,  and  takes  out  the  number 
of  threads  from  the  heddles  that  are  intended  to  go 
into  one  split. 

This  operation  being  done,  the  Web  is  ready  to  be 
put  into  the  loom,  which  is  explained  under  weaving' 


TWISTING. 
As  drawing   and   reeding  a  Web  is  more  expensive 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  77 

than  twisting  one,  they  are  always  twisted,  except 
when  new  heddles  are  required.  This  operation  is 
performed  by  boys. 

The  heddles  and  reed,  as  they  come  from  the  loom 
with  the  yarn  in  them,  are  hung  up  in  the  twisting 
frame,  opposite  the  Web.  The  twister  puts  a  piece  of 
rope  round  the  pulley,  on  the  end  of  the  beam,  or  round 
the  beam  itself,  and  hangs  a  weight  to  the  end  of  it. 
He  then  takes  a  portion  of  the  yarn,  and  fixes  it  be- 
tween his  knees,  till  once  the  rods  are  put  into  the 
lease  of  the  Web.  After  the  rods  are  in,  and  the  yarn 
all  made  straight,  he  begins  to  twist  the  ends  of  the 
Web,  to  the  ends  that  are  in  the  heddles.  He  picks  out 
the  yarn  from  the  rods  in  the  Web,  with  his  right 
hand,  and  twists  with  his  left. 

In  drawing  or  twisting  Webs  that  have  difficult 
draughts,  or  patterns,  the  worker  should  get  his  in- 
structions given  him  on  a  piece  of  paper,  and  this  should 
be  kept  before  him,  until  he  can  do  without  it. 


DRAUGHTS  AND  TREADING. 

After  the  Web  is  put  into  the  heddles  and  reed,  it 
it  ready  for  the  loom;  but  before  beginning  to  explain 
the  operation  of  making  it  into  cloth,  it  has  been 
deemed  proper  to  give  the  draught  and  treading  of  a  few 
different  kinds  of  fabrics,  and   the  description  given 


78 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


here,  will  answer  for  both  the  hand  and  power-loom. 
The  explanations  for  mounting  the  different  tweels 
will  be  given  under  another  head. 


PLAIN  CLOTH. 

Is  made  by  causing  every  thread  of  the  warp  and 
weft  to  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and  tacked 
together  alternately.  This  is  done,  by  drawing  the 
Web  into  two  leaves  of  heddles  with  equal  quantities 
on  each  leaf.  But  a  plain  Web  is  in  general  drawn 
on  four  leaves,  to  keep  the  heddles  from  being  too 
crowded  on  their  shafts,  and  the  two  fore  leaves  are 
fixed  together  as  one,  and  the  two  back  ones,  as 
another,  and  mounted  in  the  loom,  as  if  they  were  just 
two  leaves.  The  figures  as  shown  at  No.  1,  is  the 
draught  of  a  plain  Web  with  four  leaves. 

No.  l 

R. 

S. 

The  figures  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  and  6,  show  how  the  yarn 
is  drawn  through  the  headles,  and  R  S  are  the  shafts. 

They  are  sunk  and  raised  alternately,  to  formj)lain 
texture.  The  term  plain  cloth  as  applied  here,  must 
be  understood  as  the  kind  of  weaving,  as  there  are  many 


4 

2  6 

3 
1  5 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  79 

fabrics  made  by  plain  weaving,  that  are  not  commonly 
called  plain  cloth,  such  as  the  great  variety  of  ginghams, 
fancy  dresses,  blue  and  white  checks,  &c.  ;  but  only 
to  distinguish  it  from  that  class  of  goods  where 
the  yarn  is  flushed,  and  it  is  this  flushing  that  forms 
all  the  variety  of  twcels,  and  figures,  that  are  made  in 
the  loom  by  the  warp  and  weft,  being  produced  by  the 
order  and  succession  in  which  the  weft  is  interwoven 
with  the  warp. 


TWEELING. 

Tweeled  cloth  is  made  for  many  different  purposes. 
But  before  proceeding  further,  itmay  be  remarked,  that 
so  far  as  its  strength  depends  on  the  mode  of  weaving, 
it  is  rather  diminished  than  increased,  when  compared 
with  plain  cloth,  containing  an  equal  quantity  of  warp 
and  weft;  for,  in  making  plain  cloth,  as  stated  before, 
every  thread  is  alternately  interwoven,  while  in  that  of 
tweels,they  are  only  interwoven  at  intervals,  according 
to  the  kind  of  tweel.  Now  in  the  latter  case,  the 
threads  can  have  no  support  from  each  other,  except 
at  the  intervals  where  they  are  caught  by  the  weft, 
and  that  part  of  them  which  is  flushed,  must  depend 
on  the  strength  of  the  individual  threads,  those  of  the 
warp  being  flushed  upon  one  side,  and  those  of  the 
weft  upon  the  other. 


80  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

For  illustration,  take  the  following: — Let  two  Webs 
be  inadeof  equallength,  breadth,  quantity,  and  fineness 
of  yarn  ;  let  the  one  be  plain,  and  the  other  tweeled, 
and  their  strength  as  far  as  material  is  concerned,  ought 
to  be  the  same.  But  if  the  strength  is  to  be  understood 
by  the  durability  of  its  wear,  the  tweeled  cloth,  will  be 
worn  out,  long  before  the  plain  cloth  is  much  injured. 

Tweeling  is  adopted  for  the  purpose  of  getting  a 
greater  quantity  of  yarn  put  in  the  same  space,  which 
this  mode  of  weaving  affords,  and  the  larger  the  tweel 
is,  the  heavier  the  cloth  can  be  made  ;  this  will  be 
easily  illustrated:  When  the  shed  of  any  Web  is  opened, 
every  thread  of  warp,  either  above  or  below  the  thread 
of  weft,  will  oppose  a  certain  resistance  to  the  operation 
of  weaving.  Now  in  plain  cloth,  every  thread  is  alter- 
nately interwoven,  and  therefore,  opposes  its  portion  of 
resistance,  whereas,  in  a  six  leaf  tweel,  every  sixth 
thread  is  only  intersected,  and  it  will  easily  be  seen, 
that  less  resistance  will  be  given  to  get  the  weft  on. 


A  THREE  LEAF  TWEEL. 

Three  leaves  are  the  smallest  quantity  that  can  make 
a  tweel,  and  its  fabric  comes  nearest  to  the  fabric  of 
plain  cloth.  There  are  a  great  many  different  kinds  of 
cloth  made  by  the  three  leaf  tweel,  such  as  jane  stripes 
for  shirting,  ticking  for  beds,  and  pillows,  furniture 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


81 


stripes,  &c.  &c.  From  Figure  No.  2,  it  will  be  seen, 
that  two-thirds  of  the  warp,  is  on  one  side  of  the  cloth, 
and  two  thirds  of  the  weft  upon  the  other ;  this  is 
accomplished  by  sinking  two  leaves,  and  raising  one 
every  shot. 


No.  2 


1     • 

3 

H  1 

2 

H  1  1 

1 

No.  3 


3 

G 

1 

4 

2 

5 

2 

5 

1 

4 

3 

6 

It  will  also  be  observed,  that  the  yarn  is  drawn  through 
the  headles,  as  follows — one  thread  on  the  first,  or 
front  leaf,  one  thread  on  the  second  leaf,  and  one  on  the 
third,  or  back  leaf ;  and  the  first  shed  is  to  sink  the 
first  and  second  leaves,  and  raise  the  third  ;  the  second 
shed  is  to  sink  the  first  and  third  leaves,  and  raise  the 
second ;  the  third  shed  is  to  sink  the  second  and  third, 
and  raise  the  first,  and  repeat. 

To  make  what  is  called  a  herring  bone  tweel,  with 
three  leaves,  the  same  treading  as  above  will  do,  but 
the  draught  will  be  as  follows : — Suppose  the  cloth  is 
for  bed  tick,  and  the  pattern  12  of  blue,  and  12  of 
white — Then  the  Web  will  require  to  be  drawn  as  shown 

in  No.  3;  which  is  G  threads  of  blue  drawn  throtighthe 

ji 


82 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


headles,  beginning  with  the  first  leaf,  and  6  threads 
beginning  with  the  third,  and  the  white  drawn  in  the 
same  manner.  It  will  be  observed  that  the  tweel  turns 
upon  two  threads,  which  does  not  make  the  herring  bone 
so  neat ;  but  if  it  be  drawn,  as  shown  in  No.  4,  with  10 

No.  4 


3 

6 

9 

13 

16 

19 

2 

5 

7   10  12 

15 

17 

20 

1 

4 

8   11 

14 

18 

threads  of  blue,  and  10  threads  of  white,  then  the  tweel 
will  turn  on  one  thread,  which  is  the  proper  way. 


A  FOUR  LEAF  TWEEL 

Can  either  be  drawn  straight  over,  or  a  headle  on 
each  leaf  alternately ;  when  it  is  drawn  straight  over 
as  shown  in  No.  5,  the  first  shed  is 


E 


No.  5 


1) 


B 


A 


4  fourth. 

3  third. 
2  second. 
1  first. 


the  back  leaf  up  and  the  other  three  down  ;   the  second 
is  the  third  leaf  up  and  the  other  three  down  ;  the  third 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


83 


is  the  second  up  and  the  other  three  down ;  and  the 
fourth  shed  is  the  first  (or  front)  leaf  up  and  the  other 
three  down.  Let  the  beginner  understand  this  figure 
No.  5  thoroughly,  and  there  will  he  no  difficulty  with 
the  other  tweels  that  follow.  That  part  of  the 
figure  at  E7  is  a  representation  of  design  paper,  or  the 
cloth  with  a  four  leaf  tweel,  and  the  dark  squares  are 
the  warp  threads  that  are  above  the  weft,  and  the  white 
squares  are  those  that  are  below  it.  The  spaces  that 
are  marked  A  B  C  D,  represent  the  leaves  of  the  beadles, 
and  A  is  the  leaf  next  to  the  lay,  or  what  is  called  the 
front  leap ;  the  figures  1,  2,  3,  4,  are  the  draught  in 
the  beadles  once  over, 

If  a  four  leaf  tweel  be  drawn  as  shown  in  No.  6,  which 
is  the  common  way  for  the  power  loom,  it  being  more 
convenient  where  both  plain  and  tweel  cloth  are  work- 
ing in  the  same  factory  ;  because  by  this  draught,  plain 
cloth  is  made  by  fixing  the  two  front  leaves  together  as 
one,  and  the  two  back  ones  as  another,  and  fewer  spare 
thrums  will  be  required,  as  they  will  do  for  either  tweel 
or  plain. 

No.  6 


D 


C 


A 


In  this  plan  the  treading  will  be  different ;  the 
fourth  leaf  will  be  raised  first ;  the  second,  second  ;  the 
third,  third  ;  and  the  first  fourth. 


8i 


THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 


A  very  large  quantity  of  cloth  is  made  by  a  four 
leaf  tweel7  where  the  warp  and  weft  are  equal  on  both 
sides  of  the  cloth,  this  is  managed  by  sinking  two 
leaves,  and  raising  two  alternately. 

Take  No.  6  for  an  example — 

1st  sink  A  and  C 
2nd  "  B  "  C 
3rd  "  B  "  D 
4th     "    A    "    D 

This  tweel  answers  better  for  sheeting  and  skirt 
lining  than  the  common  four  leaf  tweel.  The  appear- 
ance it  has  on  the  cloth  is  shown  by  figure  No.  7,  the 
sheding  being  repeated  two  times  over. 

No.  7 


m  i 


i  m  m 


m 


i  m  m 


A  FIVE  LEAF  TWEEL. 

Figure  8  is  a  regular  Five  Leaf  Tweel,  and  figure  9 
is  what  is  called  a  broken  one.     And   in    these   two 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 
No.  8 


85 


No.  9 


figures,  as  in  the  other  plans  that  follow,  the  black 
squares  are  the  leaves  that  are  raised,  and  the  white 
ones  those  that  are  sunk,  and  the  numbers  1,  2,  3,  4, 
5,  are  the  draught. 


SIX  LEAF  TWEEL. 

No.  10  is  a  Six  Leaf  Tweel,  and  No.  11  is  the  same 
broken. 

No.  10 


6 


8<j 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 
No.  11 


6 


No.  12  IS  A  REGULAR  SEVEN  LEAF  TWEEL. 


B  \  \      5 


I  I  1  1  1      i 


No.  13  Broken. 


No.  14  IS  A  REGULAR  EIGHT  LEAF  TWEEL. 

Mili  § 


i  i  m 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 

No.  15  Broken. 


87 


No.  16  IS  A  REGULAR  NINE  LEAF  TWEEL. 


I   I    I 


9 


No.  17  Broken. 


9 


The  examples  given  will  be  sufficient  to  show  how 
regular  tweeling  is  done.  It  is  seldom  that  more  than 
nine,  leaves  are  used  for  a  regular  tweel,  for  when  the 


88  THEORY  AND  TRACTICE  OF 

tweel  is  large  and  regular,  the  cloth  has  the  appearance 
of  small  diagonal  stripes,  but  when  the  draught  or 
treading  is  changed,  so  as  to  raise  the  warp  threads  at 
intervals,  of  one,  two,  three  or  more  from  each  other, 
the  tweel  will  be  broken,  and  the  cloth  will  not  have 
the  corded  appearance. 

The  following  plans  are  all  Broken  or  Fancy  Tweels, 
and  they  may  be  varied  according  to  taste.  But  when 
it  is  possible,  the  intervals  should  be  regular,  as  it  makes 
the  tweel  more  perfect ;  and  the  tweel  is  said  to  be  im- 
perfect when  the  number  of  leaves  will  not  admit  of 
this. 

It  will  be  observed  in  the  foregoing  examples  of 
tweels,  that  one  leaf  is  raised,  and  the  others  sunk ; 
but  in  what  follows,  they  are  sunk  and  raised  in  all 
varieties  to  make  the  pattern  wanted.  No.  18  is  the 
tweel  generally  called  the  blanket  tweel ;  it  is  also  used 
for  making  sheeting,  and  a  number  of  other  fabrics. 

No.  18  BLANKET  TWEEL. 


No.  19  is  a  five  leaf  tweel,  very  much  used  for 
making  table-cloths  ;  and  No.  20  is  an  eight  leaf  damask 
tweel,  also  much  used  in  making  table-linens.  We 
will  have  more  to  write  about  this  tweel  under  damask 
weaving. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


89 


No.  19  A  FIVE  LEAF  TWEEL  FOR  TABLE- 
CLOTHS, AND  No.  20  IS  AN  EIGHT  LEAF 
DAMASK  TWEEL. 


No.  19. 


No.  20. 


1    I    1    1    W,    1    1        8 

i  m  i  i  i  i  i     7 

i  i  i  i  i  i  m    6 

1    1    1    I    1    1    1        & 

K  1  1  1  1  1  1      4 

i  i  i  i  i  m      3 

i  i  m  i  i  i  i     ^ 

H  I  M  M  1  1       i 

No.  21  A  TEN  LEAF  FANCY  TWEEL. 


m  n 


10 


No.  22  A  TWELVE  LEAF  FANCY  TWEEL. 


12 


11 


10 


mm  mm 


'."J 


THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 


No.  23  A  SIXTEEN  LEAF  TWEEL,  WHICH  IS 
CALLED  THE  FULL  SATIN  TWEEL. 


16 


15 


14 


13 


12 


11 


10 


DIAPER. 

Having  given  the  draught  and  treading  of  a  number 
of  tweels,  it  is  presumed  that  the  examples  given  will 
be  sufficient  to  make  the  principles  of  common  tweeling 
understood  ;  and  if  so,  the  method  of  drawing  Diapers, 
and  the  treading  of  the  same  will  be  readily  compre- 
hended. The  few  following  patterns  given  here,  have 
not  been  published  before,  so  far  as  known  to  the  writer  : 
they  were  brought  out  about  ten  or  twelve  years  ago, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


91 


for  dresses  and  other  fancy  goods,  and  at  that  time  had 
a  very  good  run,  and  I  see  that  a  number  of  them  are 
still  made,  and  sold  at  the  present  time. 

Diaper  weaving  was  at  one  time  chiefly  confined  to 
the  manufacture  of  towelling  and  table-cloths,  but  it 
is  now  applied  to  a  great  many  different  kinds  of  goods. 
At  the  present  day,  hundreds  of  power-looms  are 
making  nothing  else  but  diaper  cloth,  which  is  sent  to  the 
Indian  market,  under  the  name  of  figured  long  cloths, 
figured  shirtings,  &c.  &c.  The  diaper  is  also  used  for 
pinafores,  cloutings,  neck-ties,  ribbons,  and  dresses  of  all 
kinds,  and  they  are  all  woven  on  the  same  principle, 
viz: — reversing  the  tweel,  and  altering  the  draught. 
It  will  be  obvious,  that  the  more  leaves  that  are  used, 
the  greater  will  be  the  scope  for  making  a  large  variety 
of  patterns ;  the  mounting  of  them  in  the  loom  will  be 
explained  under  the  head,  diaper  weaving. 


No.  24  A  THREE  LEAF  DIAPER, 
A  IS  THE  DRAUGHT,  &  B  IS  THE  TREADING. 
No.  24  B.  No.  24  A. 


3              6 

2 

4< 

1 

5 

This  Diaper  is  called  the  Irish  eye,  and  is  the  best  of 
all  for  Nursery  Diapers,  Cloutings,  and  such  like  cloth. 


92 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


No.  25  IS  A  FOUR  LEAF  DIAPER, 
A  IS  THE  DRAUGHT,  &  B  IS  THE  TREADING. 

No.  25  B.  No.  25  A. 


It  will  be  seen  on  examination,  that  the  three  leaf 
Diaper  has  two-thirds  of  the  weft  thrown  to  the  one 
side  of  the  cloth,  and  two-thirds  of  the  warp  to  the 
other ;  but  the  four  leaf  Diaper  has  the  warp  and  weft 
equal  on  both  sides,  which  makes  by  for  the  best 
bird-eye  diaper,  although  the  three  leaved  one  looks 
much  finer,  if  they  are  both  woven  in  the  same  set 
of  reeds,  and  both  have  the  same  quantity  of  shots  on 
the  glass.  But  suppose  the  warp  of  the  three  leaf  tweel 
to  be  white,  and  the  weft  brown,  or  some  other  dark 
colour,  then  the  one  side  of  the  cloth  would  be  much 
darker  than  the  other  ;  this  answers  very  well  for  some 
kinds  of  goods. 

No.  26  A  FIVE  LEAF  DIAPER  WITH  EIGHT 

TREADS. 

No.    27. 


I    4 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


1)3 


Drawn  as  shown  at  No.  27,  which  is  called  the 
diamond  draught,  and  it  has  eight  different  treads  to 
complete  the  pattern. 


No.  28  is  also  a  Five  Leaf  Diaper  with  Eight  Treads, 
and  the  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  8,  on  the  right  hand 
side  of  the  pattern  show  how  the  treading  proceeds, 
and  all  the  other  patterns  are  treaded  on  the  same  plan. 

No.  28. 


m    w> 


m    W, 


n  m 


No.  29  is  a  Five  Leaf  Diaper.     This  pattern  when 

woven,  has  the  appearance  of  being  striped,  and  makes 

a  neat  little  pattern  for  a  cravat  or  neck-tie,  when  made 

in  silk  or  worsted. 

No.  29. 


94 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


No.  30  is  a  Five  Leaf  Diaper,  with  Ten  Treads,  and 
answers  for  the  same  kind  of  cloth  as  No.  29  ;  it  has  a 
bolder  appearance  when  the  warp  and  weft  are  different 
colours. 

No.  30. 


m  m 


w,  m 


I  H 


10 


No  31  is  a  Five  Leaf  Diaper,  with  Eight  Treads ; 
the  figure  in  this  one  appears  smaller  than  in  No's.  29 
and  30. 

No.  31. 


Xo.  32  is  also  a  Five  Leaf  Diaper,  and  is  the  last 
one  with  five  leaves  that  will  be  given  in  this  place ; 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


95 


the  cloth  of  it  is  firmer  than  the  preceding  ones,  and 
will  be  better  adapted  for  bleached  cloth  than  for 
coloured  goods. — It  has  only  Eight  Treads  too. 


No.  32. 


No.  33  is  a  Diaper  with  Six  Leaves,  and  has  Ten 
Treads  to  complete  the  pattern ;  and  although  it  has 
six  leaves  and  ten  treads,  it  makes  as  firm  a  piece  of 
cloth  as  four  leaves  and  six  treads  can  do. 


No.  33. 


H 


10 


No  34  is  another  Six  Leaf  Diaper  with  Ten  Treads 
upon  it ;  also  No.  35. 


96 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


No.  34. 


m  mr  i 


'U 


10 


No.  35. 


iHH  H 


1 


10 


No.  36  is  a  Six  Leaf  Diaper  with  Ten  Treads  ;  it  is 
very  much  flushed,  and  is  a  pattern  that  will  answer 
well  for  a  heavy  piece  of  cloth. 

No.  36. 


10 


No.  37  and  No.  38  are  both  Six  Leaved  Diapers  with 
Ten  Treads ;  they  are  good  pattrens  for  dresses,  as  the 
figure  is  well  brought  out,  and  a  good  fabric  of  cloth 
kept  up. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


:»7 


No.  37 


No.  38 


Vm 


m   w/. 


m 


10 


No.  39  is  a  Seven  Leaf  Diaper  with  Twelve  Treads, 
which  does  very  well  for  towelling,  in  linen,  when  large 
diaper  pattrens  are  wanted  for  a  fine  class  of  goods  ;  it 
also  suits  for  figured  long  cloths  and  shirtings. 

No.  39 


10 


1L 


12 


No.  40  is  an  Eight  Leaf  Diaper  with  14  Treads,  and 
has  a  fine  bold  appearance,  and  will  answer  for  the  same 
description  of  goods  as  No.  39. 


K 


98 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


No.  40 


12 


H  HI 


13 


14 


No.  41  is  another  Eight  Leaf  Diaper  with  14  Treads, 
from  the  manner  of  its  flushing,  it  is  well  adapted  for 
making  a  heavy  fabric  ;  suitable  for  vest  pieces,  or  any 
other  kind  of  stout  cloth. 


No.  41 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


09 


No.  42  is  an  Eight  Leaf  Diaper  with  14  Treads  ;  it 

is  a  sort  of  double  figure,  and  looks  very  neat  in  fine 

cloth. 

No.  42 


n  i  i  nn  i 


10 


11 


12 


13 


14 


No.  43  is  an  Eight  Leaf  Diaper  with  14  Treads  ;  this 
one  makes  a  kind  of  star. 

No.  43 


H    13 
1    U 


100 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


No  44  is  a  Ten  Leaf  Diaper  with  36  Treads  ;  it  makes 
a  very  good  fancy  diaper  figure. 


No.  44 


\-  ■, 


mm   wwc  mm 


WSB. 


«iiiii 


JL^ljM  1 


12 


13 


17 


20 


21 


22 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  101 

It  is  given  in  this  place,  merely  to  show  that  almost 
any  range  can  be  taken,  by  increasing  the  number  of 
movements  in  the  round  of  the  barrel  so  as  to  get  more 
treads,  and  by  putting  on  more  flanges  to  increase  the 
headle  leaves,  if  the  loom  will  admit  of  the  mounting. 
From  No.  26  to  No.  44  inclusive,  are  all  drawn  the 
diamond  draught,  which  is  shown  at  No.  27. 


102  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 


CHAPTER  III. 
ON  STARTING  POWER-LOOMS. 

In  the  preceding  pages  we  have  given  a  general  out- 
line of  how  a  Web  should  be  prepared,  and  brought 
it  forward  till  it  is  ready  for  the  loom  ;  also  a  number  of 
draughts,  and  how  the  headles  should  be  treaded.  We 
will  now  endeavour  to  show  how  the  yarn  is  to  be  made 
into  cloth  ;  and  as  it  is  the  loom  that  makes  the  cloth, 
an  explanation  of  how  it  should  be  worked  is  deemed 
necessary. 

Manufacturers,  Managers,  and  Tentors,  or  those  who 
have  the  charge  of  setting  Power-looms  agoing,  should 
have  a  complete  knowledge  of  the  whole  Theory  j  and 
as  this  is  intended  alike  for  beginners,  as  well  as  for 
those  who  have  got  a  little  practice,  no  excuse  will  be 
made  for  placing  before  the  reader,  in  the  plainest 
language  possible,  the  whole  system  of  starting  power- 
looms.  In  another  part  of  this  work  it  will  be  taken 
notice  of  how  a  power-loom  should  be  made. 

The  reader  is  now  to  suppose  himself  in  a  factory 
where  the  Gearing  is  already  up,  all  right  and  ready 


the  Airr  of  weaving.  103 

for  motion.  Well,  the  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  get 
a  plummet ;  take  the  line  that  is  attached  to  the 
plummet,  and  hang  it  from  the  end  of  the  first  shaft  that 
is  to  drive  the  looms,  and  where  the  point  of  the  plum- 
met touches  the  floor,  make  a  mark  with  the  point  of 
it,  and  put  a  chalk  mark  round  the  plummet  mark,  then 
go  to  the  other  end  of  the  shaft  and  plum  it  in  the  same 
manner.  After  this  is  done,  take  a  cord  and  rub  it  all 
over  with  chalk,  then  fix  it  on  the  floor,  being  careful 
to  have  it.  passing  right  over  the  two  plummet  marks  ; 
then  take  hold  of  the  cord  with  the  points  of  the  finger 
and  thumb,  near  the  centre,  and  lift  it  up  a  few  inches 
from  the  floor,  and  then  let  go ;  this  will  leave  the 
mark  of  the  line  on  the  floor.  This  line  should  also  be 
drawn  writh  a  sharp  point,  to  leave  a  permanent  mark 
on  the  floor,  so  as  it  may  be  referred  to  at  any  time  when 
required  ;  and  in  some  mills  it  is  required  pretty  often 
when  shifting  looms,  or  taking  down  shafts  and  hangers. 
If  the  gearing  is  properly  put  up,  all  the  shafts  will  be 
parallel  with  each  other,  and  also  with  the  line  on  the 
floor,  so  that  there  is  no  necessity  for  plumming  all  the 
shafts,  if  care  be  taken  in  the  measurements. 

Now,  that  the  first  line  has  been  got  across  the  flat 
of  the  mill  or  shed,  as  the  case  may  be,  draw  a  line 
at  right  angles  with  the  first  line,  along  the  whole 
length  of  the  flat,  as  the  walls  of  the  mill  are  not 
in  general  straight,  it  is  not  the  proper  way  to  take 
measurements  from  them  ;  the  proper  way  to  get  this 


104  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

line  is  off  the  first :  take  a  rod  of  wood  or  a  cord 
about  ten  feet  long,  and  fix  a  nail  or  draw-point 
at  each  end,  then  put  one  point  into  the  plunimed 
mark  which  is  on  the  first  line,  and  draw  part  of  a 
circle  with  the  other  point ;  then  take  the  rod  and 
go  to  the  other  plummet  mark,  and  describe  another 
part  of  a  circle,  till  it  intersects  or  crosses  the  other 
line  drawn  as  part  of  a  circle  ;  when  this  is  done,  find 
the  centre  between  the  two  plummlet  marks  on  the  first 
line,  then  stretch  a  cord  the  whole  length  of  the  flat, 
causing  it  to  pass  over  the  marks  in  the  centre  of  the  first 
line,  and  over  that  part  where  the  circle  lines  cross  each 
other.  Having  got  both  the  lines  drawn  to  take  the 
measurements  from,  for  placing  the  looms,  care  must  be 
taken  to  have  them  all  set  parallel  with  the  shafts,  or 
the  belts  which  drive  the  looms  will  not  work  well.  At 
the  same  time  that  they  are  set  with  the  cross  line,  they 
must  be  kept  at  the  proper  distance  from  the  line  that 
is  drawn  along  the  flat,  and  that  distance  will  depend 
upon  the  space  that  is  to  be  allowed  for  the  passages. 
If  the  looms  are  made  with  the  driving  pulleys  to  suit, 
then  they  are  all  set  at  the  same  distance  from  the  long 
line  ;  but  if  the  looms  are  made  with  the  driving  pulleys 
all  at  the  same  distance  from  the  ends  of  the  looms, 
then  they  must  be  set  to  answer  the  belts,  by  keeping 
the  one  out  from  the  Ions:  line  one  inch  and  the  breadth 
of  the  pulleys  farther  than  the  other,  and  so  on  alter- 
nately ;  this  is  done  for  the  purpose  of  giving  the  belts 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  105 

room  to  work.  When  the  looms  arc  all  set  in  their 
places,  the  next  thing  to  be  done  is  to  get  them  made 
level :  a  straight  edge  and  spirit  level  is  required  for 
this  work.  Place  the  straight  edge  along  the  loom,  and 
put  the  level  on  it ;  if  the  loom  is  not  standing  fair, 
put  a  piece  of  wood  under  the  foot  at  the  low  side,  to 
bring  it  up  to  the  level. — If  the  looms  are  to  be  placed 
down  on  stones,  the  stones  should  be  made  level  before 
placing  the  looms  upon  them. 

When  the  looms  have  been  all  set  fair  and  square  and 
bolted  down  to  the  floor,  the  next  thing  to  be  done  is 
to  look  if  all  the  wheels  are  properly  pitched  ;  and  the 
workman  should  not  mind  who  is  the  maker  of  them, 
for  the  very  best  machine  makers  have  sometimes  care- 
less workmen,  and  a  bad  job  may  escape  the  eye  of  the 
manager  at  times  ;  it  is  therefore  better  to  look  and  see 
that  all  is  right  about  the  working  parts  himself,  and 
to  put  a  little  oil  on  each  journal  before  putting  the 
driving  belts  on.  To  ascertain  the  length  of  the  belt, 
the  usual  way  is  to  take  a  cord  and  pass  it  round  the 
drum  and  loom  pulley,  and  measure  the  belt  from  it ; 
but  if  the  looms  are  to  be  driven  from  the  flat  below 
them,  this  will  not  be  so  easily  done ;  and  the  method 
for  finding  the  length  of  the  belt  in  this  case,  is  as 
follows  : — Take  the  distance  from  the  loom  pulley  to  the 
floor,  and  from  the  floor  to  the  shaft  below ;  and  find 
out  the  distance  from  the  loom  to  the  shaft,  by  boring 
a  small  hole  in  the  floor,  and  putting  down  a  plum-line 


106  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

right  below  the  loom  shaft ;  then  measure  from  the  cord 
to  the  shaft,  and  draw  the  drum  and  loom  pulley  on  the 
floor,  at  the  distance  found  by  the  measurement ;  also 
draw  a  line  to  represent  the  floor,  and  the  exact  place 
will  be  seen  where  the  floor  should  be  cut  for  the  belt, 
the  length  of  the  belt  can  be  taken  from  this  drawing. 
\Vhen  putting  the  belt  on  to  drive  the  loom,  care  must 
be  taken  to  have  all  the  joinings  of  the  belt  running  in 
the  same  direction,  and  they  should  also  run  with  the 
pulley  or  drum.  The  writer  has  seen  workmen  that  had 
been  years  at  the  trade,  who  did  not  know,  or  if  they  did, 
they  paid  no  attention  to  this  simple  rule,  although  it  is 
a  very  important  one.  After  fixing  up  the  protector, 
and  taking  off  the  weft  stopper  fork,  the  belt  should  be 
put  on  and  the  loom  allowed  to  run  for  a  few  hours 
without  the  shuttles  ;  then  put  a  reed  into  its  place  in 
the  lay.  A  pair  of  shuttles  should  now  be  selected, 
and  to  ascertain  if  they  are  a  pair,  try  them  with 
callipers  to  see  that  they  are  both  the  same  breadth,  and 
place  them  on  the  race  of  the  lay,  or  some  other  plain 
surface,  to  see  if  their  tips  are  all  the  same  distance 
from  the  bottom  of  the  shuttle ;  this  can  be  done  by 
bringing  the  tips  of  each  shuttle  in  contact  with  the 
tips  of  its  neighbour ;  if  the  shuttles  are  not  properly 
matched,  the  workmen  need  not  expect  to  have  a  good 
working  loom ;  for  if  the  shuttle  box  is  made  to  fit 
the  one  it  cannot  fit  the  other,  and  the  shed  may  answer 
for  one  of  the  shuttles  and  the  other  dip  below  some 
of  the  yarn,  which  will  spoil  the  cloth. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  107 

HOW  TO  PITCH  THE  LOOM. 

The  common  meaning  in  the  Trade  as  applied  to 
Pitching  a  Loom,  is  to  set  the  Shedding  and  Pitching 
Motion  in  the  proper  relation  to  each  other ;  but  the 
correct  definition  of  pitching  the  loom  extends  to  the 
fixing  and  setting  of  all  its  working  parts;  and  the 
first  thing  to  fix  is  the  shuttle  boxes,  and  the  front 
box  side  should  be  set  parallel  with  the  back  one,  (not 
wider  at  the  one  end  than  it  is  at  the  other,  as  is  very 
commonly  done  by  some  workmen  who  do  not  under- 
stand their  business).  The  shuttles  should  go  into 
the  boxes  quite  easy,  but  not  to  have  too  much  play ; 
the  boxes  should  be  about  the  tenth-part  of  an  inch 
wider  than  the  shuttle  is  broad.  After  the  shuttles 
are  fitted  into  their  boxes,  the  next  thing  is  to  put  on 
the  drivers,  and  if  the  lay  has  spindles,  the  drivers 
should  be  made  to  slide  along  on  them  quite  free,  and 
not  to  touch  the  race  of  the  lay ;  when  the  drivers  are 
got  on,  then  put  on  the  shuttle  cords,  keeping  them 
both  the  same  length,  and  when  the  lay  is  half  way 
back,  the  drivers  should  come  within  one  inch  of  the 
end  of  the  lay.  If  the  drivers  are  allowed  to  strike 
against  the  end  of  the  lay,  the  weft  copes  will  be  in 
danger  of  being  torn,  and  also  the  drivers  themselves 
will  have  a  tendency  to  be  split. 

The  loom  will  now  require  to  be  what  is  (commonly) 
called    pitched ;     that    is,    setting   the    Bhedding  and 


103  THEORY  AX1)  PRACTICE  OFF 

picking  motion  in  their  proper  positions  in  relation  to 
the  other  working  parts  of  the  loom.  If  it  is  for  heavy 
work,  the  shed  must  be  full  open  when  the  lay  is  just 
at  the  turn  to  go  back ;  if  it  is  for  muslins,  then  the 
shed  should  be  close  when  the  lay  begins  to  go  back. 
This  is  in  general  done  by  taking  the  main  wheel 
out  of  gear,  and  turning  the  wyper  shaft  round  until  it 
comes  to  the  proper  place  for  the  shedding.  After 
this  is  accomplished,  the  picking  pulley  (or  cone,  or 
whatever  other  article  the  loom  has  got  for  giving 
motion  to  the  shuttle)  is  next  set  in  its  proper  place, 
and  as  a  general  rule,  the  lay  should  be  nearly  half  way 
back  when  the  shuttle  begins  to  move.  To  ascertain 
that  the  picking  is  properly  set,  the  workman  takes 
hold  of  the  lay  with  the  one  hand,  and  the  driver  with 
the  other,  and  turns  the  loom  until  he  feels  the  driver 
begin  to  move ;  he  can  then  see  if  the  lay  is  at  its 
proper  position,  and  if  it  is  not,  he  alters  the  picking- 
pulley  to  suit ;  if  the  loom  is  made  on  the  right 
principle,  the  driver  should  come  within  two  inches 
of  the  spindle  head  when  the  shuttle  is  full  picked ; 
if  the  driver  comes  up  tight  to  the  spindle  head,  the 
form  of  the  picking  apparatus  has  not  been  made  right, 
which  will  cause  a  loss  of  power. 

The  protector  or  mechanism  that  stops  the  loom 
when  any  accident  occurs,  can  now  be  arranged  and 
put  in  right  working  order,  so  that  when  the  shuttle 
i-  out  of  its  place,  the  loom  will  be  stopped  in  a  proper 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  109 

lnanner ;  this  should  be  attended  to  very  carefully,  as 
carelessness  in  setting  this  motion  causes  many 
smashes  in  the  warp.  If  it  is  a  loom  with  the  old 
knock  oft'  (or  chap  off  as  it  is  called  in  Scotland) 
motion,  with  the  spike  and  frog,  the  spike  should  be 
allowed  to  touch  the  frog,  when  the  shuttle  is  out  of 
the  box,  and  be  of  sufficient  length  to  have  the  loom 
stopped  when  the  lav  wants  at  least  two-and-a-half 
inches  from  being  full  forward  ;  and  when  the  shuttle 
is  in  the  box,  it  should  clear  the  frog  about  a  quarter 
of  an  inch.  But  if  the  loom  be  made  with  the  fly 
reed  motion,  then  the  spike  for  stopping  the  loom  does 
not  act,  except  when  the  shuttle  stops  in  the  shed, 
and  the  reed  is  thrown  back.  The  spike  in  this  loom 
should  be  set  so  as  just  to  touch  the  small  nob  on  the 
handle  of  the  loom,  and  the  weight  or  spring  which 
keeps  the  reed  in  its  place  when  the  shuttle  is  running 
must  be  so  set  as  to  allow  it  to  go  back  at  the  instant 
the  cloth  begins  to  press  upon  the  shuttle. 

The  loom  should  now  be  put  on  to  work  for  a  short 
time  with  the  shuttles,  before  the  Web  is  put  into 
it ;  this  is  the  best  time  to  examine  all  the  working- 
parts  again,  to  see  if  they  are  all  in  good  working  trim  ; 
it  is  also  the  best  time  to  see  how  the  shuttle  runs 
along  the  lav.  If  it  runs  straight  and  enters  the  box 
without  any  stammering,  it  is  all  right;  but  if  it  has 
a  quaver-when  it  runs  across  the  lay.  and  docs  not  go 
easily  into  the  box.   then   there   is  something  wrong, 


110  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

and  that  something  must  be  made  right.  The  follow- 
ing is  a  few  of  the  things  that  occur  to  cause  the  shuttle 
to  run  uneven: — The  shuttle  itself  may  be  round  on 
its  back,  which  will  cause  it;  the  reed  may  not  be  fair 
with  the  back  of  the  shuttle  box;  the  race  of  the  lay 
may  not  be  straight;  the  spindle  for  the  driver,  or  the 
grove  for  the  tongue  of  the  driver  may  be  wrong;  the 
box  sides  may  be  so  placed  as  to  cause  it,  or  the  pick- 
ing itself  may  be  too  strong;  and  many  a  time  it  is 
caused  by  obstructions  which  occurs  for  want  of  clean- 
liness, by  allowing  oil  and  dust  to  cluster  in  small 
pieces  about  the  box. 

After  all  has  been  ascertained  to  be  right,  the  Web 
can  be  placed  in  the  loom;  the  cords  are  now  put  into 
the  heddle  shafts  at  the  places  where  they  "will  suit  for 
the  roller  above,  and  the  marches  or  treadles  below ; 
the  heddles  are  then  hung  to  the  small  straps  for  sup- 
porting them,  and  the  reed  is  fixed  in  the  lay.  The 
eyes  of  the  heddles  should  now  be  made  to  hang 
opposite  the  centre  of  the  reed,  and  parallel  with  the  race 
of  the  lay;  the  pace  cord  is  next  put  on,  and  then  the 
yarn  of  the  Web  is  tied  to  a  rod  which  is  fixed  with 
cords  to  the  cloth  beam;  this  is  knotting  up  the  Web, 
(as  it  is  termed  in  the  Trade).  AVhile  knotting  up  the 
Web,  the  workman  uses  a  brush  to  bring  forward  all 
the  slack  ends  before  he  ties  them;  after  all  is  tied, 
the  heddles  are  moved  a  little  backAvards,  and  as  much 
yarn  unwound  from  the  beam  as  will  allow  the  rod  to 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  ill 

pass  over  the  breast-beam.  The  hedtlles  are  next  at- 
tached to  the  treadles,  and  are  adjusted  with  the  cords, 
straps,  or  screws,  in  such  a  manner  as  both  the  heddles 
and  treadles  will  be  even  at  the  same  time  when  the 
treadles  are  in  contact  with  the  wypers.  By  moving  the 
loom  now,  it  will  be  seen  how  the  warps  are  shedded;  if 
the  sheds  do  not  please,  the  heddles  can  be  taken  up 
or  down  by  means  of  the  cords,  or  straps,  till  once  a 
proper  shed  is  made;  when  the  shed  is  full  open,  the 
warp  threads  should  not  be  rubbing  on  the  race  of  the 
lay,  but  as  far  down  as  just  to  clear  it,  nor  touching 
the  top  rim  of  the  reed;  indeed,  for  light  work  the 
smaller  the  shed  is  the  better,  if  the  shuttle  has  suffi- 
cient room  to  pass  freely  through  it;  but  in  heavy 
work  the  sheds  are  made  larger,  for  the  purpose  of 
putting  a  proper  finish  on  the  cloth,  by  spreading  the 
warp  threads,  &c. 

The  Loom  and  the  Web  is  now  ready  for  making 
cloth,  which  can  be  done  by  putting  the  shuttle  in 
with  weft  in  it,  and  setting  the  loom  in  motion,  either 
with  the  hand  for  a  few  shots  at  first,  or  putting  on 
the  belt.  It  is  the  workman's  duty  who  starts  the 
loom,  to  see  that  the  proper  quantity  of  shots  are  on 
the  cloth,  and  that  all  other  things  are  right  about  the 
loom  and  Web  before  it  is  left  to  the  superintendence 
of  the  weaver ;  it  is  very  annoying  to  the  weaver  to 
have  occasion  to  call  him  back  frequently  to  adjust 
some  trifling  thing  which  might  have  been  done  at 
first. 


m  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

If  the  loom  has  a  regular  uptaking  motion  for  the 
cloth,  which  requires  the  pinion  to  be  changed  to  alter 
the  quantity  of  shots,  the  pinion  required  is  in  general 
found  by  simple  proportion;  but  when  the  loom  is  new, 
as  the  reader  may  suppose  the  one  under  explanation, 
the  rule  is  very  different,  which  will  now  be  explained. 
The  first  thing  is  to  ascertain  the  number  of  shots  that 
are  to  be  on  the  cloth;  then  find  the  circumference  of 
the  beam  that  winds  up  the  cloth,  (commonly  called 
the  card  or  immery  beam),  also  the  number  of  shots 
contained  in  the  cloth,  the  length  of  which  will  be 
equal  to  the  circumference  of  the  beam;  also  count 
the  teeth  of  the  wheel  on  the  end  of  the  beam,  and  the 
number  of  teeth  in  the  ratchet  wheel,  and  from  these 
the  proper  pinion  will  be  found. 


EXAMPLES. 

Suppose  the  cloth  is  to  have  10  shots  on  the  glass. 
(Scotch  glass),  or  54  shots  on  the  inch,  which  is  nearly 
the  same;  and  suppose  the  circumference  of  the  beam 
to  be  13  inches,  and  the  wheel  on  the  end  of  the  beam 
to  have  140  teeth,  and  the  ratchet  wheel  120;  multiply 
the  shots  on  one  inch  by  the  circumference  of  the 
beam,  and  divide  by  the  number  of  teeth  in  the  ratchet 
wheel,  and  the  answer  will  be  the  divisor  for  the  beam 
wheel,  and  when  divided,  the  quotient  will  be  the 
number  of  teeth  for  the  pinion. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  113 


Shots  on  one  inch,  54 

Circumference  of  Beam,         13  Inch. 


162 
54 


Teeth  in  Ratchet  Wheel  120)702(585 

600 


102  0 
96-0 


600 
600 


The  teeth  in  the  wheel  on  the  end  of  the  beam  is 
divided  by  this  number,  5 '85,  as  under: — 

5-85)140-0(23-93,  nearly  24  Teeth. 
1170 


2300 
1755 

5450 
5265 

1S50 
1755 


It  will  be  seen  from  the  above  calculation,  that  the 
pinion  required  has  24  teeth,  and  for  any  other  number 
of  shots  more  or  less,  the  pinion  can  be  found  by  simple 
proportion.  For  example,  if  10  shots  require  24  teeth, 
what  will  8  require;   8  will  require  more;  thus, 

M 


114  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 


24 
10 


8)240 


30  Teeth  for  8  Shots. 

The  principle  upon  which  looms  are  made  at  present, 
a  proper  pinion  cannot  at  all  times  be  found  to  answer 
the  exact  number  of  shots ;  but  if  they  were  made  with 
the  shifting  pinion  to  be  the  driven  instead  of  the  driver, 
then  the  proper  number  of  teeth  could  be  got  for  any 
given  quantity  of  shots,  and  this  woidd  only  require 
a  little  alteration  in  the  construction  of  the  loom  for 
the  uptaking  motion. 

Suppose  the  loom  is  all  in  good  working  order  for 
making  cloth,  the  weaver  s  principal  work  is  to  fill 
and  shift  the  shuttles,  and  tie  and  take  in  through  the 
heddles  and  reed,  all  the  broken  ends.  The  weft 
stopper  will  stop  the  loom  when  the  weft  is  exhausted 
in  the  shuttle;  and  when  a  warp  thread  breaks  in  the 
shed  in  a  position  to  make  a  scob  or  float,  the  scob 
preventor  will  also  stop  the  loom,  and  an  apparatus 
may  also  be  applied  to  change  the  shuttle  without 
stopping  the  loom ;  but  those  things  will  be  explained 
in  the  next  chapter,  along  with  a  munber  of  other 
things  that  are  now  attached  to  the  power-loom. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  11. 


CHAPTER  IV. 
ON    POWER-LOOMS. 

The  construction  of  Power-Looms  as  they  were  made 
some  sixty  years  ago,  will  still  be  remembered  by  many 
people  yet  living,  as  it  is  only  a  comparatively  short 
time  since  they  were  working  in  Messrs.  John  &  Robert 
Cogans'  Mill  at  Pollockshaws.  They  were  at  first 
started  by  Mr.  John  Monteith,  at  that  village,  and  they 
are  taken  notice  of  here  for  the  purpose  of  showing  the 
young  reader  how  the  power-loom  has  progressed,  and 
it  may  be  mentioned  that  the  principle  of  some  of  the 
movements  about  this  loom  has  formed  subjects  for 
patents  within  the  last  twenty-five  years. 

The  framing  of  the  loom  was  made  of  wood,  much  in  \ 
the  same  manner  as  the  common  hand-looom,  and  the  i 
lay  swung  from  the  top,  and  was  made  on  the  same 
plan  as  a  hand-loom  weaver's.  This  loom  had  no  crank 
shaft  or  connection  rods  to  give  motion  to  the  lay  ;  it  had 
only  one  shaft  which  was  called  the  wyper  shaft,  placed 
in  the  same  position  as  the  wyper  shaft  is  in  the  com- 
mon power-loom  at  the  present  day,  its  length  being  the 


A 


THE  AIIT  OF  WEAVING.  117 

(if  the  cloth  was  too  thick).  The  spring  for  the  purpose 
of  pulling  the  lay  forward  was  set  to  suit  the  force  that 
was  required  for  putting  on  the  quantity  of  weft  desired. 
With  this  explanation,  the  following  description  of  the 
uptaking  motion  will  be  easily  understood: — As  will  be 
seen  from  the  drawing  at  figure  No.  45,  the  beam  for 
winding  up  the  cloth  has  a  wheel  on  its  end,  with  the 
worm  on  the  end  of  the  small  shaft  working  into  it ;  on 
this  small  shaft  was  a  ratchet  wheel  with  its  teeth  about 
half-an-inch  long,  the  teeth  of  which  was  made  on  its 
side,  and  the  catch  for  giving  motion  to  it  was  so 
arranged  as  it  would  take  one  tooth  every  pick  of  the 
loom  just  at  the  instant  the  lay  was  at  the  fell  of  the 
cloth,  but  if  the  lay  moved  the  smallest  space  further 
forward  than  was  necessary,  it  struck  the  top  end  of  the 
catch  and  prevented  it  from  turning  the  ratchet  wheel, 
so  that  when  the  loom  was  working  without  weft,  the 
cloth  beam  did  not  move.  It  will  be  obvious  that  the 
traverse  of  the  lay  could  be  made  short  or  long  by  the 
setting  of  the  uptaking  motion  catch ;  if  it  was  set 
towards  the  breast  beam  the  traverse  would  be  made 
long  in  proportion,  if  it  was  set  back  then  the  traverse 
of  the  lay  would  be  made  shorter.  This  was  a  very 
simple  way  of  altering  the  travel  of  the  lay,  and  it  had 
its  advantages  as  well  as  its  defects.  But  it  will  be 
evident  to  the  reader  who  is  acquainted  with  power-loom 
weaving,  that  this  loom  could  never  have  been  made  to 
make  heavy  work,  unless  a  very  powerful  spring  had 


118  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

been  applied  to  it  to  pull  the  lay  forward  ;  and  as  it 
had  no  protector  to  stop  it,  when  the  shuttle,  by 
any  accident  stopped  short  in  the  shed,  a  strong  spring 
would  have  broken  the  warp  yarn,  but  with  a  proper 
protecting  apparatus,  this  loom,  was  well  adapted  for 
giving  the  weft  shot  a  double  stroke  as  is  done  by  the 
hand-loom  customer  weaver,  a  thing  that  has  occupied 
the  attention  of  many  in  the  power-loom  trade,  and  a 
thing  that  could  be  very  easily  done  if  it  was  absolutely 
wanted.  It  was  only  necessary  in  this  loom  to  make 
the  cams  that  took  back  the  lay  with  a  double  perfory, 
and  then  the  fell  of  the  cloth  would  get  a  double  stroke 
with  the  lay  every  shot. 

As  already  stated,  the  reed  in  this  loom,'  was  al- 
lowed to  move  back  a  little  when  it  came  to  the 
fell  of  the  cloth,  so  that  when  the  loom  went  without 
weft  the  reed  met  with  no  resistance  from  the  cloth, 
and  the  uptaking  motion  ceased  to  work.  Mr.  Stone 
had  a  patent  loom,  the  reed  motion  of  which  was  some- 
thing similar,  and  he  took  advantage  of  this  motion  of 
the  reed  for  the  purpose  of  delivering  the  warp  from  the 
yarn  beam,  with  an  apparatus  the  same  as  was  on  this 
loom  for  the  cloth  beam ;  indeed,  the  moveable  reed 
has  been  the  principal  feature  in  a  great  number  of 
patents  both  here  and  in  America. 

To  prevent  any  one  who  may  read  this  from  troubling 
himself  about  inventing  things  that  has  already  been 
done,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  state  here  a  number 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  119 

of  things  that  has  been  tried  in  connection  with  the 
power-loom,  and  now  all  given  up,  or  at  least  not  in 
general  use. 

There  was  a  power-loom  Mill  put  up  in  Glasgow  that 
had  no  belts  at  all  for  driving  the  looms ;  it  was  four 
or  five  stories  high,  and  an  upright  shaft  went  from  the 
bottom  to  the  top  between  each  pair  of  looms  for  the 
purpose  of  driving  them.  The  bevel  wheels  on  the  up- 
right shafts  geared  into  bevel  wheels  on  the  looms,  and 
when  the  loom  was  to  be  put  in  motion  the  weaver 
drew  a  clutch  into  gear  with  the  bevel  wheel  which  was 
running  loose  on  the  loom  shaft.  This  did  all  very  well 
for  driving  the  looms,  but  when  it  had  to  be  stopped 
with  the  old  frog  motion  it  very  often  broke  something 
about  the  loom. 

Another  Mill  was  built  about  the  year  1824  in  a 
fine  airy  situation ;  it  was  got  up  with  considerable 
taste  and  expense ;  the  looms  were  placed  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  weavers  all  looked  in  the  same  direc- 
tion when  working ;  this  looked  very  well,  but  the 
arrangement  caused  expense  for  double  the  quantity  of 
gearing.  Whatever  was  the  cause,  the  party  that 
started  it  did  not  succeed,  and  the  work  passed  into 
other  hands. 


DOUBLE  LOOM. 

There  was  a  great  anxiety  with  some  of  the  power- 


120  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

loom  weavers  at  one  time  for  working  two  Webs  in  one 

loom,  and  one  of  them  made  a  Vertical  Loom  for  that 

. — 

purpose.  The  yarn  beams  were  placednext  the  floor,  and 

the  cloth  beams  at  the  top  of  the  loom,  and  the  lay  or 
lays  went  up  and  down  by  means  of  cranks  and  connec- 
tion rods  ;  as  a  matter  of  course  the  heddles  were  placed 
below  the  lay  horizontally,  and  were  tied  across  the 
loom  from  front  to  back  beneath  the  reeds ;  when  the 
sheds  were  opened,  the  shuttles  began  to  run  along  the 
face  of  the  reed  to  the  other  side  of  the  loom.  The 
other  movements  for  pacing  the  warp  and  winding  up 
the  cloth,  &c,  need  not  be  explained;  as  this  loom  never 
came  into  practical  use.  Another  party  in  the  year 
1846  got  two  looms  made  (for  which  a  patent  was 
obtained),  for  working  two  webs  in  each  loom.  This 
loom  will  be  readily  understood,  as  it  was  just  one  loom 
fixed  on  the  top  of  another  arranged  to  allow  the 
weaver  to  work  them  (of  course  the  framing  was  made 
to  answer  this  arrangement)  with  as  much  facility  as 
possible.  As  this  loom  had  some  advantages  (for 
working  plain  light  work),  it  deserves  a  few  words  of 
explanation.  The  top  or  crank  shafts  were  the  same 
as  those  in  the  common  loom  now  in  use ;  the  lay 
was  placed  on  slides  fixed  at  the  sides  of  the  loom, 
instead  of  being  on  swords,  and  the  connection  rods 
were  fixed  to  the  back  of  the  lay,  so  as  to  have  the 
space  all  clear  between  the  two  Webs.  This  loom  had 
no  wyper  shafts,  and  for  the  shedding  motion,  which 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  121 

is  generally  worked  off  the  under  shaft,  it  was  mounted 
with  a  common  heddle  roller  below  the  heddles,  the 
same  as  above,  and  on  the  end  of  one  of  these  rollers 
was  a  pinion,  which  geared  into  a  segment  of  a 
wheel  that  received  its  motion  from  the  wheel  driven 
from  a  pinion  on  the  crank  shaft.  (This  shedding 
apparatus  was  almost  the  same  as  that  applied  in  Todd's 
patent  loom  for  working  the  heddles) ;  the  crank  shaft 
pinion  made  two  revolutions  for  one  of  the  wheel,  and 
on  this  wheel  was  placed  a  picking  pulley  for  the  pur- 
pose of  giving  motion  to  the  shuttle,  in  the  same  manner 
as  what  is  understood  in  the  trade  by  the  name  of  dog  leg 
pick.  This  loom  had  a  wheel  and  pinion  at  each  side 
of  it,  which  was  necessary  for  picking  the  shuttle,  and  for 
the  purpose  of  giving  the  weaver  as  much  space  as  pos- 
sible for  working  the  under  Web.  The  breast  beam  was 
made  of  cast  iron,  hollow  below,  to  allow  the  cloth  beam 
to  be  placed  as  close  to  it  as  possible ;  the  uptaking 
motion  for  the  cloth  beam  and  the  pace  for  the  yarn 
beam  were  of  the  common  kind.  In  this  double  loom 
the  two  Webs  were  perfectly  distinct,  the  one  could  be 
working  while  the  other  was  standing  ;  each  Web  had 
its  own  weft  stopper,  protector,  and  driving  belt. 

The  inventor  of  this  loom  expected  to  have  got  the 
following  advantages  from  it: — He  had  a  Mill  that  was 
put  up  for  four  hundred  common  looms,  and  the  same 
space  filled  with  the  double  looms  would  have  woven 
eight  hundred  Webs;  the  same  gearing  except  the  drums 


122  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

would  have  done,  and  had  there  been  no  disadvantages, 
the  saving  would  have  appeared  thus  : — 

For  space  400  at  15s.  each, £300  ^)  year. 

,,    interest  on  gearing, 45       ,, 

,,    interest  on  first  cost  of  looms,..      20       ,, 

£365 

But  a  larger  saving  was  expected  from  another  source, 
and  that  was  the  working  of  four  Webs  by  one  weaver. 
At  the  time  this  loom  was  brought  out,  a  very  strong 
prejudice  existed  among  the  power-loom  workers  in 
Glasgow  against  working  four  looms,  and  it  was  thought 
they  could  be  got  to  work  four  Webs  in  two  looms  at  a 
lower  price  per  piece  ;  taking  the  whole  into  considera- 
tion, it  was  not  at  all  what  may  be  called  a  bad  idea. 
Another  loom  for  two  Webs  was  made  about  the  year 
1 847,  but  no  patent  was  taken  out  for  it,  and  it  seemed 
to  have  answered  the  purpose  of  the  manufacturer  at  the 
time,  as  he  got  a  lot  of  them  made  after  experimenting 
with  two  of  the  looms  for  some  months  ;  for  what  reason 
they  were  given  up  the  writer  does  not  know.  This 
loom  was  made  sufficiently  broad  so  as  to  take  in  the  two 
Webs,  with  room  in  the  centre  of  the  lay  for  a  shuttle 
box ;  the  two  shuttles  were  picked  at  the  same  time. 
Suppose  one  shuttle  to  be  in  the  right  hand  box,  and 
the  other  in  the  centre  box ;  when  the  loom  is  set  in 
motion,  the  shuttle  in  the  centre  box  is  driven  to  the 
left  hand  box,  and  the  one  at  the  right  hand  is  driven 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  123 

into  the  centre  box ;  the  next  pick  will  be  the  reverse, 
and  so  on  alternately.  It  is  evident  that  the  centre 
box  will  always  have  a  shuttle  in  it  every  shot,  and  the 
only  novel  thing  about  this  loom  was  the  protection 
for  stopping  it  when  any  thing  happened  to  keep  the 
shuttles  from  getting  into  the  boxes,  and  this  was 
managed  by  a  double  protecting  rod,  with  a  little  extra 
mechanism  at  the  centre  box.  The  centre  box  had 
double  slots  or  swells,  and  unless  the  shuttle  was  full 
in  the  box  to  operate  on  both  swells,  the  loom  would  be 
stopped.  The  working  of  two  Webs  in  the  hand-loom 
on  this  plan  is  very  old,  and  is  much  adopted  in  some 
districts  at  this  present  time;  but  this  system  of  weaving 
is  most  profitable  where  expensive  mountings  are  re- 
quired, such  as  those  that  are  used  in  weaving  damasks 
and  brocades. 


AIR  PUMP  PICK. 

The  driving  of  the  shuttles  (or  what  is  called  picking) 
has  occupied  the  attention  of  many,  and  many  different 
contrivances  has  been  tried  and  failed,  but  only  one  of 
them  will  be  taken  notice  of  in  this  place.  The  inventor 
no  doubt  had  in  his  mind  the  great  expense  that  powrer- 
loom  weavers  are  at  for  shuttle  cords,  treadles,  and  pick- 
ing sticks,  and  the  annoyance  that  tentors  hadin  adjusting 
the  shuttle  cords — it  is  a  great  pity  the  invention  did 


124  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

not  succeed.  The  shuttle,  in  this  loom,  was  driven  by 
air,  and  to  accomplish  this,  a  small  pump  was  placed  at 
one  side  of  the  loom  which  was  driven  off  the  under 
shaft  by  means  of  a  crank  and  connection  rod,  which 
gave  motion  to  the  piston  of  the  pump  that  forced  the 
air  into  a  vessel,  and  from  this  vessel  there  was  a  pipe 
taken  to  a  small  cylinder  which  was  fixed  on  the  under 
side  of  the  sole  of  the  lay  near  its  centre.  The  cylinder 
was  similar  to  the  cylinder  of  a  horizontal  steam  engine, 
with  its  piston  rod  coming  out  at  both  ends.  These 
piston  rods  were  made  of  sufficient  length  so  as  to  extend 
to  be  right  under  the  centre  of  the  shuttle  boxes,  and 
on  the  ends  of  the  rods  were  fixed  the  brackets  for 
giving  motion  to  the  drivers  ;  the  valve  of  the  cylinder 
was  moved  by  the  motion  of  the  lay,  and  the  air  was 
admitted  into  the  cylinder  in  the  same  manner  as  steam 
is  admitted  into  a  steam  engine.  But  it  will  be  evident 
that  the  loom  would  require  to  be  driven  for  a  short 
time  to  get  up  the  required  pressure  of  air  before  the 
shuttle  was  put  in  ;  the  force  given  to  the  shuttle  was 
regulated  by  the  pressure  of  air  in  the  chest  or  air  vessel, 
and  the  pressure  in  the  chest  was  regulated  by  a  safety 
valve,  which  allowed  the  air  to  escape  when  it  became 
too  strong.  The  length  of  stroke  in  the  air  pump  could 
he  made  short  or  long  at  pleasure,  so  as  to  give  just 
the  proper  quantity  of  air  required  without  a  waste 
of  power  in  driving  the  air  pump. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  L25 

THE  COMMON  POWER-LOOM. 

What  is  meant  here  by  the  Common  Power-loom, 
is  a  loom  for  working  plain  cloth,  and  a  description  of 
one  of  the  best  that  is  in  use  at  the  present  time  will 
be  given  in  this  place.     The  writer  believes  that  the 
credit  belongs  to  James  &  Adam  Bullough,  of  Black- 
burn, for  the  introduction  of  this  loom,  which  has 
been  a  great  acquisition  to  the  manufacturer  of  plain 
power-loom  cloth ;  indeed,  before  the  introduction  of 
Bulloughs'  weft  stopper  and  fly  reed,  the  power-loom 
was  (comparatively  speaking)  very  deficient,  for  with- 
out the  weft  stopper  the  looms  used  to  run  at  times 
hundreds  of  picks  without  putting  in  a  single  shot  of 
weft,  and  it  was  not  only  the  loss  of  time  and  power 
when  the  loom  was  working  in  this  way,  but  the  sel- 
vages of  the  "Web  got  all  chaffy  and  out  of  order  when  the 
loom  was  working  without  weft,  and  this  also  caused 
a  considerable  time  to  be  lost  in  getting  the  selvage 
yarn  put  right  again,  besides  spoiling  the  cloth.     The 
advantages  of  the  weft  stoppers  are  so  evident  to  any 
power-loom  weaver,  that  no  more  need  be  said  about 
them,  for  in  fact,  the  half  of  the  weavers  time  was 
taken  up  in  watching  the  shuttles,  so  as  the  loom  would 
not   go   without    weft,    knowing   well   the  bad   con- 
sequences. 


120  THEOBY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

THE  FLY  REED. 

When  Mr.  Bullough  introduced  his  Loom  with  the 
Fly  Reed,  it  created  quite  a  sensation  in  the  trade ; 
for  before  its  introduction  it  was  not  considered  profit- 
able to  drive  above  one  hundred  and  twenty  shots  per 
minute,  and  now  they  may  be  driven  at  two  hundred 
shots  per  minute,  with  perfect  safety.  The  difficulty 
of  driving  the  old  loom  (as  it  is  now  called)  at  a  high 
speed  was  caused  by  the  knock-off  motion ;  whenever 
it  was  attempted  to  run  the  looms  beyond  a  certain 
speed  there  was  great  danger  of  breaking  the  swords 
of  the  la)r,  or  the  connection  rods,  or  something  else  ; 
even  the  framing  of  the  loom  was  sometimes  broken,  so 
that  the  fly  reed  gave  the  manufacturer  the  advantage 
of  driving  his  looms  quick  without  the  risk  of  these 
breakages ;  it  also  gave  him  the  advantage  of  having 
a  much  lighter  loom  to  do  the  same  work.  Another 
saving  that  this  loom  has  over  the  old  one,  is,  that  the 
lay  can  work  with  a  shorter  traverse,  and  by  so  doing 
it  is  easier  on  the  yarn ;  and  the  reason  that  this  loom 
can  work  with  a  shorter  traverse,  is,  that  the  spike 
that  stops  the  loom  does  not  take  effect  on  the  handle 
till  the  lay  is  within  three  quarters  of  an  inch  off  the 
fell  of  the  cloth;  whereas,  with  the  other,  it  must  strike 
the  frog  for  stopping  the  loom  when  the  lay  wants 
about  two  and  a  half  inches  from  the  cloth. 

It  will  be  seen  from  the  following  what  the  patentees 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  12: 


themselves  say  about  this  loom,  and  the  drawings 
as  shown  in  Plate  No.  5,  will  illustrate  their  inven- 
tions; the  specification  is  given  in  full,  so  that  the 
reader  may  see  the  legal  form  of  such  documents. 


J.  &  A.  BULLOUGH'S  SPECIFICATION. 

uTo  all  to  whom  these  presents  shall  come,  we, 
James  Bullough,  of  Blackburn,  in  the  County  of  Lan- 
caster, Machine  Maker,  and  Adam  Bullough,  of  the 
same,  Overlooker,  send  greeting. 

Whereas,  Her  present  most  Excellent  Majesty  Queen 
Victoria,  by  Her  Letters  Patent  under  the  Great  Seal 
of  Great  Britain,  bearing  date  at  Westminster,  the 
First  day  of  December,  in  the  tenth  year  of  Her  reign, 
and  in  the  year  of  our  Lord  One  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred and  forty-six,  did,  for  Herself,  Her  heirs  and 
successors,  give  and  grant  unto  us,  the  said  James 
Bullough  and  Adam  Bullough,  Her  especial  licence, 
full  power,  sole  privilege,  and  authority,  that  we,  the 
said  James  Bullough  and  Adam  Bullough,  our  execu- 
tors, administrators,  and  assigns,  and  such  others  as 
we,  the  said  James  Bullough  and  Adam  Bullough, 
our  executors,  administrators,  or  assigns,  should  at 
any  time  agree  with,  and  no  others,  from  time  to  time 


12S  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

and  at  all  times  during  the  term  of  years  therein 
expressed,  should  and  lawfully  might  make,  use,  ex- 
ercise, and  vend,  within  England  and  Wales,  and  the 
Town  of  Berwick-upon-Tweed,  our  Invention  of  "Cer- 
tain Improvements  in  Looms  for  Weaving;1'  in 
which  said  Letters  Patent  is  contained  a  proviso  that 
we,  the  said  James  Bullough  and  Adam  Bullough,  or 
one  of  us  shall  cause  a  particular  description  of  the 
nature  of  our  said  Invention,  and  in  what  manner  the 
same  is  to  be  performed,  to  be  enrolled  in  Her  Majesty's 
High  Court  of  Chancery  within  six  calendar  months 
next  and  immediately  after  the  date  of  the  said  in 
part  recited  Letters  Patent,  as  in  and  by  the  same, 
reference  being  thereunto  had,  will  more  fully  and  at 
large  appear. 

Now  know  ye,  that  in  compliance  with  the  said  pro- 
viso, I,  the  said  James  Bullough,  do  hereby  declare 
that  the  nature  of  our  said  Invention,  and  the  manner 
in  which  the  same  is  to  be  performed,  is  particularly 
described  and  ascertained  in  and  by  the  drawings 
hereto  annexed,  and  the  following  explanation  thereof 
(that  is  to  say)  : — 

These  Improvements  in  Looms  for  Weaving  apply 
to  power  looms  (whether  used  for  plain  or  fancy  weav- 
ing), and  consist, — 

Firstly,  in  a  certain  novel  arrangement  of  apparatus 
for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the  "letting  off"  of  the 
yarn  or  warp  from  the  yarn  beam  to  be  used  in  con- 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  129 

nection  with  a  positive  "  taking  up  "  motion,  whereb)^ 
the  "letting  off"  of  the  yarn  is  governed  by  the  "taking- 
up  "  of  the  cloth. 

Secondly,  in  a  modification  of  the  above,  in  which 
arrangement  the  yarn  beam  is  held  fast  by  means  of 
a  friction  break  whilst  the  cloth  is  "beat  up,"  and 
when  being  released,  the  tension  of  the  yarn  will  cause 
the  yarn  beam  to  let  off  as  much  warp  as  required. 

Thirdly,  in  an  arrangement  of  mechanism  connected 
with  the  ordinary  "taking-up"  wheel  for  the  purpose 
of  "  letting  back  "  the  cloth  by  hand  when  requisite, 
without  lifting  the  taking-up  catches. 

Fourthly,  in  a  modification  of  the  above  motion, 
which  may  be  made  either  self-acting  or  otherwise. 

Fifthly,  in  a  swivelling  "  slay  cap,"  for  the  purpose 
of  allowing  the  reed  to  give  way  whenever  the  shuttle 
stops  in  the  "shed,"  thereby  preventing  injury  to  the 
cloth,  but  which  is  held  firm  whilst  beating  up ;  and, 

Sixthly,  our  Invention  consists  in  the  application  of 

a  friction  break,  which  is  caused  to  act  simultaneously 

upon  the  face  of  the  spur  wheels  which  connect  the 

ordinary  tappet  and  crank  shaft  (and  are  known  as 

the  tappet  shaft  wheel  and  the  crank  shaft  wheel),  for 

the  purpose  of  stopping  both  shafts  at  one  instant 

whenever  the  shuttle  is  absent  from  both  boxes,  instead 

of  allowing  the  tappet  shaft  wheel  to  stop  itself  by 

concussion  of  its  teeth  against  the  teeth  of  the  crank 

shaft  wheel  as  heretofore. 

o 


130  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

These  several  improvements  will  be  better  explained 
and  more  readily  understood  by  reference  to  the  Draw- 
ing accompanying  these  Presents,  which  is  of  a  scale 
of  about  two  inches  to  a  foot,  and  has  figures  and 
letters  of  reference  marked  upon  it  corresponding  with 
the  following  description  thereof,  the  new  parts  being 
shaded  with  color  for  the  sake  of  distinction,  and  the 
ordinary  parts  of  the  loom  being  drawn  in  outline, 
merely  for  the  sake  of  illustrating  the  relative  positions 
of  the  various  improvements. 

Figure  1  is  a  side  elevation  of  a  loom  with  part  of 
my  improvements  attached  thereto,  and  Figure  2  is  a 
section  of  a  loom  exhibiting  other  parts  of  the  Inven- 
tion. A,  A,  is  the  main  framing  of  the  loom ;  B,  B, 
is  the  yarn  beam;  C,  C,  the  crank  shaft;  D  is  the 
slay ;  E,  the  breast  beam ;  and  F,  the  cloth  roller. 

The  first  part  of  our  improvements  is  seen  best  at 
Figure  2.  Upon  the  ordinary  tappet  shaft  G  of  the 
loom  is  a  double  tappet  a,  «,  which,  as  it  revolves, 
causes  the  lever  b,  b,  to  rise  and  fall.  This  lever  b  is 
connected  by  a  rod  c  to  a  small  lever  c/,  which  has  its 
fulcrum  upon  cross  shaft  e ;  there  is  also  another  lever 
/  attached  to  the  same  shaft,  which  has  a  catch  g 
affixed  to  it.  When  the  cam  or  tappet  a  lifts  the  lever 
5,  the  lever  d  comes  in  contact  with  the  lever  /,  and 
causes  the  catch  g  to  take  up  one  tooth  of  the  ratchet 
wheel  h,  which  being  connected  to  the  yarn  beam  B 
by  the  worm  and  wheel  i,  i,  lets  off  the  yarn.     The 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  131 

quantity  of  yarn  let  off  is  regulated  in  the  following 
manner : — The  yarn  or  warp  is  caused  to  pass  over  a 
rod  or  bearer  k\  which  vibrates  upon  supports  fixed  at 
each  end.  This  yarn  bearer  k  is  furnished  with  a 
weight  and  lever  /  at  one  end  for  the  purpose  of  keeping 
the  yarn  at  the  proper  tension,  and  at  the  other  end 
of  the  same  is  a  pin  m,  which  vibrates  between  the 
stops  n  and  o.  When  more  yarn  is  let  off  than  is 
taken  up,  pin  m  comes  into  contact  with  the  stop  n 
and  projects  a  small  lever  79,  underneath  the  lever  /, 
and  holds  it  up  out  of  the  reach  of  the  lever  d,  and 
thus  stops  the  letting  off;  but  as  soon  as  the  tension  of 
the  yarn,  consequent  upon  the  taking  up  of  the  cloth, 
causes  the  pin,  m  to  come  into  contact  with  the  stop  0, 
it  will  withdraw  the  lever  p,  and  allows  the  "letting- 
off "  to  proceed  as  before.  Figure  3  is  a  side  view  of 
the  ratchet  wheel  and  levers,  and  Figure  4  is  a  plan 
view  of  the  apparatus. 

The  second  part  of  our  Invention  is  shown  in  Figure 
5.  A  is  part  of  the  framing  of  the  loom,  and  G  is  the 
tappet  shaft.  When  the  yarn  beam  is  placed  in  the 
loom  the  boss  at  the  end  thereof  is  placed  inside  the 
pulley  a,  a  pin  upon  the  boss  fitting  between  the  two 
projections  0,  0,  so  that  the  yarn  beam  connot  turn 
without  the  pulley.  Upon  the  tappet  shaft  G  a  tappet 
c  is  fixed  in  such  a  manner  that  the  instant  the  reed 
is  beating  tip  the  cloth,  the  tappet  c  causes  the  lever  d 
to  tighten  the  friction  belt  or  break  e,  upon  the  pulley 


132  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

a,  by  means  of  the  connecting  links  /,  /,  and  thus  pre- 
vent the  yarn  beam  from  "letting-ofF"  any  warp  whilst 
the  reed  is  "beating  up,"  but  releases  it  the  moment 
afterwards,  the  tension  of  the  yarn  causing  the  yarn 
beam  to  let  off  as  much  warp  as  is  required.     The 
same  arrangement  of  detached  pulley  may  be  applied 
without  the  break  in  those  looms  where  friction  is 
applied  to  the  warp  beam  by  a  rope  coiled  around  the 
end  of  the  same  and  carrying  a  weight,  the  principal 
feature  of  novelty  consisting  in  having  the  pulley  to 
which  the  friction  is  applied  detached  from  the  yarn 
beam,  in  order  to  afford  more  convenience  in  re-filling. 
The  third  part  of  our  Invention  is  shewn  in  Figures 
1  and  6.     ^is  the  ordinary  "taking-up"  ratchet  wheel 
which  is  loose  upon  its  stud,  and  has  a  ring  of  leather 
let  into  its  side ;  there  is  also  a  ring  of  leather  let  into 
the  boss  of  the  spur  wheel  r,  which  wheel  slides  upon 
a  feather  on  its  stud,  and  is  held  firmly  against  the 
wheel  q  by  the  spring  s.     The  wheel  r  gears  with  a  pin- 
ion t  upon  the  shaft  u,  which  is  turned  by  a  hand 
Wheel  fixed  upon  it  near  to  the  "setting-on  rod,"  not 
shewn  in  the  Drawing.     Thus  it  will  be  evident,  that 
by  turning  the  hand  wheel  the  cloth  may  be  let  back 
without  lifting  the  catches  from  off  the  "taking-up 
wheel"  q.     If  it  be  thought  desirable  to  have  the  shaft 
u  stationary  while  the  loom  is  working  it  may  easily 
be  accomplished  by  removing  about  four  of  the  teeth 
of  the  pinion  t. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  133 

The  fourth  part  of  our  Invention  is  shewn  in  Figure 
7,  which  is  a  plan  view  of  another  arrangement  of 
mechanism  for  letting  back.  The"taking-up  wheel"  q 
lias  a  small  pin  or  tooth  r,  which  takes  into  the  teeth  on 
the  face  of  the  wheel  w,  which  slides  upon  a  feather,  and 
is  held  against  the  wheel  q  by  the  spiral  spring  a?,  but 
may  be  thrown  out  of  gear  by  the  lever  y  either  by 
hand  or  by  being  connected  to  the  weft  motion.  When 
the  wheel  w  is  thrown  out  of  gear  the  tension  of  the 
cloth  will  pull  the  cloth  roller  back  one  tooth  at  a 
time,  so  that  any  required  amount  may  be  let  back. 

The  fifth  part  of  our  Invention  is  shewn  in  Figures 
1  and  2.  The  "slay  cap"  1,  which  holds  the  upper 
part  of  the  reed  2  instead  of  being  bolted  to  the  "  slay 
sword,"  as  usual,  swivels  upon  a  pin  or  stud  at  each 
end,  so  that  when  the  shuttle  stops  in  the  shed  it  allows 
the  reed  to  give  way,  as  shewn  by  dotted  lines  in  Figure 
2.  The  "slay  cap"  is  held  firm  at  the  moment  of 
"beating  up"  in  the  following  manner.  To  one  end 
of  the  same  a  small  lever  3  is  fixed,  which  lever  is 
connected  to  the  lever  4  by  a  link  5  ;  the  lever  4  at 
the  momeutof  "beating  up"  passes  above  the  project- 
ing piece  6,  and  thus  holds  the  slay  cap  firm. 

The  sixth  and  last  part  of  our  improvements  is  shewn 
in  Figure  1 ;  the  ordinary  "stop  rod  finger"  connected 
to  the  swell  in  the  shuttle  box,  is  shewn  at  7.  8  is  a 
break  which  is  supported  by  the  levers  9  and  10.  When 
the  shuttle  is  absent  from  both   boxes  the  finsrer  7 


131  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

remains  in  the  position  shown  in  the  Drawing,  and 
coming  against  the  projection  upon  the  lever  9,  draws 
the  break  8  into  contact  with  the  crank  shaft  wheel 
11,  and  the  tappet  shaft  wheel  12  simultaneously,  thus 
stopping  both  shafts  at  once,  and  with  less  concussion 
than  heretofore.  In  those  looms  where  the  ordinary 
break  is  applied  to  the  fly  wheel  we  propose  to  apply 
a  fixed  or  stationary  break  attached  to  the  framing  of 
the  loom  at  the  opposite  side  of  the  wheel  to  the 
ordinary  break  to  prevent  straining  of  the  crank  shaft, 
and  also  to  gain  additional  friction  power. 

Having  now  described  the  nature  and  object  of  our 
several  improvements  in  looms  for  weaving,  and  the 
■manner  of  carrying  the  same  into  practical  effect,  I 
would  remark,  in  conclusion,  that  we  claim  as  our 
Invention, — 

Firstly,  the  novel  arrangement  of  mechanism  shewn 
in  Figures  2,  3,  4,  and  5,  for  "letting  off"  the  yarn 
or  warp  (together  with  the  application  of  the  detached 
pulley  to  looms  where  friction  is  applied  by  a  coiled 
rope  and  weight),  and  also  the  method  of  regulating 
the  same,  namely,  by  the  tension  of  the  yarn  or  warp 
threads. 

Secondly,  we  claim  the  apparatus  shewn  in  Figures 
1,  6,  and  7,  for  "letting  back"  the  cloth  when  required 
without,  the  necessity  of  lifting  the  catches  from  the 
"  taking-up  wheel,  "  to  be  worked  either  by  hand  or 
by  the  weft  motion  when  the  weft  breaks. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  135 

Thirdly,  we  claim  the  swivelling  "slay  cap"  whereby 
the  reed  is  allowed  to  give  way  whenever  the  shuttle 
stops  in  the  shed,  and  also  the  apparatus  shewn  in  the 
Figure  1  for  holding  the  same  firm  whilst  "beating 
up  ; "  and, 

Fourthly,  we  claim  the  employment  or  use  of  a 
break,  as  shewn  in  Figure  1,  to  act  simultaneously 
upon  both  the  "crank  shaft  wheel"  and  "tappet  shaft 
wheel"  for  the  purpose  of  stopping  the  loom  when  the 
shuttle  is  absent  from  both  shuttle  boxes  at  once ;  and 
also  the  application  of  a  fixed  or  stationary  break  in 
addition  to  the  ordinary  one  to  those  looms  where  a 
moveable  break  is  applied  to  the  fly  wheel  for  the 
purpose  of  stopping  the  loom." 

In  witness  whereof,  I,  the  said  James  Bullough, 
have  hereunto  set  my  hand  and  seal,  this  Thirty- 
first  day  of  May,  One  thousand  eight  hun- 
dred and  forty-seven. 

JAMES  (l.s.)  BULLOUGH. 

"And  be  it  remembered,  that  on  the  same  Thirty-first 
day  of  May,  in  the  year  above  mentioned,  the  aforesaid 
James  Bullough  came  before  our  Lady  the  Queen  in 
Her  Chancery,  and  acknowledged  the  Specification 
aforesaid,  and  all  and  every  thing  therein  contained, 
in  form  above  written.     And  also  the  Specification 


136  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

aforesaid  was  stamped  according  to  the  tenor  of  the 
Statute  in  that  case  made  and  provided. 

Inrolled  the  First  day  of  June,  in  the  year  above 
written." 

There  has  been  many  modifications  of  the  Fly  Reed, 
but  the  plan  that  is  in  general  use  is  the  one  that  allows 
the  reed  to  go  back  from  the  bottom.  It  will  be  seen 
from  the  drawing  of  Mr.  James  Bullough's  loom, 
that  the  reed  flies  back  from  the  top ;  and  it  is  very 
probable  that  some  one  may  bring  out  a  loom,  the  reed 
of  which  will  go  back  both  top  and  bottom,  which  may 
be  easier  on  the  rims  of  the  reed. 

The  novel  arrangement  of  mechanism,  which  the 
patentee  claims  for  the  letting  off  the  yarn  or  warp, 
although  it  is  his  first  claim  in  the  specification,  has  not 
yet  come  into  much  use,  and  is  not  likely  to  do,  as  better 
plans  than  his  have  been  patented  and  tried  before,  and 
did  not  succeed.  But  those  failures  need  not  keep  others 
from  trying  to  get  some  novel  arrangement  of  mechan- 
ism, whereby  the  present  mode  of  pacing  the  beam  may 
be  done  away  with  to  advantage,  for  it  is  decidedly  a 
defect  in  the  power  loom,  the  pacing  apparatus  as  it  is 
in  general  applied  at  the  present  time.  Neither  has  the 
second  claim  in  this  patent  come  into  general  use,  but 
the  third  and  fourth  are  almost  in  general  use,  and  they 
were  great  improvements  to  the  power-loom.  Mr  Bul- 
lough  gets  great  credit  in  the  trade  for  his  invention, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  137 

and  he  well  deserves  it;  for  he  has  brought  out  some  of 
the  very  best  things  in  connection  with  power-loom 
weaving. 


TODDS'  PATENT  LOOM. 

About  five  years  ago,  a  loom  for  Plain  Cloth  was 
brought  out,  which  was  known  by  the  name  of  Todds' 
Patent  Loom ;  and  although  a  great  many  of  its  move- 
ments were  not  new,  yet  it  was  a  happy  combination 
of  working  parts  as  a  whole,  and  was  then  considered 
the  best  out,  and  perhaps  it  is  so  still. 

The  picking,  in  this  loom,  is  accomplished  by  the 

picking  stick  coming  up  through  the  lay,  and  by  this 

arrangement  no  spindles  or  shuttle  cords  are  required, 

the  end  of  the  picking  stick  acting  direct  on  the  shuttle 

driver.     The  picking  stick  gets  its  motion  from  a  small 

upright  shaft  fixed  to  the  sword  of  the  lay,  and  on  the 

end  of  this  upright  shaft  is  a  small  projection  like  a 

finger,  which  comes  in  contact  with  another  finger  as 

the   lay   moves  back;  it  is  by  this  arrangement  the 

shuttles  are  driven.     The  heddles  are  fixed  to  a  roller 

below,  in  the  same  manner  as  they  are  fixed  to  the  one 

above,  and  by  moving  one  of  these  rollers,  the  sheds  are 

formed. 

The  following  is  Messrs.   Todds'  own  description : — 

p 


138  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

TODDS'  DESCRIPTION. 

Our  improvements  relate,  first,  to  that  part  of  power- 
looms  known  as  the  tappet  shaft,  and  used  for"  actuat- 
ing the  tappets,  which  give  motion  to  the  heddles,  and 
consists  in  a  novel  method  of  driving  such  shaft,  which 
is  accomplished  by  means  of  a  second  shaft,  to  which  a 
rocking  or  reciprocating  motion  is  imparted,  and  at  each 
end  of  which  shaft  is  a  small  pulley  or  drum,  to  which 
is  attached  an  endless  band  or  strap  of  metal,  leather,  or 
other  suitable  material ;  the  strap  also  passes  round 
and  is  attached  to  a  loose  pulley  upon  the  tappet  shaft ; 
this  pulley  has  upon  the  interior  surface  of  its  rim  a 
spring  pressing  upon  a  pawl  or  catch,  which  acts  against 
a  plate  secured  upon  the  tappet  shaft,  and  having  two 
or  more  ratchets  or  teeth  formed  on  its  periphery.  By 
this  arrangement,  when  a  rocking  motion  is  given  to 
the  pulleys  at  the  end  of  the  rocking  shaft  it  will  be 
imparted  to  the  loose  pulley,  which  will  cause  the  pawl 
to  force  round  the  ratchet,  and  give  an  intermittent 
motion  to  the  tappet  shaft  as  required.  This  arrange- 
ment is  applied  at  each  end  of  the  loom,  and  both  driven 
in  the  same  direction  by  the  straps,  being  one  open  and 
the  other  crossed,  as  the  pawls  are  required  to  force  the 
ratchets  alternately  on  each  side  of  the  loom.  The 
motion  given  to  the  "yarn  bearer"  for  ensuring  the 
equal  tension  of  yarn  is  also  actuated  from  the  rocking 
shaft  by  means  of  an  eccentric  in  connection  with  and 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  130 

through  the  medium  of  a  suitable  arrangement  of  levers. 

The  second  part  of  this  invention  relates  to  the  rock- 
ing or  oscillating  shaft  above  mentioned,  and  consists 
in  imparting  to  the  said  shaft  an  uniform  reciprocating 
motion,  through  the  medium  of  which  a  positive  dwell 
is  given  to  the  heddles.  This  motion  is  affected  by 
means  of  a  lever  or  arm,  indirectly  connected  with  the 
crank  shaft  (from  which  it  receives  motion)  by  an 
arrangement  of  levers.  One  end  of  this  lever  is  secured 
to  the  framing,  the  other  being  enlarged  to  the  required 
size,  so  as  to  form  a  segment  of  a  circle.  About  the 
centre  of  this  segment  is  situated  the  required  number 
of  teeth,  leaving  the  two  sides  of  the  segment  a  plain 
surface  ;  gearing  into  these  teeth  are  the  corresponding 
teeth  of  a  disc  fixed  upon  the  rocking  shaft,  the 
remaining  portion  of  such  disc  having  a  plain  surface 
like  the  segment.  Supposing  motion  to  be  given 
to  the  arm,  the  teeth  thereupon  would  turn  the 
toothed  disc  until  the  plain  surfaces  came  into 
contact,  which  would  cause  a  dwell ;  if,  now,  the 
arm  moves  back  as  the  crank  revolves,  a  plate 
secured  upon  the  said  arm  will  fit  into  a  corresponding 
recess  in  the  toothed  pinion  and  bring  the  teeth  again 
into  gear,  and  so  on,  at  every  upward  and  downward 
throw  of  the  crank,  thus  causing  the  required  oscilla- 
tion or  reciprocating  motion  of  the  shaft,  and  positive 
dwell  of  the  heddles  while  open. 

Lastly,  these  improvements  apply  to  the  part  called 


140  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

the  "  weft  stopping  motion,"  usually  in  connection  with 
the  " swell"  of  the  shuttle  box,  and  consists  in  the 
addition  and  application  of  a  suitable  formed  spring, 
situated  beneath  one  of  the  cranked  levers,  one  of  which 
presses  against  the  swell  of  the  shuttle  box,  the  second 
being  employed  to  strike  the  "frog;"  this  spring  is 
placed  under  the  third,  in  order  to  assist  in  forcing  the 
second  on  to  the  "  frog,"  and,  by  being  suitably  curved, 
to  release  the  "swell,"  and  consequently  the  shuttle  from 
pressure,  as  it  is  expelled  from  the  box.  A  similar 
effect  may  also  be  gained  by  curving  the  third  lever 
upwards,  so  as  to  come  into  contact  with  a  stud  upon 
the  crank  arm,  and  so  fitted,  that  as  the  arm  moves,  the 
lever  may  touch  the  stud,  and  thus  release  the  swell 
from  pressure,  and  raise  the  second  finger  from  the 
"frog"  if  the  shuttle  completes  its  course  from  box  to 
box ;  but  should  any  occurrence  interfere  to  cause  the 
absence  of  the  shuttle,  then  the  first  lever  would  press 
the  swell  in,  and  allow  the  third  one  to  be  raised  and 
struck  by  the  advancing  stud,  and  consequently  force 
the  second  lever  on  to  the  "  frog,  "  and  stop  the  loom. 
It  will  be  seen  from  the  description  given  by  the 
patentees,  that  the  positive  dwell  of  the  heddles,  when 
the  shed  is  open,  is  one  of  the  things  they  claim ; 
but  the  same  thing  can  be  done,  and  is  done,  by  the 
common  wypers  better  than  what  it  is  in  this  loom. 
But  their  last  claim  for  the  contrivance  that  takes  the 
pressure  off  the  shuttle  before  it  is  picked,  is  a  very 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  141 

good  thing,  although  it  has  been  applied  to  power-looms 
before. 


SCOB  OR  FLOAT  PREVENTER. 

When  the  weft  passes  over  a  portion  of  the  warp 
without  being  interwoven  with  it?  the  defect  is  that  the 
yarn  hangs  loose  at  that  part,  and  it  is  called  a  Scob, 
Float,  or  Flow  j  and  to  have  a  contrivance  that  would 
really  prevent  floats  without  any  other  drawback,  would 
be  a  very  good  thing  indeed  for  the  power-loom ;  but 
all  the  plans  hitherto  tried  has  not  as  yet  proved 
successful. 

When  a  warp  thread  breaks,  and  the  end  of  it  gets 
entangled  with  the  other  warp  threads,  it  prevents  that 
part  of  the  Web  from  forming  a  shed,  by  holding  both 
halls  of  the  warp  together  in  front  of  the  reed ;  the 
shuttle  must  pass  either  above  or  below  this  part ;  if 
it  passes  below  it  will  work  a  float,  if  it  passes  above 
it  will  do  the  same,  but  it  is  in  general  thrown  out  of 
the  loom  when  it  passes  above.  By  putting  the  tips 
of  the  shuttle  a  little  nearer  the  under  side  of  the 
shuttle  than  the  top  of  it,  it  will  always  pass  under 
the  part  of  the  shed  that  is  obstructed,  and  in  doing 
so,  will  receive  a  certain  pressure  on  the  top.  After 
this  explanation,  the  following  plans  for  preventing 
scobs  will  be  understood  without  much  study. 


112  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

The  first  plan  was  to  have  the  shuttle  made  with 
its  tips  as  described,  and  a  small  nob  like  part 
of  a  circle  projecting  a  little  above  the  top  surface  of 
the  shuttle,  and  this  was  connected  to  a  lever  of  the 
first  kind  which  was  placed  in  the  inside  of  the  shuttle, 
beino-  in  the  same  direction  as  the  skewer.     The  end 

c 

of  this  lever  pressed  upon  a  small  pin  that  was  placed 
between  the  tip  and  the  eye  of  the  shuttle  in  front, 
and  this  pin  and  lever  was  so  shaped  that  when  that 
part  of  the  warp  which  would  make  a  scob,  pressed 
upon  the  nob,  it  caused  the  pin  to  project  from  the 
fore  side  of  the  shuttle,  and  this  prevented  the  shuttle 
from  getting  into  the  box,  and  the  loom  was  stopped 
by  the  common  protection. 

Another  plan  (but  this  one  requires  to  be  put  on  a 
loom  that  has  the  weft  motion  on  it)  is  to  have  the 
shuttle  made  in  the  same  form  as  in  the  other  plan, 
with  a  cutter  that  will  cut  the  weft  shot  at  or  near  the 
shuttle  eye,  and  when  this  is  done,  the  loom  will  be 
stopped  by  the  action  of  the  weft  motion,  in  the  same 
manner  as  if  the  loom  was  working  without  weft,  It 
will  be  obvious  to  those  who  know  what  a  shuttle  is, 
and  its  use,  that  in  applying  this  apparatus  to  it,  it  must 
be  in  as  compact  a  form  as  possible,  and  all  to  be  inside 
of  the  shuttle  except  the  small  curved  part  of  the  nob 
that  the  yarn  is  to  press  upon,  and  to  be  so  placed  as 
not  to  weaken  or  destroy  any  other  part  of  it ;  also,  so 
arranged  as  not  to  be  a  drawback  to  the  weaver  when 
changing  and  filling  the  shuttle. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  143 

Some  years  ago  a  description  -was  given  of  a  shuttle 
in  the  following  words: — "The  said  invention  relates  to 
shuttles,  and  consists  in  the  addition  of  an  improved 
apparatus  for  the  twofold  purpose  of  preventing  the 
occurence  of  what  is  technically  termed  'float,'  and 
of  retaining  the  cop  on  the  spindle  and  preventing  its 
being  shaken  off  by  the  vibration  in  the  shuttle  caused 
by  the  blows  of  the  picker.  The  defect  termed  'float' 
is  caused  by  imperfect  shedding,  and  in  order  to 
prevent  it,  we  cause  the  twist  or  threads  of  the  warp 
which  obstruct  the  shuttle  race  from  being  insufficiently 
raised  or  depressed  in  the  shedding,  to  press  down  a 
small  hook  or  cutter  near  the  eye  of  the  shuttle;  and 
this  being  done,  the  loom  is  stopped  by  the  action  of 
the  weft  motion,  in  the  same  manner  as  in  an  ordinary 
case  of  broken  or  exhausted  weft.  It  is  proper  to 
mention  here,  that  hooks  or  cutters  of  this  kind  have 
before  been  applied,  or  attempted  to  be  applied  for 
this  purpose ;  and  therefore,  we  wish  it  to  be  under- 
stood, that  this  part  of  our  invention  does  not  consist 
in  the  use  merely  of  such  hooks  or  cutters,  but  in  the 
mode  of  applying  and  fixing  them  to  the  shuttle  herein- 
after described,  the  peculiarities  of  which  are,  the  com- 
pact form  of  the  apparatus  and  its  capability  of  being 
affixed  on  the  solid  part  of  the  shuttle,  so  as  not  to 
weaken  the  sides  thereof — the  entire  absence  of  every 
part  of  the  apparatus  from  the  body  of  the  shuttle,  so 
that  it  is  no  longer  liable  to  be  interfered  with  or 


144  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

damaged  by  the  weaver  in  the  act  of  removing  or  re- 
placing the  cops,  and  the  incorporation  with  it  of  the 
transverse  plate  hereinafter  described,  for  the  double 
purpose  of  retaining  the  cop  on  the  spindle  and  masking 
the  hook  or  cutter  so  that  it  may  not  catch  the  yarn 
in  its  passage  from  the  skewer,  except  when  depressed 
for  that  purpose,  &c,  &c."  But  no  more  need  be  said 
about  it,  for  it  is  clear  that  the  party  who  wrote  the 
description  was  not  a  practical  weaver,  and  the  prin- 
ciple is  already  described. 


THE  SHUTTLE  CHANGER. 

A  few  words  in  this  place  will  suffice  for  a  description 
of  this  contrivance,  but  we  may  have  occasion  to  say 
more  about  it  in  another  place.  It  is  an  apparatus  for 
changing  the  shuttle  when  the  weft  cop  is  run  done,  or 
the  weft  thread  broken  in  the  working  shuttle  with- 
out the  assistance  of  the  weaver.  The  loom  that  this 
apparatus  is  applied  to  must  have  the  weft  stopper 
motion,  and  the  brake  and  the  weft  stopper  fork  should 
be  on  the  side  of  the  loom  opposite  to  the  driving  pulley  ; 
it  is  also  necessary  it  should  have  a  crank  shaft  with 
fly  wheels  upon  it  j  the  brake  acts  on  the  fly  wheel  next 
the  driving  pulley.  When  the  weft  motion  stops  the 
loom,  and  the  swell  that  is  placed  on  the  rim  of  the  fly 
is  so  set  that  it  allows  the  shuttle  to  be  thrown  to  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  145 

driving  pulley  side  of  the  loom,  before  it  is  entirely 
stopped,  for  although  the  weft  motion  pulls  off  the 
handle  of  the  loom  when  the  shuttle  is  at  the  opposite 
side  of  the  lay,  the  loom  has  acquired  as  much  force  with 
its  fly  wheels  as  carry  the  shuttle  to  the  other  side  where 
the  changing  apparatus  is  placed.  It  will  be  obvious 
that  the  loom  will  stop  always  at  the  very  same  place, 
in  consequence  of  the  swell  on  the  fly  wheel.  Suppose 
the  loom  is  stopped  when  the  lay  is  about  one  inch  from 
the  fell  of  the  cloth,  and  the  shuttle  with  the  cop  in  it 
is  placed  on  a  level  with  the  race  of  the  lay,  two  inches 
in  front  of  the  shuttle  box ;  and  suppose  the  front  or 
fore  box  side  moves  down  until  the  top  of  it  is  level  with 
the  race  of  the  lay,  then  a  pair  of  fingers  from  the  back 
box  side  pushes  the  empty  shuttle  over  the  top  of  the 
front  box  side,  and  it  falls  into  a  keeper  placed  below 
the  sole  of  the  lay,  to  lie  there  till  the  weaver  removes 
it.  The  shelf  that  holds  the  full  shuttle  now  moves 
towards  the  lay,  and  at  the  instant  it  touches  the  front 
of  it,  the  shuttle  is  pushed  on  to  the  lay,  and  the  front 
box  side  rises  up  to  its  original  position ;  when  this 
is  done,  a  small  lever  takes  hold  of  the  shuttle  and  puts 
it  as  far  back  into  the  box  as  the  driver  will  allow,  in 
the  same  way  as  the  weaver  does  it  with  his  hand. 
The  shuttle  is  now  changed,  and  the  loom  ready  to  be 
put  again  in  motion  by  pushing  the  handle  into  its 
proper  position.  It  is  already  explained  how  the  loom 
is  stopped  when  the  lay  is  within  an  inch  of  the  cloth. 

Q 


146  THEORY  AND  TEACTICE  OF 

The  instant  that  the  weft  motion  disengages  the  handle 
of  the  loom,  it  throws  the  belt  on  to  the  loose  pulley, 
and  at  the  same  time  puts  into  gear  the  shifting  appar- 
atus which  is  driven  with  the  loose  pulley.  On  the  eye 
of  the  loose  pulley  is  a  pinion  in  the  proportion  of  one 
to  three  of  the  wheel  that  it  drives  ;  the  wheel  is  a  solid 
one  without  arms,  and  has  on  its  side  cams  or  groves 
for  working  the  different  levers,  which  are  all  compactly 
fitted  into  a  framing  that  is  bolted  to  the  side  of  the 
loom  right  below  the  driving  pulley. 

The  reader  will  observe  from  the  foregoing  description, 
that  the  first  movement  is  the  front  box  side,  and  one 
lever  takes  it  down  and  puts  it  up ;  this  first  lever,  as 
it  is  named,  also  pushes  the  shuttle  over  the  edge  of 
the  lay  into  the  keeper ;  the  second  lever  moves  the  shelf 
with  the  full  shuttle  towards  the  lay,  and  a  third  lever 
puts  the  shuttle  into  the  box  and  shifts  it  as  far  back 
in  the  box  as  the  driver  will  allow.  The  fourth  lever 
pushes  the  handle  of  the  loom  on,  and  throws  the  shift- 
ing apparatus  out  of  gear,  to  stand  until  the  next  time 
the  weft  shot  brakes. 

From  the  time  that  the  loom  stops  when  the  weft  shot 
is  broken,  to  the  time  it  is  put  on  again  with  the  full 
shuttle,  is  three  shots,  but  it  might  be  managed  by  the 
loss  of  only  two  shots,  and  then  the  pinion  on  the 
loose  pulley  would  require  to  have  only  one  tooth 
for  two  that  is  in  the  apparatus  wheel. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  1 17 

ARTICLES  ABOUT  A  LOOM. 

It  will  be  of  advantage  to  the  new  beginner  to  know 
the  names  of  the  principle  things  that  compose  a  loom, 
as  it  will  enable  him  to  understand  the  various  descrip- 
tions given  in  this  work  ;  and  before  proceeding  further, 
a  short  explanation  of  some  of  them  will  be  given  : — 


DRIVING  PULLEYS 

Are  the  pulleys  that  are  fixed  on  the  top  shaft  for 
giving  motion  to  the  loom  ;  the  loose  pulley  is  the  one 
the  belt  runs  on  when  the  loom  is  standing. 


CRANK  SHAFT. 

Sometimes  called  the  top  shaft,  or  driving  shaft,  is 
the  main  one  in  the  loom,  and  has  the  pulleys  on  the 
one  end,  and  a  pinion  on  the  other.  It  is  from  this 
shaft  that  the  lay  receives  its  motion  by  means  of  the 
connection  rods. 


CONNECTION  RODS. 

The  crank  shaft  has  two  Connection  Rods  which  are 
attached  to  the  lay  or  swords  of  the  lay.  In  some 
looms  a  small  rod  for  working  the  uptaking  motion  is 
known  by  this  name. 


148  THEOET  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

WYPER   SHAFT 

Is  the  shaft  that  works  the  shedding  and  picking 
motion,  and  is  driven  by  the  crank  shaft  with  a  pinion 
gearing  with  a  wheel  on  the  end  of  the  wyper  shaft ; 
this  shaft  makes  only  one  revolution  for  two  of  the 
crank  one. 


YARN  BEAM. 

That  cylindrical  piece  of  wood  or  iron  which  is  used 
for  holding  the  warp  yarn  ;  on  it  is  placed  two  flanges, 
which  are  set  at  a  distance  from  each  other  to  correspond 
with  the  breadth  of  the  Web.  There  is  also  on  it  an 
iron  pulley  at  each  end,  which  are  called  pace  pulleys, 
because  a  rope  or  cord  is  passed  round  them  for  pacing 
the  Web.  The  end  of  the  pace  cord  is  tied  to  a  lever 
which  is  called  the  pace  lever,  and  the  weight  that  is  put 
on  this  lever  is  the  pace  weight.  The  iron  pivots  that 
the  beam  turns  upon  are  called  the  gudgeons. 


CLOTH  BEAM 

Is  the  beam  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  loom  for 
winding  up  the  cloth  as  it  is  woven ;  on  the  end  of 
this  beam  is  a  spur  wheel  which  is  called  the  cloth 
beam  wheel ;  in  some  looms  this  beam  is  covered  with 
emery  or  card  sheets,  and  then  it  is  named  the  card, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  149 

or  emery  beam.  When  this  is  the  case,  a  wood  roll 
is  used  besides,  and  is  called  the  cloth,  roll,  because  it 
receives  the  cloth  as  it  is  delivered  from  the  card  beam. 
In  hand-looms  the  card  beam  is  not  used,  and  very 
seldom  does  the  hand-loom  weaver  use  flanges  for  their 
yarn  beam,  as  they  build  the  selvages  of  the  Web  like 
a  cone. 


SWORDS,  LAY,  AND  ROCKING  SHAFT. 

Swords  are  these  parts  of  the  loom  that  the  lay  is 
fixed  to  ;  for  power-looms,  they  are  made  of  cast  iron, 
and  are  fixed  on  the  Rocking  Shaft  which  stretches 
from  one  end  of  the  loom  to  the  other,  near  the  floor. 
The  Lay  is  bolted  on  to  the  upper  ends  of  the  swords, 
and  the  connection  rods  are  either  fixed  to  them 
or  the  lay.  The  sole  of  the  lay  is  that  part  of  wood 
or  iron  where  the  race  is  fixed  on,  and  the  shuttle  runs 
upon  the  race.  The  top  shell  is  that  part  of  the  lay 
which  holds  the  reed  by  the  top  rim,  and  the  under  rim 
of  the  reed  is  placed  in  the  under  shell,  sometimes 
named  flighter.  The  protecting  rod  is  that  round  piece 
of  iron  which  is  placed  along  the  lay,  either  below  it  or 
at  the  back.  The  box  sides  are  these  parts,  made 
either  of  wood  or  iron,  that  keeps  the  shuttles  in  their 
proper  places  at  the  end  of  the  lay,  after  they  have 
passed  through  the  shed.  The  spindle  heads  are  those 
pieces  of  iron  that  hold  the  ends  of  the  spindles 
that  are  next  to  the  Web. 


150  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

BREAST  BEAM 

Is  the  rail  in  front  of  the  loom  that  the  cloth  passes 
over  as  it  is  woven  to  the  cloth  beam.  It  is  on  this  rail 
the  self-acting  temples  are  fixed ;  by  hand-loom  weav- 
ers it  is  sometimes  called  the  slab  stock. 


PICKING  ARM,  PULLEY,  AND  CONE. 

The  picking  arms  are  those  levers  that  are  keyed  on 
the  wyper  shaft,  with  a  slit  in  them  for  the  purpose  of 
receiving  the  studs  that  carry  the  picking  pulleys ;  and 
the  picking  pulley  strikes  against  the  treadle,  lever,  or 
some  other  moveable  article  that  gives  motion  to  the 
shuttles.  Sometimes  a  bracket  of  a  particular  curve 
strikes  against  a  cone  or  small  pulley  called  a  truck, 
which  is  made  to  pick  the  shuttle. 


CAMS  OR  WYPERS. 

Wypers  are  those  pieces  of  cast  iron  of  an  eccentric 
shape  that  are  fixed  on  the  under  shaft  for  moving 
the  treadles  that  shed  the  Web,  and  the  small  cast- 
ings, with  the  pulleys  in  them,  that  are  on  the  treadles, 
are  named  the  shedding  trucks ;  the  curved  plates  used 
for  moving  the  tweeliug  treadles,  are  called  wypers 
or  cones.  Sometimes  the  picking  arms  are  named 
cams. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  151 

PICKING  STICK 

Is  the  piece  of  wood  that  has  the  shuttle  cords 
attached  to  it  for  pulling  the  picker  that  throws  the 
shuttle ;  they  are  made  of  various  lengths  and  thick- 
ness, some  of  them  round  and  others  flat. 


UPTAKING  MOTION 

Is  a  term  given  to  that  piece  of  mechanism  which 
winds  up  the  cloth  on  the  cloth  beam  when  the  loom 
is  in  the  act  of  weaving ;  one  kind  is  called  the  bell 
crank  motion,  which  does  not  take  up  the  cloth  regular, 
the  quantity  of  shots  being  regulated  by  the  weight  of 
the  pace  or  friction  put  upon  the  warp  yarn ;  the  other 
takes  up  the  cloth  uniform,  and  the  number  of  shots 
or  picks  is  regulated  by  a  pinion  named  the  change 
pinion.  This  motion  commonly  consists  of  a  connec- 
tion rod  attached  to  the  end  of  a  lever  of  the  first 
kind,  and  at  the  other  end  of  the  lever  is  a  catch  for 
driving  the  ratchet  wheel;  and  on  the  eve  of  this 
wheel  is  put  the  change  pinion  which  drives  the  spur 
wheel  on  the  end  of  the  cloth  beam.  There  is  another 
catch  that  falls  into  the  teeth  of  the  ratchet  wheel, 
which  holds  it  from  turning  back. 


152  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

GEARING. 

When  speaking  of  Gearing  in  connection  with  a 
power-loom  factory,  it  is  understood  to  consist  of,  first, 
the  main  gearing,  and  second,  the  small  gearing.  The 
main  gearing  are  the  shafts,  wheels,  brackets,  bushes, 
and  belts  that  are  between  the  engine  and  the  shafts 
in  the  flat  or  shed  with  the  drums  on  them  for  driving 
the  looms,  and  the  shafts  with  the  drums,  grounds, 
hangers,  bushes,  and  bolts,  are  what  is  called  the  small 
gearing,  although  the  shafts  may  be  both  large  and 
long. 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  153 


CHAPTER  V. 

CHECK  AND  DAMASK  POWER-LOOM. 

This  is  a  loom  which,  requires  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  machinery  and  extra  mounting,  more  than 
what  is  required  in  a  common  power-loom,  as  will  be 
seen  from  the  drawings  given.  It  is  the  most  com- 
plicate loom  that  has  yet  been  brought  out  for  fancy 
work;  and  if  the  reader  will  pay  attention  to  the 
descriptions  which  will  be  given  with  reference  to  the 
drawings,  it  will  be  easily  understood.  A  patent 
was  obtained  for  this  loom  at  the  time  when  it  was 
brought  out,  so  we  shall  first  give  the  description  as 
given  by  the  patentee,  and  then  explain  its  different 
parts  in  a  manner  that  will  enable  the  workman  to 
mount  the  loom  and  work  it. 


DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  DRAWINGS. 

Plate  I.     In  this  Plate,  Figure  1  is  a  front  view 
of  the  loom,  showing  its  connection  with  the  Jacquard 


154  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

machine,  also  a  front  view  of  the  apparatus  for  dis- 
engaging the  connection  of  that  machine  when 
required,  together  with  the  cam  barrel  and  levers  for 
working  the  heddles  in  connection  with  the  harness. 
Figure  2  shows  an  end  view  of  the  loom  with  the  cam 
and  lever  for  working  the  Jaequard  machine,  the 
supports  for  the  "stenting  rollers,"  and  other  parts. 

Plate  II.  In  this  Plate,  Figure  3  is  a  ground  plan 
of  the  entire  loom,  of  which  Figure  4  is  a  general 
section.  Figure  5  is  a  side  and  end  view  of  the  dis- 
engaging  apparatus  detached. 

Plate  III.  In  this  Plate,  Figure  6  is  a  front  view 
of  the  loom,  in  which  are  shown  the  shuttle  box  of 
the  lay,  and  the  details  of  the  apparatus  for  working 
it.     Figure  7  is  an  end  elevation  of  the  same. 

Plate  IV.  Figure  8  in  this  Plate  represents  an 
elevation  of  the  loom,  as  seen  from  the  back.     Figure 

9  is  a  general  section  shewing  the  internal  arrangement 
of  the  levers  for  working  the  shuttle  box.  &c.    Figure 

10  is  a  ground  plan.  Figure  11  is  a  vertical  section 
through  the  shuttle  box,  showing  the  gearing  by  which 
it  is  shifted.  Figure  12  exhibits  the  details  of  the 
weft  protector  detached. 

The  main  frame  of  the  loom  marked  A  is  similar  to 
that  of  other  power-looms  in  common  use.  The  motive 
power  is  communicated  to  the  working  parts  in  the 
usual  manner  by  a  band  from  a  drum  on  one  of  the 
leading  shafts  of  the  factory  passing  to  the  pulleys  B,  B, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  155 

one  of  which  is  fast  and  the  other  loose  upon  their 
common  axis  (Vz),  as  in  other  power-looms.  The 
reciprocating  motion  of  the  lay  is  derived  from  two 
cranks  on  the  pulley  shaft  (a)  by  means  of  two  con- 
necting rods  C,  C,  attached  by  pin  joints  to  the  lay 
swords  D,  D.  On  one  extremity  of  the  shaft  (a)  is 
iixed  a  wheel  E,  which  is  in  gear  with  the  wheel  F  on 
the  corresponding  extremity  of  the  second  shaft  (6). 
The  ratio  of  the  wheels  E  and  F  is  as  1  to  2,  so  that 
the  shaft  (b)  makes  exactly  one  revolution  for  every 
two  picks  or  shots  thrown.  On  the  same  shaft  (b)  is 
fixed  the  cam  or  wyper  G  which  works  the  Jacquard 
treadle  H  of  the  loom  when  employed  in  producing 
fabrics  requiring  the  use  of  that  apparatus.  The 
motion  of  the  cam  G.  is  transferred  to  the  Jacquard 
lever  I,  which  communicates  with  the  treadle  H  by 
means  of  the  small  rod  (c),  and  is  supported  by  a  stud 
on  a  bracket  J,  attached  in  any  convenient  manner 
over  the  loom.  The  action  of  these  last-mentioned 
parts  are  as  follows : — When  the  cam  G  revolves,  it 
depresses  the  treadle  H,  and  consequently  the  end  of 
the  lever  I  to  which  it  is  attached  by  the  rod  (c). 
This  action  necessarily  raises  the  opposite  end  of  the 
lever  I  in  connection  with  the  Jacquard  machine,  but 
immediately  on  the  treadle  H  being  depressed  by  the 
cam  it  is  brought  under  the  control  of  the  "  disemrau-- 
ing  apparatus,"  to  be  hereafter  described,  and  which 
keeps  it  down,  and  consequently  causes  the  Jacquard 


156  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

lever  to  maintain  its  elevated  position,  until  the 
required  number  of  picks  or  shots  pertaining  to  the 
card  of  the  machine  at  the  time  being  passed  is  thrown, 
when  the  treadle  rises,  and  the  cam  G  comes  again  into 
action.  The  treadle  II  is  made  to  project  in  front  of 
the  loom  to  enable  the  weaver  to  turn  back  the  cards 
of  the  Jacquard  machine  when  any  derangement  takes 
place,  and  it  is  required  to  open  out  any  number  of 
picks.  By  this  arrangement  the  weaver  avoids  the 
inconvenience  of  working  the  loom  empty,  that  is, 
without  weft,  for  the  purpose  of  bringing  the  proper 
card  into  position.  The  conditions  necessary  to  be 
observed  in  forming  the  cam  G  are  as  follows  : — Fir^t, 
the  part  of  the  periphery  which  comes  first  into  con- 
tact with  the  treadle  H  ought  to  have  a  curvature  of 
large  radius  so  as  to  cause  the  Jacquard  lever  I  to 
commence  its  rise  slowly,  and  gradually  accelerate  its 
motion  until  it  has  attained  half  the  required  elevation, 
when  its  motion  ought  gradually  to  decrease  until  it 
has  risen  to  the  highest  point  of  elevation  necessary. 
By  thus  regulating  the  motion  of  the  lever  any  undue 
vibration  of  the  leads  of  the  harness  is  avoided  during 
their  rise,  and  the  cards  are  less  liable  to  be  deranged 
on  the  barrel  of  the  Jacquard  machine.  "When  the 
lever  has  remained  up  during  the  time  requisite,  it  is 
again  slowly  lowered  by  the  action  of  the  cam  becom- 
ing gradually  less,  until  it  finally  ceases  to  act  upon 
the  treadle  H,  in  consequence  of  the  hollow  portion 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  157 

of  its  periphery  being  brought  opposite  to  the  point 
of  contact  with  the  treadle.  The  succeeding  lift  is 
regulated  in  the  same  manner  as  above  described.  To 
regulate  the  number  of  shots  or  picks  on  the  cards  of 
the  Jacquard  machine,  the  following  arrangement  is 
adopted : — A  small  pinion  (a)  on  the  shaft  (b)  gives 
motion  to  the  wheel  (V),  formed  with  a  hollow  project- 
ing boss  on  which  is  fixed  a  change  pinion  (/),  gearing 
with  the  wheel  (17),  carrying  one,  two,  three,  or  more 
small  studs,  as  the  pattern  may  require.  On  these 
studs  are  carried  the  small  friction  pulleys  (h,  h .  .  .) 
which  cornino-  round  on  the  under  side  act  on  the  lever 

o 

(t),  causing  one  extremity  of  it  to  descend.  In  this 
extremity  is  a  hole  through  which  a  cord  is  made  fast, 
and  which  communicates  with  the  bell  crank  lever  (j). 
The  purpose  of  this  is  to  keep  the  treadle  H  depressed 
when  the  cam  G  has  acted  upon  it;  and  again,  when 
the  lever  (i)  is  pressed  down,  it  necessarily  pulls  the 
cord  attached  to  the  bell  crank  lever,  and  takes  this 
out  of  contact  with  the  treadle  H,  at  the  instant  the 
cam  G  begins  to  act  upon  it,  thereby  letting  down  the 
needles  of  the  Jacquard  machine  with  the  same  kind 
of  gradual  motion  as  they  were  raised.  When  the 
machine  is  ready  to  take  another  lift,  the  small  spring 
(7e)  by  contracting  pulls  the  bell  crank  lever  (j)  into 
contact  with  the  treadle  H,  and  the  action  proceeds 
as  before  described. 

The  mode  of  working  the  heddles  may  be  understood 


158  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OP 

from  the  following  description  in  reference  to  the 
Drawings: — A  shaft  carrying  a  series  of  cam  plates 
(marked  L)  is  driven  from  the  shaft  (6)  by  a  bevil 
pinion  (/)  gearing  with  the  bevil  wheel  (m).  The 
ratio  of  this  pair  of  wheels  is  properly  adjusted  to  the 
tweel  which  is  required  to  be  put  upon  the  cloth  at 
the  time  worked.  The  cams  are  so  formed  and  set  in 
relation  to  each  other  that  the  heddle  leaves  all  stand 
steadily  in  one  position,  except  the  two  leaves  in  action 
at  the  particular  time.  The  projection  marked  1  on 
the  cams  is  for  sinking  the  heddle  leaves,  and  that 
marked  2  is  for  raising  them,  while  the  circular  parts 
marked  3  are  for  keeping  those  leaves  steady  which 
are  out  of  action.  These  cams  are  so  pitched  or  set 
as  to  work  in  unison  with  each  other  and  with  the 
Jacquard  machine  and  the  lay  D1  while  the  loom  is  in 
action.  When  the  point  1  comes  round  to  the  part 
of  the  treadle  at  4,  it  causes  the  treadle  (u)  to  descend 
at  the  point,  and  the  cord  marked  5  being  attached 
to  the  extremity  of  the  treadle  (V),  and  also  to  the 
heddles  (marked  o),  it  makes  the  shed  downwards; 
and  the  treadle  (u1)  being  acted  upon  simultaneously 
with  the  treadle  (w),  and  the  cords  marked  G  being 
attached  to  the  contiguous  extremities  of  the  upper 
levers  (j)),  these  extremities  are  depressed  by  the 
action  of  the  cords  when  pulled  ;  but  the  levers  being 
suspended  on  an  axis  at  or  near  the  middle  of  their 
length,  the  depression  at  one  end  is  necessarily  accom- 


THE  AKT  OF  WEAVING.  159 

panied  by  the  corresponding  elevation  of  the  contrary 
end,  which  being  attached  by  cords  to  the  heddle 
leaves,  the  effect  is  to  cause  those  acted  upon  to  shed 
upwards,  and  the  other  heddles  being  connected  in 
the  same  manner,  the  cams  to  which  they  are  respect- 
ively related  retain  them  in  a  middle  position,  neither 
up  nor  down,  until  by  the  motion  of  the  common  axis 
of  the  cam  barrel  L  they  are  brought  into  action,  and 
those  previously  engaged  thrown  idle.  This  arrange- 
ment of  parts,  and  the  motions  above  described,  are 
principally  adapted  to  working  two,  three,  four,  five, 
or  six  thread  harness  more  or  less,  as  may  be  required, 
and  can  be  applied  to  work  four,  five,  six,  seven,  eight, 
nine,  or  ten  heddle  leaves,  and  the  advantage  of  it  is 
that  the  cams  keep  the  idle  leaves  steady  when  the 
others  are  shedding.  The  tweeling  cams  may  be 
formed  of  simple  plates  cut  to  the  required  shape,  or 
they  may  be  formed  with  loose  marginal  pieces  made 
to  fit  upon  permanent  centres.  They  may  also  be 
formed  with  rollers  at  the  projections  marked  1  and  2. 
The  stenting  rollers  (q),  shown  in  Figures  2,  3,  and  4, 
are  carried  in  bearings  acted  upon  by  springs,  to  allow 
the  yarn  to  yield,  yet  remain  tight  when  the  heddles 
or  harness  is  acting,  without  subjecting  it  to  unneces- 
sary strain,  which  it  would  be  were  no  such  provision 
made  for  its  stretch  when  the  heddles  are  shedding. 
There  is  one  of  these  rollers  for  every  leaf  in  the  set 
of  heddles  employed,  and  the  springs  marked  (r)  are 


160  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

so  adjusted  in  tension  as  to  keep  the  yarn  at  the 
degree  of  tightness  required  for  putting  on  the  requisite 
number  of  shots  or  picks  on  a  given  length  of  the  warp 
yarn.  In  the  Figures  referred  to  above,  the  arrange- 
ment of  parts  is  adapted  to  a  five-leaved  set  of  heddles, 
but  may  be  extended  to  any  number,  more  or  less,  as 
may  be  required  for  the  particular  kind  of  fabric  to 
be  woven ;  the  yarn  passing  through  the  eyes  of  the 
heddles  of  any  particular  leaf  passes  over  one  of  the 
rollers,  and  that  particular  roller  yields  to  the  yarn 
when  the  leaf  of  heddles  through  which  it  passes  is 
forming  a  shed,  producing  a  similar  effect  as  if  the 
yarn  were  elastic  in  itself.  The  brackets  (s)  carrying 
the  rollers  and  springs  are  fixed  on  the  two  side 
frames  of  the  loom  in  any  convenient  manner.  The 
yarn  beam  M,  the  pace  pulleys  (tf),  the  pace  weights 
N,  the  picking  treadle  O,  the  picking  stick  P,  are 
similar  and  similarly  applied  as  in  other  power-looms. 
I  will  now  describe  the  selvage  protector,  the  use  of 
which  is  to  prevent  the  warp  yarn  from  being  broken 
by  the  weft  shot  drawing  it  too  tightly.  The  small 
pins  (u)  at  each  side  of  the  web,  work  up  and  dovm 
alternately,  each  being  down  for  the  shot,  on  that  side 
from  which  the  shuttle  is  thrown.  The  two  cams  (y) 
on  the  shaft  (6),  (see  Figures  8,  9,  and  10,)  are  formed 
with  recesses  to  allow  the  levers  (w)  to  fall.  These 
last  are  fixed  in  brackets  at  the  back  rail  of  the  loom, 
and  the  small  pulleys  marked  6  in  the  levers  (w)  lift 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  161 

the  levers  (x)  which  are  suspended  on  axes  at  (?/),  so 
that  when  the  recesses  in  the  cams  successively  come 
round,  they  allow  the  pins  (w)  to  fall  into  position  at 
the  selvage,  taking  hold  of  the  selvage  threads,  and 
the  weft  of  the  successive  picks  turns  upon  them,  thus 
preventing  all  unnecessary  strain  on  the  selvage  yarn. 
The  cams  are  so  made  and  set  in  relation  to  the 
movements  of  the  loom,  that  whenever  the  shuttle  is 
in  the  box  of  the  lay  at  the  contrary  side,  the  pins  (u) 
rise  out  of  contact  with  the  yarn,  and  move  slightly 
back  to  allow  the  lay  to  drive  up  the  weft  shot  to  the 
fell  of  the  cloth  without  touching  the  pins. 

I  will  now  describe  the  apparatus  for  working  the 
shuttle  box  Q,  when  three  or  more  shuttles  are  em- 
ployed for  the  purpose  of  putting  in  different  kinds  of 
weft  into  the  web.  The  Drawings  marked  Plates  III. 
and  IV.  show  an  arrangement  for  six  shuttles,  and 
the  mechanism  is  so  constructed  and  adapted  that  any 
number  of  shots  of  one  kind  of  weft  from  two  upwards, 
may  be  thrown  in  any  order  whatever  of  the  shuttles 
answering  to  the  particular  pattern  to  be  woven. 
When  the  box  Q  is  to  be  shifted  to  change  the  shuttle, 
one  of  the  cords  marked  7  attached  to  a  spring  marked 
8  is  pulled  up  by  the  Jacquard  machine,  and  this  cord 
being  attached  to  one  of  the  bell  crank  levers  (z), 
provided  with  a  toothed  segment  at  one  extremity, 
makes  the  small  tumbler  (a1)  to  rise  in  its  place  in  the 
lever  or  treadle  R,  and  this  tumbler  (a1)  being  move- 


162  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

able  on  a  centre  in  the  treadle,  when  the  cam  S  on 
the  shaft  (b)  comes  round,  and  depresses  the  treadle, 
the  two  chains  at  its  extremity  are  so  adjusted  as  to 
act  upon  the  pulleys  (&1)  to  which  they  are  attached 
on  the  rod  T.  On  this  rod  are  also  two  wheels  (c1,  c1,) 
gearing  with  the  racks  (dl,  d\)  see  Figure  11,  which 
cause  the  box  to  shift  to  the  position  required.  Im- 
mediately on  this  being  effected,  the  cam  S  passes  over 
the  tumbler  (a1),  and  touching  the  bell  crank  {z)1 
throws  it  back,  thereby  causing  the  tumbler  to  fall 
into  its  place  in  the  lever  R,  and  so  on  for  every  sub- 
sequent shift  of  the  shuttle  box.  Every  shuttle  has 
its  own  lever,  tumbler,  and  pulley ;  and  the  cam  S 
making  one  revolution  for  every  two  shots  thrown,  it 
is  always  ready  to  shift  the  box  Q  to  whatever  position 
the  Jacquard  machine  shall  indicate.  To  this  end  the 
pattern  must  previously  be  all  completely  arranged 
upon  the  cards  of  the  Jacquard  machine.  The  shaft 
T  is  supported  in  bearing,  attached  to  the  swords  of 
the  lay,  and  therefore  partakes  of  their  reciprocating 
motion.  I  wish  it  also  to  be  observed  that  the  treadles 
or  levers  being  each  attached  by  two  chains,  one  on 
each  side  of  the  pulley  (61)  of  that  treadle,  they  can 
every  one  act  independently  of  the  others.  That  the 
box  Q  may  shift  freely,  the  cam  U  on  the  shaft  (b)  is  so 
pitched  as  to  allow  the  small  pulleys  marked  9  to  come 
out  of  the  notches  in  the  racks  (d\  dl.)  When  the 
box  has  been  shifted  to  its  proper  position,  the  cam  U 


TIIE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  163 

turns  its  full  side  to  the  pulley  and  the  lever  W,  and 
pulling  the  connecting  rod  (c1),  which  is  flexibly 
attached  to  the  small  horizontal  lever  (/*)  at  the 
bottom  of  the  lay  sword,  it  causes  the  upright  lever 
(g1),  centred  on  or  near  the  middle  of  its  length,  to 
act  upon  the  spiral  spring  (A1),  which,  pulling  the  frame 
carrying  the  small  pulleys  marked  9  into  the  notches 
of  the  racks  (d\  dl)}  holds  the  box  firmly  in  its  proper 
place  until  the  instant  for  shifting  again  arrives.  The 
reason  for  having  all  the  levers  working  at  the  rocking- 
tree  shaft  X  is,  that  at  that  point  there  is  the  least 
motion  of  the  lay.  The  weight  of  the  shuttle  box  is 
counterpoised  by  the  weight  Y,  to  render  it  more  easily 
shifted.  The  weight  is  suspended  by  a  cord  or  chain 
from  the  top  of  the  box  passing  over  the  pulley  Z  ;  and 
to  prevent  the  motion  of  the  lay  from  communicating 
to  it  a  swinging  motion,  it  is  controlled  by  a  small  guide 
rod  attached  to  the  contiguous  sword  of  the  lay.  The 
protecting  rod  (i1),  shown  at  the  back  of  the  lay  in 
Figure  8,  is  similar  to  that  in  other  power-looms. 

I  will  now  describe  the  mode  of  stopping  the  loom, 
when  it  happens  from  any  cause  during  its  working, 
that  the  shuttle  driver  is  not  taken  back  to  its  proper 
position,  it  being  understood  that  the  driver  or  picker 
(kl)  ought  always  to  be  back  when  the  box  is  shifted, 
to  touch  the  small  curved  lever  (j1)  shown  in  front  of 
the  shuttle  box  Q,  and  send  that  end  of  it  back  also. 
The  effect  of  this  is  to  raise  the  other  end  of  the  lever, 


164  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  CP 

and  consequently  the  lifter  (/),  clear  of  the  frog ;  but 
when  any  derangement  occurs  to  prevent  the  driver 
from  getting  back,  the  lifter  is  not  raised,  but  striking 
on  the  frog  or  moveable  catch  (m1),  this  last  is  brought 
into  action  upon  the  upright  lever  (n1),  and  pushing  it 
forward  transfers  the  motion  along  the  rod  A1  in  front 
of  the  loom  to  the  opposite  end,  at  which  is  the  lever 
(o1)  connected  with  the  handle  B1  for  stopping  the  loom. 
To  secure  the  correct  shifting  of  the  shuttle  box,  before 
picking  the  first  shot  of  the  shuttle  shifted  to,  an  appar- 
atus called  the  protector  is  provided,  the  character  and 
action  of  which  may  be  understood  from  the  following 
description  with  reference  to  the  Drawings.  The  small 
pulleys  marked  9  on  the  brackets  V,  enter  the  notches 
of  the  racks  (d1,  dl),  when  the  box  Q  is  in  its  proper 
position,  and  the  bracket  V  pressing  on  one  end  of 
the  lever  (j?1),  at  the  [back  of  the  shuttle  box,  causes 
the  other  end  to  press  on  the  rod  descending  from  the 
back  tongue  of  the  protector,  and  lifts  it  over  the  notch 
of  the  frog  (ml)  (see  Figure  7);  but  if  not  lifted,  the 
tongue  (ln)  strikes  the  frog  when  the  lay  is  going  back, 
and  a  pin  in  the  frog  pushes  the  lever  (ql)  back,  and 
this  being  in  connection  with  the  lever  (n1)  and  the  rod 
or  shaft  A1,  pulls  the  handle  B1,  and  stops  the  loom. 

The  weft  protector,  which  I  now  proceed  to  describe, 
is  similar  to  that  in  common  use  on  the  side  of  the  loom 
contiguous  to  the  driving  pulleys  B,  B ;  but  it  is  also 
applied  at  the  side  of  this  loom  where  the  shifting 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


TIIE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  165 

shuttle  box  is  situated,  to  allow  the  loom  being 
stopped  whenever  any  of  the  weft  shots  fail.  To  accom- 
plish this,  I  employ  an  apparatus  of  the  kind  depicted  in 
the  Drawings,  and  which  may  be  understood  from  the 
following  description : — A  frame  (y1)  is  fixed  to  the 
sword  of  the  lay  on  that  side  at  which  the  protector  is 
to  be  applied,  and  in  this  frame  is  a  lever  (sl)  carrying 
a  small  fork  at  its  extremity  for  lifting  the  weft  of  the 
idle  shuttles  out  of  the  way  of  the  weft  stopper  forks 
(tl.)  The  lever  S1  is  lifted  by  a  wyper  or  cam  C1,  on 
the  shaft  (b),  and  allows  the  shuttle  to  pass  below  it 
from  the  single  side  of  the  lay.  After  it  has  nassed 
into  the  box  Q  the  wyper  E1  acts  upon  the  hanging 
lever  (vx),  which  pulls  the  lever  (iu1)  hung  upon  the 
frame  (r1)  or  sword  of  the  lay.  This  lever  is  provided 
with  a  friction  pulley,  and  being  pulled  back  d/sengages 
the  small  wires  holding  up  the  threads  of  weft,  and 
allows  them  to  fall  to  the  race  of  the  lay,  when  the 
wyper  C1  acting  upon  the  lever  (v1)  allows  the  lever  (S1) 
to  fall  to  the  bottom  of  the  slit  provided  for  it  in  the 
race  of  the  lay.  This  done,  the  wyper  E1  allows  the 
spring  or  weight  (xx)  to  pull  the  lever  (.s-1)  with  its  fork 
under  the  weft  shots,  when  the  shuttle  has  passed  to  the 
single  side  of  the  lay,  and  thus  lifts  all  the  weft  shots 
by  the  wyper  C1  acting  on  the  lever  (V),  as  before 
described.  When  the  weft  of  any  shuttle  is  run  out  or 
breaks,  the  fork  (tl)  is  not  lifted,  and  the  arm  F1  on  the 
shaft  (6)  acts  in  consequence  upon  the  lever  (yl)}  and 


166  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

thereby  communicates  motion  to  the  hauling  catch  (zl), 
which  pulling  the  lever  G1  pushes  forward  the  upright 
lever  (nl),  and  this  acting  upon  the  handle  of  the  loom 
stops  it,  in  the  same  manner  as  the  other  proctectors 
before  described. 

Having  thus  described  the  nature  of  my  Invention, 
and  the  means  emploved  by  me  for  carrying  the  same 
into  effect,  I  would  have  it  understood  that  I  do  not 
confine  myself  to  the  details  shown  and  described,  so 
long  as  the  peculiar  character  of  any  part  or  parts  of 
my  Invention  is  retained.     But  what  I  claim  is, — 

Firstly,  the  particular  shape  or  form  of  the  cam  or 
wyper  G  on  the  shaft  (6)  for  working  the  Jacquard 
machine. 

Secondly,  the  form  and  position  of  the  treadle  H, 
whereby  it  is  made  to  project  in  front  of  the  loom,  for 
the  purpose  of  enabling  the  weaver  to  work  the  Jacquard 
machine  independently  of  the  loom. 

Thirdly,  the  peculiar  apparatus  for  disengaging  the 
Jacquard  machine. 

Fourthly,  the  application  of  a  series  of  cams  or  other 
like  mechanism  for  steadying  the  idle  heddle  leaves 
when  the  other  leaves  are  working  or  in  action. 

Fifthly,  the  application  of  what  I  have  called  stenting 
rollers  for  keeping  the  yarn  at  proper  tension,  at  the 
same  time  that  it  is  allowed  to  yield  to  the  working 
heddle  loaves. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  1G7 

Sixthly,  the  apparatus  depicted  and  described  under 
the  name  of  selvage  protector. 

Seventhly,  the  mode  of  working  the  shuttle  box  when 
three  or  more  shuttles  are  employed. 

Eighthly,  the  mode  of  applying  apparatus  to  stop  the 
loom  from  the  double  box  side  of  the  lay  when  the  weft 
fails. 

Ninthly,  the  mode  of  stopping  the  loom  when  the 
shuttle  driver  is  not  taken  sufficiently  back.     And, 

Tenthly,  the  mode  of  stopping  the  loom  when  the 
shuttle  box  is  not  properly  shifted. 


168  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

TO  MOUNT  A  HARNESS  LOOM. 

The  first  thing  that  should  be  learned  about  Damask 
Weaving,  is  designing  the  Patterns;  indeed,  this  is 
required  for  all  kinds  of  figured  weaving,  and  a  great 
deal  depends  upon  the  selection  of  the  patterns,  but 
more  will  be  said  about  this  under  another  head  ;  the 
remarks  here  will  be  confined  to  what  is  required  for 
the  Mounting  and  Starting  of  a  Harness  Loom. 

The  figure  to  be  woven  is  first  painted  on  design 
paper  (see  design  paper),  which  must  be  of  the  proper 
proportion  for  the  warp  and  weft,  and  the  card-cutter 
cuts  the  cards  from  this  pain  ling;  also  the  weaver  or 
harness  tyer.  finds  the  number  of  tail  cords  that  will 
be  required  for  the  pattern  from  this  paper.  After 
the  quantity  of  tails  are  found  that  will  make  the 
harness,  the  workmen  will  require  the  following 
articles  before  he  proceeds  to  mount  it. 


MAILS 

Are  in  general  made  out  of  sheet  copper  of  an 
oblong  shape,  with  three  holes  in  them,  and  they 
answer  the  same  purpose  as  the  eyes  of  heddles,  the 
warp  of  the  Web  being  drawn  through  the  centre  hole. 
They  are  made  in  a  variety  of  shapes  and  sizes  to  suit 
the  kind  of  work  they  are  used  for. 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  169 

LEADS 

Are  from  seven  to  twelve  inches  long,  and  may  be 
made  by  casting  small  rods,  and  then  drawing  them 
in  the  same  manner  as  iron  wire,  through  holes  of 
different  diameters,  until  the  proper  size  is  got ;  they 
are  used  as  weights  in  the  harness,  and  are  connected 
with  twine  to  the  mails.  The  weight  of  the  leads  to 
be  employed  will  depend  upon  the  weight  of  the  work 
they  have  to  do ;  for  a  full  harness  and  light  work, 
they  may  be  made  as  light  as  to  have  about  one  hundred 
of  them  in  the  pound,  but  the  weight  of  them  must 
be  increased  in  proportion  to  the  weight  of  cloth. 
For  a  split  or  four  thread  (if  not  a  pressure  one)  har- 
ness, about  thirty  in  the  pound  will  do,  but  if  it  be 
a  four  or  five  thread  pressure  harness,  such  as  is  used 
for  table-covers,  etc.  etc.,  then  they  will  recpuire  to  be 
as  heavy  as  to  have  only  ten  to  sixteen  in  the  pound. 
The  leads  in  the  centre  of  a  AYeb  may  be  lighter  than 
those  at  the  border,  as  their  action  is  more  direct,  and 
with  gathered  ties,  the  leads  can  always  be  used  lighter 
than  in  those  that  are  not  gathered. 


HARNESS  TWINE. 
This  Twine  is  used  for  tying  the  leads  to  the  mails, 
and  forming  what  is  called  the  Sleepers,  and  Neck  of 
the  Harness.    It  should  be  made  from  some  substance 

T 


170  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

that  has  little  or  no  elasticity  in  it,  at  the  same  time 
flexible ;  it  is  generally  made  from  flax  yarn,  with  as 
many  threads  twisted  together  as  will  make  the  twine 
up  to  the  strength  that  will  be  required  for  the  kind 
of  work  that  is  to  be  woven.  For  full  harnesses  with 
light  work  there  is  no  use  in  putting  in  twine  heavier 
than  six  ply  of  eighteens,  as  it  would  be  adding  expense 
to  the  mounting  for  no  purpose  ;  but  when  the  harness 
is  a  pressure  one,  with  four  or  five  threads  in  the  mail, 
and  with  leads,  that  each  one  will  weigh  two  ounces, 
then  the  twine  requires  to  be  very  strong,  and  this 
strength  can  only  be  got  by  putting  in  more  plies  of 
yarn.  At  the  sides  of  broad  Webs,  the  harness  twine 
undergoes  a  great  deal  more  friction  than  in  the  centre, 
and  it  might  be  profitable  to  use  two  sizes  of  twine, 
putting  the  lightest  in  the  centre.  However,  much 
of  this  must  be  left  to  the  discretion  of  the  manager 
or  workman. 


SLABSTOCK. 

The  Slabstock  is  a  piece  of  wood  about  six  inches 
longer  than  the  loom  is  broad,  it  is  five  or  six  inches 
broad,  and  one  inch  thick,  with  a  grove  made  on  the 
edge  of  it,  for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  ends  of  the 
mails,  when  the  harness  is  being  tied.  The  use  of  the 
slabstock  will  appear  in  the  explanation  given  for 
mounting  the  loom. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  171 

HARNESS  OR  HOLE  BOARD. 

The  Hole  Board  is  made  of  plane-tree  wood,  or 
some  other  hard,  smooth  material,  and  is  made 
as  long  as  the  loom  is  broad.  For  a  full  harness,  the 
hole  board  must  have  at  least  as  many  holes  in  it  as 
there  are  threads  in  the  Web  that  is  to  be  woven,  but 
they  are  scarcely  ever  made  so  as  just  to  be  the  same 
set  as  the  reed,  because  each  part  in  the  harness  should 
begin  with  a  full  row  in  the  board.  Suppose  the  tye 
to  be  360,  and  the  board  bored  with  eight  holes  in  the 
row,  this  tye  would  fill  exactly  45  rows,  and  the  reed 
and  hole  board  might  be  the  same  set ;  but  if  the  tye 
was  350,  it  would  fill  forty  three  rows  and  six  holes  ; 
this  would  leave  two  holes  empty  in  each  part ;  conse- 
quently, it  would  require  the  hole  board  to  be  finer  than 
the  reed.  In  fancy  work  there  is  always  many  changes, 
and  manufacturers  find  it  better  to  have  the  hole  boards 
made  fine  in  the  set,  and  when  a  coarser  set  is  required 
than  what  the  hole  board  is,  they  order  so  many  holes 
to  be  left  empty,  in  the  same  manner  as  heddles  are 
set  when  they  are  finer  than  the  reed.  The  rows  of 
holes  run  in  oblique  lines  across  the  board,  and  that 
obliqueness  depends  upon  the  fineness  of  the  set; 
in  fine  boards  each  row  of  holes  embosom  each  other, 
to  keep  them  from  being  too  much  crowded,  and  that 
the  mails  may  stand  as  near  as  possible  opposite  to  their 
respective  intervals  of  the  reed.     In  a  full  harness 


172  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

where  two  threads  are  put  in  one  split  of  the  reed,  the 
two  mails  should  just  take  the  same  space  as  one  split, 
and  when  four  threads  are  in  one  mail,  it  should  take 
up  the  space  of  two  splits,  and  so  on,  in  proportion  to 
the  quantity  of  threads  in  one  mail. 

Hole  boards  used  to  be  made  by  dividing  them  off 
with  a  pair  of  compasses,  and  was  a  matter  of  taste  as 
to  the  number  of  holes  in  the  rows  across  the  board, 
but  now  they  are  made  by  machinery,  and  in  general 
have  eight  holes  in  the  row,  and  can  be  divided  to 
have  holes  to  suit  any  reed,  as  the  apparatus  for 
dividing  the  board  is  almost  the  same  as  what  is  used 
by  the  reed  makers  for  regulating  the  set  of  the  reed. 


STANDERS 

Are  articles  which  are  required  for  holding  the 
Slabstock  in  its  proper  place  in  the  loom,  when  the 
harness  is  being  tied  up.  They  are  either  made  of 
iron  or  wood,  about  three  or  four  inches  broad,  with 
a  slit  in  the  side  of  them,  as  wide  as  to  allow  the  slab- 
stock  to  get  in. 

TO  PREPARE  THE  HARNESS. 
The  first  thing  is  Stringing  the  Leads  (the  name 
given  to  this  operation),  and  it  is  in  general  done  by 
children.     The  flax  yarn  used  for  this  purpose  is  cut 


THE  AUT  OF  WEAVING.  173 

into  pieces  called  hangers,  in  lengths  about  twelve  or 
fourteen  inches  long,  and  laid  on  a  small  bench  or 
tabic  opposite  the  operator ;  the  mails  and  leads  are 
also  put  on  this  bench.  The  person  takes  one  lead 
with  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  right  hand  puts  the 
hanger  through  the  hole  in  the  end  of  it,  and  then 
through  the  under  hole  in  the  mail;  the  two  ends  of 
the  twine  are  then  tied  together,  and  hung  on  a  rod 
with  the  mail  uppermost ;  this  operation  is  repeated 
until  there  is  a  sufficient  quantity  of  leads  and  mails 
strung  to  make  the  harness.  They  are  now  taken  off 
the  rods  in  handfulls,  by  slipping  the  hand  between 
the  legs  of  the  hangers,  and  allowing  the  leads  to  hang 
down,  and  are  in  this  position  put  on  the  slabstock, 
and  spread  along  it. 

The  next  thing  that  is  required  is  a  piece  of  flat 
wire,  a  little  longer  than  the  harness  is  broad,  which 
may  be  got  from  any  reed  maker,  and  on  which  the 
mails  are  placed  one  by  one;  the  mails  will  now  be  all 
right  above  the  grove  in  the  slabstock,  with  their  top 
eyes  above  the  flat  wire.  The  slabstock  with  the  leads 
and  mails  are  now  put  into  a  frame  like  the  letter  H, 
which  is  made  of  wood,  the  ends  of  it  going  into  slits 
that  are  made  in  the  sides  of  the  frame  for  that  purpose. 
The  slabstock  is  moved  up  towards  the  cross  bar  in 
the  frame,  and  when  it  and  the  cross  bar  are  about 
fourteen  inches  apart,  and  parallel  with  each  other,  it 
is  iixed  in  that  place,  for  the  harness  to  be  what  some 


174  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

weavers  denominate  "cast,"  which  is,  connecting  the 
mails  to  the  sleepers.  Sleepers  are  made  from  the 
same  kind  of  yarn  as  the  hangers,  in.  the  following 
manner : — The  yarn  is  first  wound  on  bobbins,  and 
one  of  these  bobbins  with  the  yarn  on  it  is  placed  at 
the  side  of  the  frame  upon  a  wire  or  spindle.  The 
boy  or  girl,  or  whoever  is  to  cast  the  harness,  takes 
the  end  of  the  yarn  that  is  on  the  bobbin  and  puts  it 
through  the  eye  of  a  common  neeedle,  and  goes  to  the 
opposite  end  of  the  frame  where  the  casting  should 
begin ;  the  needle  is  now  put  through  the  top  eyes  of 
fifty  or  sixty  of  the  mails  and  the  twine  drawn  along 
with  it.  After  this  is  done,  the  end  of  the  twine  is 
taken  out  of  the  needle,  and  fixed  to  a  nail  or  wire  that 
is  in  the  cross  bar  of  the  frame.  These  nails  should 
be  arranged  along  the  cross  bar,  not  more  than  four 
or  five  inches  from  each  other,  to  prevent  unnecessary 
loss  of  twine. 

The  caster  now  takes  a  piece  of  small  wire,  or  draw- 
point,  and  inserts  it  in  between  the  end  mail  and  the 
one  next  it,  below  the  harness  twine,  and  lifts  the  har- 
ness twine  up  to  the  nail  in  the  cross  bar.  The  draw- 
point  is  next  inserted  in  between  the  second  and  third 
mail,  and  the  twine  put  upon  the  nail  as  before,  and 
so  on  with  the  remainder  of  the  mails  that  the  sleeper 
twine  has  been  put  through,  till  finished.  The  fore- 
going operation  is  continued  until  the  harness  is  all 
cast,     It  will  be  evident  that  in  winding  the  yarn  on 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  175 

the  bobbins,  it  will  not  do  to  have  any  knots  on  the 

twine,  as  they  would  not  pass  through  the  eyes  of 

the  mails.     The  next  thing  is  to  take  the  sleepers  off 

the  wires,  and  cut  them  in  the  exact  place  where  the 

wires  were  in. 

Now  that  the  harness  is  cast,  the  next  process  is  to 

draw  the  sleepers  through  the  holes  in  the  harness 

board ;  and  for  illustration,  we  will  suppose  the  tye 

to  be  a  400,  the  Web  to  be  put  in  a  1200  reed,  and  the 

yarn  to  fill  as  near  as  possible  38  inches  of  the  reed. 

As  will  be  seen  from  the  table  of  splits  in  a  Web, 

that  there  is  1232 '43   splits  in  a  1200  38  inch,  which 

will  make,   with   2  threads  in  the  split,  2464  ends 

(keeping  out  the  fraction)  in  the  warp  of  the  Web ; 

take  off  1G  ends  for  selvages,  and  the  number  will  be 

2428,  which  is  divided  by  the  tye,  namely, — 

400)2428(6  times  over. 
2400 


28 
This  G  times  over,  means  that  the  tye  in  this  Web 
is  repeated  6  times,  and  there  is  28  ends  over,  which 
must  be  left  out,  unless  the  pattern  be  very  small,  but 
in  this  instance,  the  whole  400  is  required  to  complete 
the  pattern  ;  therefore,  the  28  ends  are  left  out,  which 
-will  make  the  Web  about  three-eights  of  an  inch 
narrower.  This  quantity,  2400,  represents  the  num- 
ber of  sleepers  that  are  to  be  taken  through  the 
harness  board,  and  the  holes  in  the  board  must  be 


176  THEORY  AND  PEACTICE  OF 

divided  off,  so  as  the  harness  will  occupy  exactly  37| 
inches,  the  space  that  will  be  filled  in  the  reed  by  the 
warp  of  the  Web.  After  the  holes  in  the  board  have 
been  marked  that  are  to  be  filled,  it  is  hung  up  a  little 
above  the  slabstock.  If  the  person  who  is  to  draw 
the  sleepers  into  the  board  be  standing  in  front,  the 
drawing  must  begin  at  the  left  hand  side,  with  the 
back  hole  in  the  board ;  there  being  8  holes  in  each 
cross  row  of  the  board,  the  tye  will  fill  50  rows,  and 
it  being  G  times  repeated,  as  stated  before,  the  harness 
will  fill  300  rows  exactly ;  but  if  the  tye  had  not 
divided  by  the  number  of  holes  in  a  roAv  (viz.  8), 
but  left  a  few  holes  in  the  last  row  of  the  repeat,  these 
holes  must  remain  empty,  as  every  repeat  of  the  tye 
must  begin  with  a  full  row. 

The  harness  board,  with  slabstock,  mails,  leads,  and 
sleepers,  are  now  taken  to  the  loom,  and  placed  in  the 
position  as  seen  at  (c),in  Plate  III,  Figure  7,  which 
is  an  end  view  of  a  power-loom,  with  a  full  harness ; 
(figure  6  being  the  front  view  of  the  same),  as  will  be 
observed,  it  is  very  near  the  front  of  the  loom ;  indeed, 
a  common  full  harness  should  be  as  near  to  the  back 
of  the  lay  as  just  to  be  clear  of  it,  when  it  is  full  back. 
If  the  harness  is  to  be  put  up  in  a  loom  that  has  got 
no  arrangements  in  it  for  allowing  the  harness  board 
and  jacquard  machine  to  be  shifted,  after  the  harness 
is  tied,  the  harness  board  in  this  case  must  be  firmly 
fixed  in  its  place,  not  to  be  shifted,  after  the  harness 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  177 

is  tied,  in  any  direction  Avhatever.  And  although 
there  are  arrangements  made  in  power-looms  for  shift- 
ing the  jacquard  machine  and  harness  board  to  any 
position  that  may  be  required,  still  it  is  better  to  have 
them  as  near  as  possible  fixed  in  their  place  where 
they  are  to  remain  when  the  loom  is  at  work.  To  find 
the  proper  height  for  the  mails,  the  lay  is  placed  half 
way  back,  and  a  small  straight  edge  put  across  the  race, 
with  the  end  of  it  projecting  as  far  back  as  to  reach 
the  slabstock ;  the  under  edge  of  the  straight  edge 
where  it  crosses  the  top  of  the  slabstock  is  the  proper 
height  for  the  mails,  the  slabstock  being  fixed  in 
brackets  which  are  bolted  to  the  sides  of  the  loom ; 
the  mails  can  be  brought  to  their  position  by  shift- 
ing these  brackets  up  or  down.  After  the  slabstock 
is  secured  in  its  proper  place,  the  hole  board  is  next 
fixed  in  its  place,  which  is  about  seven  inches  above 
the  top  edge  of  the  slabstock,  thus  allowing  the  sleepers 
to  be  about  eight  inches  above  the  hole  board,  and 
about  seven  below.  The  harness  tyer  now  takes  pieces 
of  cord  and  ties  them  round  the  slabstock  at  a  distance 
of  three  or  four  inches  from  each  other,  for  the  purpose 
of  keeping  the  flat  wire  with  the  mails  on  it  close  down 
to  the  slabstock  during  the  time  that  the  harness  is  being 
tied.  When  this  is  done,  the  sleepers  are  gathered 
into  bunches,  with  four  hundred  in  each  bunch,  and  a 
piece  of  string  put  round  them  to  keep  each  four  hundred 
distinct.     The  jacquard  machine  is  now  set  in  its  proper 


178  THEOEY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

position,  which  is  right  above  the  centre  of  the  harness 
board.  The  usual  method  for  placing  the  jacquard 
machine  is,  to  take  one  of  the  leads  and  attach  a  piece 
of  harness  twine  to  it,  and  hang  it  to  one  of  the  cords 
in  the  centre  of  the  machine,  which  is  then  shifted  till 
once  the  lead  is  exactly  above  the  centre  of  the  harness 
board. 

The  harness  is  now  ready  for  beating  and  tying  up, 
and  the  most  expeditious  way  to  do  it  is  to  have  two 
or  three  persons  to  leaf  the  harness,  and  one  to  tie  it, 
which  is  done  in  the  following  manner: — Having 
ascertained  the  length  of  the  neck  twine  (which  is  the 
twine  that  connects  the  sleeper  to  the  tail  cords  in  the 
jacquard  machine),  and  supposing  them  to  be  five  feet 
long,  a  piece  of  wood,  such  as  a  heddle  shaft,  is  taken, 
and  two  pins  put  into  it,  two-and-a-half  feet  apart,  and 
the  twine  is  reeled  on  to  the  pins  for  the  neck,  which 
will  give  the  length  required,  by  cutting  it  in  the  centre. 
Each  person  who  is  to  beat  the  harness,  gets  a  quantity 
of  this  twine  and  knots  it  to  the  sleepers,  beginning 
with  the  back  hole  in  the  row  on  each  part  ;  and  suppose 
there  are  only  two  beaters,  each  will  hand  up  three  ends 
to  the  harness  tyer,  who  will  tie  them  to  the  cord  that 
is  next  the  jacquard  machine  barrel  in  front  of  the 
machine ;  this  is  what  is  called  the  first  cord,  and 
attention  must  be  paid  to  the  design  to  see  that  the 
flower  is  drawn  to  answer  this  ;  the  tail  cord  next  to 
this  one  in  the  cross  row  of  the  machine  is  the  second, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  179 

which  the  harness  tyer  takes  next,  and  so  on  with  all 
the  four  hundred  tail  cords,  taking  them  in  regular 
rotation.  The  knot  used  here  is  a  matter  of  choice ; 
if  the  snitch  knot  is  employed  at  all  it  should  be  between 
the  neck  twines  and  the  sleepers,  for  the  purpose  of 
adjusting  any  of  the  mails  that  may  be  too  high  or  too 
low,  but  the  harness  tyer  should  be  very  careful  to  have 
all  the  neck  twines  equally  tight,  and  the  knots  on  the 
tail  cords  all  the  same  distance  from  the  jacquard  machine, 
for  if  the  knots  be  not  all  in  the  same  horizontal  line, 
the  heck  for  guiding  the  neck  twines  cannot  be  properly 
set. 

When  the  harness  is  brought  forward  to  this  stage, 
the  workman  proceeds  to  take  away  the  brackets  that 
are  bolted  on  to  the  sides  of  the  loom  for  holding  the 
slabstock,  and  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  a  lease  in  the 
harness,  he  ties  a  cord  to  the  end  of  the  slabstock,  which 
is  drawn  through  the  legs  of  the  sleepers  when  the 
slabstock  is  pulled  out.  This  lease  is  to  preserve  the 
order  of  the  harness,  so  that  the  person  who  is  to  draw 
the  warp  into  the  mails  may  get  them  in  regular  suc- 
cession. The  slabstock  and  brackets  having  been 
removed,  a  boy  commences  with  the  first  lead  at  the 
side  of  the  harness  and  brings  the  knot  on  the  hanger 
down  to  the  eye  of  it,  proceeding  from  one.  to  another 
until  he  goes  over  the  whole  of  the  hangers.  The 
brackets  for  holding  the  harness  board  are  now  put  on, 
in  the  same  place  where  the  brackets  were  that  held  the 


180  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

slabstock,  and  the  harness  board  fixed  in  its  place. 
The  harness  is  now  ready  for  dressing ;  that  is,  put- 
ting a  sort  of  varnish  on  to  the  hangers  and  sleepers, 
and  that  part  of  the  neck  twine  that  will  rub  on  the 
heck  when  the  harness  is  working,  but  care  must 
be  taken  that  the  varnish  is  thoroughly  dry  before  the 
drawing  of  the  warp  into  the  mails  commences.  The 
drawing  of  the  warp  into  the  mails  of  a  full  harness 
is  the  same  as  drawing  a  plain  Web,  which  is  explained 
at  page  76. 

The  Web  being  now  in  the  loom,  and  the  harness  board 
fixed  in  its  proper  place,  the  tenter's  next  duty  is  to 
see  that  the  yarn  is  in  its  proper  position,  which  is  just 
to  be  touching  the  race  when  the  lay  is  half  way  back  ; 
if  it  be  too  high  or  too  low,  he  moves  the  jacquard 
machine  up  or  down,  as  the  case  may  be,  till  once  the 
mails  of  the  harness  are  at  their  proper  place.  The  rod 
(c),  as  shown  in  Plate  III.,  Figure  7,  also  in  Plate  IV., 
Figure  9,  is  now  to  be  connected  to  the  lever  I.  which 
works  the  jacquard  machine,  and  in  doing  so,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  have  the  shed  too  large.  It  will  be 
seen  from  the  drawing  that  there  are  a  number  of  holes 
on  the  lever  for  the  purpose  of  regulating  the  size  of  the 
sheds.  After  this  is  done,  he  puts  his  foot  upon  the  treadle 
H.,  and  depresses  it,  and  by  doing  so,  thebrander  of  the 
jacquard  machine,  along  with  the  whole  harness  and 
warp  of  the  Web,  is  raised,  and  it  is  kept  in  this  position 
until  the  workman  puts  four  cards  on  the  barrel,  which 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  181 

cards  have  been  previously  cut  for  making  plain  cloth. 
The  brander  and  harness  are  now  lowered,  and  the  plain 
cards  coining  in  contact  with  the  needles  of  the  jacquard 
machine,  one  half  of  them  will  be  pressed  back,  and  the 
next  time  the  brander  is  raised  a  plain  shed  will  be 
formed,  when  the  first  lease  rod  may  be  put  into  it. 
The  next  tread  will  make  the  other  plain  shed,  when 
the  second  lease  rod  can  be  put  in,  then  the  loom  will 
be  ready  for  making  plain  cloth ;  and  to  make  good 
plain  cloth  with  the  jacquard  machine,  the  different 
articles  about  it  require  to  be  nicely  adjusted,  which 
will  now  be  explained. 


JACQUARD  MACHINE. 
The  position  that  the  Jacquard  Machine  occupies  in 
regard  to  the  loom,  will  be  seen  in  Plate  III.,  which  is 
right  above  the  loom,  and  it  should  be  as  near  to  the 
ceiling  as  it  can  be  got,  for  the  purpose  of  giving  the 
harness  twine  as  little  angle  as  possible.  If  the  machine 
is  properly  made,  the  upright  needles  should  stand 
perpendicular  when  the  brander  is  down,  if  they  are  not 
pressed  back  by  the  cross  ones.  The  hooks  on  the 
upper  end  of  the  upright  needles  should  be  3  of  an  inch 
above  the  blades  of  the  brander.  If  the  needles  press 
too  much  on  the  blades  of  the  brander,  the  trap  board 
is  shifted  a  little  towards  the  front  or  barred  side  of 
the  machine,  if  they  are  not  near  enough  to  the  blades, 


182  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

the  trap  board  is  shifted  back.  As  very  much  depends 
on  the  setting  of  the  trap  board  to  have  a  good  going 
machine,  the  workman  should  be  very  particular  to 
have  it  right  done.  The  box  at  the  back  of  the 
machine  which  contains  the  small  spiral  brass  springs, 
should  be  so  set,  as  not  to  press  too  hard  on  the  cross 
needles ;  this  can  be  adj  usted  by  putting  a  small  slip 
of  wood,  or  paste-board  between  the  spring  box  and 
the  standers  of  the  machine,  for  if  they  are  allowed 
to  press  too  much,  the  points  of  the  needles  will  have 
a  greater  tendency  to  pierce  holes  in  the  cards. 

To  get  the  barrel  properly  set  also  requires  great 
care,  and  in  doing  this,  the  workman  takes  a  card 
which  has  been  previously  cut,  and  places  it  on  one  of 
the  sides  of  the  barrel,  when  he  will  see  if  the  pegs 
will  suit  to  keep  the  card  in  its  proper  place ;  if 
the  holes  in  the  card  are  all  opposite  the  holes  in  the 
barrel,  it  is  right,  but  if  not,  he  shifts  the  pegs  till  once 
the  card  is  brought  to  the  position  required.  After 
he  has  examined  all  the  four  sides  of  the  barrel,  and 
made  them  right,  the  cards  for  working  plain  cloth 
are  again  tied  on  the  barrel,  and  put  into  the  machine, 
when  the  brander  is  allowed  to  come  down.  He  next 
sets  the  bracket  that  moves  the  lay  of  the  jacquard 
machine,  so  as  it  will  bring  the  barrel  as  close  on  the 
needles  as  to  make  all  the  upright  ones  stand  clear  of 
the  brander  blades,  except  those  that  are  to  be  lifted. 
It  does  not  do  to  have  the  barrel  coming  too  close  to 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  183 

the  machine,  because  it  puts  unnecessary  strain  on  the 
cards,  and  that  must  be  avoided. 

The  rod  (c)  that  connects  the  lever  I  (that  lifts  the 
brander)  to  the  treadle  H,  should  have  a  screw  upon 
it,  for  the  purpose  of  making  it  short  or  long  at 
pleasure;  by  this  screw  the  tenter  adjusts  the  fall  of 
the  brander.  If  the  brander  be  allowed  to  come  down 
and  rest  on  the  machine  every  shot,  when  the  loom  is 
in  full  motion,  it  will  have  the  same  effect  as  if  it  was 
struck  with  a  hammer,  which  makes  a  disagreeable 
noise,  and  has  a  very  bad  effect  upon  the  whole  of 
the  harness,  such  as  turning  and  bending  the  needles, 
causing  the  leads  to  have  a  swinging  motion,  and 
destroying  the  regularity  of  the  shedding;  and  to 
avoid  this,  the  rod  (c)  is  screwed  up  to  that  extent, 
that  the  weight  of  the  brander  will  always  hang  upon 
the  cams  G,  as  shown  at  Figure  9,  Plate  IV. 


MAKING-  CLOTH. 

When  all  the  little  parts  about  the  jacquard  machine 
are  properly  adjusted,  and  the  harness  brought  forward, 
as  has  been  explained,  the  loom  is  ready  for  weaving ; 
and  as  plain  cloth  will  show  the  working  of  the  harness 
better  than  any  other,  a  few  inches  of  it  should  be 
woven  before  the  flowering  cards  are  put  on. 

In  Plate  III.,  Figure  6,  the  cards  are  shown  at  K, 
and  it  will  be  observed  that  they  are  hung   on  two 


184  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

curved  iron  rods,  the  curves  of  them  being  made  so  as 
they  will  be  suitable  to  hold  either  a  small  or  large  set 
of  cards. 

After  having  woven  a  few  inches  of  plain  cloth,  the 
set  of  cards  that  is  to  work  the  pattern  wanted  is  hung 
upon  these  curved  rods,  the  cards  having  been  all 
previously  laced  and  arranged  on  wires  for  supporting 
them  on  the  rods.  The  four  plain  cards  are  now  taken 
off  the  barrel,  and  the  flowering  cards  put  on,  which 
completes  the  mounting  of  a  full  harness  power-loom. 
The  method  for  regulating  the  quantity  of  shots  to  be 
put  on  the  cloth  has  been  explained  in  Chapter  III. 

When  the  weaver  is  obliged  to  turn  back  the  cards 
to  find  the  suitable  one,  from  any  cause  that  may  hap- 
pen, such  as  taking  out  a  quantity  of  shots,  that  cord 
which  is  attached  to  the  upper  catch  for  turning  the 
barrel,  which  will  be  seen  in  Figure  6,  Plate  III.,  is 
taken  hold  of,  and  pulled  downwards ;  and  as  both 
catches  are  connected  at  their  points,  it  is  evident  that 
when  the  top  one  is  taken  out  of  gear,  the  under  one 
will  be  raised,  and  come  into  contact  with  the  barrel, 
which  will  turn  the  barrel  backwards  along  with  the  cards, 
when  the  weaver  depresses  the  treadle  H.  The  treadle 
H  is  depressed  by  the  weaver's  foot,  and  to  prevent  the 
harness  from  being  lifted  too  high,  a  guide  is  placed  on 
the  under  edge  of  the  treadle  for  that  purpose,  which 
enables  the  weaver  to  work  the  jacquard  machine  with 
the  greatest  ease. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  185 

To  keep  the  wooden  frame  that  guides  the  upright 
needles  steady,  there  are  four  small  spiral  springs  used  j 
two  of  them  are  shown  in  Plate  III.  (right  above  the 
word,  Figure  67  and  below  the  jacquard  machine),  the 
other  two  are  placed  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  machine, 
and  not  shown  in  the  drawings.  These  springs  are  in 
general  made  of  brass  wire,  or  some  other  material  that 
will  not  be  affected  by  dampness. 


PRESSURE  HARNESS  LOOM. 

Those  Harnesses  that  work  in  conjunction  with  the 
heddle  leaves,  which  leaves  force  the  warp  of  the  Web  into 
a  shed,  are  denominated  Pressure  Harnesses.  In  a  pres- 
sure harness  the  warp  threads  in  each  mail  vary  from 
two  to  seven,  and  sometimes  more;  but  for  many  kinds 
of  cloth,  it  is  not  necessary  to  have  an  equal  quantity 
of  threads  in  each  mail,  although  it  is  better  to  have 
them  as  near  as  possible  equal,  as  it  makes  the  turnings 
in  the  figure  more  regular. 

This  mode  of  weaving  has  been  applied  to  the  making 
of  many  different  kinds  of  goods,  such  as  shawls,  ladies' 
dresses,  table-cloths  and  covers,  napkins,  bed-mats,  &c.  ; 
and  to  make  the  principle  of  this  plan  of  weaving 
understood,  the  reader  is  requested  to  look  at  Plate  II., 
Figure  4,  where  an  end  view  of  a  loom,  with  a  pressure 
harness  mounting,  will  be  seen.  It  will  be  observed  that 
the  warp  threads  cross  each  other  between  the  heddles  and 


THEOEY  AND  PRACTICE  CF 

the  harness.  For  illustration,  suppose  the  warp  of  the 
Web  to  be  white,  and  the  weft  red,  and  that  none  of 
the  warp  is  lifted  by  the  harness,  the  heddle  leaves  in 
this  ease  would  make  tweeled  cloth,  according  to  the 
quantity  of  leaves  employed,  which  in  this  loom  are  5  ; 
and  as  there  is  never  more  than  2  leaves  working  at 
the  one  time  in  a  pressure  harness,  the  consequence  will 
be,  that  only  a  fifth-part  of  the  warp  is  lifted  each  shot, 
and  the  upper  side  of  the  cloth  will  be  red,  and  the 
under  side  white,  or  nearly  so.  If  the  loom  be  allowed 
I )  work  two  inches  of  cloth  in  this  way,  and  then  work 
two  inches  with  the  whole  harness  lifted,  only  a  fifth- 
part  of  the  warp  will  be  sunk,  and  the  colours  will  be 
reversed.  It  will  be  obvious  that  if  the  loom  was  to  work 
for  some  time  in  this  manner,  a  red  and  white  stripe 
would  be  woven,  each  stripe  two  inches  broad  j  but 
suppose  that  cards  cut  for  plain  cloth  were  to  be  put  on 
the  machine  barrel,  every  alternate  mail  would  be  raised, 
and  aloug  with  them  half  the  warp :  and  if  the  heddles 
were  allowed  to  stand  idle  for  a  short  time,  and  the 
machine  to  work  every  shot,  this  would  make  plain 
cloth  the  same  as  a  full  harness,  if  each  mail  had  only 
one  thread  of  warp  in  it ;  but  in  this  harness  each  mail 
lias  four  warp  threads  in  it,  so  the  shuttle  will  pass 
above  and  below  four  threads  alternately.  Suppose  now 
that  the  harness  is  kept  up  for  four  shots  at  a  time, 
and  the  heddles  put  in  motion,  and  the  loom  allowed  to 
work  for  a  little,  the  cloth  produced  will  have  the  ap- 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  187 

pearance  of  a  four-and-four  red  and  white  check;  because 
the  heddles  will  press  up  and  down  a  fifth-part  of  the 
warp  threads  from  each  half  of  the  harness,  every  shot. 

The  reader  will  understand  from  the  foregoing  ex- 
planation, how  any  flower  or  figure  that  is  within  the 
compass  of  the  tyc  can  be  woven.  As  already  stated, 
the  number  of  threads  in  each  mail  will  vary,  a  harness 
with  six  threads  in  each  mail  will  make  a  figure  double 
the  size  of  one  with  only  three,  if  both  harnesses  have 
the  same  tye ;  also  half  the  quantity  of  cards  will  do, 
for  in  general  the  same  number  of  shots  are  woven  for 
each  shift  of  the  card,  as  there  are  threads  in  the  mail. 
For  example, — A  three  thread  harness  will  have  three 
shots  for  each  lift  of  the  harness,  a  four  thread,  four 
shots,  and  so  on  for  every  thread  in  the  mail,  one  shot 
more  for  each  card. 

A  description  of  how  a  harness  should  be  prepared 
is  given  under  the  head,  "Full  Harness,"  so  it  need 
not  be  repeated  here,  the  only  difference  being,  that 
the  mails  and  leads  are  larger,  and  the  twine  stronger, 
than  what  is  required  for  a  full  harness. 

The  mounting  now  to  be  described,  was  for  working 
linen  damask  table-cloths,  and  was  applied  to  the  loom 
from  which  the  drawings  were  taken  that  are  given  in 
Plates  I.  and  II.  For  these  table-cloths  a  gathered  tye 
of  612  was  employed,  and  the  space  occupied  in  the 
harness  board  wTas  nearly  76  inches.  What  is  meant 
by  a  gathered  tye,  is,  in  tying  the  harness,  the  operator 


188  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

takes  two  ends,  one  from  each  half-part,  and  tyes  them  to 
the  tail  cord,  and  whatever  the  figure  is  on  the  one  half,  it 
is  the  same  on  the  other,  reversed.  In  some  figures  it  is 
necessary  to  take  only  one  end  from  the  centre  of  each 
part  for  the  first  tail  cord ;  this  is  to  make  the  centre 
of  the  figure  neater,  by  having  only  one  mail  for  the 
figure  to  turn  on.  But  all  the  other  tail  cords,  as  stated 
before,  must  have  two  ends,  one  from  each  half-part. 
However,  the  tye  for  this  table-cloth  had  only  one 
whole-part  on  it,  which  will  be  apparent  as  we  proceed 
with  the  description. 

The  harness,  being  prepared  and  ready  for  the  loom, 
the  slabstock  with  it  is  fixed  in  its  proper  position, 
which  is  shown  at  the  words,  "  Harness  Leads,"  Plate 
II.,  Figure  4.  In  this  loom  the  distance  between  the 
harness  and  fell  of  the  cloth  was  22  inches,  but  this 
may  be  different  in  other  looms.  The  proper  distance 
for  the  mails  to  be  from  the  fell  of  the  cloth,  in  a 
pressure  harness,  can  be  found  from  the  traverse  of 
the  lay.  Let  the  heddles  be  kept  as  close  to  the  lay 
as  just  to  allow  them  to  work  clear  of  it ;  and  suppose 
the  distance  from  the  fell  of  the  cloth  to  the  centre  leaf 
to  be  about  ten  inches,  then  from  the  centre  leaf  to 
the  centre  mail  in  the  harness  should  be  ten  inches 
also. 

The  jacquard  machine  having  been  fixed  right 
above  the  centre  of  the  slabstock,  the  harness  tyer 
begins  his  operations  by  taking  the  two  ends,  forming 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  189 

the  neck  twines  of  the  two  mails  that  are  in  the  centre 
of  the  harness,  and  the  first  tail  cord  in  the  machine, 
and  tyes  them  together.  He  goes  on  tying  two  of  the 
neck  twines  to  each  of  the  tail  cords  in  regular  rotation, 
until  the  whole  612  are  tyed.  Of  course  the  last  tail 
cord  will  have  tyed  to  it  the  two  outside  mails,  one 
from  each  selvage.  It  will  now  appear  that  this  tye 
can  work  any  figure  that  will  come  within  the  range 
of  1225  mails,  or  612*2=1224,  the  number  of  mails 
in  the  harness ;  but  the  figure  must  be  so  drawn,  that 
when  the  two  halves  are  put  together  they  will  join 
without  any  defect,  and  make  one  complete  figure. 

Suppose  the  harness  is  now  ready  for  the  warp  of 
the  Web  to  be  drawn  into  it,  divide  the  whole  num- 
ber of  ends  in  the  Web  by  the  mails  in  the  harness, 
and  this  will  give  the  number  of  ends  or  threads  for 
each  mail.  The  Web  being  a  1200,  with  4920  ends  in 
it,  (which  makes  it  nearly  76  inches  wide),  the  threads 
in  each  mail  will  be  4,  as  will  be  seen  from  the 
example,  after  allowing  12  ends  for  each  selvage. 

EXAMPLE. 

1224)4920(4  Threads  in  Mail. 
4896 


24  for  Selvages. 

When  the  Web  is  to  be  drawn  through  the  harness, 
it  must  at  the  same  time  be  drawn  through  the  heddles, 
and  the  heddles  are  placed  in  the  loom,  in  front  of  the 


190  THEORY  AXD  PEACTICE  OF 

harness.  The  drawer  begins  by  taking  the  first  end 
through  the  mail  and  heddle  next  the  selvage ;  the 
second  end  is  taken  through  the  same  mail,  and 
through  the  second  heddle  ;  the  third  and  fourth  ends 
are  taken  through  the  same  first  mail,  and  through  the 
third  and  fourth  heddles.  and  so  on  with  all  the  rest, 
four  ends  in  each  mail,  taking  the  heddles  in  regular 
succession,  until  all  the  Web  is  drawn.  This  will  take 
all  the  warp  in  the  Web,  except  2-1  ends,  which  are 
allowed  for  the  selvages,  and  2  or  3  mails  are  hung  at 
each  side  of  the  harness  board,  for  the  selvage  ends 
that  are  not  lifted  by  the  harness.  If  all  the  12  ends 
for  the  selvage  are  put  in  one  mail,  a  lead  sufficiently 
heavy  must  be  hung  to  the  hanger,  to  keep  them 
down,  so  that  the  pressure  of  the  heddles  will  not  be 
able  to  lift  the  lead. 

After  the  Web  is  drawn  into  the  harness  and 
heddles.  it  is  knotted  up  in  the  same  manner  as  a 
common  Web,  but  the  mounting  of  the  heddles  is 
rather  different.  The  eyes  of  common  heddles  are  about 
§  of  an  inch  long,  but  for  a  pressure  harness  the  eyes 
must  be  at  least  3  inches  long,  to  allow  the  yarn  in  the 
harness  to  form  a  shed  independent  of  the  heddles;  as  3 
of  the  leaves  out  of  the  5  will  be  at  all  times  in  a  mid  posi- 
tion, neither  up  nor  down,  while  the  other  two  are 
forcing  the  tweel  shed,  one  of  the  two  will  take  down 
the  fifth  part  of  the  warp  that  is  lifted  by  the  harness, 
and  the  other  will  raise  a  fifth  part  of  the  warp  that 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  191 

is  not  lifted.  So  when  tying  up  the  heddles  the  under 
end  of  the  eyes  are  to  be  brought  nearly  on  a  level 
with  the  race  of  the  lay ;  and  when  this  is  done,  a 
piece  of  wood  is  put  on  the  top  of  the  jacks  at  P.  P.  P., 
Figure  1,  Plate  I.,  and  firmly  tyed  down  upon  them, 
to  keep  them  parallel  with  the  heddle  shafts,  for  the 
time  being,  when  the  workman  is  connecting  the 
heddle  shafts  to  the  jacks  and  treadles  with  cords, 
which  cords  are  represented  at  5  and  6,  Figure  1, 
Plate  I. 

When  the  heddles  are  mounted,  the  piece  of  wood 
is  taken  off  the  jacks,  and  two  or  three  inches  of  cloth 
is  woven  with  the  heddles,  the  harness  being  allowed 
to  stand  idle.  By  doing  this,  the  workman  will  see 
if  the  sheds  are  properly  formed,  better  than  if  both 
the  harness  and  heddles  were  working.  If  the  jacquard 
machine  and  harness  board  have  been  adjusted, 
according  to  the  direction  given  under  "  full  harness," 
the  loom  will  be  ready  for  the  flowering  cards;  and 
if  the  ATeb  is  to  be  woven  with  the  same  quantity  of 
weft  as  warp,  then  the  set  of  cards  will  contain 
1224  flowering  cards,  and  6  blank  or  uncut  ones, 
making  in  all  1230  ;  but  to  this  should  be  added  other 
ten  tweeling  or  blank  cards,  to  allow  room  for  a  hem 
on  each  end  of  the  table-cloth.  It  will  be  seen  from 
the  position  of  the  heddles  in  the  loom  that  the  har- 
ness requires  to  make  a  shed  double  the  size  of  what 
is  made  by  the  heddles,  (see  dotted  lines,  Figure  4, 


192  THEORY  AM)  PRACTICE  OF 

Plate  II.) ,  so  as  to  have  the  sheds  that  are  made  by 
the  harness  and  heddles  both  the  same  size  in  front  of 
the  reed  where  the  shuttle  runs.  The  shed  made  by 
the  harness  is  regulated  in  this  loom  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  in  the  full  harness  one. 

In  the  same  Plate,  at  Figure  5,  will  be  seen  a  draw- 
ing of  the  disengaging  apparatus,  which  apparatus  is 
for  regulating  the  quantity  of  shots  the  loom  works 
for  every  change  of  card. 

It  is  common  in  the  trade  to  say  so  many  shots  on 
the  card,  as  four  shots  on  the  card,  five  shots  on  the 
card,  &c,  which  means  that  the  loom  works  that 
number  of  shots  for  each  card,  and  for  this  table-cloth 
there  was  four  shots  on  the  card,  and  as  the  set  con- 
tains in  all  1240,  including  the  blank  and  tweeling 
ones,  that  number  multiplied  by  4  will  give  4960  shots 
for  one  table-cloth.  The  reader  will  understand  from 
this  that  any  figure  or  pattern  can  be  woven  up  to 
that  quantity  of  shots. 

To  save  expense  in  cards,  manufacturers  in  design- 
ing for  table-cloths,  very  often  makes  the  pattern  of 
the  one  end  of  the  cloth  the  same  as  the  other;  when 
this  way  is  adopted  half  the  cards  will  do,  by  working 
them  back  for  the  second  half  of  the  cloth. 

Suppose,  that  it  is  wanted  to  have  15  shots  on  the 
cloth,  instead  of  12,  and  to  keep  the  table-cloth  the 
same  length,  and  to  have  no  more  cards  in  the  set, 
the  disengaging  apparatus  is  made  to  put  five  shots  on 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  L98 

tlie  card  instead  of  four ;  because  if  four  gives  twelve, 
five  will  give  fifteen.  This  is  accomplished  by  chang- 
ing the  pinion  S  on  the  boss  of  the  wheel,  c,  c,  at  Figure 
5.  If  the  wheels  and  pinions  in  this  apparatus  are  pro- 
perly proportionated,  any  degree  of  wefting  can  be  put 
upon  the  cloth  with  far  more  accuracy  than  with  the 
hand-loom  weaver,  because  it  will  not  forget,  as  a  weaver 
might  do,  the  number  of  shots  for  each  card.  For 
example,  if  the  weft  that  is  wanted  on  the  cloth  be  equal 
to  4§  shots  on  the  card,  then  3  cards  would  require  to 
have  5  shots,  and  one  4,  which  will  make  19  shots  for  1 
revolution  of  the  stud  wheel  in  the  disengaging  appara- 
tus. It  will  be  observed  that  there  are  4  studs  in  the 
wheel  shown  in  the  figure,  but  they  are  set  to  work  only 
4  shots  on  each  card,  and  4  times  4  being  16,  a  pinion 
will  be  required  to  be  put  on,  so  as  the  wheel  will  make 
1  turn  for  19  shots.  Suppose  again,  that  the  cloth 
wTanted  is  to  be  equal  to  3J  shots  on  the  card,  this 
example  will  show  how  any  nicety  can  be  attained 
by  this  apparatus.  To  find  the  pinion  required  for  the 
different  shifts, — first  find  how  many  shots  will  be 
required  for  one  revolution  of  the  stud  wheel,  and  it  will 
be  found  by  multiplying  the  number  of  shots  on  the  card 
by  the  denominator  of  the  fraction. 

EXAMPLE. 

3i   Shots  on  Card. 
8 


-!■">   Shots  for  1  turn  of  the  Wheel. 

V 


194  THEOEY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

It  will  be  evident  that  the  wheel  will  require  to  have 
8  studs  in  it,  for  the  3J  shots  on  the  card,  which  will 
be  equal  to  7  cards  with  3  shots  on  each,  making  21, 
and  1  card  with  4  shots,  which  makes  up  the  25. 
After  this  explanation,  with  the  description  given  at 
page  157,  it  will  be  easily  understood  how  the  apparatus 
should  act. 


STENTING  ROLLERS. 

At  page  159  there  is  given  a  short  description  of  the 
use  of  these  rollers,  and  it  will  be  well  for  the  reader 
to  look  at  the  drawings  again,  and  the  description  there 
given. 

The  little  or  no  elasticity  in  linen  yarn  has  always 
been  a  drawback  to  the  weaving  of  it  in  a  pressure 
harness,  because  the  heddles  have  to  force  the  yarn  from 
the  harness  shed  to  form  the  tweeling  sheds  ;  therefore 
that  part  of  the  warp  which  is  pressed  sustains  the 
whole  strain  or  weight  of  the  pace;  and  the  consequence 
is  that  the  rest  of  the  warp  in  the  harness  does  not 
form  a  proper  shed,  by  it  becoming  slack.  When 
experimenting  with  the  pressure  harness  in  the  power- 
loom,  the  greatest  difficulty  we  had  to  contend  with 
was  to  keep  the  warp  yarn  at  its  proper  tension,  and 
this  led  to  the  introduction  of  these  rollers,  which  are 
represented  in  Plate  II.,  Figure  4.  The  dotted  lines 
at  q,  q,  q,  show  the  position  of  the  different  portions  of 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  195 

the  warp  yarn  for  each  respective  leaf  j  that  portion  of 
the  warp  which  passes  over  the  roller  nearest  the  yarn 
beam,  is  taken  through  the  back  leaf  of  the  heddles, 
the  yarn  passing  over  the  next  roller,  through  the  next 
leaf,  and  so  on  with  the  others  in  regular  rotation. 
When  any  of  the  leaves  begin  to  force  the  shed,  the 
spiral  springs  of  the  roller  yield  to  the  strain  put  upon 
them,  and  by  this  means  the  warp  yarn  in  the  harness 
that  is  not  pressed  is  kept  at  a  proper  tightness,  by  the 
pace  on  the  yarn  beam  not  yielding  to  the  pressure  of 
the  heddles.  To  keep  the  different  parts  of  the  warp 
distinct,  it  is  necessary  to  have  each  roll  placed  a  little 
below  the  one  immediately  behind  it,  as  shown  in  the 
Drawing  ;  which  also  shows,  that  the  whole  of  the  warp 
yarn  is  brought  to  the  same  level  with  the  common  warp 
roll,  which  is  placed  behind  the  harness. 

By  using  these  rollers,  the  following  advantages  are 
obtained  : — The  Web  can  be  woven  with  a  lighter  pace, 
and  consequently  will  be  easier  on  the  yarn ;  the  cloth 
is  made  more  perfect,  by  being  free  from  what  is  called 
skipped  warp,  caused  by  the  warp  yarn  being  slack ; 
the  weaver's  time  is  economised  by  being  able  to  work 
with  larger  shuttles  and  pirns  ;  and  there  is  a  saving 
of  power  in  driving  the  loom,  because  the  warp  yarn 
does  not  press  so  much  upon  the  shuttle,  being  enabled 
to  work  with  larger  sheds  which  allows  the  shuttle  to  be 
driven  with  a  lighter  pick. 

It  is   essential  to  have  the   rollers  strong   at    the 


196  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

same  time  light,  and  small  in  diameter.  They  inu-rt 
have  as  much  strength  as  not  to  bend  in  the  centre, 
when  the  pressure  of  the  yarn  comes  upon  them,  for 
that  would  destroy  the  regularity  of  the  shed  ;  they 
must  be  small  in  diameter,  so  as  to  take  up  as  little 
room  as  possible ;  and  they  must  be  light,  so  as  the 
springs  will  not  be  too  much  burdened  with  their 
weight.  To  have  these  three  requisites,  the  rollers 
should  be  made  of  sheet-iron  tinned,  similar  to  a 
cylinder  of  a  throstle  frame,  but  on  a  much  smaller 
scale. 


SHEDDING. 

It  has  been  explained  how  a  common  Web  is  shedded, 
and  a  few  words  will  show  the  difference  for  the  shed- 
ding in  this  loom.  As  will  have  been  noticed,  the  eyes 
of  the  heddles  for  a  pressure  harness  is  at  least  3  inches 
long  :  and  as  the  heddles  must  move  the  length  of  the 
eye  besides  the  depth  of  the  shed,  it  will  be  necessary 
to  take  this  into  calculation  in  making  the  patterns  for 
the  tweeling  barrel  and  treadles  ;  for  if  the  shed 
wanted  be  3  inches  deep,  and  the  eye  of  the  heddle  be 
3  inches,  then  the  traverse  of  the  points  of  the  tweeling 
treadles  must  be  6  inches,  to  make  up  for  the  length 
of  the  eye.  But  the  shed  must  not  be  so  large  as  the 
eye  of  the  heddle.  or  the  warp  yarn  will  press  upon 
eyes    of    those    that     are     not    in    the    act    of 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  197 

shedding,  and  put  unnecessary  strain   on   the  Web.* 


CHECK  POWER-LOOM,  WITH  SIX  SHUTTLES. 

Checked  Cloth  is  made  by  having  stripes  in  the  warp 
and  weft ;  and  these  stripes  may  be  formed  by  putting 
in  so  much  coarse,  and  so  much  fine  yarn,  alternately, 
in  the  warp  of  the  Web,  and  the  same  way  with  the 
weft,  which  will  make  a  check.  But  checks  are  mostly 
made,  by  having  the  warp  and  weft  striped  with  different 
colours,  which  stripes  form  the  checks,  according  to 
their  arrangement. 

It  is  an  easy  matter,  to  have  the  warp  striped  with 
as  many  colours  as  may  be  chosen ;  the  warping  of 
which  has  been  explained  at  pages  61,  62,  and  63. 
But  it  is  a  very  different  matter  with  the  striping  to  be 
made  in  the  wefting  ;  which  will  be  apparent  from  the 
description  given  at  page  161,  about  the  working  of 
the  shuttle  boxes. 

We  may  also  state  here,  how  patterns  are  got  up  at 
first.  A  pattern  drawer  may  paint  on  paper,  from  his 
own  imagination,  or  from  the  suggestion  of  the  manu- 
facturer, as  many  as  will  make  a  pattern  Web  ;  and  if 
the  checks  are  small,  there  may  be  10  or  12  of  them 
put  in  it.  The  use  of  the  pattern  Web,  is  to  show  the 
effect  the  different  colours  have  when  woven  into  cloth  ; 

*  At  page  153,  whore  this  chapter  begins,  on  the  fourth  line  from  the  top, 
for  the  word  "  complicate  "  read  "  complete." 


19S  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

for  very  often,  the  patterns  that  look  best  on  paper, 
have  very  little  appearance  in  cloth.  Suppose  that  a 
Web  is  warped  4  or  5  yards  long,  with  ten  of  these 
patterns  in  it,  the  weaver  works  over  each  pattern,  with 
wefting  the  same  as  the  warp,  which  will  give  each 
pattern  in  the  warp  9  different  weftings,  besides  its  own. 
And  when  all  the  10  patterns  are  woven  over,  there  vail 
be  10  of  thern  regular,  and  90  irregular;  or  what 
is  called  chance  patterns.  All  the  100  patterns  are 
cut  separate,  and  put  in  some  convenient  place  to  be 
examined  ;  those  that  are  considered  fair,  are  put  aside 
for  a  second  examination,  the  others  are  thrown  into 
the  waste  basket ;  on  the  second  examination,  if  any 
one  is  found  good,  it  is  given  to  the  Warper.  The 
pattern  Web  being  still  in  the  loom,  any  little  alteration 
can  be  made  in  the  different  patterns,  that  may  be 
suggested,  until  the  whole  length  of  the  Web  be  con- 
sumed in  trials. 

Having  fixed  upon  a  pattern,  that  requires  6  different 
colours  in  the  wefting,  it  will  require  a  lay  with  a  six 
shuttle  box  to  make  it ;  and  our  object  here,  is  to 
explain  how  these  can  be  made  to  work  in  the  power- 
loom,  and  to  make  the  description  more  readily  compre- 
hended ;  also,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  wish  to  try 
their  inventive  faculties  at  making  a  complete  power- 
loom  for  check  work,  the  following  hints  are  given.  The 
number  of  plans  that  have  been  tried  in  connection  with 
check-looms,  are  astonishing  ;  and  by  far  the  largest 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  190 

number  of  them  did  not  succeed ;  so  the  remarks 
given  here,  may  be  of  use  to  the  inventor  and  loom- 
maker. 

When  the  hand-loom  weaver  requires  to  use  more 
shuttles  than  5,  he  in  general  works  with  a  single 
shuttle  lay,  and  has  the  number  of  shuttles  lying  on  a 
board,  at  the  side  of  the  loom,  which  he  picks  up  with 
his  hand,  as  they  are  required  to  be  changed,  according 
to  the  pattern  ;  but  in  the  power-loom,  this  has  all  to 
be  done  by  machinery. 

To  have  a  complete  power-loom  for  making  the 
various  kinds  of  checks  used  in  tartans  and  fancy 
dresses,  the  apparatus  used,  as  an  index  for  the  pat- 
tern, must  have  an  extensive  range,  such  as  what  may 
be  obtained  by  using  the  jacquard  machine  for  that 
purpose. 

It  should  have  a  weft  stopper  motion  that  will  stop 
the  loom  the  first  shot,  and  this  will  cause  the  use  of 
a  fork  at  each  side  of  the  Web,  or  some  other  thing 
that  will  act  upon  the  loom  whenever  the  weft  is 
away,  not  allowing  it  to  run  one  shot  afterwards,  as 
is  the  case  with  the  common  weft  motion. 

The  mechanism  for  shifting  the  shuttle-box  should 
be  so  made,  that  any  shuttle  can  be  brought  into  play 
so  as  to  make  any  pattern  that  can  be  imagined.  A 
contrivance  for  stopping  the  loom  when  the  shuttle- 
driver  is  not  properly  taken  back  at  the  double-box 
side  of  the  lay  ;  for  if  the  driver  happens  to  be  in  the 


200  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

box  at  the  time  it  should  be  shifted,  either  the  box  or 
the  driver  will  be  broken,  perhaps  both. 

If  the  box  is  not  brought  to  its  proper  position 
when  shifted,  there  should  be  a  protector  to  stop  the 
loom  to  prevent  damage  being  done  to  the  picking  or 
shuttle  box. 

As  mistakes  sometimes  occur  by  putting  in  the 
wrong  colour,  and  thus  spoiling  the  pattern,  some 
mechanism  should  be  applied  that  will  prevent  the 
loom  from  working  if  the  proper  coloured  pirn  be  not 
in  the  shuttle  ;  and  as  it  would  be  difficult  to  make 
the  loom  distinguish  colours,  the  pirns  that  the  weft 
is  wound  upon  could  be  made  with  different  shaped 
heads,  each  colour  having  its  own  kind  of  pirn  ;  and 
if  the  shuttle  is  filled  with  a  wrong  pirn,  the  loom  will 
not  work,  because  the  proper  pirn  is  not  in  the  right 
shuttle. 

As  stated  at  page  161,  the  Drawings  marked  Plates 
III.  and  IV.,  show  an  arrangement  for  6  shuttles, 
which  will  answer  for  the  pattern  fixed  upon  ;  and 
the  pattern  given  at  page  64  will  do  for  an  example 
in  the  arrangement  of  shuttles,  supposing  the  slate 
colour  is  understood  to  be  wefted  with  white. 

It  will  be  seen  at  page  64  that  the  first  of  the  pat- 
tern is  60  of  Brown  ;  and  suppose,  for  the  sake  of 
reference,  that  the  shuttles  are  numbered  1,  2,  3,  4,  5, 
and  6,  No.  1  being  the  shuttle  in  the  top  box,  the 
others  to  be  in   regular  rotation  to  Xo.  6,  the  shuttle 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


201 


in  the  bottom  box.     To  work  this  pattern,  the  box 
will  require  to  be  shifted  as  under: — 


60    of  Brown, 

1st  Shuttle. 

2     , 

,     Eed, 

2nd 

tt 

2     , 

,     Orange,      .. 

3rd 

a 

2 

,     Yellow, 

.       4th 

» 

8 

,     Green, 

.       5th 

>> 

2 

,     Brown, 

1st 

)) 

20 

,     White, 

.       6th 

j> 

2 

,     Brown, 

1st 

}> 

8 

,     Green, 

..       6  th 

>> 

2 

,     Yellow, 

..       4th 

)> 

2 

,     Orange,       . 

3rd 

)) 

2 

,     Bed, 

..       2nd 

n 

10 

,     White, 

..       6th 

)> 

10 

,     Brown, 

1st 

>) 

10 

,     White, 

6th 

;> 

4 

,     Eed, 

..       2nd 

>j 

14 

„     White, 

...       6th 

>> 

14 

„     Brown, 

...       1st 

>) 

4 

,     Green, 

...       5th 

;) 

2 

„     Orange, 

...       3rd 

>> 

20 

„     Brown, 

1st 

}> 

20 

,     White, 

...       6th 

)) 

On  examination  of  this  pattern,  it  will  be  observed, 
that  the  shuttles  cannot  be  taken  in  regular  suc- 
cession, by  working  the  box  up  or  down,  without 
missing  some  of  the  shuttles;  and  to  obtain  this, 
each  shuttle  must  be  at  the  control  of  the  index  for  the 
pattern,  which  in  this  case  is  the  set  of  cards  working 
on  the  jacquard  machine. 

What  is  called  a  400  jacquard  machine  has,  in 
general,  5 1  rows  of  needles,  with  8  in  each  row,  which 
in  all  makes  408;  and  the  tye  of  the  "full 
harness "  which  has  been  described  is,  400,   which 


202  THEOEY  AXD  EEACTICE  OF 

leaves  8  needles  not  required  for  the  harness ;  6  of 
these  8  are  taken  for  regulating  the  movements  of  the 
shuttle  box ;  as  the  wefting  was  one  shot  above,  even 
with  the  warp,  the  set  of  cards  were  440,  for  the  com- 
plete pattern  of  the  flowering ;  the  checking  pattern, 
being  just  half  the  size,  it  is  twice  repeated  on  the  set 
of  cards,  as  it  only  required  220  shots  to  complete  the 
check  pattern.  The  ends  of  the  cards  right  opposite 
the  needles,  set  aside  for  the  checking,  are  not  cut, 
except  when  the  shuttle  box  is  to  be  shifted,  and  then 
1  hole  is  punched  in  the  card,  to  correspond  with  the 
shuttle,  which  is  to  be  brought  into  play.  It  will  be 
seen  from  this  pattern,  that  only  22  cards  will  require 
to  be  cut  for  1  repeat  of  the  checking,  the  remainder 
beino-  all  left  blank  at  their  ends. 

After  the  pattern  is  arranged  on  the  cards,  the  work- 
man will  require  to  adjust  each  shuttle  box  to  its 
respective  lever,  or  treadle  ;  and  this  is  done  by  turning 
the  cam  S,  Figure  9,  round,  until  the  full  part  of  it 
presses  upon  the  tumbler,  then  screwing  up  the  chains 
at  X.  to  have  both  of  them  the  same  tightness,  when 
the  shuttle  box  belonging  to  that  lever  is  in  its  proper 
place.  After  this  has  been  repeated  upon  all  the  6 
levers,  the  G  needles  in  the  jacquard  machine  are  con- 
nected with  cords  to  the  bell  cranks  that  work  the 
tumblers  in  the  levers  ;  and  care  must  be  taken  to  have 
the  proper  needle  attached  to  the  lever  that  is  to  work 
the  shuttle   corresponding  to  the  pattern.     It  will  be 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  203 


observed  in  Plate  III.,  Figure  7,  that  there  is  a  spiral 
spring  (marked  8)  for  each  of  the  6  cards,  but  only  1 
is  shown  in  the  drawing ;  and  as  the  jacquard  machine 
may  be  lifted  higher  at  one  time  than  another,  these 
springs  yield  to  the  over-lift,  which  saves  the  cords 
from  being  broken,  and  the  needles  from  receiving  any 
undue  strain. 

It  will  also  be  observed  at  the  back  of  the  rack 
(dldl)  Figure  11,  that  there  is  a  projecting  casting, 
with  6  hollow  curves,  1  for  each  shuttle  box ;  these 
curves  are  used  for  keeping  the  shuttle  box  steady,  at 
the  instant  the  shuttles  are  being  picked.     As  the 
cam  S  makes  1  revolution  for  every  two  shots ;  the 
shuttle  box  is  relieved  every  second  shot  from  the 
strain  put  upon  the  rack,  so  that  the  box  can  be  shifted 
every  second  shot  if  required.     Another  thing  that 
these  curves  are  used  for  is,  that  if  the  chains  do  not 
bring  the  sole  of  the  box  exactly  level  with  the  race  of 
the  lay,  the  small  pulley  (g)  being  pressed  into  the 
curve,  by  the  cam  S,  makes  them  exactly  level.     But 
if  one  of  the  chains  breaks,  and  the  box  stops  when  the 
small  pulley  {g)  is  opposite  one  of  the  projections,  then 
the  protector  for  stopping  the  loom,  when  the  shuttle 
box  is  not  properly  shifted,  takes  effect  and  stops  the 
loom. 

The  shuttle  cord  at  that  side  of  the  loom  where  the 
shifting  box  is  placed,  must  be  so  adjusted  as  to  allow 
the  driver,  when  taken  back,  to  touch  the  lever,  J  J, 


204  THEORY  AXD  PEACTICE  OF 

shown  at  Figure  6,  Plate  III.,  or  the  loom  will  not  work, 
because  this  lever  acts  upon  the  apparatus  for  stopping 
the  loom  when  the  driver  is  not  taken  back  to  its  proper 
position.  When  the  weft  stoppers  and  other  parts 
about  the  loom  are  all  properly  set,  the  loom  will  be 
ready  for  making  cloth.  And  although  this  check-loom 
that  we  have  been  describing  has  also  a  harness,  the 
description  given  will  answer  for  any  kind  of  checked 
work  ;  for  if  the  harness  be  not  required  for  the  kind  of 
work  to  be  woven,  a  small  machine,  made  on  the  prin- 
ciple of  the  jacquard  machine,  will  do  for  an  index  for 
the  pattern.  But  if  the  manufacturer  has  already  got 
jacquard  machines,  he  can  use  them  for  that  purpose 
with  an  old  set  of  cards  that  may  have  the  number  in 
it  for  the  pattern,  which  will  save  the  expense  of  getting 
new  ones. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  205 


CHAPTER  VI. 
LAPPET  WEAVING,  &c. 

To  represent  flowers  and  figures  on  the  surface  of 
woven  cloth  has  been  a  work  or  an  amusement  to 
females  in  every  age,  generally  known  by  the  name 
embroidery,  which  was  commonly  done  by  sewing; 
using,  for  the  sewing  thread,  a  different  kind  of  yarn 
from  what  the  cloth  was  woven  with.  This  difference 
might  either  consist  in  the  sewing  thread  or  yarn  being 
coarser,  or  in  the  colour  of  it ;  so  lappet  weaving  is 
just  to  make  representations  of  different  kinds  of  flowers, 
birds,  and  other  things,  on  the  surface  of  woven  cloth, 
although  this  is  not  sewing,  but  a  mere  imitation  of  it. 

Articles  of  dress,  ornamented  with  sewed  work,  have 
long  been  held  in  esteem  ;  and  the  prices  paid  for  some  of 
them  were  astonishing,  which  may  have  been  the  reason 
for  so  many  different  inventions  for  the  purpose  of 
making  sewed  work  cheaper,  and  the  introduction  of 
machinery  for  imitating  needle  work,  which  enables  the 
manufacturer  to  bring  that  class  of  goods  to  the  market 
at  a  low  price.  Among  those  machines,  may  be  classed, 
the  tambouring  frames,  the  embroidering  machines,  and 
the  different  kinds  of  looms  that  have  been  used  for  that 


206  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

purpose  ;  the  lappet  loom  is  one  of  tliem  which  will  now 
he  explained. 

The  ground  of  lappet  cloth  may  he  either  plain 
texture,  or  gauze,  or  it  may  he  both,  by  having  stripes  of 
gauze  work  interspersed  with  the  plain  cloth.  But  the 
descriptions  given  in  this  place,  will  be  to  show  how  the 
11  whip  "  is  put  upon  the  surface  of  the  cloth,  to  form  the 
figures. 

Whip  is  the  name  given  to  that  kind  of  yarn  which 
is  used  for  making  the  figures  in  lappet  weaving,  and  it 
is  made  by  twisting  together  so  many  ends  of  common 
yarn,  in  the  same  manner  as  sewing  thread  is  made. 
The  twist  put  upon  it  depends  entirely  upon  the  kind 
of  work  it  is  to  be  used  for.  A  very  large  quantity  of 
the  whip  used  in  lappet  weaving,  is  made  from  40s  and 
50s ;  but  the  following  list  will  show  some  of  the 
varieties  that  are  used : — 

2  Plv  of  No.  ISs,  White.  Red.  Blue.  Orange.  Other  Colours. 


3 

j> 

1} 

ISs, 

2 

!) 

» 

20s, 

3 

)» 

5) 

20s, 

2 

>) 

.•) 

24s, 

3 

>) 

;> 

24s, 

2 

:> 

j) 

30s, 

3 

)) 

„ 

30s, 

2 

)> 

j> 

40s, 

3 

)> 

>> 

40s, 

4 

>) 

>> 

40s, 

2 

>! 

J! 

50s, 

3 

>> 

n 

50s, 

4 

>) 

J} 

50s, 

3 

)> 

)> 

60s, 

4 

)) 

>) 

60s, 

THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  207 

Besides  the  preceding,  there  are  many  other  sizes 
used,  and  the  twist  put  upon  them  varies  according  to 
circumstances;  however,  the  whip  must  always  have  as 
much  twist  put  upon  it,  as  to  make  it  stand  the  strain  it 
has  to  undergo  in  the  process  of  weaving.  When  the 
merchant  wishes  his  goods  made  with  very  soft  whip,  it 
is  very  difficult  to  hit  upon  the  exact  twist,  as  a  great 
deal  depends  upon  the  quality  of  yarn  the  whip  is  made 
from,  and  the  twist  must  be  found  out  by  experiment. 

It  is  important  that  the  manufacturer  should  have 
his  whip  made  from  good  yarn ;  many  make  great 
mistakes  in  buying  low-priced  whip,  considering  it 
cheap;  but  it  is  a  delusion,  for  some  of  the  trashy 
stuff  that  is  sold  for  whip  is  dear  at  any  price 
to  use  it  for  lappets  ;  because  the  weaver  can  neither 
make  quantity  nor  quality  to  remunerate  the  manu- 
facturer if  the  whip  is  not  good. 


LAPPET  LOOM. 

The  framing  of  a  power-loom  for  weaving  Lappets 
is  nearly  the  same  as  the  framing  of  one  for  plain  cloth, 
the  stretch  being  rather  longer  to  allow  room  for  the 
whip  rolls  and  the  extra  traverse  of  the  lay;  the  shed- 
ding, picking,  and  a  number  of  other  things,  are  similar 
to  those  in  the  common  loom,  and  will  not  be  taken 
notice  of  here;  but  before  beginning  to  explain  the 
different  articles  that  are  required  extra  for  the  lappet 


208  THEORY  AND  PEAGTICE  OF 

loom,  it  may  be  stated,  that  the  crank  and  wyper  shafts 
should  be  so  placed  as  to  give  ample  room  for  the 
lappet  mounting  to  work  without  coming  in  contact 
with  any  other  parts  about  the  loom,  and  the  cranks 
should  be  made  with  a  throw  sufficiently  large  to 
give  the  lay  nearly  7  inches  of  a  traverse.  The 
space  that  the  needle  frames  take  up  in  the  lay  is  the 
cause  of  this  large  traverse.  It  will  also  be  necessary 
when  putting  up  the  gearing  for  driving  the  looms,  to 
take  into  consideration  the  extra  space  they  will 
occupy,  compared  to  what  is  required  for  common 
looms. 


LAPPET  WHEEL. 

The  pattern  to  be  woven  is  drawn  upon  design 
paper,  from  which  the  wheel-cutter  works.  The  wheels 
for  lappets  are  in  general  made  of  plane-tree,  being 
previously  well  seasoned,  but  they  may  be  made  from 
any  other  kind  of  hard  wood  that  is  close  in  the  grain, 
and  not  liable  to  cast  by  change  of  the  atmosphere. 

The  diameter  of  the  wheel  will  depend  upon  the  size 
of  the  pattern,  although  for  very  small  patterns,  such 
as  the  honey-comb,  it  is  not  advisable  to  have  the 
wheel  so  small  as  just  to  have  the  pattern  once  on  its 
circumference,  because  the  grooves  are  very  soon  worn 
with  the  peck,  and  this  will  spoil  the  neatness  of  the 
figure;  therefore,  for  small  figures  it  is  better  to  have 
the  pattern  repeated  three  or  four  times.     After  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  209 

diameter  of  the  wheel  has  been  fixed  upon,  and  the 
number  of  teeth  that  will  be  required  for  the  pattern, 
the  piece  of  wood  is  put  into  a  lathe,  for  the  purpose 
of  being  turned  to  its  proper  size.  On  the  side  of  the 
wheel  where  the  groove  or  grooves,  as  the  case  may  be, 
are  to  be  cut,  a  number  of  circular  lines  are  made 
for  the  guidance  of  the  workman  when  cutting  the 
pattern;  these  lines  may  either  represent  the  space  of 
1,  2,  or  3  splits  of  the  reed  of  the  intended  Web,  and 
the  workman  will  cut  accordingly.  Steel  combs  can 
be  got  any  pitch  required  for  making  the  circular  lines 
on  the  wheel  all  at  once;  there  is  also  a  small  groove 
cut  in  the  wheel,  near  its  circumference,  for  the  pace 
cord. 

After  the  wheel  is  turned,  the  next  process  is  to 
divide  its  circumference  into  as  many  divisions  as  will 
make  up  the  number  of  teeth  required ;  this  is  done  by 
an  index  which  is  fixed  on  the  spindle  of  the  lathe, 
or  by  a  dividing  machine,  the  number  of  teeth  having 
been  ascertained  from  the  pattern  on  the  design  paper. 
When  these  divisions  have  been  marked  for  the  teeth, 
a  straight  line  is  drawn  from  each  mark  to  the  centre 
of  the  wheel.  The  circular  lines  represent  the  warp  of 
the  Web,  and  the  straight  ones  the  weft;  for  each 
straight  line  there  will  be  two  shots  of  weft,  and  for 
each  circular  line  there  may  be  two,  four,  or  six  threads 
of  warp,  according  to  the  fineness  of  the  comb. 

The  workman  will  now  draw  on  the  face  of- the  wheel 


210  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

those  parts  that  are  to  be  cut  for  the  groove,  and  the 
design  paper  will  show  him  how  many  threads  of  the 
warp  will  require  to  be  traversed  by  the  lappet  needle 
to  form  the  pattern  at  each  tooth  of  the  wheel;  and  to 
this  space  must  be  added  the  space  that  the  peck  will 
occupy.  When  he  has  got  the  piece  cut  out  for  the 
first  tooth  to  correspond  with  the  first  line  on  the  design 
paper,  he  takes  the  next  line  for  the  second  tooth,  and 
so  on  for  the  round  of  the  wheel. 

Suppose,  for  illustration,  that  before  the  wheel  was 
taken  out  of  the  turning  lathe  a  groove  had  been  cut  in 
it  half-an-inch  wide,  and  suppose  the  peck  to  be  a  quarter 
of  an  inch,  then  it  would  follow  that  a  straight  stripe  of 
whip  a  quarter  of  an  inch  broad  would  be  woven  on  the 
face  of  the  cloth.  Now  it  will  be  evident  that  if  the  groove 
be  made  wider  at  any  part  of  the  wheel,  the  stripe  will 
be  made  broader  in  proportion  at  that  part.  It  is  upon 
this  principle  of  widening  and  contracting  the  groove, 
and  changing  its  position  on  the  face  of  the  wheel,  that 
any  figure  which  will  come  within  the  range  of  the 
lappet  loom  may  be  woven. 

Every  new  pattern  requires  a  new  wheel,  and  although 
not  very  expensive,  at  the  end  of  a  year  the  wheel- 
cutter's  account  amounts  to  a  considerable  sum,  which 
has  caused  some  manufacturers  to  consider  whether 
some  plan  could  not  be  devised,  so  that  one  wheel  would 
answer  for  any  pattern;  but  as  yet  no  such  wheel  has 
been  constructed,  although  a  near  approach  to  it  was 


THE  ART  OP  WEAVING.  211 

made  about  sixteen  years  ago.  This  wheel  was  made 
of  sheet  iron,  was  fully  22  inches  in  diameter,  and  had 
180  teeth  of  §  pitch.  On  the  face  of  it  the  circular  lines 
were  marked  to  correspond  to  the  splits  of  a  10°°  reed, 
and  opposite  each  tooth  there  was  a  slit  about  6  inches 
long,  into  which  a  pair  of  small  bolts  with  thin  flat 
heads  were  placed,  the  heads  projecting  from  the  face  of 
the  plate  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  to  form  the  sides  of 
the  grooves  for  the  pecks.  These  small  bolts  being 
moveable,  they  were  shifted  to  any  place  in  the  slits  of 
the  wheel  to  form  the  pattern  wanted. 

The  wheel  having  180  teeth,  would  have  a  range  for 
a  pattern  containing  360  shots  of  weft,  but  it  will 
be  obvious  that  this  wheel  would  not  answer  for  any 
pattern;  for  the  number  of  weft  shots  contained  in  the 
given  pattern  must  be  a  number  that  360  will  divide 
by;  perhaps  this  was  one  of  the  principal  reasons 
manufacturers  had  for  not  adopting  this  wheel. 


LAPPET  NEEDLES  AND  PINS. 

Lappet  Needles  are  made  from  brass  or  iron  wire; 
iron  ones  are  the  best  and  cheapest,  but  sometimes  it  is 
necessary  to  use  brass  where  the  iron  has  a  tendency 
to  rust.  The  length  of  the  needles  is  about  3  J  inches, 
and  their  diameter  depends  upon  the  kind  of  work 
to  be  woven.  When  the  wire  has  been  cut  into  lengths 
to  form  the  needles,  one  of  the  points  of  each  wire  is 


212  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

flattened,  and  into  the  flattened  part  is  put  the  hole  for 
the  whip  ;  the  other  end  of  the  wire  is  merely  rounded 
a  little.  It  is  important  to  have  the  ends  of  the  needles 
where  the  whip  goes  through,  made  very  smooth,  and 
well  pointed;  otherwise  they  would  break  the  yarn. 
The  pins  are  made  of  wire  the  same  as  the  needles,  but 
stronger  and  shorter,  with  no  holes  in  them;  their  use 
will  appear  further  on. 


LAPPET  LAY. 

The  Lappet  Lay  for  a  power-loom  is  similar  in  many 
respects  to  a  common  lay,  and  what  has  to  be  ex- 
plained here  is  the  apparatus  attached  to  it,  for  the 
purpose  of  making  it  a  lappet  lay.  In  the  first  place, 
the  reed  requires  to  be  placed  about  2  inches  back  from 
the  race,  to  allow  room  for  the  frames  to  work  in  front 
of  it;  and  as  the  whip  has  to  come  through  below  the 
reed,  a  thin  iron  groove  is  bolted  on  the  lay,  for  the 
pupose  of  holding  the  under  rim  of  the  reed.  To  answer 
this  position  of  the  reed,  the  top  shell  is  bolted  on  to  the 
back  of  the  swords  of  the  lay,  instead  of  the  front. 

The  pin  frame,  which  is  very  like  a  heddle  shaft,  is 
made  to  work  as  near  the  race  as  it  can  be  got,  and  is 
kept  in  its  position  by  brass  slides  fixed  on  the  swords. 
The  use  of  the  pin  frame  is  to  guide  the  shuttle  along 
the  lay,  in  absence  of  the  reed.  On  the  sole  of  the  lay, 
2  cast  iron  brackets  are  hung,  for  the  shifters  to  work 


THE  AKT  OF  WEAVING.  213 

in.  These  brackets  have  small  friction  rollers  in  them, 
for  the  edge  of  the  shifters  to  bear  upon.  The  shifters 
are  made  of  wood  about  1J  inch  broad,  and  f  thick,  the 
length  of  them  being  regulated  by  the  breadth  of  the  lay, 
and  opposite  the  reed  space,  are  placed  2  brass  uprights 
on  each  shifter  for  guiding  the  needle  frames.  The 
needle  frames  are  also  1J  inch  broad,  and  §  thick, 
with  brass  tips  on  their  ends  made  to  fit  the  uprights 
on  the  shifters. 

For  illustration,  suppose  that  the  lay  be  made  for 
working  3  frames,  then  it  will  require  3  shifters ;  and 
on  the  top  of  each  stump  or  sword  will  be  fixed  a  small 
brander,  with  3  slits  in  each,  for  the  points  of  the  up- 
rights to  work  in.  The  needle  frames  are  made  to  fit 
exactly  in  between  the  uprights  of  the  shifters,  and 
they  must  slide  up  and  down  easily,  without  having 
any  play  endways.  If  this  is  not  attended  to,  the 
figure  made  on  the  cloth  with  the  whip  will  not  be 
properly  formed. 

The  frames  being  all  fitted,  as  far  as  the  moving  parts 
of  them  are  concerned,  the  next  process  is,  the  marking  off 
on  the  edges  of  the  needle  shafts  how  the  needles  are  to  be 
arranged.  After  having  ascertained  the  number  of  splits 
the  flower  will  occupy,  and  the  number  of  times  it  is  to 
be  repeated  on  the  breadth  of  the  cloth,  the  workman 
makes  a  mark  for  each  needle  with  a  pair  of  small 
dividers,  which  are  set  to  answer  the  figure.  When 
the  same  figure  is  to  be  woven  in  a  number  of  looms, 


214  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

it  saves  time  to  mark  off  one  shaft  correctly,  and  keep 
it  for  marking  the  rest  from;  this  is  done  by  catch- 
ing the  shafts  that  are  to  be  marked  along  with  the 
pattern  shaft,  in  a  vice,  and  taking  a  small  square  and 
applying  it  to  the  pattern  shaft,  when  a  line  can  be 
drawn  across  the  whole  of  the  others,  and  these  lines 
will  show  where  the  needles  are  to  be  driven  into  the 
shaft.  When  the  quantity  of  needles  that  are  required 
have  been  driven  into  the  shafts,  each  shaft  is  put 
on  to  its  respective  shifter,  and  the  pecks  which  work 
in  the  grooves  of  the  wheel  are  set.  On  the  end  of  each 
shifter  there  is  a  small  brass  nob  with  a  pinching  pin, 
for  the  purpose  of  holding  the  pecks;  it  is  by  this 
pinching  pin  that  the  frames  are  adjusted  endways. 

The  wheel  and  the  frames  being  placed  in  the  lay, 
the  articles  employed  for  shifting  the  frames  can  now 
be  applied;  and  the  different  plans  that  hand-loom 
weavers  have  for  this  purpose  are  very  numerous, 
which  does  not  require  an  explanation  here,  as  the 
movements  will  be  readily  understood,  when  they  are 
described  for  the  power-loom;  suffice  it  to  say,  that 
what  is  done  by  machinery  in  the  power-loom  the 
hand-loom  weaver  performs  with  his  hands  or  feet; 
indeed  many  of  the  things  used  in  the  first  power- 
looms  for  lappets  are  very  similar  to  what  are 
employed  by  hand-loom  weavers. 

In  making  arrangements  for  the  different  move- 
ments, it  must  be  taken  into  consideration  the  time  that 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  215 

the  movements  should  take  place,  and  also  the  pro- 
portion of  time  they  should  occupy.  In  the  best  made 
lappet  looms  the  wyper  shaft  extends  from  the  one  end 
of  the  loom  to  the  other,  and  on  each  end  of  the  wyper 
shaft  there  is  a  cam  for  working  the  needle  frames 
endways;  these  cams  are  so  fixed  on  the  shaft,  that 
when  the  full  edge  of  one  is  up  the  other  is  down. 
For  each  shifter  there  is  a  small  iron  lever,  the  weight 
of  which  is  sufficient  to  shift  the  frame;  attached  to 
the  end  of  each  lever  is  a  leather  strap  or  cord,  which 
passes  up  and  through  the  cast  iron  bracket  on  the  sole 
of  the  lay,  and  the  other  end  of  the  strap  is  fastened 
to  a  shifter  with  a  small  screw-nail.  The  straps  are 
adjusted  so  as  the  levers  will  hang  with  their  weight 
upon  them  when  the  full  part  of  the  cam  is  down. 

When  the  reed  comes  forward  to  the  face  of  the 
cloth,  all  the  needles  must  be  down  below  the  level  of 
the  race  of  the  lay,  and  this  is  the  time  the  needle 
frames  are  shifted  endways,  the  needles  being  all  clear 
of  the  warp  of  the  Web.  If  the  lay  has  seven  inches 
of  a  traverse,  the  needles  should  be  full  down  when 
the  reed  is  half  an  inch  from  the  fell  of  the  cloth,  and 
they  should  not  begin  to  rise  until  the  reed  has  re- 
ceded from  the  fell  of  the  cloth  another  inch. 

Many  of  the  lappet  looms  are  very  defective  in  not 
having  a  proper  apparatus  for  lifting  the  needle 
frames;  most  of  them  being  lifted  by  the  motion  of 
the  lay;  and  although  this  mode  is  simple  in  itself, 


216  THEORY  A!NT>  PRACTICE  OF 

that  accuracy,  which  is  necessary  for  the  movements 
of  the  needles  cannot  be  obtained;  for  the  needles  will 
not  be  at  their  highest  point  of  elevation  until  the  lay 
is  full  back,  whereas  they  should  be  full  up  at  the 
instant  the  shuttle  begins  to  enter  the  shed.  It  is  an 
easy  matter  with  the  movement  of  the  lay,  to  have  the 
needles  sufficiently  high  before  the  shuttle  enters  the 
shed;  but  they  will  continue  to  ascend,  while  the  lay 
moves  back,  which  will  put  unnecessary  strain  upon 
the  whip,  therefore,  it  is  better  to  have  them  lifted  by 
a  wvper  or  cam  made  for  the  purpose. 

To  make  a  cam  for  lifting  the  needles,  first  draw  a 
circle  on  a  piece  of  wood  which  has  been  planed 
smooth,  say  7  inches  in  diameter,  the  circumference 
of  which  will  be  22  inches,  divide  this  circle  into  88 
equal  parts,  then  draw  a  line  from  each  part  to  the 
centre  of  the  circle;  and  as  stated  before,  the  needles 
should  be  down  when  the  reed  wants  half  an  inch  from 
the  fell  of  the  cloth,  and  remain  down  until  the  reed 
has  receded  another  inch,  which  will  make  1^  inch. 
The  cam  being  placed  on  the  under  shaft,  which  makes 
one  revolution  for  two  picks,  it  will  require  to  be 
similar  in  shape  to  the  cam  G,  in  Figure  2,  Plate  I. ; 
consequently,  one  revolution  of  the  cam  will  lift  the 
needles  for  two  shots.  It  will  be  evident  that  for  one 
revolution  of  the  top  shaft,  4-1  parts  of  the  88  will 
have  passed  a  given  point,  and  as  the  needle  frames 
should  remain  up  for  the  time  that  the  top  shaft  will 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  217 

take  to  make  a  half  turn;  tliia  will  take  22  parts,  and 
6  parts  for  the  needles,  to  remain  down,  will  leave  16 
parts;  8  to  lift  the  needles,  and  8  to  allow  them  to 
fall,  making  in  all  44 ;  the  other  half  of  the  earn  is 
divided  in  the  same  way,  which  makes  up  the  whole 
88  parts. 

Suppose,  now,  that  a  circle  be  drawn  on  the  piece  of 
wood  3 J  inches  in  diameter  inside  the  other  circle; 
this  will  leave  If  inch  for  the  lift  of  the  cam,  which 
is  divided  into  8  equal  parts  on  one  of  the  radius  lines, 
making  a  mark  for  each  division.  A  pair  of  dividers 
are  now  taken,  and  one  leg  placed  in  the  centre  of  the 
circle,  and  the  other  on  the  first  mark  in  the  radius 
line;  the  dividers  are  now  turned  round,  and  a  mark 
made  on  each  of  the  first  lines  in  the  four  divisions, 
and  so  on  with  the  others.  When  this  is  done,  each 
mark  can  be  joined  by  drawing  a  pencil  line  from  the 
one  to  the  other,  which  will  give  the  proper  curves 
for  the  cam.  The  foregoing  description  shows  the 
principle  upon  which  all  cams  or  wypers  are  made. 
The  same  principle  will  do  for  drawing  hearts  for  wind- 
ing and  dressing  machines,  and  it  will  be  obvious  to 
the  practical  weaver,  that  nothing  can  be  better  adapted 
for  lifting  the  lappet  needles  than  a  cam  drawn  upon 
this  plan,  as  they  can  be  made  to  work  to  any  amount 
of  accuracy. 

The  cams  for  lifting  the  levers  that  move  the  frames 
endways,  are  of  a  different  shape  from  the  one  that 


218  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

lifts  them,  and  may  be  understood  from  the  following 
observations.  Let  the  reader  remember  what  has  been 
stated  before,  that  the  frames  must  be  shifted  endways, 
exactly  at  the  time  when  the  needles  are  clear  of  the 
warp  yarn,  and,  that  that  time  cannot  be  more  than 
the  seventh  part  of  the  time,  which  is  occupied  by 
one  revolution  of  the  crank  shaft,  and  from  this  data 
the  form  of  the  cams  will  be  found. 

The  lappet  wheel  requires  to  be  moved  forward  one 
tooth  every  second  shot,  which  is  done  by  an  article 
called  a  "stamper;"  this  is  a  flat  piece  of  iron  placed 
in  slides  facing  the  edge  of  the  wheel  next  the  Web. 
The  power  applied  for  shifting  the  wheel  is  in  general 
a  spring  of  the  spiral  kind  attached  to  the  slide,  which 
spring  is  adjusted  to  give  just  as  much  power  as  turn  the 
wheel.  The  wheel  on  the  end  of  the  wyper  shaft  is  cast 
with  a  slit  in  it,  into  which  is  placed  a  small  pulley  for 
working  the  lever  that  lifts  the  stamper.  When  the 
cams  that  work  the  levers  for  shifting  the  frames  end- 
wavs,  are  in  a  mid  position,  neither  up  nor  down,  this 
is  the  time  the  lappet  wheel  should  be  shifted,  because 
at  this  point  the  strain  of  the  pecks  on  the  grooves  in 
the  lappet  wheel  is  taken  off.  The  reason  for  not 
shifting  the  lappet  wheel  direct  from  the  loom  is,  that 
if  any  obstruction  takes  place  to  retard  its  motion  it 
is  not  forced  round  beyond  the  power  of  the  spring. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  219 

STARTING  THE  WEB. 

The  Web  is  put  into  the  loom,  and  plain  cloth  made 
before  the  whip  is  drawn  through  the  eyes  of  the 
needles.  Below  the  yarn  beam,  on  each  side  of  the 
loom,  the  brackets  are  fixed  for  the  gudgeons  of  the 
whip  rolls  to  run  in;  each  needle  frame  requires  a  roll 
for  itself;  and  the  number  of  needles  in  the  frame, 
gives  the  number  of  ends  that  is  required  to  be  put  on 
the  roll.  After  the  whip  rolls  are  put  in  their  places, 
the  ends  are  taken  under  and  over  the  spring  cords, 
and  through  between  the  legs  of  the  heddles  at  the 
proper  intervals,  and  then  under  the  rim  of  the  reed, 
and  through  the  eyes  of  the  needles.  A  small  cord  is 
put  round  each  roll  for  the  purpose  of  pacing  the  whip. 
When  the  needle  frames  are  lifted,  a  quantity  of  whip 
will  be  drawn  off  the  rolls ;  and  when  they  descend  at 
the  time  the  reed  comes  forward  to  the  cloth  the  whip 
would  remain  slack  if  the  spring  cords  did  not  act 
upon  it,  and  the  spring  cords  must  be  so  adjusted,  that 
they  will  yield  to  the  lift  of  the  needles,  and  at  the 
same  time  have  spring  enough  to  take  up  the  slack 
of  the  whip. 

The  loom  can  now  be  put  on,  and  a  few  inches  of 
cloth  woven ;  this  is  the  best  time  to  see  that  all 
the  things  are  properly  set.  The  mounting  of  the 
heddles  is  done  in  the  same  manner  as  if  it  was  a  plain 
Web;  the  sheds  should  not  be  large,  and  the  eyes  of 


220  THEORY  AND  PEACTICE  OF 

the  needles  when  raised  should  not  be  higher  than  the 
upper  half  of  the  shed,  to  avoid  unnecessary  strain 
being  put  upon  the  whip,  but  they  must  be  raised  as 
high  as  to  allow  the  shuttle  to  pass  freely  under  the 
whip. 

Having   explained  how  common   lappet   cloth   is 
made,  and  the  different  parts   and   movements  for 
accomplishing   this,    a   description   of    some   of  the 
varieties  will  now  be  given.     It  will  readily  be  under- 
stood from  what  has  been  stated,  how  any  figure  of  a 
running  nature  can  be  made;  but  when  figures  that 
stand  detached  from  one  another  are  to  be  woven,  a 
different  arrangement  requires  to   be  made;  for  in- 
stance, if  a  sprig  is  to  be  woven  on  the  cloth,  and  each 
sprig  to  stand  at  a  distance  of  half  an  inch;  then  the 
frames  will  require  to  be  put  out  of  gear,  or  what  is 
called  in  the  trade,  dropped.     This  is  managed  in  the 
following  manner: — Upon  the  back  of  the  lappet  wheel 
near  to  its  circumference,  is  fixed  a  piece  of  wood  or 
iron,  of  sufficient  length  to  occupy  the  space  for  the 
number  of  teeth  that  will  be  required  for  the  half  inch 
of  cloth  which  intervenes  between  the  sprigs.     This 
piece  of  wood  or  iron  is  made  to  project  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  from  the  wheel,  and  in  some  con- 
venient place   a  small  lever  is  attached,  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  projection  on  the  wheel  can  act  upon 
it.     This  lever  may  be  made  to  work  either  in  a 
perpendicular  or  horizontal  position,  whatever  way 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  221 

the  form  of  the  loom  will  suit  best.  At  the  point  of 
this  lever  is  affixed  a  cord,  which  acts  upon  the 
apparatus  for  dropping  the  needles. 

As  already  observed,  the  needles  and  also  the  pin 
frame  for  guiding  the  shuttle,  rise  every  shot,  and 
suppose  all  the  3  needle  frames  are  to  be  dropped  at 
the  same  time,  it  will  be  obvious  that  the  pin  frame 
must  continue  to  work,  so  provision  must  be  made  to 
allow  the  needle  frames  to  discontinue  working  while 
the  pin  frame  works  on.  This  is  done  by  having  an 
intermediate  crank  or  catch,  which  is  attached  to  the 
lifting  rod  for  each  frame;  and  so  long  as  the  lappet 
wheel  does  not  indicate  that  the  frames  are  not  to  be 
lifted,  they  continue  to  rise;  but  when  the  wheel  comes 
round  to  that  part  where  the  frames  are  to  be  dropped, 
this  catch  is  drawn  to  one  side  and  does  not  act,  and 
the  needle  frames  are  not  lifted  so  long  as  the  wheel 
presses  upon  the  small  lever.  But  after  the  loom  has 
made  the  number  of  picks  necessary  for  the  interval 
of  half  an  inch  between  the  figures,  the  catches  are 
allowed  to  go  into  their  former  position,  and  the  frame 
again  rises  and  continues  to  work  until  the  time 
arrives  that  they  should  again  be  dropped. 

When  flowers  are  to  be  woven  which  have  different 
colours  in  them,  and  some  of  the  parts  being  detached 
from  the  main  figure  which  continues  to  work;  in  this 
case  some  of  the  frames  will  be  dropped,  while  the 
others  will  continue  to  work.     It  is  by  arranging  the 


222  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

frames  in  this  manner,  that  many   of  the  different 
varieties  may  be  woven. 


GAUZE  STRIPES,  &c. 

Gauze  stripes  are  frequently  made  in  lappet  cloth, 
which  goes  under  a  great  variety  of  names.  The 
principle  upon  which  they  are  all  woven  is  nearly  the 
same,  which  is  to  cross  the  warp  threads,  and  this  is 
sometimes  done  by  the  heddles  behind  the  reed,  and 
sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  have  the  heddles  before 
the  reed;  and  in  this  case  they  move  backwards  and 
towards  with  the  lay. 

Plain  gauze  may  be  said  to  be  the  foundation  of  all 
the  other  kinds;  and  when  it  is  properly  understood 
to  comprehend  the  other  kinds,  is  comparatively  easy. 
Suppose  a  plain  Web  drawn  upon  2  leaves  of  heddles, 
and  the  leaf  next  to  the  lay  or  fore  leaf  to  be  cut  away, 
and  the  back  leaf,  with  half  of  the  warp  of  the  Web  in 
it,  fixed  up  in  a  position  so  as  the  warp  threads  will  be 
high  enough  for  the  top  shed;  this  part  of  the  warp 
will  be  the  top  shed  for  every  shot  of  weft.  Now, 
suppose  the  yarn  that  was  in  the  fore  leaf,  to  be  drawn 
into  what  is  called  doups,  (which  is  the  under  part  of 
the  heddles) ;  these  doups  to  be  on  2  heddle  shafts, 
what  is  on  one  shaft  is  to  pass  over  the  warp  threads  from 
the  right ;  and  what  is  upon  the  other  from  the  left,  so 
as  the  warp  will  form  a  shed  for  the  shuttle  to  run 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  223 

through,  first  on  the  one  side,  and  then  on  the  other, 
alternately,  and  this  will  make  plain  gauze.  To  weave 
gauze  in  this  manner,  it  will  be  necessary  that  the  back 
leaf  be  placed  at  a  sufficient  distance  from  the  doups, 
so  as  to  allow  the  warp  threads  to  cross  without  being 
too  much  strained. 

Needles  may  be  used  for  making  gauze,  and  for  some 
kinds  very  advantageously,  if  two  needle  shafts,  such 
as  is  used  for  lappets,  be  taken,  and  each  shaft  to  have  as 
many  needles  in  it  as  will  contain  half  of  the  warp  that 
is  in  the  Web,  and  if  these  shafts  be  placed  in  a  frame 
immediately  behind  the  lay,  one  shaft  with  the  points 
of  the  needles  up,  and  the  other  with  the  points  of  the 
needles  down,  and  if  these  needle  shafts  are  made  to 
move  up  and  down;  and  one  of  them  to  move  a  little 
endways,  (at  the  time  the  two  halves  of  the  warp  are  clear 
of  each  other,)  for  the  purpose  of  crossing  the  warp 
threads ;  if  the  top  shaft  with  its  needles  descend  1J 
inch,  and  the  under  one  ascend  1J  inch,  a  shed  will  be 
formed  of  2  J  inches,  allowing  half  an  inch  for  the  yarn 
in  the  eyes  of  the  needles  to  be  clear,  at  the  time  the 
frame  is  shifted  endways. 

By  adopting  the  needles  and  frames  for  working  gauze 
in  the  way  described,  it  will  be  easy  to  imagine  how 
any  kind  of  gauze  or  net  work  may  be  woven,  as  all 
the  different  varieties  depend  upon  how  the  warp 
threads  are  crossed;  and  that  crossing  just  depends 
upon  how  the  needle  frames  are  shifted  endways,  which 


224  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

can  be  done  with  a  very  simple  apparatus,  such  as  a 
lappet  wheel,  or  barrel.  And  for  extensive  patterns, 
such  as  those  used  for  shawls  and  scarfs,  the  use  of  the 
jacquard  machine  may  be  taken  advantage  of,  for 
regulating  the  shift  of  the  needles,  when  there  would 
be  no  end  to  the  variety  that  might  be  produced.  But 
it  must  be  understood,  that  when  more  threads  are  to 
be  crossed  than  what  is  contained  in  one  split,  the  needle 
frames  must  be  made  to  work  before  the  reed,  and  be- 
hind the  race  of  the  lay.  It  will  also  be  obvious,  that 
if  a  number  of  these  needle  frames  be  employed  in  the 
same  manner  as  heddle  levers  are,  for  tweeling,  a  still 
greater  variety  of  patterns  may  be  woven. 

In  working  with  a  number  of  needle  frames  where  the 
crossings  of  the  warp  are  unequal,  it  will  not  do  to  have 
all  the  warp  of  the  Web  on  one  beam,  so  that  the  work- 
man will  require  to  consider  the  extent  of  the  shift  for 
each  frame,  and  get  beams  warped  for  these  frames; 
which  require  more  or  less  warp  than  what  is  required 
for  the  common  crossings.  It  may  be  difficult  to  get  at 
the  exact  length  of  the  warp  for  each  frame,  when  start- 
ing a  new  pattern ;  but  after  the  first  Web  is  woven,  it 
will  be  easy  to  find  the  proper  quantity  for  each  beam 
by  keeping  a  note  of  the  length  first  warped,  and  then 
measuring  the  yarn  that  is  left  on  the  beams,  after  the 
whole  of  the  yarn  has  been  woven  off  one  of  them;  (that 
is,  when  one  of  the  beams  is  out). 

The  plan  or  method  of  working  the  needle  frames  is 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  22fc 

as  follows : — To  shift  the  frames  endways,  has  been 
already  explained,  which  is  done  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  needle  frames  for  lappets.  The  sinking  and  ris- 
ing of  the  frames  can  be  best  done  by  having  a  roller 
above  and  one  below  the  needle  shafts,  and  the  shaft 
attached  to  these  rollers  in  the  same  way  as  common 
heddles;  so  that  when  the  one  rises  the  other  will 
descend.  To  accomplish  this  every  shot  a  wyper  can 
be  put  on  the  end  of  the  crank  shaft,  which  makes  one 
revolution  for  every  shot,  or  a  double  cam  or  wyper 
(of  the  same  kind  as  shown  at  G,  in  Plate  I.,  Figure  2,) 
can  be  put  on  the  under  shaft,  which  makes  only  one 
revolution  for  every  two  shots,  and  this  cam  will  work  a 
treadle,  to  be  put  in  connection  with  one  of  the  rollers, 
that  when  the  treadle  is  depressed  by  the  cam,  the  shed 
will  be  formed.  But  as  there  is  only  one  treadle  to  work 
the  frames  up  and  down,  a  spring  or  weight  must  be 
used  to  close  the  shed,  or  bring  the  frames  back  to  the 
position  they  occupied  before  the  shed  was  formed. 
If  the  spring  or  weight  be  objectionable,  and  in  some 
eases  it  may,  then  a  cam  can  be  put  on  the  shaft  that 
Mill  work  the  treadle  both  up  and  down. 

When  the  Web  is  very  fine  great  care  must  be 
taken  to  have  the  needles  properly  set  into  their 
frames,  for  if  this  be  not  attended  to,  the  figure  will 
not  be  formed  according  to  the  design. 

It  has  already  been  stated,  that  the  jacquard  machine 
might  be  employed  for  gauze  work.     We  will  now 


226  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

endeavour  to  explain  how  it  can  be  applied  both  for 
gauze  and  lappets.  Suppose,  for  example,  the  figure 
requires  the  frames  to  have  a  range  of  10  inches  end- 
ways; and  at  the  end  of  the  lay,  where  the  lappet 
wheel  is  usually  placed,  instead  of  the  wheel,  there  is 
fixed  a  pair  of  hole  boards,  of  the  same  set  as  the  reed 
or  Web  that  is  to  be  woven.  These  hole  boards  are 
fixed  with  their  edges  towards  the  lay,  and  the  one 
above  the  other  about  half  an  inch  apart,  and  their  holes 
right  opposite.  If  the  Web  to  be  woven  be  a  10°°, 
there  will  be  270  holes  in  each  board,  that  is  allowing 
each  hole  to  occupy  a  space  equal  to  a  split  in  a  10°° 
reed.  Into  each  of  the  holes  in  the  top  board  is  put  a 
piece  of  wire  like  a  lappet  needle,  with  its  eye  up, 
which  is  allowed  to  drop  into  the  hole  directly  below 
in  the  under  board;  the  under  board  having  a  piece 
of  thin  wood  fixed  on  its  under  side,  for  the  purpose 
of  preventing  the  wires  from  falling  through.  The 
jacquard  machine  is  placed  in  any  convenient  part 
above  the  loom,  and  small  cords  are  attached  to  each 
of  the  vires,  and  then  tied  to  the  tail  cords  of  the 
jacquard  machine  in  the  same  manner  as  in  tying  a 
harness,  each  wire  having  a  tail  cord  for  itself.  Con- 
sequently, there  will  be  270  of  the  needles  of  the 
j  acquard  machine  employed. 

In  this  arrangement,  a  peck  is  used  for  guiding  the 
frames,  similar  to  those  used  with  the  lappet  wheel; 
but  that  part  of  it  which  works  in  the  groove  of  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  227 

wheel  is  made  much  longer,  as  the  length  of  it  must 
be  equal  to  the  breadth  of  the  boards  that  hold  the 
wires.  The  figure  to  be  woven  must  be  drawn  on 
design  paper,  in  the  same  manner  as  it  is  drawn  for 
lappet  weaving,  and  the  cards  cut,  so  as  the  wires  will 
be  lifted  to  form  the  space  for  the  peck  to  work  in,  in 
the  same  manner  as  forming  the  groove  in  the  lappet 
wheel.  The  principle  of  the  lappet  wheel  has  been  al- 
ready explained.  However,  in  working  lappets  with  the 
jacquard  machine,  the  length  of  the  figure  will  depend 
upon  the  number  of  cards  used,  and  any  quantity  can 
be  employed,  if  there  be  room  to  hold  them.  The 
machine  will  require  to  be  lifted  every  second  shot,  and 
remain  up  for  the  two  shots;  the  same  length  of  time 
that  the  common  lappet  wheel  stands  unmoved  by  the 
stamper.  How  to  accomplish  this  will  be  understood 
by  referring  to  the  description  given  of  the  disengaging 
apparatus,  at  page  157,  also  page  192. 


SEWING  FRAMES  FOR  LOOMS. 

There  is  a  species  of  figured  work  done  in  the  loom 
with  what  is  called  sewing  frames,  which  may  be  very 
appropriately  explained  in  this  chapter,  although  it 
does  not  come  under  the  name  of  lappets.  To  per- 
sons unacquainted  with  weaving,  some  of  the  figures 
done  in  the  lappet  loom  look  very  like  those  done  by 
the  sewing  frames,  but  they  are  very  different,  and  the 


328  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

name  given  to  this  kind  of  weaving  (sewing  frames), 
implies  that  it  comes  nearer  to  sewed  work  done  by 
the  hand  than  any  other  done  in  the  loom. 

Many  a  contrivance  has  been  planned,  and  put  into 
operation,   for  this   species  of  weaving ;   but  before 
describing  any  particular  one,   it  will  be  better  to 
explain  the  principle  upon  which  this  kind  of  sew- 
ing is  done.    It  is  a  matter  of  choice  what  the  ground 
of  the  cloth  should  be  where  the  figures  are  to  be 
sewed  on  ;  it  may  be  either  plain,  or  tweeled,  or  both. 
But  suppose  it  to  be  a  plain  ground,  and  the  figure  to 
be  sewed  a  small  spot  or  sprig,  which  will  occupy  a 
space  on  the  cloth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  and  the 
sewing  thread  to  be  all  on  the  one  side  of  the  cloth  ; 
in  this  case  one  thread  of  the  warp,  or  at  most  two.  is 
lifted  at  each  side,  where  the  edge  of  the  spot  or  sprig 
is  to  be  formed,  and  the  sewing  thread  put  through, 
below  them.    After  this  the  plain  shed  is  formed,  and 
a  shot  of  weft  is  thrown  for  the  plain  ground,  then 
the  warp  threads   at  the  edge  of  the  spot  or  sprig- 
is  lifted  again  and  the  sewing  thread  put  through, 
then  a  plain  shot  of  weft,  and  so  on  alternately.      If 
the  sewing  thread  is  to  be  shown  on  both  sides  of  the 
cloth,  then  as  much  of  the  warp  is  lifted  as  will  make 
the  extent  of  the  figure,  which,  in  this  case,  is  a  quar- 
ter of  an  inch,  and  the  sewing  thread  is  put  through 
below  it.  then  the  plain  shot  of  weft  is  put  in,  next 
the  sewing  thread  is  put  above  the  same  warp  threads 


THE  ART  OP  WEAVING.  229 

as  it  went  below  before,  and  so  on  alternately ;  this  is 
the  principle  upon  which  sewing  is  done  in  the  looms. 
A  description  will  now  be  given  of  some  of  the 
plans  that  have  been  adopted  for  putting  in  the  sewing 
thread.  In  this  kind  of  weaving  it  has  been  found 
advantageous,  in  almost  all  instances,  to  use  the 
jacquard  machine  for  forming  the  figures,  and,  for 
simplicity,  it  is  better  to  use  it  alone,  allowing  both 
the  ground  of  the  cloth  and  the  figures  to  be  made  by 
the  jacquard  machine.  This  plan  may  cause  a  little 
more  expense  for  harness  twine  and  cords,  but  it  is 
by  far  the  most  simple  way  for  the  weaver,  as  he  has 
only  to  work  the  one  treadle  ;  whereas,  if  a  separate 
mounting  was  put  up  for  making  the  ground  of  the 
cloth,  he  would  have  to  work  the  extra  quantity  of 
treadles  which  that  ground  may  require.  The  figure 
having  been  drawn  on  design  paper,  and  the  extent 
of  the  tye  fixed  on,  the  cutting  of  the  cards  and  the 
mounting  of  the  harness  is  proceeded  with  in  the 
sune  manner  as  for  a  full  harness,  which  is  explained 
under  "  Full  Harness,"  the  only  difference  being  that 
the  ground  cards,  and  those  used  for  the  figures,  will 
require  to  be  laced  in  such  a  manner  that  a  figuring 
and  a  ground  card  will  act  upon  the  needles  of  the 
jacquard  machine  alternately,  so  as  the  warp  of  the 
web  will  be  raised  to  answer  both  for  the  ground  and 
the  figure  when  required. 

One  kind  of  sewing  frame  consists  of  a  flat  rod  of 


230  THEORY  AND  PEACTICE  OF 

wood  placed  in  front  of  the  top  shell  of  the  lay,  on 
which  are  fixed  the  small  brackets  for  holding  the 
shuttles  with  the  sewing  thread.  These  brackets  are 
arranged  to  suit  the  number  of  figures  which  is  to  be 
sewed  on  the  breadth  of  the  cloth,  and  between  each 
bracket  a  space  is  left  of  sufficient  extent  for  the 
range  of  the  figure.  The  bracket  itself  is  a  little 
broader  than  the  shuttle  is  long,  but  the  size  of  both 
the  shuttle  and  bracket,  and  also  the  space  that  is 
between  the  brackets,  depend  on  the  size  of  the  figure 
to  be  woven,  and  also  the  quantity  of  figures  in  the 
breadth  of  the  cloth.  When  the  weaver  has  formed 
the  shed  for  the  sewing  shuttles,  the  lay  is  put  back, 
and  the  sewing  frame  depressed  so  as  to  allow  the 
small  shuttles  to  be  thrown  through  the  shed,  from 
one  bracket  to  another ;  this  is  done  by  shifting 
another  rod  endways,  which  is  placed  along  the  top 
shell,  all  the  shuttles  are  moved  simultaneously,  each 
having  a  lever  attached  to  the  rod.  The  frame  is 
now  raised  out  from  the  warp,  and  the  lay  brought 
forward  to  the  fell  of  the  cloth,  and  the  shed  made 
for  the  ground  shot,  which  is  next  put  in,  then  the 
shed  for  the  figure,  when  the  frame  is  again  depressed 
as  before,  and  the  small  shuttle  thrown  back  into  the 
brackets  they  were  first  moved  from,  next  a  ground 
shot,  and  so  on,  a  shot  for  the  figure  and  one  for  the 
ground  alternately.  If  the  sewing  thread  is  to  appear 
on  both  sides  of  the  cloth  the  same,  the  small  shuttle, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  231 

after  being  thrown  through  the  shed  and  raised  up 
from  the  warp,  is  shifted  back  to  the  other  bracket 
before  the  frame  is  again  depressed  for  the  next  shot. 

Another  plan  of  the  sewing  frame  is,  instead  of  the 
brackets  and  small  shuttles,  to  have  a  number  of 
small  copper  pieces,  about  1\  inch  in  diameter,  and 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  hollow  in  the  centre,  and 
formed  like  a  half  moon,  or  the  letter,  C  ;  into  the 
inside  of  the  copper  circle  is  put  the  sewing  thread, 
and  the  warp  threads  being  also  brought  up  into  the 
inside,  or  hollow  part  of  the  circle,  through  the  open- 
ing in  its  edge,  the  copper  is  made  to  make  one  revo- 
lution, and  by  doing  so  takes  the  sewing  thread  under 
the  warp  threads.  The  circles  or  copper  pieces  are 
made  to  turn  by  a  rack  fixed  on  the  top  shell  of  the 
lay,  the  teeth  of  the  rack  gearing  into  small  pins  that 
project  from  the  sides  of  the  copper  pieces.  When 
the  weaver  is  working  he  shifts  this  rack  with  the 
same  hand  as  he  works  the  lay,  in  the  same  way  as  a 
check  weaver  changes  the  shuttle  box,  and  with  as 
little  trouble ;  as  there  is  a  stopper  fixed  on  the  top 
shell  to  prevent  it  from  going  too  far,  either  to  the 
one  side  or  the  other,  but  just  to  allow  it  to  have  as 
much  traverse  as  to  turn  the  circles  once  round. 
This  plan  does  not  admit  of  having  the  sewing  thread 
shown  on  both  sides  of  the  cloth. 

There  is  another  method,  which  in  some  respects 
is  very  like  the  one  first  explained,     It  is  superior  to 


232  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

any  of  the  others  for  working  spots.  When  the  space 
between  the  spots  is  not  more  than  one  inch,  instead 
of  a  small  shuttle  being  used,  as  in  the  first  plan,  a 
small  brass  tube  is  employed,  made  in  shape  similar 
to  a  common  bottle,  the  neck  of  the  bottle  answering 
for  the  eye  of  the  shuttle ;  the  sewing  thread  is  put 
into  the  tube  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  neck,  and 
then  the  end  closed  up,  by  screwing  in  a  small  piece 
of  brass  plate.  These  Tubes  lie  loose  on  the  small 
brackets,  which  are  depressed  into  the  warp,  and  are 
made  to  roll  through  the  shed,  from  the  one  bracket 
to  the  other ;  the  brackets  are  made  a  little  hollow,  so 
as  the  tubes  will  not  fall  off  them  by  the  vibration  of 
the  lay.  By  using  the  tubes  the  spots  can  be  shown 
on  both  sides  of  the  cloth,  if  required. 

It  may  be  noticed  here,  that  this  kind  of  weaving 
has  not  yet  been  applied  to  the  power-loom  with  any 
advantage  ;  and  from  the  nature  of  the  work,  and  the 
low  price  of  hand-loom  labour,  it  is  not  likely  to  be  a 
profitable  job  for  the  power-loom  for  a  long  time  to 
come,  unless  some  plan  be  invented  very  different 
from  any  of  those  kinds  known  at  present.  All  the 
different  movements  that  are  required  in  this  species 
of  weaving  can  easily  be  done  in  the  power-loom,  but 
the  difiicult  part  is,  to  get  some  contrivance  which 
would  keep  all  the  small  shuttles  working  properly, 
and  stop  the  loom  the  instant  that  any  one  of  them 
requires  to  be  refilled  with  the  sewing  thread ;  even 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  283 

this  might  be  accomplished,  but  then  the  small  quan- 
tity that  each  shuttle  holds  would  cause  the  loom  to 
be  so  frequently  stopped,  that  it  would  not  pay. 
However,  no  one  knows  what  may  be  done. 


D\ 


234  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


CHAPTER  VII. 
MOUNTING  FOR  TWEELS,  DIAPERS,  &c. 

"What  is  meant  here  by  mountings  is  the  articles  or 
apparatus  used  for  moving  the  heddle  leaves  to  form 
the  sheds  of  the  web,  such  as  wypers,  cams,  barrels, 
rollers,  &c. 

In  Chapter  II.  a  number  of  draughts  are  given, 
and  the  treading  for  the  same,  of  different  kinds  of 
tweels  and  diapers.  A  description  will  now  be  given 
of  some  of  the  best  mountings  for  working  the  hed- 
dles,  commencing  with  the  three  leaf  tweel.  If  the 
cloth  to  be  woven  is  of  that  nature  which  does  not 
require  the  warp  to  be  spread  (that  is,  all  the  warp 
threads  standing  at  equal  distances  from  each  other), 
then  a  common  wyper,  with  three  arms,  will  do  for 
working  the  treadles  ;  but  if  the  warp  is  to  be  spread, 
then  the  wyper  requires  to  be  made  so  as  at  least  one 
of  the  heddle  leaves  will  be  always  down.  How  to 
obtain  this,  and  make  it  understood,  it  will  be 
requisite  to  make  a  few  remarks  about  the  speed  of 
the  tweeling  shaft. 

The  shaft  for  a  three  leaf  tweel  makes  one  revolu- 
tion for  every  three  picks  or  shots,  or  one  for  three  of 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  235 

the  top  shaft ;  but  the  tweeling  shafts  are  in  general 
driven  from  the  under  shaft,  which  makes  one  revo- 
lution for  two  of  the  top  one,  so  the  wheel  and 
pinion  will  require  to  be  in  the  same  proportion  as 
two  to  three.  For  example,  if  the  pinion  on  the 
under  shaft  lias  40  teeth,  the  wheel  on  the  tweeling 
shaft  will  require  to  have  60  teeth.  The  proper  time 
for  the  shed  to  be  full  open,  is  the  time  the  top  will 
take  to  make  a  half  turn.  It  is  explained  in  the  last 
chapter,  how  the  proper  curve  is  found  for  cams  and 
wypers,  and  it  has  only  to  be  stated  here  the  number 
of  parts  that  will  be  required  to  form  the  circle  of  the 
wyper. 

To  find  the  proper  form  for  a  wyper  of  this  kind, 
divide  a  circle  into  twelve  equal  parts  of  a  given 
diameter,  which  diameter  will  depend  upon  the  size 
of  the  wyper  wanted ;  4  parts  of  the  twelve  will  be 
required  for  each  shot  (or  one  revolution  of  the  top 
shaft),  1  part  to  open  the  shed,  2  parts  to  keep  it  full 
open,  and  1  part  to  close  it.  But  for  this  kind  of 
cloth  there  is  at  least  always  one  of  the  heddle  leaves 
down,  and  for  this  purpose  the  wyper  will  require  to 
have  6  parts  of  the  circle  for  its  largest  circumference, 
the  other  6  parts  divided  into  their  proper  propor- 
tions for  opening  and  shutting  the  shed,  and  the 
small  circle  of  the  wyper.  All  the  three  wypers  are 
made  alike,  and  may  be  cast  in  one  piece,  if  thought 
proper.     However,  some  people  prefer  having  all  the 


236  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

three  a  little  different,  for  the  purpose  of  making  the 
middle  leaf  rise  a  little  higher  than  the  fore  one,  and 
the  back  leaf  a  little  higher  than  the  mid  one,  but 
there  is  no  use  for  this  difference,  as  the  object  can  be 
better  obtained  by  the  treadles. 

The  best  position  for  the  tweeting  shaft  is  in  front 
of  the  low  shaft  of  the  loom,  right  below  the  heddles, 
and  as  far  off  the  centre  of  the  loom  as  will  allow  the 
points  of  the  treadles  to  come  fair  below  the  centre  of 
the  heddle  shafts,  where  the  treadles  and  heddles  are 
connected.  The  tweeling  shaft  will,  in  this  case,  be 
driven  by  bevel  gear. 

The  top  mounting  for  this  three  leaf  tweel,  con- 
sists of  2  rollers,  the  one  above  the  other ;  the  top 
one  has  a  wooden  or  iron  pulley  on  each  end,  like  a 
cone  with  two  steps,  the  small  diameter  of  the  cone  is 
1^  inch,  the  large  one  is  3  inches,  and  it  is  hung 
in  brackets  from  the  top  rail  of  the  loom.  On  to  the 
small  parts  of  the  cone  are  fixed  leather  straps,  with 
hooks  for  hanging  the  under  roller,  which  is  just  the 
same  as  those  used  for  plain  cloth,  two  of  the  heddle 
leaves  are  hung  from  the  under  roller  in  the  usual 
way,  the  other  leaf  is  hung  by  straps  which  are  fixed 
to  the  large  part  of  the  cone  on  the  upper  roller ; 
from  the  nature  of  this  top  mounting,  the  warp  in  the 
heddle  leaf,  which  is  lifted,  will  rise  through  double 
the  space  of  what  the  warp  in  the  sinking  leaves  will 
descend.     If  the  shed  wanted  be  3  inches,  when  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  237 

two  leaves  have  been  depressed  1  inch  the  other  leaf 
will  have  risen  2  inches ;  so  the  person  who  puts  the 
web  in  the  loom  will  require  to  take  this  into  consi- 
deration when  mounting  the  heddles. 

Many  other  kinds  of  mountings  are  used  for  work- 
ing three  leaf  tweels,  which  will  be  taken  notice  of 
farther  on,  but  the  one  explained  is  considered  among 
the  best  for  that  kind  of  cloth  which  requires  to  be 
spread. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  FOUR  LEAF  TWEEL. 

By  refering  to  No.  5,  page  82,  the  tread  of  a  four 
leaf  tweel  will  be  seen,  and  what  is  said  there  about 
it  will  show  how  the  wypers  (we  are  about  to  explain) 
should  be  placed  on  the  tweeling  shaft. 

For  stout  cloth  such  as  sheeting,  it  is  better  to  use 
wypers  than  the  common  barrel,  and  they  are  made 
on  the  same  principle  as  the  three  leaf  wyper,  with 
this  difference,  that  the  heddle  leaves  are  allowed  to 
come  even  every  shot.  The  form  of  the  wyper  will 
be  found  by  dividing  a  circle  into  16  equal  parts,  and 
following  the  directions  already  given  for  drawing- 
cams  and  wypers. 

The  tweeling  shaft  with  its  wypers  is  placed  in  the 
loom,  in  the  same  position  as  that  explained  for  the 
three  leaf  tweel,  and  is  driven  by  a  bevel  wheel  and 
pinion  of  the  proportion  of  1  to  2;  because  the  tweeling 


238  THEORY  AXD  PEACTICE  OF 

shaft  makes  only  1  revolution  for  4  of  the  top  or  crank 
shaft.  In  the  example  given  for  the  three  leaves,  the 
pinion  has  40  teeth  and  the  wheel  60,  and  if  the  same 
pitch  of  teeth  is  to  be  kept  in  both  mountings,  then  the 
nearest  number  that  can  be  got  is  33  teeth  for  the 
pinion  and  66  for  the  wheel,  which  does  not  come  out 
exactly,  the  one  pair  having  99,  and  the  other  pair  100 
teeth. 

The  best  top  mounting  for  this  tweel  is  three  rollers, 
one  of  them  hung  from  the  top  rail  in  the  same  way  as 
if  it  was  for  plain  cloth,  with  a  wood  or  iron  pulley  on 
each  end  of  it.  On  these  pulleys  are  fixed  straps,  with 
small  gabs  or  hooks  sewed  to  their  ends,  for  the  purpose 
of  suspending  the  other  two  rollers,  about  3  inches 
below  the  top  one.  The  first  and  second  leaves  are 
hung  from  one  of  the  suspended  rollers,  and  the  third 
and  fourth  from  the  other.  Suppose  that  the  heddles 
are  now  connected  to  the  four  treadles  below,  the 
wypers  will  require  to  be  so  arranged  on  the  tweeling 
shaft  that  3  leaves  will  be  down  and  one  up,  every 
shot  in  the  same  order  as  shown  at  page  82,  under  the 
head,  "  Four  Leaf  Tweel." 

No.  6,  page  83,  is  a  different  draught  for  a  four  leaf 
tweel  of  the  same  kind  as  has  just  now  been  explained, 
and  to  preserve  the  tweel  the  same,  the  wypers  are 
arranged  on  the  shaft  so  as  to  produce  the  treading,  as 
described  under  No.  6,  page  83.  The  top  rollers 
remain  the  same  for  both  draughts. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  239 

When  the  cloth  of  a  four  leaf  tweel  is  to  have  an 
equal  quantity  of  weft  and  warp  on  both  sides,  by 
sinking  2  leaves  and  raising  2,  in  the  same  manner  as 
described  at  page  84  ;  only  two  rollers  are  required  for 
the  top  mounting,  and  they  are  both  hung  on  brackets 
from  the  top  rail  of  the  loom.  But  different  wyper  s 
will  be  required  for  this  tweel,  as  will  be  evident  by 
refering  to  the  example,  and  the  figure,  No.  7,  given  in 
page  84. 

The  four  leaf  tweel  can  be  treaded  in  a  variety  of 
ways,  and  the  manufacturer  who  wishes  to  have  a 
mounting  that  will  answer  for  any  of  them,  should 
adopt  that  kind  of  mounting  called  the  barrel  and 
springs. 

A  very  simple  barrel,  for  a  four  leaf  tweel,  is  made  by 
having  two  cast-iron  flanges  keyed  upon  the  tweeling 
shaft,  about  3  or  4  inches  apart  j  between  the  flanges 
are  placed  a  number  of  pulleys,  which  act  upon  the 
treadles.  The  quantity  of  these  pulleys  used  will 
depend  upon  the  number  of  leaves  that  are  sunk  for  one 
revolution  of  the  tweeling  shaft.  The  pulleys  are  sup- 
ported by  pins,  which  extend  from  one  flange  to  the 
other,  and  the  pulleys  are  made  as  broad  that  4  of 
them  will  fill  the  space  that  is  between  the  flanges,  and 
their  diameter  is  so  large  as  to  allow  sufficient  traverse 
for  the  treadles  to  form  the  shed  without  pressing  on 
the  pins.  These  pulleys  can  be  arranged  on  the  pins  to 
work  any  tweel  that  four  leafs  and  four  treads  will 


240  THEOKY  AND  PEACTICE  OF 

produce.  When  the  workman  is  placing  the  pulleys 
upon  the  pins  to  suit  the  tweel  wanted,  wherever  a 
pulley  is  not  to  be  put  on;  in  place  of  it  he  puts  on  the 
pin  a  small  cut  of  an  iron  tube  to  keep  the  pulleys  in 
their  proper  position  j  for  instance,  if  only  1  leaf  is  to 
be  sunk  the  first  tread,  only  1  pulley  is  put  on  that 
pin  and  3  of  the  iron  tubes  ;  if  the  second  tread  is  to 
sink  two  leaves,  two  pulleys  are  put  on  and  two  tubes, 
and  so  on  j — 1  pulley  for  each  leaf  that  is  to  be  sunk, 
and  one  tube  for  each  leaf  that  is  to  rise. 

For  the  top  mounting  it  is  always  better  to  use 
rollers  instead  of  weights  or  springs,  but  in  some 
instances  it  cannot  be  done,  therefore  recourse  must  be 
had  to  some  other  contrivance  for  lifting  the  heddle 
leaves.  With  hand-loom  weavers  it  has  been  a  very 
common  practice  to  employ  a  complication  of  levers 
called  marches  and  jacks  for  raising  the  heddle  leaves, 
but  for  the  power-loom  this  is  not  necessary ;  for  by 
using  a  small  spiral  spring  for  each  leaf,  for  raising  the 
heddles,  the  whole  movements  of  the  heddles  are  re- 
gulated by  the  tweeling  barrel,  as  the  springs  will 
yield  whenever  any  of  the  treadles  are  pressed  upon 
by  the  pulleys  in  the  barrel.  Perhaps  the  using  of 
these  marches  with  the  hand-loom  weaver  is  more  con- 
venient for  him,  for  by  using  springs  there  is  always  a 
quantity  of  power  lost  in  the  hand-loom  ;  but  it  is  not 
so  with  the  power-loom,  for  if  the  treadles  and  barrels 
are  properly  made,  the  power  expended  upon  the  exten- 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  241 

sion  of  the  spring  is  to  a  certain  degree  given  back  in 
the  contraction.  The  springs  can  either  be  applied  to 
the  leaves  direct,  or  connected  to  the  ends  of  the  levers, 
and  the  opposite  ends  of  these  levers  attached  to  the 
heddles.  Therefore,  the  springs  make  a  very  simple 
top  mounting  for  raising  the  heddles. 


DOUBLE  BARREL. 

If  the  fabric  to  be  woven  requires  much  power  to  form 
the  shed,  a  double  barrel  is  used,  one  half  of  it  for 
sinking  the  leaves,  and  the  other  half  for  raising  them. 
What  is  meant  here  by  a  double  barrel,  when  used  for  a 
four  leaf  tweel  is,  one  that  will  work  8  treadles,  instead 
of  4 ;  4  treadles  to  pull  the  leaves  down,  and  4  to 
pull  them  up.  In  this  case  the  flanges  that  form 
the  sides  of  the  barrel  will  occupy  double  the  space,  so 
as  to  have  room  to  hold  eight  pulleys  instead  of  four, 
and  that  part  of  the  barrel  which  is  to  raise  the  leaves 
must  be  as  far  back  from  the  front  of  the  loom  as  will 
allow  the  rising  cords  to  come  up  at  the  back  of  the 
heddles,  to  be  connected  to  the  levers  above,  in  the 
same  manner  as  shown  at  P,  P,  Figure  1,  Plate  1. 
But  sometimes  it  is  objectionable  to  have  the  cords 
coming  up  through  the  yarn,  and  this  is  avoided  by 
taking  them  up  at  the  side  of  the  loom,  clear  of  the 
warp  yarn.  This  can  be  done  in  a  variety  of  ways. 
One  is  to  have  4  long  marches,  with  their  fulcrum,  at 

£1 


242  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

one  end  of  the  loom,  and  their  points  at  the  other ; 
the  points  of  these  long  marches  being  connected 
with  the  top  levers,  and  the  points  of  the  treadles 
connected  to  the  centre  of  the  long  marches.  Another 
way  is  to  have  the  points  of  the  4  treadles,  which  raise 
the  leaves,  turned  towards  the  end  of  the  loom,  and 
their  fulcrum  in  the  centre  of  the  loom.  This  does 
away  with  the  long  marches,  as  the  points  of  the 
treadles  are  connected  direct  to  the  top  levers.  When 
the  double  barrel  is  used,  the  pulleys  should  be 
arranged  in  it  from  a  draught  made  out  on  a  piece  of 
paper.  If  the  tweel  be  the  same  as  No.  18,  at  page 
88,  and  the  black  squares  the  sinking  leaves,  the 
white  squares  must  be  the  rising  ones,  so  the  pulleys 
must  be  placed  in  the  barrel  to  correspond  to  the 
design  paper. 

The  barrels  made  with  pulleys  and  flanges,  on  the 
plan  just  now  explained,  although  easily  made,  are 
not  nearly  so  good  as  some  of  the  other  kinds,  which 
will  require  to  be  described  for  working  the  larger 
tweels,  diapers,  double  cloth,  &c. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  FIVE  LEAF  TWEEL. 

For  illustration,  take  No.  8,  in  page  85,  and 
although  it  is  the  general  rule  in  treading  a  web  to 
sink  the  greatest  number  of  leaves  and  raise  the 
fewest,  in  this  case  we  will  reverse  it.  for  the  purpose 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  243 

of  having  an  opportunity  of  explaining  a  simple  plan 
of  a  barrel.  In  the  Figure,  No.  8,  it  will  be  seen,  that 
there  is  one  black  square  and  four  white  ones,  which 
represent  the  five  leaves;  the  black  are  those  that 
are  to  be  sunk,  and  the  white  those  that  are  to  be 
lifted.  If  the  tweeling  shaft  be  placed  in  the  loom, 
in  the  same  way  as  it  is  for  the  three  leaf  tweel,  the 
pinion  for  chiving  it  will  require  to  have  2  teeth  for 
every  5  that  is  in  the  wheel ;  if  the  wheel  has  70 
teeth,  the  pinion  will  require  to  have  28,  the  two 
added  together  making  98,  which  number  makes  the 
nearest  approach  to  the  same  pitch  as  the  three  and 
four  leaf  tweels. 

As  only  one  leaf  is  to  be  taken  down  at  a  time,  all 
that  is  necessary  to  put  on  the  tweeling  shaft  is  a 
small  projection  for  each  treadle,  arranged  on  the 
shaft  in  the  form  of  a  scroll,  in  such  a  manner  as  the 
one  follows  the  other  in  regular  succession,  which 
projections  depresses  the  treadles.  The  top  mounting 
being  made  with  springs,  all  the  leaves  will  be  held 
up,  except  the  one  that  is  taken  down  with  the  treadle 
that  is  depressed  by  the  barrel ;  and  to  prevent  the 
leaves  from  rising  any  farther  than  what  is  necessary 
to  form  the  shed,  an  iron  guide  is  placed  above  the 
points  of  the  treadles  for  that  purpose,  which  can  be 
set  to  give  the  size  of  shed  wanted. 

When  a  different  treading  is  required  for  a  five 
leaf  tweel  from  that  just  now  explained,  another  kind 


244  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

of  barrel  is  employed ;  and  one  of  the  best  kinds  is 
made  up  of  five  flanges,  or  plates  (called  "  stars  "  in 
the  trade),  all  the  five  being  alike,  only  one  pattern 
is  made  which  is  drawn  in  the  following  manner. 

Before  beginning  to  draw  the  form  of  the  star,  the 
size  of  the  shed,  the  length  of  the  treadles,  and  the 
part  of  the  treadle  where  the  barrel  is  to  act  upon, 
must  be  understood.  The  space  that  the  points  of 
the  treadles  traverse  will  determine  the  size  of  the 
shed.  Suppose  that  to  be  3J  inches,  which  will  be 
sufficient  for  an  ordinary  web,  making  allowance  for 
the  eye  of  the  heddles  and  the  stretch  of  the  cords ; 
say  the  length  of  the  treadle  is  24  inches,  and  the 
part  of  the  treadle  that  is  acted  upon  by  the  barrel  to 
be  8  inches  from  the  fulcrum  or  heel,  from  these 
figures  (by  the  rule  of  proportion)  will  be  found  the 
traverse  of  the  treadle  at  the  barrel,  which  will  deter- 
mine the  throw  of  the  star. 

If  24  inches  give  3J3  what  will  8  give  ? 

EXAMPLE. 
24     :     3J     :  :     8 


24 
4 


24)28(H 
24 


4 
24 


THE  ART  OP  WEAVING.  245 

The  diameter  of  a  barrel  for  5  leaves,  with  its 
tapets  in,  need  not  be  more  than  10  inches,  so  a  circle 
is  first  drawn  10  inches  in  diameter,  then  another 
9  nr  inches  in  diameter,  also  another  81  inches  ;  after 
this  is  done  divide  the  10  inch  circle  into  20  equal 
parts,  with  a  pair  of  dividers,  and  from  each  mark 
made  by  the  dividers  draw  a  radius  line  to  the  centre 
of  the  circle  j  this  will  give  4  parts  for  each  tread,  1 
to  open  the  shed,  2  for  keeping  the  shed  open,  and  1 
to  close  it.  The  2  parts  for  keeping  the  shed  open 
will  be  part  of  the  circle,  which  is  10  inches  in 
diameter,  the  other  2  parts  will  be  a  curve  made  from 
the  10  inch  circle  to  the  9tV  inch  one.  From  the 
St*  inch  circle,  to  the  circle  which  is  81  inches  in 
diameter,  will  form  another  curve  of  one  part,  the 
next  two  parts  have  the  circle  of  81  inches,  so  that 
there  will  be  a  curve  made  from  the  10  inch  circle, 
which  will  make  a  uniform  motion  for  the  movement 
of  the  heddles  from  the  81  circle  to  the  10  inch  one. 
When  all  these  lines  are  drawn  upon  the  piece  of 
wood  that  the  pattern  is  to  be  made  from,  the  form  of 
the  tapet  will  be  got  from  the  marks  made  above  the 
line,  which  is  9  A  inches  in  diameter,  and  after  it  is 
got  the  workman  begins  to  make  the  pattern  for  the 
star,  by  cutting  away  all  the  wood  that  is  above, 
making  it  exactly  9  A  inches  in  diameter,  and  then 
cutting  it  out  by  the  marks  down  to  the  circle  which 
was  drawn  8|  inches  in  diameter.    When  this  is  done 


246  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

the  star  is  formed,  so  for  as  its  circumference  is  con- 
cerned. 

Into  each  of  the  five  divisions  on  the  star,  there  is 
made  a  recess  for  the  tail  of  the  tapets  to  go  into,  and 
the  5  bolts  that  hold  the  stars  together  also  serve  for 
keeping  the  tapets  in  their  places,  therefore  the  bolt 
holes  require  to  be  cast  in  the  centre  of  this  recess. 

When  the  stars  are  all  cast,  and  read}7  for  forming 
the  barrel,  they  are  placed  on  the  tweeling  shaft,  and 
screwed  close  up  to  the  back  of  the  bevel  wheel  with 
the  bolts.  In  general  there  is  a  ring  cast  on  the  back 
of  the  bevel  wheel  for  the  purpose  of  screwing  the 
stars  to.  When  putting  the  tapets  into  the  barrel, 
the  workman  is  provided  with  a  piece  of  paper  with 
the  draught  of  the  tweel  upon  it,  and  from  this  paper 
he  sees  where  they  should  be  put  in,  or  left  out; 
only  one  bolt  is  taken  out  at  a  time,  for  if  all  the  five 
bolts  were  made  loose  at  once,  the  stars  would  be 
liable  to  get  out  of  position. 

By  using  a  tweeling  barrel  made  with  the  stars  and 
tapets,  along  with  the  springs  for  the  top  mounting, 
it  has  the  following  advantages  over  the  one  previously 
explained.  First,  the  tapets  can  be  arranged  to 
answer  any  twcel  that  comes  within  the  range  of  5 
leaves  and  5  treads ;  and  second,  the  heddles  meet  in 
a  mid  position  every  shot,  consequently,  the  shed  is 
made  by  the  heddles  rising  to  form  the  top  shed,  an 
equal  distance  to  those  that  sink  to  form  the  under 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  247 

one ;  thus  keeping  an  equal  strain  upon  the  j-arn  in 
both,  which  cannot  be  accomplished  by  the  other 
1  kutcI  with  any  degree  of  accuracy. 


TWEELING  TREADLES. 

The  treadles  for  this  kind  of  barrel  should  be  made 
of  cast  iron,  and  the  small  pulleys  in  them,  that  are 
acted  upon  by  the  tapets,  should  be  set  a  little  lower 
than  the  point  and  heel  of  the  treadle.  This  can  be 
done  by  making  the  treadle  the  form  of  a  bow,  instead 
of  it  being  straight. 

Before  going  on  to  explain  the  mountings  for  the 
larger  tweels  and  diapers,  a  description  of  the  treadles 
that  are  generally  used  for  diapers  and  large  tweels 
is  deemed  requisite  in  this  place,  which  will  save  any 
further  remarks  about  them  when  explaining  the  dif- 
ferent barrels. 

For  some  kinds  of  work  it  is  not  convenient  to  use 
the  brander  for  guiding  the  points  of  the  treadles,  and 
if  the  brander  be  done  away  with,  some  other  mecha- 
nical contrivance  must  be  substituted  for  keeping  the 
treadles  in  their  proper  place.  One  of  the  plans 
employed  for  that  purpose  is  to  have  the  two  outside 
treadles  with  long  bearings  at  the  treadle  heel  pin, 
and  the  inside  of  the  outside  treadles  made  broad  and 
flat,  for  about  5  or  6  inches  at  the  heel ;  the  centre 
treadles  being  made  in  the  same  way,  except  that 


248  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

their  bearings  are  no  longer  than  the  thickness  of  the 
treadle,  in  this  way  the  treadles  are  kept  from  moving 
either  to  the  one  side  or  the  other  if  they  are  properly 
fitted.  Instead  of  having  the  flat  part  of  the  treadles 
the  6  inches  all  to  the  front  of  the  heel,  it  is  better 
to  have  3  inches  to  the  front  and  three  to  the  back  of 
the  heel,  if  there  is  room  for  this  way  in  the  loom. 
When  no  brander  is  used  in  front  of  the  barrel,  the 
workman  gets  easier  at  the  points  of  the  treadles  to 
adjust  the  sheds,  and  to  get  this  advantage  some  made 
the  treadles  to  project  away  back  from  the  heel  a  suf- 
ficient distance,  so  as  to  employ  a  brander  at  the  back 
of  the  barrel. 

Sometimes  the  treadles  (or  rather  levers  when  used 
in  this  way)  are  placed  above  the  barrel,  with  their 
fulcrum  at  or  near  their  centre.  The  one  end  of  the 
lever  is  made  to  come  to  the  centre  of  the  loom,  right 
below  the  heddles,  where  the  heddles  and  levers  are 
connected,  the  other  end  to  be  fair  above  the  centre 
of  the  barrel,  and  on  this  end  is  fixed  the  pulley  for 
the  tapets  to  act  upon.  As  the  barrel  revolves,  the 
tapets  cause  that  end  of  the  lever  to  ascend,  which  is 
in  contact  with  the  barrel,  the  other  end  descends, 
and  being  connected  to  the  heddles,  pulls  them  down 
to  form  the  shed.  That  end  of  the  lever  which  is 
connected  to  the  heddles,  will  describe  part  of  a  circle 
when  moving,  which  will  cause  the  heddles  to  move 
a  little  endways,  and  to  prevent  this,  a  small  segment 


THE  AKT  OF  WEAVING.  249 

is  cast  on  the  end  of  the  lever  for  the  cord  to  work 
upon,  which  connects  the  heddles  to  the  levers.  These 
levers  have  moveable  fulcrmns,  which  can  be  shifted 
at  pleasure  to  suit  the  size  of  the  shed.  They  are 
supported  by  two  castings,  which  are  bolted  to  the 
framing  for  holding  the  barrel,  and  as  the  levers  must 
always  be  in  the  position  that  their  ends  will  answer 
for  the  barrel  and  heddles,  the  two  castings  which 
support  them  require  to  be  shifted  along  with  the  ful- 
crums  of  the  levers. 

Another  way  to  use  the  lever  above  the  barrel,  is 
to  have  two  sets  of  them,  and  the  barrel  placed  in  the 
centre  of  the  loom ;  each  pair  of  levers  are  connected 
with  a  joint  right  above  the  centre  of  the  barrel,  and 
their  opposite  ends  to  the  heddles.  This  plan  is  better 
adapted  for  heavy  work,  because  the  heddle  shafts 
can  be  corded  at  two  different  points,  whereas,  in  the 
other  way,  the  heddle  shafts  are  only  catched  in  the 
centre  with  the  under  cords,  unless  small  jacks  be 
used. 

These  levers  are  sometimes  employed  with  the  barrel 
placed  outside  the  loom,  at  the  opposite  end  from  the 
driving  pulleys,  and  in  this  case  one  set  is  put  above 
the  heddles,  and  another  set  below  them;  so  arranged 
that  one  end  of  the  lever  will  come  to  the  centre  of  the 
loom,  and  their  other  end  to  the  barrel;  and  their 
fulcrum  is  at  or  near  their  centre,  which  is  made  move- 
able like  the  others;  but  in  this  case  there  is  a  set  of 

Fl 


250  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

treadles  used  along  -with  the  levers,  and  the  points 
of  the  treadles  are  connected  with  cords  to  the  top  and 
bottom  levers.  This  kind  of  mounting  vras  at  one  time 
extensively  used  for  weaving  that  class  of  goods  called 
moleskins  and  corduroys. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  SIX  LEAF  TWEEL. 

A  barrel  can  be  made  for  working  a  tweel  with  six 
leaves  from  the  same  rules  which  have  been  given  for 
making  the  five  leaf  barrel,  and  by  adding  one  division 
more  to  the  star,  and  one  star  more  to  the  barrel,  that 
will  make  the  barrel  to  contain  six  stars,  and  each  star 
will  have  six  divisions.  What  is  meant  here  by  the 
word  "  division"  is  that  part  on  the  circumference  of  the 
star,  which  is  required  to  make  one  tread.  It  is  com- 
mon for  tradesmen  to  say,  when  speaking  of  tweeling 
barrels,  it  is  a  barrel  for  "  so  many  leaves,"  "with  so 
many  treads  ;"  for  instance,  if  only  three  of  these  stars 
were  put  on  a  tweeling  shaft,  it  would  be  called  a 
barrel  for  three  leaves,  with  six  treads,  &c.j  for  every 
star  that  is  put  on  the  tweeling  shaft,  one  leaf  more, 
and  for  every  division  in  the  star,  one  tread  more ; 
and  it  is  plain  that  if  stars  are  put  on,  with  six  divi- 
sions to  make  the  barrel,  it  could  work  a  three  leaf 
tweel  by  repeating  the  treading  for  it  twice  on  the 
barrel. 

No.  10,  at  page  85,  will  show  how  the  tapets  are 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  251 

arranged  on  the  barrel  for  a  regular  tweel,  and  No.  11, 
at  page  86,  for  a  broken  one.  The  top  mounting  for 
this  tweel  can  be  made  "with  the  springs,  as  already  ex- 
plained. 

This  barrel  will  make  1  revolution  for  six  picks,  and 
if  driven  off  the  under  shaft  the  same  as  the  others,  the 
pinion  will  be  as  one  to  three  of  the  wheel;  and  if  the 
same  pitch  of  teeth  is  still  to  be  preserved  the  pinion 
will  have  25  teeth,  and  the  wheel  75,  which  is  100  for 
both,  making  the  pitch  exactly  the  same  as  the  three 
leaf  tweel.  It  will  be  readily  understood  how  the 
treadles  are  made  and  placed,  from  what  has  been  said 
before. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  SEVEN  LEAF  TWEEL. 

A  barrel  is  made  for  this  one  by  putting  on  7  stars, 
each  star  with  7  treads,  and  the  tapets  put  into  their 
places  in  the  same  order  as  shown  by  No.  12,  at  page 
86  ;  No.  13  is  the  broken  tweel;  the  pinion  for  this  one 
will  be  in  the  same  proportion  as  2  to  7  of  the  wheel, 
the  pinion  having  22  teeth,  and  the  wheel  77,  making 
9*9  in  both.  The  top  mounting  and  treadles  for  this 
tweel  may  be  the  same  as  the  others. 

To  find  the  proper  proportion  for  the  number  of  teeth 
in  the  wheel  and  pinion  for  driving  the  barrels  for  these 
simple  tweels, — First  ascertain  the  number  of 
treads  the  barrel  will  make  in  one  revolution,  then  fix 


252  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

a  number  that  will  divide  by  the  number  of  treads,  and 
divide  the  number  fixed  upon  by  the  number  of  treads, 
and  if  the  barrel  be  driven  off  the  under  shaft,  which 
makes  one  revolution  for  2  shots  or  picks,  multiply  the 
dividend  by  two,  which  will  give  the  number  of  teeth 
for  the  pinion. 

For  illustration  take  the  seven  leaf  tweel,  the  barrel 
makes  7  treads  for  1  revolution,  and  the  number  of 
teeth  fixed  upon  is  77,  because  that  number  will  divide 
by  the  number  of  treads,  viz.,  7,  and  the  number  of 
times  that  7  can  be  got  from  77  is  11,  so  11  multiplied 
by  2  makes  22,  the  number  of  teeth  in  the  pinion. 
EXAMPLE. 
7  |_77_ 

11 

2 


22       dumber  of  teeth  in  pinion. 

Again — Suppose  an  eight  leaf  tweel  with  eight 
treads,  and  the  number  of  teeth  fixed  upon  to  be 
96,  then  96  divided  by  8  (the  number  of  treads),  will 
give  12,  and  12  multiplied  by  2  will  give  24,  which 
is  the  number  of  teeth  for  the  pinion  required. 

EXAMPLE. 
8  |_96 
12 

2 


24     Teeth  for  the  pinion. 
But  if  the  same  pitch  of  teeth  be  kept  for  the  eight 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  253 

leaves  as  for  the  others,  then  the  number  of  teeth  for 
the  wheel  must  be  80;  and  80  divided  by  8  gives  10, 
and  10  multiplied  by  2  gives  20,  the  number  of  teeth 
for  the  pinion. 

EXAMPLE. 
8  |  80 

10 
2 

20    Teeth  for  the  pinion. 


MOUNTING  FOR  AN  EIGHT  LEAF  TWEEL. 

A  barrel  for  working  eight  leaves  is  made  with  8 
stars,  each  star  having  8  treads.  The  wheel  and 
pinion  for  driving  this  barrel  is  already  given,  and  the 
arrangement  for  the  tapets  for  a  regular  and  broken 
tweel  will  be  seen  at  pages  86  and  87.  It  will  be  evi- 
dent, from  what  is  stated  under  ll  Six  Leaf  Tweel," 
that  a  four  leaf  tweel  can  be  woven  with  this  barrel  by 
putting  in  the  tapets,  as  shown  at  No.  6,  page  83,  for 
a  regular  tweel.  It  will  also  do  for  No.  18,  shown  at 
page  88,  in  both  cases  the  tweel  will  require  to  be  re- 
peated two  times  on  the  barrel.  This  mounting  will 
also  work  four  shots  of  plain,  and  four  shots  of  tweel 
alternately,  by  arranging  the  tapets,  as  shown  in  No. 
51,  on  four  of  the  stars,  and  keeping  the  draught  the 
same  as  No.  6. 


254 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


FOUR  SHOTS  OF  TWEEL  AND  PLAIN, 
ALTERNATELY. 

No.  51 


At  one  time  the  demand  for  this  kind  of  cloth  was 
very  great,  which  caused  some  of  the  power  loom 
weavers  to  turn  their  attention  to  it,  and  the  result 
was  that  many  different  plans  were  adopted  for  work- 
ing plain  and  tweel  stripes.  When  the  tweel  stripe  is 
to  be  made  thicker  than  the  plain  one,  it  is  necessary  to 
have  an  apparatus  to  make  the  cloth  beam  move  slower 
when  the  tweel  stripe  is  working,  which  need  not  be 
explained  in  this  place. 

This  barrel  can  also  be  made  to  work  plain  and 
tweel  stripes  in  the  warp,  by  employing  six  leaves,  4 
for  the  tweel,  and  2  for  the  plain,  the  tapets  being 
arranged  in  the  barrel,  as  shown  at  No.  52. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


255 


PLAIN  AND  TWEEL  STRIPES  IN  THE  WARP. 

No.  52. 


12  3  4  5  6 


The  figures,  1,  2,  3,  and  4,  represent  the  tweeling 
leaves,  and  5  and  6  the  plain  ones.  The  size  and 
variety  of  these  stripes  depend  upon  taste,  but  the 
tweeling  stripes  should  always  have  as  many  threads  as 
will  make  a  full  draught,  which  is  four,  so  that  the 
tweel  stripes  will  require  to  be  4,  8,  12,  16,  or  any 
other  number  that  will  divide  by  4. 


DIAPER  AND  PLAIN  CLOTH. 

By  turning  to  page  92,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  five 
leaf  diaper,  No.  26,  can  be  woven  by  this  mounting. 
No.  28  and  No.  29,  in  page  93,  No.  31,  in  page  94, 
and  No.  32,  in  page  95,  come  all  within  the  range  of 
this  barrel.  If  plain  cloth  is  to  be  woven  along  with 
any  of  these  diapers,  all  that  is  required  is  to  put  in 
other  two  leaves,  which  will  make  seven,  two  for  the 
plain  and  five  for  the  diaper,  as  shown  at  No.  53  ;  the 
diaper  part  of  it  is  the  same  as  No.  28. 


256 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 
No.  53. 


mm 


m    w    Wa 


w.    w 


%      Wa 


w   w,   m 


This  shows  the  principle  upon  which  plain  and  dia- 
per stripes  are  woven. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  TEN  LEAF  TWEEL. 

The  barrel  for  this  mounting  requires  10  stars,  and 
each  star  10  treads.  The  number  of  teeth  for  the 
wheel  and  pinion  will  be  found  by  the  rule  given  under 
"  Mounting  for  a  Seven  Leaf  Wheel."  No.  21,  at 
page  89,  gives  one  arrangement  for  the  tapets  ;  and 
some  of  the  other  kinds  of  cloth  that  can  be  woven  by 
this  barrel  will  appear  further  on. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  TWELVE  LEAF  TWEEL. 

When  a  tweel  requires  more  than  ten  leaves  to 
work  it,  the  heddle  shafts  are  in  general  made  much 
thinner,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  up  less  space  in 
the  loom.  If  the  ordinary  shafts  that  are  used  for  a 
four  leaf  tweel  (each  shaft  five-eighths  of  an  inch  thick), 
were  taken  for  a  twelve,  the  space  they  would  occupy 
would  be  9  inches,  that  is  allowing  one-eighth  of  an  inch 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  257 

of  clearance  for  each  leap.  To  make  this  space  less,  the 
heddle  shafts  are  made  as  thin  as  the  nature  of  the 
cloth  will  admit  of,  and  if  the  shafts  are  made  to  take 
up  less  space,  the  barrel  must  be  made  to  correspond 
to  the  heddles.  But  it  is  found  in  practice  a  very 
difficult  thing  to  keep  each  respective  treadle  work- 
ing properly  with  its  respective  star,  if  the  stars 
that  compose  the  barrel  be  as  thin  as  the  heddle 
shafts  which  are  employed  for  large  tweels,  and  to 
avoid  this  difficulty  the  points  of  the  treadles  are 
contracted.  The  star  should  not  be  made  thinner 
than  five-eighths  of  an  inch,  and  twelve  will  occupy 
a  space  of  7^  inches.  If  the  heddles  are  made  to 
work  in  the  space  of  5  inches,  the  points  of  the  treadles 
must  be  made  to  work  in  five  inches  also;  and  the 
way  to  manage  this  is  to  make  twelve  different 
patterns  for  the  treadles.  The  2  treadles  for  the 
centre  of  the  barrel  are  made  almost  straight,  the 
point  of  the  one  bent  a  little  towards  the  left  hand, 
and  the  point  of  the  other  a  little  towards  the  right,  the 
next  2  treadles  are  bent  in  the  same  manner,  having  a 
little  more  bend  than  the  first  two,  and  so  on,  with  each 
pair  of  treadles,  over  all  the  twelve,  giving  each 
treadle  a  little  more  bend  than  the  one  next  it,  so  that 
the  difference  between  the  space  occupied  by  the 
points  of  the  treadles  from  what  they  occupy  at  the 
barrel,  will  be  2^  inches. 

Before  commencing  to  make  the  patterns  for  treadles 


258  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

of  this  kind,  a  ground  plan  of  theni  and  the  barrel 
should  be  drawn  the  full  size,  showing  the  space  that 
each  treadle  will  occupy,  and  from  this  drawing 
the  exact  bend  of  each  treadle  will  be  seen;  it  will 
also  show  the  exact  thickness  for  the  brander 
blades. 

The  driving  of  this  barrel  is  different  from  those 
previously  explained,  on  account  of  its  size  in  circum- 
ference, it  making  only  1  revolution  for  12  picks. 
Like  the  others,  it  has  1  star  for  each  leaf,  each  star 
having  12  treads;  and  if  it  was  driven  in  the  same 
way,  the  wheel  would  be  so  large,  that  it  would  be 
inconvenient  to  have  the  barrel  placed  in  the  loom  to 
answer  the  heddles;  and  in  order  to  have  it  placed  in 
the  position  most  suitable  for  the  heddles  to  be  corded 
in  the  same  manner  as  the  others,  the  following  altera- 
tions are  made.  Instead  of  the  stars  being  bolted  to  a 
bevel  wheel,  they  are  bolted  to  a  spur  one  on  the  oppo- 
site end  of  the  tweeling  shaft,  so  as  to  allow  the  barrel 
to  get  close  to  the  under  shaft  of  the  loom ;  this  is 
necessary,  in  consequence  of  the  bends  that  are  made 
in  the  treadles.  This  spur  wheel  is  driven  by  a 
pinion,  which  is  keyed  upon  the  end  of  a  small  shaft 
that  revolves  in  front  of  the  barrel;  and  this  small 
shaft  has  a  bevel  wheel  on  its  other  end,  which  is 
driven  by  a  bevel  pinion  that  is  on  the  under  shaft  of 
the  loom.  If  the  small  shaft  in  front  of  the  barrel 
makes  one  revolution  for  six  picks,  the  bevel  pinion 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  259 

Will  be  in  the  proportion  of  1  to  3  of  the  wheel,  and 
the  spur  pinion  as  1  to  2  of  the  spur  wheel. 

Some  of  the  barrels  we  have  yet  to  explain  are  driven 
in  the  same  way  as  this  one  for  the  twelve  leaves,  and 
the  same  pattern  for  the  spur  wheel  may  do  for  a 
number  of  them,  if  the  number  of  teeth  be  fixed  at 
120,  and,  although  the  stars  be  of  different  diameters, 
for  the  different  barrels,  the  ring  on  the  spur  wheel 
may  be  made  to  answer  the  different  sizes  of  stars. 
Let  the  bevel  pinion  on  the  under  shaft  have  20  teeth, 
and  the  bevel  wheel  60,  and  the  proper  speed  to  the 
twelve  leaf  barrel  will  be  given  by  putting  a  spur 
pinion  of  GO  teeth  on  the  end  of  the  small  shaft  which 
works  in  front  of  the  barrel. 


TOP  MOUNTING  FOR  LARGE  TWEELS. 

The  top  mounting  for  tweels  with  more  than 
leaves  requires  a  different  arrangement  from  those  of 
a  less  number,  and  one  of  the  best  kinds  can  be  fitted 
up  in  the  following  manner: — 

Have  2  cast  iron  rails,  in  place  of  1,  for  the  heddle- 
bearer,  or  top  rail,  let  them  be  fitted  up,  so  that  the 
space  between  the  two  will  be  exactly  the  same  as  the 
space  occupied  by  the  heddles.  At  that  side  of  the 
loom  where  the  springs  are  to  be  placed,  have  a  small 
bracket  bolted  to  the  upright  for  holding  them  by  the 
ends.     The  springs  are  so  arranged  in  this  brae 


2G0  THEORY  AND  PEACTICE  OF 

that  they  will  all  be  clear  of  each  other  when  work- 
ing; the  other  ends  of  the  springs  are  attached  with 
wires  or  cords  to  the  levers  above,  which  levers  work 
between  the  two  top  rails;  the  thickness  of  the  levers 
will  depend  upon  the  size  of  the  heddle  shafts  that 
are  used.  To  prevent  the  springs  from  being  too 
much  stretched,  the  levers  are  made,  with  their  ful- 
crums  near  to  the  end  where  the  springs  are  attached. 
For  medium  cloth,  if  the  shed  be  3  inches,  the  springs 
may  be  made  to  yield  1J  inch. 

When  the  web  is  narrow,  1  set  of  levers  will  do 
for  lifting  the  heddles;  but  if  the  web  be  abroad  one, 
it  is  better  to  use  2  sets;  and  when  that  is  the  case, 
the  first  set,  or  those  that  the  springs  act  upon,  have 
an  extra  arm  cast  on  them  right  above  their  fulcrum. 
The  other  set  is  made  in  the  form  of  a  bell  crank,  and 
the  two  sets  are  connected  with  wires,  so  that  both 
are  acted  upon  by  the  springs  simultaneously. 

The  levers  being  hung  upon  pins  which  pass  through 
the  top  rails,  they  are  not  likely  to  get  out  of  order, 
as  these  rails  keep  them  in  their  place  when  once 
properly  fitted.  The  only  objection  to  the  employ- 
ment of  levers  for  lifting  the  heddles  is,  that  they  do 
not  move  up  and  down  perfectly  perpendicular;  but 
that  objection  can  be  entirely  removed,  as  stated 
before,  by  having  the  ends  of  the  levers  properly 
made;  when  so  made,  this  top  mounting  will  be 
found  more  simple  to  work,  and  take  less  power  to 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  261 

work  it,  than  those  that  are  fitted  up  with  the  small 
pulleys  and  cords. 

No.  22,  at  page  89,  shows  the  arrangement  of  the 
tapets  for  a  twelve  leaf  fancy  tweel;  and  any  other 
tweel,  cither  regular  or  broken,  that  comes  within  the 
compass  of  twelve  leaves  and  twelve  treads,  can  be 
woven  by  the  barrel  and  top  mounting  we  have  just 
been  describing;  it  is  also  suitable  for  working  a 
number  of  the  diaper  patterns. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  SIXTEEN  LEAF  TWEEL. 

The  barrel  and  top  mounting  for  this  tweel  can  be 
made  exactly  on  the  same  plan  as  the  one  for  the 
twelve  leaves,  but  of  course  will  require  sixteen  stars, 
each  star  with  sixteen  treads.  The  driving  gear  will 
also  be  on  the  same  principle  as  that  described  for  twelve 
leaves,  and  the  same  bevel  wheel  and  pinion  will  do; 
also  the  spur  wheel  for  the  barrel;  but  the  spur  pinion  on 
the  end  of  the  small  shaft,  in  front  of  the  barrel,  will 
require  only  45  teeth,  instead  of  60,  which  is  the 
number  of  teeth  in  the  other. 

To  find  the  number  of  teeth  that  is  required  in  the 
pinion  for  driving  this  barrel,  first  divide  the  number 
of  teeth  in  the  spur  wheel,  which  is  120,  by  the 
number  of  treads,  which  is  16,  then  multiply  the 
product  by  the  number  of  picks  the  loom  makes  for 


262  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

one  revolution  of  the  small  shaft,  which  is  6,  and  the 
answer  is  the  number  of  teeth  for  the  pinion. 

EXzVMPLE. 

16)120(71  x  6  =  45     Number  of  teeth  for  the  pinion. 
112 

8 

16 

Another  way  is  to  multiply  the  number  of  teeth 
in  the  barrel  wheel,  by  the  picks  made  during  one 
revolution  of  the  pinion,  and  divide  by  the  number 
of  picks  made  during  one  revolution  of  the  barrel;  in 
this  way  there  is  no  fraction. 

EXAMPLE. 

120 
6 


16)720(45 
64 


80 
80 


No.  23,  at  page  90,  shows  the  arrangement  of  the 
tapets,  for  what  is  called  a  full  satin  tweel.  It  is  sel- 
dom used,  except  for  very  fine  goods,  and  then  it  is 
used  along  with  a  harness  for  the  ground  of  the  cloth. 


MOUNTING  FOR  DIAPERS. 

Those  mountings  that  consist  of  the  barrel  formed 
with  stars,  and  the  springs  for  raising  the  heddles, 


THE  AKT  OF  WEAVING.  263 

which  have  been  described  for  tweeling,  will  do  for  a 
number  of  the  diapers;  and  it  will  only  be  necessary 
to  state  the  different  barrels  that  are  suitable  for 
diapers,  as  we  proceed,  beginning  with  the  three  leaf 
diaper. 


MOUNTING  FOR  THREE  LEAF  DIAPERS. 

It  will  be  seen  at  page  91,  No.  24,  B,  how  a  three 
leaf  diaper  is  treaded;  and  that  it  requires  6  treads  to 
complete  the  pattern,  so  that  either  the  Barrel  for  the 
six  leaf  tweel,  or  that  for  the  twelve  will  do  for  it. 
In  each  barrel  only  three  of  the  treadles  are  used,  but 
the  barrel  for  the  twelve  leaves  will  require  to  have 
the  pattern  repeated  twice  upon  it.  If  the  web  be 
finer  than  a  1000,  six  leaves  of  heddles  should  be  used, 
each  pair  can  be  fixed  as  one,  and  attached  to  one 
treadle.  This  keeps  the  heddles  from  being  too 
crowded  upon  the  shafts,  and  makes  it  easier  on  the 
warp. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  FOUR  LEAF  DIAPER. 

A  four  leaf  diaper  can  be  woven  with  the  same  two 
barrels  that  has  been  pointed  out  for  the  three, 
because  it  only  requires  6  treads  for  the  pattern, 
which  will  be  seen  by  turning  up  No.  25,  at  page  92. 


264 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


MOUNTING  FOR  FIVE  LEAF  DIAPERS. 

The  barrel  which  works  an  eight  leaf  tweel  will  do 
for  any  diaper  with  five  leaves,  when  they  have  not 
more  than  eight  treads  for  the  pattern;  such  as  No. 
26,  at  page  92,  and  Nos.  28  and  29,  at  page  93,  also 
No.  31,  at  page  94,  and  No.  32,  at  page  95.  All  these 
and  many  more  can  be  woven  with  the  same  barrel, 
by  arranging  the  tapets  to  suit  the  pattern. 

If  any  other  pattern  be  wanted  which  can  be  woven 
with  five  leaves  and  eight  treads,  all  that  requires  to 
be  done,  is  to  draw  the  pattern  wanted  on  design 
paper,  the  full  size,  and  from  it  will  be  seen  how  the 
tapets  should  be  arranged  in  the  barrel.  For  illustra- 
tion we  will  draw  Xo.  26  full  size,  to  show  how  the 
arrangements  for  the  tapets  are  got.  The  part  of 
the  pattern,  No.  54,  which  is  taken  for  the  arrange- 
ment of  the  tapets  in  the  barrel,  is  that  part  right 
above  the  figures,  5,  6,  7,  8,  and  9,  it  being  a  diamond 
draught;  the  other  part  does  not  require  to  be  taken. 

No.  54. 


11 


IP 
I  "3 


I     7 


123456789 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  265 

In  drawing  small  diaper  figures,  it  is  better  to  draw 
on  the  design  paper  two  or  three  repeats  of  the 
pattern,  so  as  to  prevent  any  blunder  being  made  in 
the  cloth,  where  the  figures  join. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  SIX  LEAF  DIAPER, 

The  barrel  taken  notice  of  for  a  ten  leaf  tweel,  will  do 
for  any  diaper  with  six  leaves,  and  ten  treads;  conse- 
quently, it  will  answer  for  No.  33,  in  page  95,  also 
Nos.  34,  35,  and  36,  in  page  96,  and  Nos.  37  and  38, 
in  page  97,  by  arranging  the  tapets  to  suit  the  diffe- 
rent patterns,  as  shown  by  the  respective  drawings 
under  their  numbers. 


MOUNTING  FOR  A  SEVEN  LEAF  DIAPER, 

No.  39,  at  page  97,  is  a  seven  leaf  diaper,  with 
twelve  treads,  so  that  the  barrel  for  working  the 
twelve  leaf  tweel  will  also  suit  to  work  this  diaper  by 
arranging  the  tapets  to  answer  the  pattern;  and, 
although  only  one  pattern  is  given  for  the  seven  leaves, 
with  twelve  treads,  many  more  can  be  woven  with 
the  same  number  of  leaves  and  treads,  as  will  be 
readily  understood  from  what  has  been  previously 
stated  under  "Mounting  for  Five  Leaf  Diapers." 


HI 


266  THEOEY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

MOUNTING  FOR  EIGHT  LEAF  DIAPERS. 

Nos.  40,  41,  42,  and  43,  at  pages  98  and  99,  show 
the  treading  or  arrangement  of  the  tapets  for  four 
different  kinds  of  eight  leaf  diapers,  with  14  treads. 
The  barrel  for  working  these  patterns,  is  made  upon 
the  same  principle  as  the  barrel  for  working  the  twelve 
leaf  tweel,  the  only  difference  being  that  8  stars  will 
do,  and  that  each  star  will  require  to  have  14  treads. 
It  will  be  evident  that  none  of  the  mountings  previ- 
ously explained,  will  answer  for  these  diapers,  because 
of  them  having  14  treads;  therefore,  the  small  shaft  that 
works  in  front  of  the  barrel,  will  require  to  make  1 
revolution  for  5J  picks,  and  that  speed  can  be  got  for 
it,  by  putting  a  bevel  pinion  on  the  under  shaft,  with 
16  teeth,  to  drive  a  bevel  wheel,  on  the  end  of  the 
small  shaft,  which  will  require  to  have  45  teeth.  The 
spur  wheel  and  pinion,  used  for  the  sixteen  leaf  tweel 
will  do  for  this  diaper;  namely,  120  teeth  for  the 
wheel,  and  45  for  the  pinion. 

EXAMPLE. 

120 
5| 


600 
30 


14)630(45     Teeth  on  the  pinion. 
56 

70 
70 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  267 

MOUNTING  FOR  A  TEN  LEAF  DIAPER, 
WITH  THIRTY-SIX  TREADS. 

When  a  pattern  requires  more  than  sixteen  leaves, 
and  36  treads,  it  is  not  advantageous  to  use  the 
barrel,  although  barrels  have  been  made  to  work  as 
many  treads  as  96,  and  its  diameter  was  not  more 
than  32  inches,  however,  the  barrel  mounting  does 
very  well  for  36  treads,  such  as  No.  U  pattern,  given 
at  page  100. 

The  spur  wheel  with  the  120  teeth  wiU  also  do  for 
this  barrel,  and  the  shaft  in  front  of  it,  to  make  1  re- 
volution for  6  picks;  the  spur  pinion  will  require  to 
have  only  20  teeth,  which  will  be  seen  from  the 
calculation. 

EXAMPLE. 

120 
6 


36)720(20     Teeth  on  the  pinion. 

72  * 


00 


When  any  fabric  requires  a  large  number  of  treads 
to  complete  a  pattern,  and  that  pattern  can  be  made 
with  less  than  20  leaves,"  it  is  sometimes  found  cheaper 
not  to  employ  a  harness,  but  some  of  the  other  plans, 
which  have  been  adopted  for  working  heddles.  Some 
of  these  plans  will  be  taken  notice  of  in  this  place. 

There  is  one  plan  for  working  the  heddle  leaves 
with  what  is  called   a  skeleton  jacquard  machine, 


268  THEOKY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

placed  above  the  loom,  in  the  same  way  as  shown  at 
Figure  6,  Plate  III.  For  each  leaf  that  is  to  be  em- 
ployed,  there  is  an  upright  wire  put  in  the  machine, 
in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  common  jacquard 
machine,  and  to  this  wire  is  hung  the  heddle  leaf; 
and,  suppose  that  20  leaves  are  to  be  used,  then  20  of 
these  wires  are  put  in  the  machine ;  they  can  be  lifted 
wirh.  a  single  brander  blade,  but  it  is  better  to  have 
2  rows  of  wires,  with  10  in  each,  and  2  brander 
blades,  which  will  take  less  space  and  material. 

The  heddle  leaves  can  be  taken  down,  either  with 
springs  or  weights,  and  they  are  raised  by  the  small 
jacquard  machine,  in  the  same  way,  and  by  the  same 
appliance  as  described  for  the  full  harness  in  page 
1 80.  In  this  way  the  warp  yarn  will  be  lifted  from 
the  race  of  the  lay  to  form  the  shed,  which  is  in  some 
respects  an  objection,  and,  to  obviate  that  objection, 
some  of  these  machines  are  made,  so  as  the  leaves 
that  form  the  under  shed  will  sink  as  far  as  the 
others  rise  to  form  the  top  one;  this  is  done  by 
allowing  the  under-board  of  the  machine,  where 
the  needles  rest  upon,  to  descend  when  the  brander 
that  lifts  the  needles  is  in  the  act  of  rising.  To 
accomplish  this  movement,  instead  of  using  one  lever, 
as  shown  at  Figure  1,  Plate  L,  there  is  another  put- 
below  it,  which  is  made  to  descend  by  the  motion  of 
the  top  one  ascending.  By  using  this  kind  of  machine 
it  is  thought  the  shedding  is  easier  on  the  warp  yarn, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  269 

but  it  will  be  evident  that  it  is  not  so  simple  as  the  other. 

Like  all  the  other  mountings  for  figured  work,  the 
pattern  has  first  to  be  drawn  upon  design  paper,  and  if 
the  pattern  is  to  be  regulated  by  cards,  the  holes  are 
punched  in  them  to  answer  to  the  drawing,  just  in  the 
same  manner  as  setting  the  tapets  in  the  barrel. 
Sometimes,  instead  of  cards,  small  slips  of  wood  are 
used,  with  pegs  fixed  upon  them,  to  act  upon  the 
needles  of  the  jacquard  machine,  and  these  pegs  are 
arranged  on  the  slips  of  wood  to  suit  the  pattern  that 
is  to  be  woven. 

Another  plan  is  to  have  the  small  jacquard  machine 
placed  at  the  side  of  the  loom,  which  has  the  advantage 
of  being  got  at  with  less  trouble  when  changing  the 
pattern.  There  are  many  modifications  for  working 
the  heddle  leaves  by  the  barrel  and  jacquard  machine 
placed  at  the  side  of  the  loom,  and  a  description  of  one 
of  the  best  will  be  sufficient  to  lead  to  a  knowledge  of 
the  others. 

For  illustration,  suppose  the  number  of  leaves  in  the 
web  to  be  20,  then  place  above  the  heddles  20  sets  of 
levers,  in  the  same  manner  as  those  explained  for 
diapers,  also  20  sets  below  the  heddles,  and  to  the  ends 
of  these  levers,  that  project  over  the  side  of  the  loom, 
there  is  attached  a  rod  with  a  hook  or  catch  to  each  of 
them.  This  gives  20  for  raising  the  heddles,  and  20 
for  sinking  them.  Each  heddle  leaf  is  connected  to  a 
lever  above  and  one  below ;  and  the  lifting  and  sinking 


270  THEORY  AKD  PRACTICE  OF 

of  the  leaves  of  heddles,  is  by  means  of  two  iron  bars, 
which  rise  and  fall  to  form  the  shed.  The  fulcrum  of 
the  iron  bars  is  placed  at  front  of  the  loom,  right  below 
the  lay,  in  a  line  with  the  fell  of  the  cloth ;  by  having 
them  placed  in  that  position,  each  heddle  leaf  forms  a 
shed  larger  than  the  one  immediately  before  it,  without 
any  alteration  in  the  cording  being  made  for  that 
purpose, 

The  hooked  rods  that  are  attached  to  the  levers,  are 
made  to  take  hold  of  the  iron  bars  by  means  of  springs, 
and  at  the  point  of  action,  before  the  bars  begin  to 
move  from  each  other,  the  barrel  or  card  puts  out  of 
gear  the  hooks  that  are  not  to  be  employed 
to  raise  or  sink  the  leaves.  The  bars  receive  their 
motion  from  a  cam  or  wyper,  which  is  made  to  give 
the  proper  size  of  shed.  It  will  be  obvious  that  any 
length  of  pattern  can  be  made  by  this  mounting,  if 
cards  are  used,  but  they  must  be  all  of  the  diced  or 
draught-board  pattern.  Thismountingisalsowelladapted 
for  an  index  for  the  patterns  of  check  work,  where  more 
shuttles  than  one  are  used.  Instead  of  cards,  or  the  com- 
mon round  barrel  being  employed  to  make  the  pattern, 
some  use  an  endless  chain,  which  is  made  to  revolve  on 
two  small  drums,  the  drums  being  made  with  notches 
to  correspond  to  the  links  of  the  chain. 

"When  cards  of  a  similar  kind  to  those  used  for  the 
common  jacquard  machine,  are  employed  for  the 
skeleton  machine,  it  is  better  to  get  them  made  of  thin 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


271 


iron;  when  the  pattern  is  one  of  those  that  is  not  likely 
to  go  soon  out  of  fashion,  as  they  will  last  much  longer 
than  the  paste-board  ones. 


DICED  WORK. 

Many  different  kinds  of  patterns  can  be  made  with 
heddle  leaves,  which  come  under  this  heading.  The 
principal  thing  to  be  attended  to  is  drawing  the  warp 
into  the  heddles.  The  most  simple  pattern  is  what  is 
called  the  draught-board;  a  sketch  of  it,  on  the  smallest 
scale,  is  given  at  No.  55.  It  will  be  seen  that  the 
pattern  is  made  by  reversing  the  tweel,  and  although 

No.  55. 


the  draught  is  given  only  once  over,  any  size  of  pattern 
can  be  made  that  the  web  can  admit  of,  the  whole  de- 
pending upon  how  the  web  is  drawn.  No.  55  is  a  five 
leaf  regular  tweel,  but  in  most  kinds  of  cloth  the  broken 
tweel  wiU  answer  best;  however,  this  will  show  how  the 
patterns  are  made.     If  the  web  to  be  woven  be  36 


272  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

inches  wide,  and  the  tweel  a  live  leaf  one,  then  ten 
leaves  are  required,  and  they  are  made  spaced  to  suit 
the  pattern,  otherwise,  the  heddles  must  be  set  to 
answer  it.  The  web  being  36  inches  wide,  the  largest 
pattern  that  can  be  woven  on  it,  of  the  draught-board  kind 
is  18  inches,  and  the  smallest  5  threads,  which  is  once 
over  the  draught ;  but  any  intermediate  size  of  pattern, 
between  the  5  threads  and  18  inches,  can  be  made, 
provided  that  the  pattern  fixed  upon  will  repeat,  a 
given  number  of  times,  in  the  breadth  of  the  web. 

By  employing  15  leaves  of  heddles,  which  would 
make  3  sets  for  a  five  leaf  tweel,  the  opportunity  of 
making  a  larger  variety  of  patterns  is  greatly  increased, 
and  some  very  complicated  things  can  be  done,  but  they 
have  always  that  stiff  appearance,  which  is  unavoidable 
in  figures  made  by  heddles.  There  is  nothing  yet  so 
good  as  the  full  harness,  for  making  neat  figures  on 
cloth,  and  the  only  thing  that  keeps  it  from  being 
generally  employed,  is  the  expense  that  it  takes  to 
make  large  patterns  with  it. 


DOUBLE  CLOTH  MOUNTING. 

What  is  meant  here  by  "double  cloth,"  is  the  combi- 
nation of  two  warps,  with  their  wefts.  For  some  kinds 
a  very  simple  mounting  can  do  for  them,  but  for  other 
kinds  they  require  a  harness. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  273 

The  principle  upon  which  double-cloth  is  made  is  as 
follows: — If  the  fabric  is  to  be  of  a  plain  texture,  four 
leaves  of  heddles  will  do,  two  for  the  one  warp  and  two 
for  the  other.  Although  two  warps  are  named  here 
for  the  sake  of  distinction,  the  whole  warp  yarn  may 
be  put  on  one  beam,  when  both  sides  of  the  cloth 
are  to  be  made  the  same. 

The  warp  will  require  to  be  drawn  through  the 
heddles,  in  the  same  order  as  shown  at  No.  56.  The 
letters,  A,  B,  C,  D,  represent  the  leaves,  and  the 
figures,  1,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6,  7,  and  8,  show  the  order  of 

No.  56. 


5            1 

A 

7 

3 

B 

6             2 

C 

8 

4 

D 

the  draught.  If  the  two  leaves,  A  and  B,  were  to  be 
raised  and  sunk  alternately,  allowing  C  and  D  to  stand 
still,  plain  cloth  would  be  produced,  and  the  warp  yarn 
drawn  into  C  and  D  would  either  be  above  or  below 
the  cloth,  but  more  likely  it  would  be  both  above  and 
below,  as  the  shuttle  would  be  driven  through  that 
part  of  the  warp,  at  random.  If  the  leaves  marked  C, 
D,  be  taken  down  every  shot,  when  A  and  B  are  work- 
ing plain  cloth,  then  all  the  warp  in  C  and  D  will  be 
under  the  cloth.  Again — if  the  leaves  C  and  D  be 
taken  up  every  shot,  when  the  leaves  A  and  B  are 

making  plain  cloth,  then  all  the  warp  in  C  and  D  will 

ii 


274  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

be  above  the  cloth.  If  A  be  raised,  and  the  other  three 
sunk  for  the  first  shot;  C  sunk,  and  the  other  three 
raised  for  the  second  shot;  B  raised,  and  the  other  three 
sunk  for  the  third  shot;  D  sunk,  and  the  other  three 
raised  for  the  fourth  shot,  and  this  repeated  for  several 
times,  the  whole  warp  will  be  woven  into  two  pieces  of 
cloth,  which  will  only  be  joined  at  the  selvages.  Let  this 
be  properly  understood,  and  the  method  for  making  double 
cloth  will  be  readily  comprehended. 

It  will  be  seen  from  No.  57  how  the  tapets  should 
be  arranged  in  the  barrel  to  produce  this  kind  of  cloth ; 
the  same  arrangement  also  answers  for  how  the  cards 
should  be  cut,  if  the  jacquard  machine  is  used  for  it ; 

No.  57. 


mm* 
m   3 


and  for  some  kinds  of  work,  although  it  be  plain  cloth, 
it  is  necessary  to  use  the  jacquard  machine. 

When  weaving  double  cloth  in  the  hand  loom,  one 
or  two  extra  treadles  can  produce  a  large  variety  of 
patterns,  as  the  weaver  can  remember  when  the  extra 
ones  are  to  be  brought  into  use;  but  in  the  power-loom 
the  mounting  requires  to  be  as  large  as  to  complete  one 
repeat  of  the  pattern.  The  pattern  given  at  No.  57 
can  be  woven  in  the  power-loom  with  a  barrel  with 
4  treads,  but  the  cloth  will  only  be  joined,  as  stated 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  275 

before,  at  the  selvages.  If  the  pattern  to  be  woven 
requires  100  shots,  the  same  as  described  for  No.  57, 
and  then  12  shots  to  join  the  two  webs,  that  would 
make  in  all  112  shots  for  one  repeat;  so  112  cards 
will  require  to  be  used,  if  woven  in  the  power  loom, 
whereas,  in  the  hand  loom  two  extra  treadles  would 
only  be  required  to  produce  the  same  effect. 


TUBE  WEAVING. 

Woven  tubes  are  used  for  many  different  purposes, 
such  as  those  employed  by  brewers  and  bleachers  for 
conveying  their  liquids  from  one  place  to  another; 
they  were  also  made  at  one  time  to  answer  for  the 
small  paper  tubes,  put  on  the  spindles  of  spinning 
frames,  to  form  the  bottom  of  the  pirns.  For  common 
grey  yarn  the  paper  ones  answer  very  well,  but  when 
the  yarn  is  to  be  bleached  in  the  cope,  the  paper  ones 
give  way,  and  waste  the  yarn  to  a  certain  extent.  It 
was  to  save  this  waste  that  cloth  ones  were  brought 
into  use,  and  an  explanation  of  how  they  were  woven 
will  give  the  reader  an  idea  how  any  other  kind  of 
tubes  can  be  made. 

The  most  difficult  thing  in  weaving  small  cloth 
tubes,  when  they  must  be  all  of  the  same  diameter, 
is  to  keep  them  to  the  proper  size,  because  the  least 
alteration  in  the  wefting,  alters  the  size  of  the  tube. 
A   very  simple  contrivance  keeps  them  all  the  same 


276  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

size,   but,  before  it   can  be   understood,    it   will  be 
necessary  to  explain  first  how  these  tubes  are  woven. 

In  weaving  tubes  for  long  lengths,  it  is  requisite  to 
have  the  yarn  that  is  to  compose  the  warp  of  each 
tube  on  a  reel  or  bobbin,  and  these  bobbins  are  put 
upon  an  arber,  which  is  placed  in  the  loom  in  the 
same  position  that  the  yarn  beam  occupies;  each  bobbin 
is  paced  by  a  separate  cord  or  spring.  If  the  loom 
they  are  to  be  woven  in  has  a  reed  space  of  42  inches, 
and  allowing  3  inches  for  each  tube,  then  14  tubes 
can  be  made  at  the  same  time;  and  the  heddles  will 
require  to  be  divided  into  14  divisions,  to  suit  the 
bobbins  that  hold  the  warp,  After  the  warp  is  drawn 
into  the  heddles,  in  the  order  as  shown  at  No.  56,  it 
it  is  taken  through  the  reed  at  regular  intervals.  The 
arrangement  for  the  tapets  is  shown  at  page  274, 
under  No.  57. 

The  lay  is  made  much  in  the  same  manner  as  a 
common  power-loom  lay,  without  the  ends  for  the 
shuttle  boxes,  and  it  has  no  protecting  apparatus  to 
stop  it  when  any  defect  takes  place,  as  it  is  not 
required,  the  warp  yarn  being  double,  it  is  sufficiently 
strong,  that,  when  the  shuttle  stops  in  the  shed,  the 
pace  on  the  bobbin  yields  to  it  without  breaking  the 
yarn.  On  the  front  of  the  lay  is  fixed  2  brackets  for 
a  wooden  slide  to  work  in,  and  on  this  slide  is  bolted 
a  small  brass  driver  for  each  shuttle,  and  one  more, 
which  makes  15  drivers  in  all  for  the  14  shuttles;  this 


TIIE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  27? 

slide  is  driven  from  the  common  picking  treadles, 
and,  as  it  moves  from  one  side  to  the  other,  it  drives 
the  small  shuttles  from  right  to  left,  and  from  left  to 
right,  through  the  sheds. 

The  shape  of  the  shuttle  is  like  the  letter  D,  half 
round,  the  straight  side  is  kept  to  the  reed,  and  if  the 
brass  driver  does  not  send  it  wholly  through  the  shed, 
the  other  side  being  part  of  a  circle,  when  the  shuttle 
comes  to  the  cloth  part  of  the  tube,  it  is  forced  to  take  its 
place  for  the  next  shot.  When  there  is  about  an  inch 
of  cloth  woven,  in  each  tube  there  is  placed  a  round 
piece  of  wood  of  the  same  diameter  as  the  internal 
size  of  the  tube,  which  is  kept  always  as  far  forward 
as  the  reed  will  touch  the  end  of  it  every  shot,  this 
piece  of  wood  keeps  the  tube  at  its  proper  size,  and 
the  wood  is  prevented  from  moving  forward  with  the 
cloth  by  a  piece  of  thin  iron  fixed  on  the  breast  beam, 
through  which  iron,  the  cloth  that  forms  the  tube  has  to 
pass  in  a  flattened  state;  this  iron  is  so  set  that  the 
end  of  the  round  piece  of  wood  is  always  kept  forward 
to  the  face  of  the  cloth. 

The  weft  used  for  these  tubes  is  double  yarn,  the 
same  as  the  warp,  and  it  is  wound  upon  small  bobbins 
made  to  suit  the  shuttle;  the  weft  passes  through  a 
small  eye  in  the  centre  of  the  circle  of  the  shuttle,  and  is 
kept  to  the  proper  tightness  with  a  small  spring,  which 
presses  on  the  weft  bobbin. 

After  the  tubes  are  woven,  they  are  put  on  brass 


278  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

wires,  about  5  feet  long,  and  the  wires  with  the  cloth 
on  them  are  submerged  into  boiling  starch ;  after  they 
are  dry,  the  wires  are  taken  out,  and  the  tubes  cut 
into  the  lengths  required.  By  putting  them  through 
this  process,  the  tubes  all  stand  open,  which  enables 
the  spinner  to  get  them  on  the  spindles  without 
difficulty. 

In  weaving  tubes  of  a  larger  diameter,  such  as 
water-pipes,  where  the  yarn  requires  to  be  coarse  and 
strong,  the  common  power-loom  is  not  so  applicable; 
therefore,  looms  are  made  for  the  purpose,  the  lay  of 
which  is  very  strong,  and  for  each  shuttle  (or  weft 
bobbin)  a  small  frame  is  made,  which  slides  into 
grooves  made  in  the  lay.  These  frames  are  made 
sufficiently  long,  so  that  the  ends  of  them  will  enter 
the  opposite  groove,  before  it  is  half  out  of  the  other 
groove. 

Some  of  these  tubes  are  woven  with  a  four  leaf 
tweel,  for  the  purpose  of  getting  more  weft  on  in  a  given 
space,  than  what  can  be  got  on  with  plain  weaving.  In 
this  case  eight  leaves  are  required,  which  makes  2  sets 
of  a  four  leaf  tweel;  the  warp  is  drawn  through  the 
heddles  in  each  set,  the  same  as  a  common  four  leaf 
tweel,  and  No.  58  shows  how  the  tapets  are  arranged 
in  the  barrel,  the  black  squares  represent  the  leaves 
that  are  lifted  to  form  the  shed. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


279 


No.  58. 


ITI 


It  will  be  obvious,  that  a  bcirrel  with  8  treads  will 
be  required  for  this. 


RICE  AND  SUGAR  BAGS. 

In  the  common  power  loom,  bags  for  holding  sugar 
are  made  with  the  same  tweel  as  shown  at  No.  58, 
and  it  will  be  observed,  that  2  leaves  are  raised,  and 
6  sunk  for  the  first  shot;  6  raised,  and  2  sunk  for  the 
second  shot,  and  so  on  alternately.  The  best  ones 
are  made  with  double  warp  and  weft,  which  makes 
a  very  strong  fabric;  they  are  also  used  for  holding 
rice.  For  this  sort  of  work  only  one  shuttle  is 
required,  there  being  only  one  bag  woven  at  the 
same  time.  The  advantage  of  having  them  made  in 
this  way  is,  that  they  have  no  seam,  consequently, 
they  are  much  stronger,  and  keep  the  sugar  better 
in.  The  weaver,  for  this  kind  of  work,  requires  to 
be  very  attentive,  to  see  that  none  of  the  warp 
threads,  when  broken,  are  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
shed;    otherwise,    the    two    fabrics   may   be   woven 


280  THEORY  AXD  PRACTICE  OF 

together  at  that  part  where  the  thread  is  in  the  shed, 
and  this  would  spoil  the  bag. 

In  general  these  bags  are  sewed  at  the  bottom,  in 
the  common  way,  but  they  can  be  made  so  as  no 
seam  is  required  at  all,  by  using  the  jacquard 
machine,  instead  of  the  barrel  for  working  the  heddle 
leaves.  It  is  requisite  in  starting  a  web  of  this  kind, 
to  have  it  treaded,  so  as  the  tweel  will  run  regularly 
round  the  bag,  and  not  to  allow  it  to  have  the 
appearance  of  a  reverse  tweel  at  the  selvages. 

From  what  has  been  said  on  this  subject, 
it  will  be  apparent  that  many  other  things  might  be 
woven  without  a  seam,  such  as  pillow  and  bolster 
slips,  bedding,  petticoats,  &c,  &c. 


BED  AND  TOILET  COVERS. 

Some  of  the  very  best  covers,  for  beds  and  toilets, 
are  made  on  the  principle  of  double  cloth  weaving. 
and  if  the  reader  will  look  at  what  is  stated  under 
the  head,  "Double  Cloth,"  he  will  more  readily  com- 
prehend what  follows. 

It  altogether  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  cover 
wanted,  what  set  of  reed,  also  what  kind  of  warp  and 
weft  should  be  used.  The  most  common  kind  of 
covers  is  made  with  four  leaves,  without  any  figure, 
the  one  side  of  which  is  made  with  finer  yarn  than 
the   other,   and  are  woven  together  by  having  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


281 


tapets  arranged  in  the  barrel,  as  shown  at  No.  59; 
the  draught  is  the  same  as  a  plain  web. 


No.  59. 


C  and  D  are  the  two  fore-leaves,  with  the  coarse 
warp  drawn  into  them;  A  and  B  are  the  two  back 
ones  with  the  fine  warp ;  the  figures,  Nos.  1,  2,  3,  4, 
5,  6,  7,  8,  represent  the  different  treads ;  the  black 
squares  are  the  leaves  that  are  to  be  raised,  and  the 
white  ones  those  that  are  to  be  sunk.      No.  1  tread 
makes  the  first  shed,  and  the  shuttle  with  the  coarse 
weft  is  put  through  it,  which  makes  the  first  shot  for 
the  top  side  of  the  cover.     No.  2  tread  makes  the  shed 
for  the  shuttle  with  the  fine  weft,  and  when  it  is  put 
through  the  first  shot  is  made  for  the  under  side  of  the 
cover.      No.  3  tread  makes  the  shed  that  lifts  all  the 
coarse  warp  and  sinks  the  fine ;  the  coarse  weft  is  put 
through  this  shed.      No  4  tread  makes  the  shed  which 
joins  the  two  warps,  and  the  fine  weft  is  put  through 
it.     The  treads,  Nos.  5,  6,  7,  and  8,  are  just  another 
repeat  of  the  same  ;  and  by  continuing  to  work  in  this 


— oJ 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


way,  a  cover  will  be  produced  with  one  side  fine  and 
the  other  coarse. 

All  the  variety  of  figuring  is  produced  upon  these 
covers  by  fixing  the  two  warps  together,  according  to 
the  pattern  wanted,  upon  the  following  principle : — 

No.  60. 


AH  CD 


13 


14 


Suppose  No.  60  to  be  treaded  according  to  how  it  is 
shown  at  the  figures,  1,  2,  3,  and  4,  until  the  loom  has 
woven  108  shots,  and  10  shots  of  weft  (Scotch  glass) 
put  on,  on  each  side  of  the  cover,  this  will  give  one 
inch  of  cloth  for  each  side,  without  putting  any  coarse 
weft  between  the  two  warps.  When  the  leaves  C  and 
D  are  treaded,  coarse  weft  is  put  in  ;  and  when  the 
leaves  A  and  B  are  treaded,  fine  weft  is  put  in.  The 
treads  5  and  6  join  the  two  fabrics  ;  and  it  is  done  by 
putting  in  fine  weft.      Then  the  treads,  Nos.  7,  8,  9, 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  283 

and  10;  are  repeated  for  the  same  number  of  shots  as 
the  figures,  1,  2,  3,  and  4,  which  will  make  another 
inch  of  cloth,  and  the  treads  11  and  12  are  those  that 
join  the  fabrics.  If  this  treading  was  continued,  a 
stripe  one  inch  broad  would  be  produced  without 
putting  anything  between  the  two  warps  ;  but  if  coarse 
weft  is  to  be  put  in  between  the  two  warps  for  filling, 
then  the  heddles  are  treaded  for  that  purpose,  in  the 
same  manner  as  shown  by  the  figures  13  and  14. 

To  make  this  very  simple  pattern  in  the  power  loom, 
it  will  require  at  least  218  cards,  or  two  different 
barrels  (or  shedding  gear),  which  can  be  brought  into, 
or  put  out  of  motion,  by  an  index  whereon  the  pattern 
is  arranged;  but  the  cards  with  the  small  jacquard 
machine  is  the  most  simple  way  of  doing  it.  In  the 
hand  loom  it  can  be  woven  with  a  few  treadles  and 
marches.  There  are  many  small  patterns  that  can  be 
woven  on  bed  and  toilet  covers,  with  heddle  leaves,  by 
employing  as  many  as  16,  and  varying  the  draught; 
but  when  a  fine  flowery  figure  is  wanted  for  the  centre, 
and  a  border  all  round  the  cover,  a  harness  must  be 
used  to  produce  the  patterns ;  and,  by  taking  advantage 
of  the  harness  and  heddle  leaves,  any  figure  can  be 
woven  to  the  extent  of  the  cover,  and  how  that  can  be 
done  is  fully  explained  in  Chapter  V.,  page  153.  The 
only  alteration  that  requires  to  be  made,  is  in  the 
tweeling  barrel  that  works  the  heddles,  and  a  double 
box  put  at  each  side  of  the  lay. 


284  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

Like  any  other  figured  work,  the  first  thing  to  be 
done,  is  to  put  the  figures  on  design  paper,  and  consi- 
der what  kind  of  tweel  is  for  the  under  side  of  the 
cloth,  and  what  is  for  the  upper.  The  harness  being 
employed  to  form  the  figure,  and  to  fix  the  two  fabrics 
together;  and  the  heddle  leaves  for  weaving  the 
grounds,  which  can  be  either  plain  or  tweeled,  or  the 
one  plain  and  the  other  tweeled.  It  will  be  plain  to 
those  who  have  studied  svhat  has  already  been  written, 
that  any  kind  of  figured  bed-cover  can  be  woven,  by 
using  this  kind  of  mounting,  by  whatever  name  they 
may  go  under;  such  as  diamond  quilt,  waved  quilt, 
Marseilles  quilts,  and  fancy  quilts,  with  any  colour  that 
may  be  thought  proper  to  be  put  in,  either  in  the  warp 
or  weft.  With  all  those  opportunities,  some  very 
beautiful  things  may  be  woven  on  bed  and  toilet 
covers. 


WEAVING  BROAD  CLOTH  IN  A  NARROW 
LOOM. 

CRUMB-CLOTHS. 

Crumb-cloths  are,  in  general,  either  made  of  linen 
or  worsted  yarn,  and  are  used  for  putting  on  the  top 
of  carpets  for  the  purpose  of  keeping  them  clean. 
They  are  considered  better  to  have  no  seam  in  them, 
and  suppose  one  is  wanted  six  yards  wide,  it  would 
require  a  loom  with  at  least  19  feet  of  reed  space  to 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  285 

weave  it,  which  comes  to  be  very  expensive ;  to 
obviate  the  expense  of  such  a  large  loom  they  can  be 
woven  in  a  loom  two  yards  wide,  on  the  double-cloth 
principle,  in  the  following  manner  : — 

Let  the  fabric  be  equal  to  a  1000,  and  the  shrinkage 
be  one  in  twenty,  then  the  space  that  will  require  to 
be  filled  in  the  reed  will  be  222  inches,  if  woven 
in  the  common  way ;  but  in  an  eight-fourth  loom, 
with  six  threads  in  the  split,  the  space  required  will 
be  only  74  inches ;  and  all  the  warp  that  is  required 
will  be  put  on  the  beam,  so  as  to  answer  this  space 
(viz.,  74  inches),  the  quantity  of  which  is  12,000  ends 
for  the  warp  in  the  web.  For  the  purpose  of  making 
our  explanation  better  understood,  we  will  suppose 
the  ground  for  the  crumb-cloth  to  be  a  four  leaf 
tweel,  and  to  accomplish  this,  twelve  leaves  will  be 
required,  as  there  is  in  reality  three  webs  on  the  one 
beam,  and  each  web  requires  four  leaves. 

The  web  that  is  to  be  uppermost  can  be  drawn  on 
the  four  leaves  that  are  next  the  lay,  the  centre  web 
drawn  into  the  four  centre  leaves,  and  the  under  web 
into  the  four  back  leaves. 

The  first  shot  that  is  thrown  is  for  the  top  web,  the 
second  for  the  centre  web,  and  the  third  for  the  under 
web.  If  the  first  shot  be  thrown  from  the  right  hand, 
the  top  web  will  be  joined  to  the  centre  one  at  the 
left  hand,  as  the  second  shot  must  be  thrown  from  the 
left,  and  the  third  shot  being  thrown  from  the  right, 


286  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

the  centre  web  and  the  under  one  will  be  joined  at  the 
right  hand;  the  fourth  shot  is  put  through  the  under 
web  from  the  left  hand,  which  forms  the  selvage  for 
that  side  of  the  crumb-cloth;  the  fifth  shot  is  put 
through  the  centre  web  from  the  right,  and  the  sixth 
shot  through  the  top  web  from  the  left,  and  back  again 
through  the  top  web,  which  forms  the  other  selvage  of 
the  crumb-cloth;  and  this  is  repeated  for  the  whole 
length  of  the  web. 

Examples  are  already  given  how  a  four  leaf  tweel  is 
drawn  and  treaded,  and  the  main  thing  to  be  attended 
to  in  drawing  this  web,  is  to  draw  each  set  the  same  as 
any  other  four  leaf  tweel,  taking  one  thread  on  each  set 
alternately.  It  will  be  apparent,  that  a  barrel  with 
24  treads  will  be  required  to  work  this  cloth,  as  it 
takes  six  shots  to  make  one  repeat  of  the  wefting,  and 
four  shots  to  make  one  repeat  of  the  tweel;  so  that  6 
multiplied  by  4  is  24,  the  number  of  treads  required. 

The  explanations  given  here  will  only  do  for  a  cloth 
with  a  plain  or  four  leaf  ground,  but  if  figures  are 
required,  a  harness,  or  larger  mounting,  for  working 
the  sheds,  will  be  necessary,  which  can  easily  be 
applied  even  to  this  kind  of  work.  When  the  cloth  is 
woven,  and  taken  off  the  loom,  it  will  measure  three 
times  the  breadth  that  it  stands  in  it,  whatever  that 
breadth  may  be. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  287 


CARPETS. 


Many  of  the  carpets  that  are  sold  at  the  present 
time  are  woven  upon  the  double  cloth  principle,  and  are 
called  two  ply  and  three  ply  carpets.  If  the  warps  are 
to  form  the  flowers,  they  may  be  woven  with  one 
shuttle,  and  the  heddles  (or  harness)  are  made  to  lift 
that  portion  of  the  warp  which  is  requisite  to  form  the 
flower.  The  colours  that  are  introduced  into  the 
flowers,  will  depend  upon  the  arrangement  of  them 
in  the  warps.  Suppose  it  is  a  three  ply  carpet,  and 
each  warp  to  be  all  one  colour,  one  red,  one  blue,  and 
one  orange;  the  designer  will  have  only  these 
three  colours  to  work  upon  in  drawing  the  patterns. 
They  may  be  drawn  so  as  one  flower  may  have  all 
the  three  colours  in  it,  or  just  the  one,  that  will 
depend  entirely  upon  what  is  wanted;  the  scope  for 
variety  with  one  shuttle,  when  there  is  three  warps 
employed,  is  greatly  increased  over  the  two  ply 
carpets,  as  one  set  of  flowers  may  be  all  red,  one  set 
all  blue,  another  set  all  orange,  another  set  red  and 
blue,  another  set  red  and  orange,  another  set  orange 
and  blue,  and  another  set  red,  blue,  and  orange, 
besides  all  the  imaginable  arrangements  of  the 
colours  that  maj  be  introduced  into  the  different 
warps  in  the  .shape  of  stripes.  When  only  one 
shuttle  is  employed,  and  that  shuttle  to  throw  in  blue 
weft,  the  figure  will  be  brightest  where  the  blue  weft 


288  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

crosses  the  blue  warp ;  but,  so  as  the  colours  may  all 
be  as  bright  as  possible  with  the  one  wefting,  the 
warp  of  the  web  is  made  much  coarser  than  the  weft. 

Another  way  of  making  two  and  three  ply  carpets, 
which  makes  a  superior  article,  is  to  have  as  many 
colours  in  the  weft  as  there  is  in  the  warp.  This 
may  cause  the  use  of  a  great  number  of  shuttles,  but 
it  brings  up  fine  bright  flowers  where  the  same  colour 
of  weft  and  warp  are  made  to  cross  each  other;  this 
is  done  by  observing  what  card  is  made  to  lift  the 
harness  for  the  different  colours,  and  putting  in  a 
shuttle  with  the  same  colour  of  weft  as  the  warp 
which  it  is  to  cross,  to  form  the  flower. 

In  designing  patterns  for  this  kind  of  •  work, 
particular  care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  design 
painted,  so  as  the  card  cutter  will  know  what  parts 
are  to  be  cut,  and  what  are  to  be  left  blank  on  each 
card.  For,  in  reality,  there  will  be  three  different 
sets  of  cards  required  for  a  three  ply  carpet,  although 
they  are  all  laced  together  as  one  set  for  the  weaver. 

For  some  of  the  more  simple  kinds  of  carpets,  with 
small  figures  woven  on  them,  instead  of  using  the 
jacquard  machine  for  working  the  harness,  a  barrel  is 
placed  above  the  loom,  whereon  the  pattern  is 
arranged.  It  is  something  similar  to  the  barrel  of  an 
organ,  and  the  small  pieces  of  wires  that  are  fixed  in 
it  to  play  the  tune,  are  made  to  move  that  part  of 
the  harness  which  is  to  be  lifted  to  form  the  figure,  the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  289 

particulars  of  which  need  not  be  explained  here,  as 
the  movements  are  similar  to  those  described  under 
tweeling  mountings,  the  wires  being  arranged  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  tapets  are  in  the  tweeling  or 
diaper  barrels. 

Mr.  Morton  of  Kilmarnock,  at  one  time  made  these 
barrels,  to  a  considerable  extent,  for  weaving  carpets; 
but  the  cards  for  the  jacquard  machine  can  be  made 
much  cheaper  now,  which,  to  a  certain  extent,  super- 
sedes the  use  of  Mr.  Morton's  barrel,  even  for  small 
patterns.  This  barrel  does  for  other  kinds  of  figured 
work  as  well  as  for  carpets;  and  it  may  be  observed 
that  it  requires  to  be  divided  into  as  many  divisions 
as  there  are  lifts  of  the  harness  in  one  repeat  of  the 
pattern,  and  that  the  wires  or  pegs  are  put  in  accord- 
ing to  the  figure  on  the  design  paper. 

We  have  given  in  this  chapter  an  explanation  of 
mountings  for  working  the  different  kinds  of  tweels, 
from  a  three  to  a  sixteen  leaf.  In  that  explanation, 
the  wyper,  the  pulley,  the  scroll,  and  the  star  kinds 
have  been  taken  notice  of  for  sinking  the  heddle 
leaves,  also  different  plans  for  lifting  the  heddles,  such 
as  weights,  springs,  and  the  jacquard  machine.  We 
will  finish  this  chapter  by  briefly  noticing  a  few  other 
plans  for  working  the  heddle  leaves;  for  to  make 
remarks  on  all  would  take  up  too  much  space. 

Mr.  Patrick  Robertson,  of  Rutherglen  Weaving 
Mill,  took  out  a  patent  some  years  ago,  the  principle 

L  1 


290  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

of  which  was  to  control  the  movements  of  heddle 
leaves  for  certain  kinds  of  work,  and  his  plan  was 
considered  a  very  good  one ;  however,  our  remarks, 
under  the  following  head,  will  not  be  entirely  con- 
fined to  this  patent,  but  will  embrace  different  ways 
how  the  same  kind  of  work  can  be  woven. 


PLAIN  AND  TWEEL,  WITH  WEFT  CORDS. 

It  is  shown  at  page  254,  how  four  shots  of  plain 

and  four  shots  of  tweel  cloth,   alternately,  can  be 

woven.     When  the  patterns  are  small  (for  any  that 

will  be  completed  under  37  shots),  the  tweeling barrel 

is  the  simplest  mounting  that  can  be  used;  but  if  a 

pattern,  the  same  as  the   one  given  under  No.  61, 

requires  to  be  woven,  then  it  cannot  be  made  with 

the  barrel. 

No.  61. 


7  shots  foi 

*  a  cord. 

24      " 

plain  cloth. 

7      " 

a  cord. 

49      " 

tweel  cloth. 

7      " 

a  cord. 

24      " 

plain  cloth. 

118 
This  pattern  is  woven  with  four  leaves,  the  warp 
is  drawn  through  the  heddles,  in  the  same  order  as 
for  plain  work;  and  for  making  the  plain  cloth  part 
of  the  pattern,  the  common  wypers  are  used,  and  for 
the  tweel  part  of  it  a  common  four  leaf  barrel.     The 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  291 

four  leaves  of  heddles  are  corded  to  the  four  tweeling 
treadles  in  the  usual  way,  but  the  two  plain  treadles 
are  corded  so  as  the  leaves  are  at  liberty  to  be  moved 
by  the  tweeling  barrel  when  it  comes  into  motion; 
both  the  plain  treadles  and  tweeling  ones  are  so 
arranged  that  they  can  be  put  in  and  out  of  gear  at 
pleasure.  A  ratchet  wheel  may  be  employed  as  the 
regulator  of  the  pattern,  and  for  this  one  it  will 
require  118  teeth.  The  first  part  of  the  pattern  is  a 
cord  which  is  made  by  putting  in  7  shots  of  weft  into 
the  same  shed;  this  is  accomplished  by  keeping  the 
plain  shed  open  for  7  shots,  the  weft  being  made  to 
turn  upon  one  single  thread  at  each  selvage;  the 
selvage  threads  may  be  made  to  perform  this  part 
independent  of  the  heddle  leaves.  The  second  part 
of  the  pattern  is  24  shots  for  plain  cloth.  The  third 
part  of  the  pattern  is  again  7  shots  of  weft  for  a  cord. 
The  fourth  part  is  49  shots  for  the  tweeling.  The 
fifth  part  is  again  7  shots  for  a  cord;  and  then  for 
the  sixth  part  24  shots  for  plain.  This  makes  one 
repeat  of  the  pattern,  which  is  all  arranged  on  the 
ratchet  wheel.  On  the  one  side  of  the  wheel  there 
is  placed  nobs  or  pins,  for  putting  the  shedding 
motion  into  gear;  the  pins  on  the  other  side  are  used 
for  putting  the  shedding  motion  out  of  gear. 

It  will  be  evident,  from  what  has  already  been 
stated,  that,  instead  of  a  ratchet  wheel  for  the 
regulator  of  the  pattern,  the  jacquard  machine,  and  the 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

endless  chain,  used  for  working  the  heddl<  will 

answer  the  same  purpose;  however,  the  wheel  will 
answer  in  this  place  for  the  illustration  of  the  other 
parts. 

The  regulator  of  the  pattern  should  be  got  at,  with 
the  least  possible  trouble  to  the  weaver,  and  easily 
shifted  to  its  proper  position  when  any  derangement 
takes    place    in   the    pattern.      This    has    not   been 
attended  to  in   any  of  the  looms  which    has   come 
under  the  notice  of  the  writer,  but  in  some  plans 
very  reverse,  by  putting  the  index  or  regulator  of 
the  pattern  away  below  the  loom.     To  any  person  ai 
all  acquainted  with  power-loom  weaving,  it  will  be 
apparent  that  the  best  place  is  to   have  it    at  the 
handle  side  of  the  loom,  right  opposite  the  weaver,  on 
the  upright  of  the  heddle-bearer.      Suppose  it  pla 
in  that  position,  all  that  is  required  to  be  in  connec- 
tion with  the  ratchet  wheel  is  two  small  levers;  these 
levers  when  acted  upon,  put  in  motion  the  apparatus 
for  shifting  the  treadles  or  wypers ;  for  the  object  to 
be  attained,  can  be  done,  either  by  shifting  the  wypers 
from  off  the  treadles,  or  by  allowing  the  treadles  to 
fall  out  of  gear  from  the  wypers.      If  the  wypers  are 
to  be  acted  upon,  they  are  made  to  slide  upon  their 
respective  shafts  to  one  side,  to  be  out  of  gear  with 
the  treadles.      This  is  accomplished  by  having  a  long 
key  made  fast  on  the  shaft,  and  a  key  seat  cut  in  the 
wypers  to  correspond  to  it.      The  proper  time  for  the 


TITE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 

iers  to  be  shifted,  is  when  the  heddle  lea^ 

close;  and  when  the  one  set  goes  into  gear  the  other 
must  go  out  at  the  same  instant. 

When  the  wypers  are  to  he  kept  always  in  the  same 
place  upon  their  shafts,  and  the  treadle  to  be  acted 
upon  for  changing  the  shedding  motion,  a  small  arbor 
is  placed  tor  each  set  of  treadles,  right  below  the 
treadle  heel  pins.  These  arbors  are  fitted  with  an 
eccentric  on  each  end,  for  supporting  the  treadle  heel 
pin,  and  a  slit  is  made  in  the  treadle  heel,  for  the 
purpose  of  allowing  the  pin  to  move  up  or  down. 
When  the  arbor  is  turned,  so  as  the  full  side  of  the 
eccentrics  are  up,  the  treadles  will  be  in  gear  with  the 
wypers,  and  that  set  of  treadles  will  be  put  in  motion 
for  shedding  the  heddles  ;  the  reverse  will  take  place 
when  the  full  side  of  the  eccentrics  are  down.  The 
same  appliance  which  can  shift  the  wypers,  can  be 
made  to  turn  the  arbors,  and  that  may  consist  of 
either  a  spring  or  weight,  or  a  lever  brought  into 
contact  with  a  cam,  put  on  the  under  shaft  of  the 
loom  for  that  purpose. 

Thi  gements  just  explained,  place  the  wypers 

for  v.  rlie  plain  cloth  on  the  common  wyper 

shaft:     mt,  by  making  suitable  wypers  for  the  plain 
cloth,  .  be  fixed  on  the  same  shaft  with  the 

twee  and,  in  many  instances,  this  is  the  pre- 

ferali         iy  of  doing  it. 


•2:>4  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

TAPE  CHECKS,  MADE  WITH  ONE  SHUTTLE. 

Tape  checks  are  now  very  common ;  they  were 
originally  made  in  the  hand-loom,  but  now  mostly 
made  by  power.  The  ground  of  the  cloth  is  similar  to 
that  of  a  jaconet,  and  they  are  striped  in  the  warp  and 
weft,  by  putting  in  coarser  yarn,  or  a  number  of  plies 
of  fine,  to  form  the  stripes.  They  are  taken  notice  of 
here  for  the  purpose  of  explaining  how  they  are  made 
with  one  shuttle ;  and  for  the  guidance  of  those 
unacquainted  with  this  fabric,  it  may  be  of  use  to 
state  what  numbers  of  yarns  they  are  made  of: — 

For  a  1000  60s  Warp,  with  80s  weft. 
„      12™  70s      „         „     90s    „ 
„      U°°80s     „         ..    100s     „ 

The  sizes  of  yarn  given  here  are  those  that  are 
commonly  used7  but  some  tape  checks  are  made  with 
much  finer  yarns,  for  the  purpose  of  making  the 
ground  of  the  cloth  more  transparent.  Suppose  the 
pattern  to  be  2  inches  of  fine  and  12  shots  of  coarse 
weft  alternately,  the  coarse  yarn  being  two  ply  of  40s, 
and  the  fine  80s  single,  the  usual  way  to  make  this 
pattern  is  to  have  one  shuttle  for  the  fine  and  another 
for  the  coarse  weft,  and  change  them  either  by  hand 
or  with  a  double  box. 

To  make  this  pattern  with  one  shuttle,  the  same 
apparatus  that  has  been  explained  for  making  the 
cord  in  No.  61,  will  do  for  making  the  tape  in  this 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  295 

pattern,  by  putting  in  4  shots  of  No.  80s  in  one  shed, 
then  changing  the  shed  and  putting  in  other  4  shots, 
and  repeating  this  for  12  times,  which  will  be  equal 
to  12  shots  of  coarse  weft,  because  4  ply  of  80s  are 
equal  to  2  ply  of  40s. 

After  this,  the  wypers  are  allowed  to  work  two 
inches  of  plain  cloth  to  form  the  body  of  the  check, 
and  that  will  complete  the  pattern.  It  will  be 
apparent  that  this  plan  of  making  tape  checks  is 
more  suitable  for  small  patterns  than  large  ones. 

For  keeping  the  shed  open  for  the  purpose  of 
throwing  in  more  shots  than  one,  some  parties  do  it 
differently  from  the  method  just  explained.  One  of 
the  plans  is  to  draw  the  small  pulley  out  from  under 
the  wyper,  and,  by  doing  so,  it  is  not  acted  upon  by 
the  wyper  to  form  the  shed,  while  the  other  is  locked 
down  to  hold  the  shed  open.  Another  way,  is  to 
have  a  spiral  spring  placed  between  one  of  the  treadles 
and  the  heddles,  this  spring  to  be  sufficiently  strong  to 
form  the  shed  when  the  other  treadle  is  not  locked, 
and  when  it  is  locked  to  keep  the  shed  open.  The 
spring  will  yield  to  the  action  of  the  wyper.  Another 
way,  is  to  have  both  wypers  loose  on  the  shaft,  and  a 
clutch  for  each  wyper,  which  can  be  made  to  gear 
with  them,  when  their  actions  are  required  for  the 
shedding. 

There  is  another  machine  for  working  heddle 
leaves,  known  in  the  trade  by  the  name,   "  dobie," 


296  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

which  some  manufacturers  use  iu  preference  to  tho.^e 
plans  just  described.  This  machine  is  very  well  got 
up,  and  is  one  of  those  which  will  work  almost  any 
kind  of  pattern  that  can  be  made  with  heddles.  It 
is  placed  in  the  same  position  on  the  loom  as  the 
>ki-leton  jacquard  machine  ;  and  as  it  is  just  another 
modification  of  the  jacquard  machine,  no  further 
notice  of  it  is  required  in  this  place. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  297 


CHAPTER  VIII. 
CALCULATIONS,  TABLES,  &c 


COSTING  GOODS. 

The  meaning  of  costing  is  to  find,  by  calculation, 
what  money  it  will  cost  the  manufacturer  to  make  a 
given  piece  of  cloth.  It  is  very  important  that  the 
person  whose  charge  it  is  to  rate  the  goods 
should  have  some  uniform  method  to  keep  by, 
because,  changing  from  one  system  to  another,  they 
are  apt  to  forget  some  item  in  their  calculation; 
therefore,  before  making  any  further  remarks  about 
the  costing  of  goods,  we  will  give  a  few  specimens  of 
rating.  The  prices  affixed  are  nominal,  as  the  speci- 
mens given  are  merely  to  show  the  principle  of  rating 
goods. 


Ml 


298  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

Bating  for  50  yards  of  a  36  inch  1200  shirting, 
with  14  shots. 

Lbs.        Rate.         Pence. 

Length,  50  yards,       .... 
Width,  36  inches,        .... 

Splits,  1265, 

Ends,  2530, 

Warp  No.  32's,  165  hanks,  -         -         -  5|£0     1     3       Hi 

Weft  No.  32's,  192^  hanks,         -         -  6       0     1     2       84 

Warping,  ------  2 

Dressing,  ------  5 

Weaving,  ------  25 

Charges,   ------  20 


Total  cost, 214^ 

Discount,  5  per  cent.,  ...  101 

Cost  per  yard  4£d.,     -  225^ 

To  sell  at  4f  d.  per  yard,  5  per  cent,  off, 

It  is  better,  when  rating  goods,  to  pnt  down  the 
amount  in  pence,  as  in  the  specimen  given,  and  also 
to  add,  as  in  this  case,  the  shrinkage  and  waste  into 
the  number  of  hanks  of  both  warp  and  weft. 

In  the  above  rating  the  whole  cost,  with  5  per  cent, 
added,  is  225^  pence,  which  when  divided  by  50  (the 
length  of  the  piece),  shows  the  price  to  be  4|d.  per 
yard. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  299 

Rating  for  a  1200  tape  check  with  11  shots. 

Lbs.         Rate.         Pence. 

Length,  50  yards,        .... 

Breadth,  32|  inches,    - 
Splits,  1024  for  fine,  96  for  coarse,  =  1120, 
Ends,  2048,  No.  70's,  430,  No.  50,  =  2478, 

Warp  No.  70's,  130  hanks,           -         -      1.85    £0     2     3       50£ 
Warp' No.  50's,  28  hanks,  -         -         -        .56       0     1     6       10 
Weft  No.  90's,  120  hanks,  -         -         -      J  .33       0     2     2       34f 
Weft  No.  40's,  2  ply,  20  hanks,  -         -        .50       0     1     3         7£ 
Dressing, Si- 

Weaving,  ------  22 

Charges,   ------  20 


Total  cost,  ---"..  148 

Discount,  -----  g 


Cost  per  yard,  3.12  per  yard,        -         -  156 

To  sell  at  14s.  per  piece,      - 

In  the  above  fabric  there  is  430  ends  of  No.  50's 
warp  for  the  tape,  and  12  tapes  in  the  breadth  rf  the 
web,  giving  34  ends  for  each  tape,  and  22  ends  for 
selvage  yarn.  There  are  8  splits  occupied  for  each 
tape,  with  4  ends  in  each  split,  except  the  two  outside 
splits,  they  having  5  ends  in  each,  to  form  a  cord  or 
finish  at  the  edges  of  the  tape;  this  makes  up  the  34 
ends  for  each  tape. 


300  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

Eating  for  a  blue  and  white  check. 

Lbs.  Rate.         Pence. 


Reed,  10°  °, 

- 

Shots,  12,          .... 

- 

Length,  72  yards,       ... 

- 

Breadth,  38  inches,     -         -         - 

- 

Splits,  1065,      .--         - 

- 

Ends,  1062  for  blue,  1068  for  white, 

=  2130, 

Warp  24's  for  blue,  102  hanks,    - 

-     4.25 

£0 

1 

0 

51 

Warp  20's  for  white,  102  hanks,  - 

-     5.10 

0 

0 

11 

56| 

Weft  20's  for  blue,  123  hanks,      - 

-     6.15 

0 

0 

10 

6H 

Weft  16's  for  white,  123  hanks,  - 

-     7.68 

0 

0 

9* 

73* 

Bleaching  half  of  the  warp  and  weft 

,     -    12.78 

0 

0 

1 

13 

Dyeing, 

-    10.40 

0 

0 

5 

m 

Winding  11J  spindles,  warp  at  Id. 

13f  weft,  l|d., 

32 

Warping, 

- 

5 

Dressing  -         -         -         -         - 

- 

9 

Weaving,           - 

- 

115 

Charges,  ----- 

- 

24 

Total  cost  nett,  ....  493 

Price  per  yard,  6.84,  -         -         -         - 
Selling  price  per  yard,  7£d. 

The  above  rating  is  made  out  on  the  supposition 
that  the  web  is  to  be  woven  in  the  hand-loom,  the 
web  being  dressed  and  prepared  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  the  power-loom.  The  white  warp  is  rather 
less  than  56),  pence,  also  the  white  weft  is  less  than 
7 3 J,  but  the  manufacturer  takes  the  benefit  of  the 
fractions. 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING. 


301 


FORM  FOR  RATING  BOOK. 


Date,    - 

Reed, 

Shots,  - 

Length,     - 

Breadth, 

Splits, 

Ends  or  runners, 

Warp,        cotton, 


Warp, 

Warp, 

Weft, 

Weft, 

Whip, 

Bleaching, 

Dyeing, 

Winding, 


silk, 

lace  yarn, 
cotton, 
silk, 


hanks, 
hanks, 
hanks, 
hanks, 
hanks, 


spindles, 


Warping, 
Dressing,  - 
Drawing  or  twisting, 
Weaving,  - 
Finishing, 
Charges,    - 
Total  cost, 
Price  per  piece, 
Price  per  yard, 


The  above  is  considered  one  of  the  best  forms,  as  it 
will  answer  for  most  kinds  of  work;  and  the  manufac- 
turer, by  having  the  rating-book  ruled  and  printed 
according  to  this  form,  or  any  other  he  may  think 
better,  will  save  himself  a  considerable  amount  of 
trouble.  A  blank  space  should  be  left  at  the  bottom 
of  each  page  for  remarks. 


Lbs.      Rate.    Pence 


,;nj  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

ONCOST  OR. CHARGES. 

Before  the  charges  can  be  properly  ascertained  for 
any  piece  of  goods,  it  is  necessary  to  know  what  may 
be  called  the  rent  of  the  loom,  also  the  sum  that  is 
required  for  furnishings,  &c,  and  this  will  entirely 
depend  upon  the  nature  of  the  cloth  to  be  woven. 

For  some  power-loom  factories,  where  common 
light  cloth  is  to  be  woven,  the  whole  outlay  for 
buildings,  boilers,  engines,  gearing,  winding,  warping, 
and  dressing  machines;  looms,  water,  steam,  and  gas 
pipes,  along  with  warehouse  furniture,  will  not  be 
more  than  £21  per  loom,  supposing  the  factory  to 
be  as  large  as  will  contain  500  looms,  as  the  smaller 
the  factory  is  it  will  cost  the  more  per  loom. 

For  weaving  some  kinds  of  goods,  the  outlay  per 
loom  is  as  high  as  £80,  before  cloth  can  be  made. 
However,  we  will  take  the  outlay  at  £30  per  loom 
for  a  data,  to  show  how  the  oncost  expenses,  or 
charges  are  found;  what  that  £30  is  made  up  of  will 
be  shown  in  another  place. 

In  a  mill  with  500  looms,  the  following  sums 
affixed  to  the  different  articles,  have  been  found  in 
practice  to  be  nearly  correct,  taking  an  average  of  a 
few  years.  This  statement,  except  the  first  seven 
items,  and  two  or  three  others,  was  given  to  the 
writer  some  years  ago,  by  a  manager  in  the  power- 
loom  trade,  who   has   had  long    experience   in   the 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  303 

management  of  power-loom  factories;  but  every 
manufacturer  will  require  to  find  out  the  exact  sum  for 
himself,  which  can  be  easily  done  at  the  end  of  six  or 
twelve  months.  The  amounts  given  in  this  place  are 
for  one  year. 

STATEMENT  OF  EXPENSES  FOR  ONE  YEAR. 

500  looms  at  the  rate  of  £30  each  is  £15,000. 

1 — Interest  on  £15,000  at  5  per  cent.,          -         -  £750  0  0 

2 — Depreciation  for  one  year,  -  750  0  0 

3 — Insurance  on  Mill  and  Stock,           -         -         -  270  0  0 

4 — Feu  duty,  poor  and  police  rates,  &c,  say       -  240  0  0 

5 — For  gas,  nett, 114  8  10 

6 — Water  for  boilers,  &c,        -         -         -         -  95  0  0 

7 — Manager's  salary, 180  0  0 


£2399  8  10 

8— Fuel,  1245  waggons,  at  4s.  6d.,            -         -  280  2  6 

9 — Reed-maker's  account  for  one  year,           -         -  65  10  0 

10— Heddles, 133  0  0 

11 — Rods,  heddles,  shafts,  and  shuttles,           -         -  57  8  0 

12 — Castings,  iron,  and  work  done  out,       -         -  279  0  0 

13 — Ironmongery, 33  00 

14— Brushes, 24  16  6 

15 — Tinsmith's  account,       -         -         -         -         -  19  00 

16 — Rope-spinner's  account  for  pace  cord,  &c,      -  22  0  0 

17 — Shuttle  cords, 146  0  0 

18— Oil,  Tallow,  and  Soap,         ....  280  0  0 

19 — Hecldle  paint, 6  12  0 

20— Wood, 27  0  0 


Carried  forward,       -         -         -  £3772  17  10 


304 


THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 


Brought  forward, 
21 — Shuttle  drivers,    - 
22— File-cutter, 
23 — Cooperage,  - 
24 — Leather,  - 
25 — Glazier's  account, 
26 — Slater's  account, 
27 — Plumber's  account, 
28 — Stationery. 
29 — Doctor's  Expenses, 
30 — Incidental  expenses,  - 


£3772  17 

10 

25 

10 

0 

6 

5 

0 

3 

8 

0 

56 

0 

0 

11 

10 

0 

4 

7 

0 

3 

14 

0 

27 

15 

0 

5 

0 

0 

69 

11 

O 

£3985 

17 

10 

To  the  above  list  must  be  added  the  following  sums 
for  ivages. 

31 — 1  Watchman  for  night,  15s.  per  week,      -  -      £39  0  0 

32 — 1  Gate-keeper,  10s.  per  week,     -         -  -             26  0  0 

33 — 2  Sweepers  for  cleaning,  &c,  7s.  6d.,        -  -         39  0  0 

34 — 1  Engineman,  24s.  per  week,      -         -  -             62  8  0 

35— For  porterage, -         32  0  0 

36 — Blacksmith  and  Mechanics'  wages,        -  -           176  16  0 

37 — Wages  for  warehouse  hands,  -  169  0  0 

38 — Dressing-master,  30s.  per  week,  -         -  -             78  0  0 

39 — Twisting-master,  20s.  per  week,      -         -  -         52  0  0 

40 — Cleaning  flues,  boilers,  &c,          ...  600 

41 — Bent  for  town  warehouse,  and  taxes,         -  -         90  0  0 

42 — Salesman,  clerk,  and  porters'  wages,      -  -           270  0  0 

43 — Postage  stamps,  and  other  expenses,         -  -         10  0  0 


£5086     1  10 


After  taking  off  the  holidays,   fastdays,   &c,  not 
more  than  300  working  days  can  be  calculated  upon 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  305 

for  one  year;  so  the  sum,  £5086  Is.  10d.,  divided  by 
300,  and  the  product  by  500  (the  number  of  looms), 
will  give  the  charge  for  one  loom  per  day. 

EXAMPLE. 

£5086     1  10 
20 


101721 
12 

300)1220662(4068 
1200 


2066 
1800 


2662 
2400 

262 


Say  4069 
)4069 
4000 


500)4069(8^ 


69 


552 


This  calculation  shows  that  the  expense  for  one 
loom  per  day  to  be  eight  pence  and  one  eighth,  which 
gives  four  shillings  and  three  farthings  per  week;  and 
suppose  that  one  loom  will  produce  three  pieces  of 
cloth  per  week,  the  charges  for  one  piece  will  be  one 
shilling  and  four  pence  farthing.  To  this  will  require  to 
be  added,  any  wages  that  are  not  put  down  specially 


Nl 


306  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

in  the  rating,  such  as  the  tenter's  wages,  which  is  not 
shown  in  the  form  given  for  the  rating-book. 

The  foregoing  statement  and  observations  have  been 
made  more  for  the  guidance  of  new  beginners  than 
for  those  already  in  the  trade,  for  every  manufacturer 
who  takes  the  trouble  to  look  into  his  accounts  at  the 
end   of  the  year,   soon  finds   out  what    the   oncost 
charges  are.     And  it  will  be  apparent,  that  if  the  pro- 
duction can  be  increased  from  three  pieces  per  week, 
to  four  or  five,  the  charge  upon  one  piece  will  be 
considerably  less.     And  it  may  be  remarked,  that  the 
desire  to  make  a  loom  to  produce  as  much  as  possible 
in  a  given  time,  has  been  the  great  stimulant  for  the 
many  improvements  that  have  been  made  in  power- 
looms  of  late.     "W lien  it  is  taken  into  consideration 
how  these  improvements  are  taken  advantage  of,  by 
people  putting  up  new  works,  the  reader  will  not  be 
surprised   at   the   item,   Xo.    2,   which  is  £750  per 
annum,  being  put  down  in  the  statement,  for  the  fact  is, 
that  even  5  per  cent,  does  not  compensate,  in  many 
instances,  for  the  depreciation  that  takes  place  in  the 
machinery  used  for  weaving  by  power;  and  it  would 
be  better  for  those  in  the  trade,  if  they  can  manage  it 
at  all,  to  throw  out  their  old  machinery,  and  put  in 
new  whenever   it   is   proven   that  the  new  is  better, 
either  for  quantity  or  quality;  for  if  they  do  not  they 
are  sure  to  be  cut  out  of  the  trade  by  the  parties  who 
have  got  the  improved  machinery,  as  they  are  enabled 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  307 

to  undersell  them  in  the  market,  and  have  a  profit  too. 
However,  this  will  be  shown  more  clearly  in  another 
place. 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 
BEAMERS'  TABLES. 

The  annexed  tables  are  to  show  the  quantity  of  yarn 
contained  in  any  given  web.  The  use  of  them  will  be 
apparent  to  the  beamer,  warper,  and  manufacturer,  as 
they  will  save  time  in  calculation.  The  first  column  to 
the  left  hand  side  of  each  page  are  splits.  The  figures 
in  the  second  column  represent  the  porters  contained 
in  the  number  of  splits  on  the  same  line.  The  first 
row  of  figures  on  the  top  of  the  page  are  ells;  and  the 
second  row  are  yards.  The  body  of  the  pages  shows 
the  number  of  spindles,  hanks,  and  parts  of  a  hank. 
Examples  are  given  at  the  end  of  the  tables,  how  they 
can  be  applied  by  the  warper,  beamer,  &c. 


308 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 

4 
5 

11 

22 

*S 

4 

4| 

Yards. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.   Hk. 

Sp.   Hk. 

Sp.   Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.   Hk. 

2 

i 

10 

4 

1 

6 

5 

1 

4 

10 

x 

1 

y 

1 

y 

4 

20 

l2 

* 

i 

i 

2 

y 

1 

30 

ij 

1 

7 

1 

7 

y 

t 

y 

40 

2 

l 

1 

7 

2 

y 

3 
y 

y 

50 

2* 

i 

7 

T 

5. 

3 

7 

4 

y 

y 

60 

3 

1 

7 

T 

3 

7 

4 

y 

6 

y 

b 
y 

70 

n 

1 

7 

2 

T 

T 

y 

r 

1 

80 

4" 

1 

7 

3 

y 

j4 

5 
7 

1 

H 

90 

4| 

1 
7 

3 

7 

4 

r 

1 

ly 

100 

5 

2 

3 

T 

5^ 

1 

ly 

ly 

200 

10 

3 

1 

l| 

ly 

2y 

Oi; 

300 

15 

T 

If 

21 

2| 

3t 

4f 

400 

20 

1 

If 

2y 

34i 

45 
*y 

5^5 

500 

25 

n 

2f 

34 

4 

6 

71 

600 

30 

if 

24 
"7 

4f 

5y 

71 

8j 

TOO 

35 

i6 

3f 

5 

6f 

8f 

10 

800 

40 

1  fi 

3f 

5y 

7y 

94 

Hy 

900 

45 

91 

4f 

67 

87 

lOf 

12f 

1000 

50 

24 

4f 

n 

»T 

11* 

14y 

2000 

100 

4 

9y 

14 

1       1 

1    5f 

1    104 

3000 

150 

n 

14f 

1  3^ 

1  104 

1  17i 

2    67 

4000 

200 

9* 

1     1 

1  104 

2     24 

2  114 

3    3i 

BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


309 


Ells. 


Yards. 


Splits. 

2 
4 

5 

10 

20 
30 

40 
50 
GO 

70 
80 
90 

100 
200 
300 

400 

500 
600 

700 
800 
900 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 


Porters. 


1 

n 

2 

21 
32 

5 

10 
15 

20 
25 

30 

35 
40 
45 

50 
100 
150 
200 


Sp.  Ilk. 


H 
1  = 
If 

U 

5 

6: 

10 

115 
13f 
15 

165 

1  15? 

2  14 

3  122, 


61 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 

1? 
M 
u 

5T 

7i 

91 

11 Y 

132 

17| 

1  1 

2  21 


41 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 

n 

6T 


id: 
12f 

15 

1? 

8T 

6T 
10* 

134 


10 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 
11 

M 

l: 

21 

2^ 

4: 

71 

9i 

ll'J 

14  = 

16| 

1 
84 


8t 


1  5£ 

2  114 

3  17f 

5  5* 


11 


Sp.  Hk. 


1! 
1? 

lr 


25 

Kl 


111! 

13 

155- 


54 


Sp.  Hk 


9-3 


12 


1  71 

2  16f 

4  61 

5  145 


11 

VI 

M 

2 

21 


-7 
55 


11^ 

142 
17 


2 

41 


1  lOj 

3  31 

4  134 

6  6f 


310 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 

101 

Hi 
5 

12 

1 

0  4 
-5 

132 

14| 

Yards. 

- 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

Splits. 

Porteis. 

Sp. 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp. 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk 

5p.  Hk. 

2 

i 

10 

4 

l 

i 

i 

7" 

i 

7 

l 

7 

2 

7 

1 

5 

i 

4 

i 

7 

JL 

7 

1 
7 

1 
7 

f 

i 

10 

1 

o 
7" 

3 

3 

T 

3 

7 

5. 

3. 

20 

l2 

j4 

4 

7 

5 
7 

5 

7 

A 

f: 

30 

n 

6 

1 

1 

If 

If 

11 

40 

2 

If 

If 

If 

14 

If 

14I- 

50 

21 

n 

1& 
■*-7 

If 

14 

2 

2f 

60 

3 

14 

2 

24 

-: 

24 

2f 

70 

31 

2f 

24 

24 

24 

24 

3 

80 

4 

2f 

2* 

9& 

o 

o 

3f 

34 

90 

4i 

24 

3 

34 

3f 

3f 

Sf 

100 

5 

3f 

34 

34 

3f 

4f 

42 

200 

10 

64 

6t 

74 

7f 

8 

8-i- 

300 

15 

9f 

10 

104 

llf 

1-f 

12f 

400 

20 

124 

134 

144 

154 

164 

171 

500 

25 

16f 

164 

17f 

1 

1 

1  24 

1  35 

600 

30 

1 

^ 

1  2 

1  34 

1 

44 

1  64 

1  If 

■700 

35 

1 

3f 

1  54 

1  7 

1 

8f 

1  104 

1  12 

800 

40 

1 

64 

1  84 

1  104 

1 

124 

1  144 

1  16f 

9CO 

45 

1 

9i 

1  12 

1  14  4 

1 

164 

2   f 

2  24 

1000 

50 

1 

13 

1  154 

1  17f 

2 

21 

^7 

2  44 

2  64 

2000 

100 

3 

7e 

3  124 

3  17f 

4 

2f 

4  84 

4  135 

3000 

150 

5 

24 

5  10 

5  174 

6 

64 

6  134 

7  24 

4000 

200 

6 

154 

7  74 

7  164 

8 

84 

8  17f 

9  94 

BEAMEES'  TABLES. 


311 


Ells. 

15J 

16 

16| 

1T| 

18* 

195 

Yards. 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 
5 

i 

10 

l 

l 

_2 

Y 

l 

7 
2l 

7 

l 
7 

Y 

i 

T 

7 

i 

7 

Y 

l 

7 
2 
Y 

10 
20 

1 
1 

a 

7 

e 

'i 

a 
l7 

a 

7 
1 

4 
7 

1* 

4 

Y 

If 

4 

7^ 

11 

30 

1| 

1? 

1? 

15 

■*7 

1* 

It 

1? 

40 

o 

If 

M 

2 

2* 

2| 

24 

50 

h 

2y 

25 

24 

2'? 

2f 

24 

60 

3 

2f 

or. 

3 

3f 

3? 

34 

70 

3±- 

3f 

3? 

34 

4 

34 

4 

80 

4" 

3| 

3f 

4 

*» 

45 

4| 

90 

H 

4 

4f 

44 

44 

45 

5T 

100 

5 

4f 

44 

5 

s? 

55 

54 

200 

10 

9 

9t 

10 

10-| 

11 

115 

300 

15 

134 

14? 

15 

154 

lGv- 

174 

400 

20 

1    Y 

1  1 

1  2 

1  3 

I 

35 

1  45 

500 

25 

1  44 

1  55 

1  7 

1  84 

1 

94 

1  104 

600 

30 

1  94 

1  lot 

1  12 

1  13  J 

1 

145 

1  164 

700 

35 

1  13: 

1  154 

1  17 

■"    Y 

2 

2t 

2  4 

800 

40 

2   i 

2  2| 

2  4 

2  5f 

2 

T, 

2  94 

900 

45 

2  45 

2  05 

2  9 

2  Hi 

2 

134 

2  155 

1000 

50 

2  94 

2  3 1  + 

2  14 

2  10? 

o 
O 

~*f 

3  34 

2000 

100 

5   f 

5  55 

5  10 

5  144 

G 

M- 

6  C? 

3000 

150 

7  94 

7  10 « 

8  6 

8  1  Si- 

9 

24 

9  95 

4000 

200 

10  1 

10  10J 

11  2 

ll  114 

112 

3 

12  124 

312 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 


Yards. 


Splits. 

2 
4 
5 

10 
20 
30 

40 
50 
60 

70 
80 
90 

100 
200 
300 

400 
500 
600 

700 
800 
900 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 


20 


25 


Porters.  Sp.  Hk. 


1 
1* 

2 
3 

4 

4| 

5 
10 
15 

20 
25 
30 

35 
40 
45 

50 
100 
150 
200 


11 
If 

2f 

3 

34 

4i 
44 
54 

6 
12 
174 

1  54 
1  114 

1  17+ 

2  54 
2  llf 

2  174 

3  54 
6  10 
9  164 

13  4-1 


20* 


26 


Sp.  Hk. 


11 

A7 
1^ 

93 

31 
Bf 

44 
5 

5|- 

61 
124 


1  64 

1  13 

2  If 

2  7f 

2  134 

3  If 

3  74 

6  154 

10  54 

13  134 


212 


27 


22? 


28 


Sp.  Hk. 


li 

x7 
If 

24 
8* 
34 

44 

6f 

54 

°7 

6* 

124 

1  If 

1  74 

1  144 

2  2i 

2  9 

2  154 

3  4f 

3  10? 

7  2i 
10  124 
14  51 


Sp.  Hk. 


13 

XT 

2 

24 

3f 
4 

44 
54 
6 

64 

"7 

134 

1  2 

1  84 

1  15  f 

2  4 

2  104 

2  174 

3  6 

3  124 

7  74 
11  2 
14  144 


231 


29 


Sp.  Hk. 


11 

A7 

2 

2f 
34 

41 

44 
5f 
6* 

64 

13  a 
1  24 

1  94 

1  164 

2  54 

2  12f 

3  If 
3  84 


15 
11+ 

H 


BEAMEKS'  TABLES. 


313 


Ells. 

24* 

253 

26| 

27J 

28 

28| 

Yards. 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Ilk 

3p.  Hk. 

2 

i 

10 

4 

T 

2 

7 

o 
T 

2 

T 

2 

"7 

■2 

5 

i 

4 

2 
7 

2 

T 

2 
7 

2 

'7 

■A 

-7 

3 

10 

i 
a 

5 

7 

5 
T 

5 
7 

6 
T 

"7 

8 

7 

20 

1 

If 

1  4 
x~r 

3? 

If 

If 

M 

30 

H 

2i 

22- 

2f 

m 

2 -J 

21 

40 

2 

3 

3 

3| 

0  = 

3f 

3:i 

50 

2J 

3? 

3f 

3f- 

4' 

11 

4  5 

60 

3 

4f 

4* 

i;' 

*f 

5 

51 

70 

31 

54 

5t 

53, 

5* 

5f 

6 

80 

4" 

55- 

61- 

6? 

6f 

6f 

6i; 

90 

n 

6* 

6f 

7 

"? 

Tv; 

7-6 

100 

5 

7a 

'  7 

Ti 

7e 

84 

8» 

81 

200 

10 

14^ 

16f 

15? 

164    16? 

17! 

300 

15 

1  44 

1  44 

1  54 

1  65 

1  7 

1  7? 

400 

20 

1  lOf 

l  12  a 

1  134 

1  144 

1  15?- 

1  105 

500 

25 

2   f 

■2     oi 

_i  *.7 

2  34 

2  4 

2  5-? 

2  6'-; 

600 

30 

2  85 

2  9f 

2  11* 

2  121 

2  14 

2  15V 

700 

35 

2  15  4 

2  17  = 

3  1 

3  - ' 

3  4? 

3  6 

800 

40 

3  5 

3  7 

3  84 

3  10  i 

3  12$ 

3  141 

9CO 

45 

3  121 

3  14i 

3  16$ 

4   f 

4  3 

4  5: 

1000 

50 

4  If 

4  41 

4  64 

4  9 

4  11? 

4  13-' 

2000 

100 

8  3-| 

8  84 

8  134 

8  17  V 

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5 

114 

5 

12f 

5 

13f 

5 

14* 

5  16 

5  174 

600 

30 

6 

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6 

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6 

16? 

6 

17* 

7  11 

7  24 

700 

35 

7 

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7 

17f 

8 

1 

8 

24 

8  4? 

8  6 

800 

40 

8 

17| 

9 

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9 

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9 

5* 

9  74 

9  93 

900 

45 

10 

27 

10 

4| 

10 

6?- 

10 

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10  10* 

10  12* 

1000 

50 

11 

4?- 

11 

6? 

11 

97 

11 

113 

11  13* 

11  16? 

2000 

100 

22 

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22 

13f- 

23 

2 

7 

23 

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23  9* 

23  144 

3000 

150 

33 

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34 

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34 

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35  5* 

35  12* 

4000 

200 

14 

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45 

9 

46 

4 
7 

46 

10 

47  14 

47  114 

REAMERS'  TABLES. 


323 


Ells. 


Yards. 


Splits. 

2 
4 
5 

10 
20 

30 

40 
50 
60 

70 
80 
90 

100 

200 
300 

400 
500 
600 

700 
800 
9CO 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 


721 


73- 


91 


Porters.  Sp.  Hk. 


1 

n 

2 

2i 

3 

3§ 

4 
4| 

5 

10 
15 

20 
25 
30 

35 
40 
45 

50 
100 
150 
200 


92 


2| 

4f 
6* 

8f 
104 
13 

15| 

17?- 

1  If 

1  3f 

2  7f 

3  11 

4  14f 

6  f 

7  4 

8  7f 

9  llf 
10  15 

12  f 

24  l| 

36  2 

48  24 


Sp.  Hk. 


2* 

4?- 
6J 


11 
13* 

1  of 
171 

1  If 

1  3f 

2  74 

3  114 

4  15$ 

6  If 

7  6$ 

8  9? 

9  134 
10  17  \ 

12  3 
24  61 
36  9| 

48  12} 


741 


93 


751 


76 


94 


Sp.  Hk. 


T 

1+ 


21 
44 

04 


11 

13? 

15? 

174 
1  If 

1  44 

2  84 

3  124 

4  16f 

6  24 

7  64 

8  11 

9  154 


Sp.  Hk. 


H 

2? 
44 
6f 

9 
114 

13* 

15? 

17f 
1  2f 

1  44 

2  8? 

3  I3f 

4  17| 

6  3? 

7  84 

5  124 
9  17 


11  1?  11  3? 


95 


76* 


96 


12  54 

24  10*; 

36  1(5? 

49  34 


12  7? 
24  151 
37  54 
49  13?  ,50  44 


Sp.  Hk 


11 

2? 
41 

9 
114 
131 

154 

1   1 
1  24 

1  41 

2  94 

3  131 

5  ? 

6  51 

7  91 

8  144 

10  1 

11  54 

12  101 

25  24 
37  124 


Sp.  Hk 


2? 
6'J 

11? 

13? 

16 
1   f 
1  21 

1  44 

2  91 

3  144 

5  13 

6  64 

7  111 

8  16 

10  24 

11  71 

12  124 

25  7] 
38  If 
50  14  f 


324 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 


Yards. 


Splits. 

2 
4 
5 

10 
20 
30 

40 
50 
60 

70 
80 
90 

100 
200 
300 

400 
500 
600 

700 
800 
900 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 


i  i 


97 


Porters.  Sp.  Hk. 


1 

2 
2* 


d* 


41 


b 

10 
15 

20 
25 
30 

35 
40 
45 

50 
100 
150 
200 


c 

n 

2? 

4f- 
6f 

9? 

13| 

161- 

1   f 

1  24 

1  51- 

x   .j7 

2  lO-i 

3  15? 

5  2?- 

6  7f 

7  12  i 

8  17f 

10  45 

11  9| 

12  15 
25  llf 

38  8f 
51  54 


7S; 


98 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 

H 

2?- 
7 


791 


9? 

llf 

14 

16? 

1 

A 

1 

3 

1 

5? 

2 

104 

3 

16 

5 

33 

6 

84 

7 

14 

9 

1? 

10 

6f- 

11 

12 

12 

17? 

25 

164 

38 

16 

51 

15?- 

80 


80* 


99 


100 


101 


Sp.  Hk. 

1 
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02 

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1  5* 

2  11 1- 

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5  4? 

6  9? 

7  152- 

9  3 

10  8f 

11  141 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 
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4? 

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14? 

16?- 
1  1 


1  5f 

2  llf 

3  174 

5  5? 

6  11 

7  164 

9  44 

10  104 

11  16? 


13  If  13  4i 

26  34  26  81 

39  5f  39  12? 

52  64  52  164 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 
lf 

25- 

44 
74- 


12 
14f 

16? 
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1  3-f- 

1  6 

2  12 

4  \ 

5  64 

6  124 


9  6? 
10  12? 

12  4 

13  64 
26  124 
40  14 
53  74 


BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


325 


Ells. 


82?. 


Yards. 


Splits. 

2 
4 
5 

10 
20 
30 

40 
50 
60 

70 

90 

100 
200 
300 

400 
500 
600 

TOO 
800 
9CO 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 


Porteis. 


1 

n 

2 

2£ 

3 

31 
4" 
4i 

5 
10 
15 

20 
25 
30 

35 
40 
45 

50 
100 
150 

200 


103 


Sp.  Hk. 


1 

n 

22- 

^7 

121 
14$ 

in 
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1  4 

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2  13 

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5  81- 

6  Ui 

8  31 

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10  161 

12  4} 

13  11? 

27  42 
40  15A 
54  9 


DO  1 


104 


Sp.  Hk. 

1 

If 

2* 

4?- 
7? 

10 

12? 

14$ 

175- 

1  II 

1  4? 

1  6? 

2  132 

4  2? 

5  9 

6  15?- 

8  4+ 

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10  18 
12  67 


84 


105 


13  13 t  13  16 

27  9i  27  14 


Sp.  Ilk. 
1 

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5 

if 

10 

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15 

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1  7 

2  14 

4  3 

5  10 
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8  6 

9  13 

11  2 

12  9 


41  4£ 


41  12 
55  10 


84* 


106 


85?. 


107 


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1 
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5 

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101 
121 

m 

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1  2i 

1  4? 

1  7? 

2  142- 

4  3? 

5  11 

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9  14? 

11  3t 

12  111 


1  L 
28 

12 

56 


Sp.  Ilk 

1 

If 

2| 
5 

74 

'  7 

10? 
120 
15? 

17  7 
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1  4?- 

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4  42 

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108 


lp.  Ilk. 


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1? 

2| 
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7-: 
10; 

12! 

152 

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1  21 

1  51 

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2  15-: 

4  5i 

5  125 

7  27 

8  10? 


9  10?  10  O 
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14  24 
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12  15$ 

14  51 

28  10? 
42  12-} 
57  21 


326 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 


Yards. 


Splits. 

2 
4 
5 

10 
20 
30 

40 
50 
60 

70 
80 
90 

100 
200 
300 

400 
500 
600 

700 

800 
900 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 


Porters. 


1 

2 
1 

1* 


21 


4 
41 


87; 


109 


Sp.  Hk. 


n 

5i 

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104 
124 

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110 


Sp.  Hk. 


H 
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2f 

5* 

7^ 

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13 

154 


5 
10 
15 

20 
25 
30 

35 
40 
45 

50 
100 
150 
200 


2^ 
52- 


1  8 

2  15| 

4  5|- 

5  13f 

7  34 

8  llf 

10  If 

11  94 

12  17| 

14  7* 
28  15 
43  4f 
57  32i 


24 

5i 


1  84 

2  16f 

4  64 

5  14| 

7  4f 

8  13f 

10  3f 

11  llf 
13  U 


14 

29 


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43  llf 

58  34  58  13} 


881 


111 


Sp.  Hk. 


1* 

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2f- 
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104 
13| 

154 


3 

54 


1  84 

2  164 

4  7f 

5  15f 

7  6 

8  144 

10  5 

11  13f 

13  34 

14  12f 
29  64 

44   4 


892 


112 


901 


113 


114 


Sp.  Hk. 


17 
If 


54 


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13f 
16 

1   & 

A   7 

1  34 

1  6 

1  84 

2  17? 

4  8 

5  164 

7  74 

8  16 

10  6f 

11  15f 

13  6 

14  144 
29  llf 

44  8 
59  44 


Sp.  Hk. 


14 


24 
5f 


104 
134 
164 


T 
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6* 


Sp.  Hk. 

V 
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24, 
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11 

1341 

161 


1  8f 

2  174 

4  84 

5  174 

7  84 

8  17^ 

10  8-f 

11  174 

13  81 

14  17 

29  16 
44  15f 
59  144 


T 
34 

64 


7 
94 


6  1 

7  9 
9  i 

10  10 

12  4 

13  lOf 

15  li 

30  24 

45  44 

60  bi 


BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


Ells. 

92 

92f 

933 

94§ 

95^ 

96 

Yards. 

115 

116 

117 

118 

119 

120 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk, 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 

5 

i 

10 

l 

5 
JL 

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1} 
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1* 

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1-f 
1* 

11 
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14 

n 

10 
20 
30 

1 

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1 

2* 

5* 
81 

5f 

8£ 

2* 
Bf 

2* 
5* 
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2* 
6f 
8f 

25 
5? 

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40 

50 
60 

2 
3 

11 
13* 

16f 

11 

139 

16* 

11| 
13* 
16  f 

114 

14 
I6f 

11* 

14 

17 

11| 

143 
171 

70 
80 
90 

8* 

4 
41 

1  H 

1  3* 

1  6* 

1 
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1  2 

4 

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1  If 

1  4| 

1  7 

1  1* 
1  4? 

1  7* 

1  1* 

1  n 

1  77- 

1  2 

1  45 

1  7* 

100 
200 
300 

5 
10 
15 

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3  f 

4  104 

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1  9* 

3  1* 

4  11* 

1  10 

3  21 

4  12  f 

1  10?- 

3  2* 

4  13 

1  10i 

3  34 

4  13$ 

400 
500 
600 

20 
25 

30 

6  If 

7  10f 
9  2f 

6 

7 
9 

12 

6  3f 

7  13| 
9  5* 

6  4* 

7  14| 

9  6* 

6  5? 

7  15* 
9  8 

0  6? 
7  16$ 
9  9? 

700 
800 
900 

35 
40 
45 

10  11* 

12  3 

13  12f 

10 
12 
13 

13?  j 

4^ 

14* 

10  15 

12  6* 

13  16* 

10  16f 
12  8* 
14   * 

11  ? 

12  10  i 
14  3 

11  2 

12  12| 
14  44 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 

50 
100 
150 
200 

15  3* 
30  7* 
45  11A 
60  154 

15 

SO 

46 
01 

64 
12? 

6f 

15  8* 
30  17 

40  7; 
61  16f 

15  10£ 
31  3* 
46  14* 

62  7-^ 

15  13* 
31  8f 
47  4 
62  I7f 

15  174 

31  13* 
47  94 
63  8* 

328 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 

96| 

973 

981 

99J 

100 

100* 

Yards. 

121 

122 

123 

124 

125 

126 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 

5 

i 

10 

l 

5 
1 

4 

H 

if 

if 

1* 

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if 

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10 
20 
30 

1 
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54 
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24 
5f 
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24 
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3 
6 

84 

3 
6 
9 

40 
50 
60 

2 
2J 

3" 

llf 

143- 

17? 

lit 
144 

17f 

114 
144 
174 

llf 

145- 
17| 

llf 

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174 

12 

15 

1  0 

70 
80 
90 

3£ 

4 
41 

1  2| 
1  5 
1  7| 

1  2f 

1  5i 
1  8f 

1  2f 
1  5f 

1  8f- 

1  2f 
1  5? 
1  84 

1  3 

1  54 

1  84 

1  3 
1  6 
1  9 

100 

200 
300 

5 

10 
15 

1  104 

3  34 

4  I4f 

1  11 

3  4 

4  15| 

1  11| 

3  44 

4  15| 

1  llf 

3  5 

4  164 

1  114 

3  5f 

4  17f 

1  12 
3  6 
5  0 

400 
500 
600 

20 
25 
30 

6  7-f 

8  0 

9  lOf 

6  8i 

8  li 

9  12f 

6  9f 

8  23- 

9  13  f- 

6  10 

8  34 

9  1  Si- 

6 11 

8  44 

9  164 

6  12 

8  6 
10  0 

700 

800 
900 

35 
40 
45 

U  34 
12  144 
14  7f 

11  5f- 

12  16f 
14  9f 

11  7 

13  f- 

14  11  f 

ll  84 

13  24 

14  134 

11  10? 

13  4 

14  154 

11  12 
13  6 
15  0 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 

50 
100 
150 
200 

16  0 

32  U 
48   | 
64   f 

16  24 
32  44 

is  n 

64  9f 

16  4f 
32  94 
48  I4f 

85  lf 

16  7| 
32  144 
49  34 
65  104 

16  94 
33  14 
49  104 

S6  24 

16  12 

33  6 
50  0 
S6  12 

BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


329 


Ells. 

lOlf 

102f 

103J 

104 

104* 

1052 

Yards. 

127 

128 

129 

130 

131 

132 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 
5 

i 

10 

I 

i 

4 

If 

1  2 

1T 

If 
If 

14 

1  * 

1  2 
If 

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10 
20 
30 

1 
2 

1 

3 

6 
9 

3 

64 

3 

6| 

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34 

6f 

94 

34 

9J 

34 

6? 

40 
50 
60 

3 

12 

15* 

1   4 

1 

12| 

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2 

T 

124 

15? 

1   3 

1    T 

124 
154 

1   * 

1       7 

124 
154 

1     5 

1    T 

124 

155 
1   f 

70 
SO 
90 

H 

4 

41 

2 

1  3+ 

1  64 
1  94 

1 
1 
1 

34 
64 
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1  34 

1  6f 

1  94 

1  34 
1  6f 
1  94 

1  34 
1  6f 
1  10 

1  4 

1  7T 
1  104 

100 

200 
300 

5 
10 
15 

1  124 
3  64 
5   * 

1 

3 
5 

124 
64 
1^ 

1  124 
3  74 

5  24 

1  13 

3  74 
5  24 

1  134 
3  84 
5  34 

1  134 

3  84 
5  4| 

400 
500 
600 

20 
25 
30 

6  13 

8  71 
10  14 

6 

8 

10 

13| 

84 
24 

6  144 

8  9^ 

10  44 

6  154 

8  104 

10  54 

6  164 

8  114 

10  74 

6  174 

8  134 

10  8* 

700 
800 
9CO 

35 
40 
45 

11  134 
13  7f 
15  24 

11 

13 

15 

154 

94| 
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11  17 
13  114 
15  64 

12  4 

13  13* 

15  84 

12  24 

13  154 
15  104 

12  4 

13  174 
15  124 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 

50 
100 
150 
200 

16  14?- 
33  104 
50  11| 
67  34 

16 
33 
50 

67 

164 
154 
144 
13 

17  lj 
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51  3? 
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17  34 
34  7 
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68  144 

17  54 
34  114 

51  174 

69  54 

17  8f 
34  16* 
52  64 
69  154 

Ql 


330 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 

106J 

107J 

108 

108f 

109i 

1101 

Yards. 

133 

134 

135 

136 

137 

138 

Splits, 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 
5 

i 

10 

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11 

10 
20 
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3? 
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3f 
9$ 

40 
50 
60 

2 
3 

12f 
15f 
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12f 

15$ 

1  1* 

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16 
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13 
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1  If 

70 
80 
90 

4 

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1  7f 
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1  4? 

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1  7$ 
1  10$ 

1  4f 
1  7$ 
1  llf 

1  4f 
1  8 
1  llf 

1  5 
1  8f 
1  llf 

100 
200 
300 

5 
10 
15 

1  13f 
3  9f 
5  5 

1  13$ 
3  9| 

5  5f 

1  14f 

3  lOf 
5  6$ 

1  14$ 

3  10$ 
5  7$ 

1  14$ 
3  11| 

5  7f 

1  14f 
3  llf 

5  8$ 

400 
500 
600 

20 
25 

30 

7  f 

8  14f 
10  10 

7  If 

8  15$ 
10  llf 

7  2$ 

8  16$ 
10  12$ 

7  3$ 

8  17f 
10  l4f 

7  4f 

9  1 

10  I5f 

7  5f 

9  2f 

10  17| 

700 

800 
900 

35 
40 
45 

12  5f 

14  If 

15  14 

12  7$ 

14  3f 

15  17* 

12  9 
14  5f 
16  If 

12  lOf 
14  7 
16  3f 

12  12f 
14  8f 
16  5$ 

12  14 

14  lOf 
16  7f 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 

50 
100 
150 
200 

17  lOf 
35  3f 
52  14 

70  6f 

17  13 
35  8 
53  3f 
70  16f 

17  15f 
35  12$ 
53  10$ 
71  7$ 

17  17f 
35  17$ 
53  17f 
71  17f 

18  2$ 
36  4f 
54  6$ 

72  8f 

18  4f 
36  9| 
54  13f 
73   f 

BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


331 


Ells. 

HIS 

112 

112* 

113g 

1142 

115J 

Yards. 

139 

140 

141 

142 

143 

144 

Splits. 

Porters. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk, 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 
5 

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333 


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151 

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20 
30 

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70 
80 
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BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


335 


Ells. 

1301 

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132 

182* 

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168 

164 

165 

166 

167 

168 

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20 
30 

40 
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80 
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100 
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175 

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177 

178 

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50 
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MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


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144* 

1453 

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148 

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181 

182 

183 

184 

185 

186 

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400 
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20 
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700 
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1000 
2000 
3000 
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50 
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150 
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BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


339 


Ells. 

1493 

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1511 

152 

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1533 

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187 

188 

189 

190 

191 

192 

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24 

10 
20 
30 

1 

a 
1 

ii 

4$ 

8f 

13? 

4f 

9 

134 

44 

9 

134 

4f 

9 

13| 

44 

9 

134 

44 

94 

134 

40 
50 
60 

2 

2* 

3 

17e 

A'  7 

1  4? 

1  8f 

174 

1  4? 

1  84 

1 
1 
1 

0 

43 

9 

1   f 
1  44 
1  W, 

1   2 

1   4f 
1   94 

1   I 
1  44 
1  94 

70 
80 
90 

4 
4i 

1  13j 

1  17| 

2  4 

113f 
1174 

2  4f 

1 
2 
2 

134 
0 

43 
^7 

1  134 

2  4 
2  44 

1  134 

2  4 
2  44 

1  14 

2  4 
2  54 

100 
200 
300 

5 

10 
15 

2  8f 
4  17 

7  74 

2  8| 
4  173 
7  8? 

2 
5 

7 

9 
0 
9 

2  94 
5   3 
7  94 

2  93 
5   4 
7  104 

2  94 
5  14 
7  114 

400 
500 
600 

20 
25 
30 

9  16 
12  64 
14  15! 

9  17 

12  7f 
14  16| 

10 

12 
15 

0 
9 
0 

10  1 
12  104 
15  If 

10   14 

12  114 

15  24 

10   24 

12  124 
15  44 

700 
800 
900 

35 
40 
45 

17  5| 
19  144 
22  4£ 

17  74 
19  16 
22  64 

17 
20 
22 

9 

0 

8* 

17  lOf 
20  1$ 
22  114 

17  124 
20  84 
22  134 

17  14 
20  54 
22  15? 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 

50 
100 
150 
200 

24  131 
49  83- 
74  34 
98  164 

24  154 
49  13| 

74  104 
99  84 

25 

50 

75 

100 

0 
0 
0 
0 

25  24 
50  4f 

75  74 

100   94 

25  44 
50  94 
75  14? 
101  1 

25  74 
50  14? 
76  33 

101  104 

340 


MANUFACTURERS',  WARPERS',  AND 


Ells. 

1541 

1551 

156 

156* 

157| 

1581 

Yards. 

193 

194 

195 

196 

197 

198 

Splits. 

Porters 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp. 

Hk. 

Sp. 

Hk. 

Sp. 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 

i 

10 

l 

If 

1* 

1£ 

x7 

n 

H 

2 

5 

l 

2? 

2? 

2f 

n 

2f 

2f 

10 

1 
2 

4f 

M 

4f 

4f 

4f 

4f 

20 

l 

9* 

9f 

9? 

9f 

9f 

9? 

30 

H 

18* 

13f 

13f 

14 

14 

14^ 

40 

2 

1   3 

A     7 

1   4 

1 

4 

T 

1 

5 

7 

1 

e 

T 

1   1 

50 

2J 

l  44 

1  5i 

1 

5* 

1 

5? 

l 

5f 

1  5f 

60 

3 

1  9| 

1  9? 

1 

n 

1 

10 

1 

10i 

1  lOf 

70 

H 

1  14i 

1  14f 

1 

14f 

1 

14  « 

l 

14f 

1  15 

80 

4 

2   f 

2  1 

2 

H 

2 

1^ 

A7 

2 

1* 

2  If 

90 

4| 

2  5f 

2  5| 

2 

5f 

2 

6 

2 

6* 

2  6f 

100 

5 

2  10 

2  lOf 

2 

lOf 

2 

lOf 

2 

11 

2  11+ 

200 

10 

5  If 

5  2f 

5 

2f 

5 

3f 

5 

8f 

5  4f 

300 

15 

7  11f 

7  12i 

7 

13? 

7 

14 

7 

I4f 

7  15f 

400 

20 

10  3f 

10  if 

10 

5f 

10 

6| 

10 

•75 
'  7 

10  8± 

500 

25 

12  13f 

12  15 

12 

16i 

12 

I7f 

13 

4 

T 

13  If 

600 

30 

15  5f 

15  7i 

15 

8f 

15 

10 

15 

11* 

15  I2f 

700 

35 

17  15f 

17  17  f 

18 

1 

18 

2f 

18 

4$ 

18  6 

800 

40 

20  7f 

20  9$ 

20 

llf 

20 

IB? 

20 

15? 

20  171 

900 

45 

22  7* 

23  If 

23 

3f 

23 

6 

23 

8* 

23  10? 

1000 

50 

25  9f 

25  11 

25 

14? 

25 

16f 

26 

H 

26  3f 

2000 

100 

51  1 

51  6| 

51 

10  f 

51 

14f 

52 

24 

52  6f 

3000 

150 

76  lOf 

76  I7f 

77 

6f 

77 

14 

78 

H 

78  10? 

4000 

200 

102  2i 

102  llf 

103 

3| 

103 

12f 

101 

4f 

104  13* 

BEAMERS'  TABLES. 


341 


Ella. 

359J 

160 

160* 

161g 

162^ 

103J 

Yards. 

199 

200 

201 

202 

203 

204 

Splits. 

Porters 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp.  Hk. 

Sp. 

Hk. 

Sp.  Hk 

Sp.  Hk. 

2 
4 
5 

i 

10 

l 

5 
1 

4 

2 

2f 

2 

2* 

2 

2f 

2 

2f 

2 

24 

2 

24 

10 

20 
30 

1 
2 

1 

1J 

4f 
141 

4f 

9| 

14? 

44 

94 

14f 

44 

94 

144 

4f 

94 
14? 

5 

94 
14* 

40 
50 
60 

2 
3 

1  1 
1  5f 
1  10? 

1  11 
1  54 
1  10*- 

1  1? 
1  6 

l  104 

1 

1 
1 

If 

61 
lOf 

1  1? 
1  61 
1  11 

1  14 

1  6? 
1  111 

70 
80 
90 

31 

4 
4£ 

1  15* 

2  If 
2  6*- 

1  15f 

2  2} 
2  6f 

1  154 

2  2? 

2  7 

1 

2 

2 

15? 
2i 

1  154 

2  24 
2  74 

1  I64 

2  24 
2  74 

100 
200 
300 

5 
10 
15 

2  114 
5  4f 

7  10} 

2  114 
5  5? 
7  16f 

2  12 

5  5? 

7  174 

2 
5 
8 

121 

6? 
2 
7 

2  123 
5  G^ 

8  1 

2  124 
5  74 
8  14 

400 
500 
600 

20 
25 
30 

10  9* 
13  2f 

15  I4f 

10  10-i 
13  4i 
15  154 

10  114 

13  5f 
15  17f 

10 
13 
10 

12? 

6? 
4 

7 

10  134 

13  74 
16  2 

10  144 

13  84 

16  3? 

TOO 
800 
900 

35 
40 
45 

18  7f 
21  1 
23  125 

18  9? 
21  3 
23  14i 

18  lli 
21  44 
23  104 

18 
21 
24 

125 

64 

6 
7 

18  144 
21  8i 
24  3' 

18  101 
21  41 
24  5} 

1000 
2000 
3000 
4000 

50 
100 
150 
200 

20  5$ 
52  lli 

78  17i 
105  5f 

20  8f 

52  167 

79  6i 
105  14f 

26  104 

53  31 

79  134 

106  64 

26 

53 

80 

106 

13 

7? 

24 
15, 

26  15? 
53  124 
80  10 

107  7? 

26  174 
53  I54 
80  m 
107  17 

342  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE  OF 

When  the  manufacturer  wishes  to  find,  from  the 
foregoing  tables,  the  quantity  of  warp  in  a  given  piece 
of  cloth,  it  can  be  done  in  the  following  manner : 
— Suppose  the  piece  80  yards  long,  and  containing 
2000  splits,  the  quantity  of  spyndles  will  be  found 
opposite  2000  splits,  and  under  80  yards  at  page  321, 
to  be  21  spyndles,  3  hanks,  or  in  all,  381  hanks  (as 
shown  in  another  table).  This  381  is  divided  by  the 
size  of  the  yarn,  say  No,  36  to  find  the  weight. 

EXAMPLE. 

36)381(10  lbs.  9|  oz. 
36 

21 
16 

126 

21  ;  3 

336 
324 

12 

36 
This  shows  the  weight  of  the  warp  to  be  10  lbs.  9  J 
oz.  To  this  weight  the  allowances  will  require  to  be 
added,  which  is  thought  proper  for  shrinkage,  waste, 
&c,  as  these  tables  are  all  made  out  nett,  taking  the 
hank  as  840  yards,  and  18  hanks  to  the  spyndle.  Our 
reason  for  not  making  allowance  for  waste,  &c,  in  the 
tables,  is  (as  stated  before)  because  no  given  amount 
could  be  fixed  upon  with  any  degree  of  accuracy,  it  alto- 
gether depending  upon  the  quality  of  the  yarn,  and 


THE  ART  OF  WEAVING.  343 

the  kind  of  cloth  to  be  woven,  what  the  allowance 
should  be. 

The  quantity  of  weft  can  also  be  found  from  the 
tables.  After  the  warp  is  ascertained,  the  weft  will 
be  the  same  quantity  as  the  warp,  if  the  number  of 
shots  seen  by  the  glass  be  the  same  as  the  number  of 
warp-threads  seen,  or  what  is  called  in  the  trade,  even 
and  even.  Suppose  the  web  to  be  a  1400,  with  14 
shots,  and  the  quantity  of  warp  to  be  56  spyndles,  the 
quantity  of  weft  will  be  the  same.  If  the  shots  be 
more  or  less  than  fourteen,  the  number  of  spyndles  will 
be  in  proportion,  more  or  less;  for  instance,  if  there  be 
13  shots,  then  there  will  be  one  fourteenth  less,  or  52 
spyndles;  if  15  shots,  one  fourteenth  more,  or  60 
spyndles;  and  so  on  for  any  other  number  of  shots. 

When  the  warper  or  beamer  wishes  to  know  the 
quantity  of  spyndles,  or  number  of  lbs.,  they  can  find 
them  in  the  same  manner  as  shown  for  the  manufac- 
turer; but  in  general,  the  number  of  yards  put  on  the 
beams  by  the  warpers  and  beamers  are  greater  than 
what  is  given  in  these  tables;  however,  it  is  easy  to 
get  any  number  that  may  be  desired.  For  example, 
if  the  beam  contains  4000  yards,  multiply  the  200 
yards  by  10,  or  add  a  cipher  to  the  quantity  of 
spyndles  found  under  200  yards,  and  that  will  be  the 
number  of  spyndles  for  4000  yards. 

It  has  been  shown  how  the  number  of  lbs.  can  be 
found  when  the  spyndles  are  known ;  and  if  the  weaver, 


344  EATING  TABLES. 

who  buys  his  yarn  from  the  spinner  in  chains,  wishes 
to  ascertain  if  he  has  got  the  size  ordered,  all  he  has  to 
do  is  to  look  up  the  length  and  number  of  splits  in  the 
table  that  are  contained  in  the  chain,  and  the  spyndles 
will  be  seen.  An  example  for  this  is  given  at  page 
35,  under  "Yarn  in  Chain." 

To  find  the  number  of  ends  or  splits  in  any  given 
web,  a  table  has  already  been  published,  which  shows 
them  at  a  glance,  and  it  can  be  had  on  application  from 
the  Publisher  of  this  Work. 


RATING  TABLES. 
The  annexed  tables  have  been  made  out  principally 
for  the  use  of  manufacturers  in  rating  goods.  They 
will  save  time,  as  the  number  of  hanks  can  be  found  for 
any  number  of  splits  for  dents)  without  calculation. 
They  have  been  made  out  for  100  yards,  and  no  allowance 
is  made  for  waste  or  shrinkage ;  for,  as  stated  before, 
this  allowance  must  altogether  depend  upon  circum- 
stances. If  these  tables  had  been  made  out  to  answer 
all  the  different  lengths  of  cloth  that  are  woven,  they 
would  have  taken  up  far  too  much  space,  therefore 
100  yards  have  been  fixed  upon  as  the  most  suitable 
number.  The  hanks  are  shown  on  a  line  with  the 
splits.  By  dividing  the  hanks  by  the  size  of  the  yarn, 
the  manufacturer  will  find  the  yarn  required  in  lbs. 
Suppose  we  take  the  number  1500  splits,  opposite  it  is 
357  hanks. 


RATING  TABLES. 


345 


Split, 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

1 

.83 

115 

27 

2.66 

270 

64 

2.  0 

1 

1.66 

120 

28 

4.  0 

275 

65 

3.33 

2 

3.33 

125 

29 

5.33 

280 

66 

4.66 

3 

5.  0 

130 

30 

6.66 

285 

67 

6.  0 

4 

6.66 

135 

32 

1.  0 

290 

69 

0.33 

5 

1 

1.33 

140 

| 

33 

2.33 

295 

70 

1.66 

6 

1 

3.  0 

145 

34 

3.66 

300 

71 

3.  0 

7 

1 

4.66 

1  150 

35 

5.  0 

305 

72 

4.33 

8 

I 

6.33 

155 

36 

6.33 

310 

73 

5.66 

9 

2 

1.  0 

160 

38 

.66 

315 

75 

10 

2 

2.66 

165 

39 

2.  0 

320 

76 

1.33 

15 

3 

4.  0 

170 

40 

3.33 

325 

77 

2.66 

20 

4 

5.33 

175 

41 

4.66 

330 

78 

4.  0 

.  25 

5 

6.66 

180 

42 

6.  0 

335 

79 

5.33 

30 

7 

1.  0 

185 

44 

.33 

340 

80 

6.66 

85 

8 

2.33 

190 

45 

1.66 

345 

82 

1.  0 

40 

9 

3.66 

195 

46 

3.  0 

350 

83  i 

2.33 

45 

10 

5.  0 

200 

47 

4.33 

355 

84 

3.66 

50 

11 

6.33 

205 

48 

5.66 

360 

85 

5.  0 

55 

13 

.66 

210 

50 

365 

86 

6.33 

60 

14 

2.  0 

215 

51 

1.33 

370 

88 

0.66 

65 

15 

3.33 

220 

52 

2.66 

375 

89 

2.  0 

70 

16 

4.66 

225 

53 

4.  0 

380 

90 

3.33 

75 

17 

6.  0 

230 

54 

5.33 

385 

91 

4.66 

80 

19 

.33 

235 

55 

6.66 

390 

92 

6.  0 

85 

20 

1.66 

240 

57 

1.  0 

395 

94 

0.33 

90 

21 

3.  0 

245 

58 

2.33 

400 

95 

1.66 

95 

22 

4.33 

250 

59 

3.66 

405 

96 

3.  0 

100 

23 

5.66 

255 

60 

5.  0 

410 

97 

4.33 

105 

25 

... 

260 

61 

6.33 

415 

98 

5.66 

110 

26 

1.33 

265 

63 

0.66 

420 

100 

SI 


346 


EATING  TABLES. 


Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split, 

Hk. 

Sk. 

425 
430 
435 

101 

102 
103 

1.33 

2.66 
4.  0 

580 
585 
590 

138 
139 
140 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

735 
740 
745 

175 
176 
177 

1.33 
2.66 

440 
445 
450 

104 
105 
107 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

595 
600 
605 

141 

142 
144 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

750 
755 
760 

178 
179 
180 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

455 
460 
465 

108 
109 
110 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

610 
615 
620 

145 
146 
147 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

765 

770 
775 

182 
183 

184 

1.  0 
2,33 
3.66 

4*70 
475 

480 

111 
113 
114 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

625 

630 
635 

148 
150 
151 

5.66 
1.33 

780 

785 
790 

185 
186 

188 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

485 
490 
495 

115 
116 
117 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

640 
645 
650 

152 
153 
154 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

795 
800 
805 

189 
190 
191 

2.  0 

3.33 
4.66 

500 
505 
510 

119 

120 
121 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

655 
660 
665 

155 
157 

158 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

810 
815 
820 

192 
194 
195 

6.  0 

0.33 
1.66 

515 

520 
525 

122 
123 
125 

4.33 
5.66 

670 
675 

680 

159 
160 
161 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

825 
830 
835 

196 
197 
198 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

530 
535 
540 

126 
127 

128 

1.33 
2.66 
4.  0 

685 
690 
695 

163 
164 
165 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

840 
845 

850 

200 
201 
202 

1.33 
2.66 

545 

550 
555 

129 
130 
132 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

700 
705 
710 

166 
167 
169 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

855 
860 
865 

203 
204 
205 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

560 
565 
570 
575 

133 
134 

135 
136 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

715 

720 
725 
730 

170 
171 
172 
173 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

870 

875 
880 
885 

207 
208 
209 
210 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

RATING  TABLES. 


347 


Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

1 

1  Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

890 
895 
900 

211 
213 
214 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

1045 
1050 
1055 

248 
250 
251 

5.66 
1,88 

1200 
1205 
1210 

285 
286 
2S8 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

905 
910 
915 

215 
216 
217 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

1060 

1065 

i  1070 

252 
253 
254 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

1215 
1220 
1225 

289 
290 
291 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

920 
925 
930 

219 
220 
221 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

1075 

!  1080 

1085 

255 
257 

258 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

1230 
1235 
1240 

292 
294 
295 

6.  0 

0.33 
1.66 

935 
940 
945 

222 
223 
225 

4.33 
5.66 

1090 
1095 
1100 

259 
260 
261 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

1245 
1250 
1255 

296 

297 

298 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

950 
955 
960 

226 

227 
228 

1.33 
266 
4.  0 

1105 
1110 
1115 

263 
264 
265 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

1260 
1265 
1270 

300 
301 
302 

1.88 

2.66 

965 
970 
975 

229 

230 
232 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

1120 
1125 
1130 

266 
267 
269 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

1275 
1280 
1285 

303 
304 
305 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

980 
985 
990 

233 
234 
235 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

1135 
1140 
1145 

270 
271 

272 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

1290 
1295 
1300 

307 
308 
309 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

995 

1000 
1005 

236 
238 
239 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

1150 
1155 
1160 

273 

275 
276 

5.66 
1.88 

1305 
1310 
1315 

310 
311 
313 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

1010 
1015 
1020 

240 
241 

242 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

1165 
1170 
1175 

277 
278 
279 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

1320 
1325 
1330 

314 
315 
316 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

1025 
1030 
1035 
1040 

244 

245 
246 
247 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

1180 
1185 
1190 
1195 

280 
282 
283 
284 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

1335 
1340 
1345 
1350 

317 

319 
320 
321 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

348 


EATING  TABLES. 


Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

1355 

1360 
1365 

322 
323 
325 

4.33 
5.66 

1510 
1515 

1520 

359 
360 
361 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

1665 
1670 
1675 

396 
397 
398 

3  .0 
4.33 
5.66 

1370 
1375 
1380 

326 

327 

328 

1.33 

2.66 
4.  0 

1525 
1530 
1535 

363 
364 
365 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

16S0 
1685 
1690 

400 
401 
402 

1.33 
2.66 

1385 
1390 
1395 

329 
330 
332 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

1540 
1545 
1550 

366 
367 
369 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

1695 
1700 
1705 

403 
404 
405 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

1400 
1405 
1410 

333 
334 
335 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

1555 
1560 
1565 

370 
371 
372 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

1710 
1715 
1720 

407 
40S 
409 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

1415 
1420 
1425 

336 
338 
339 

6.33 

0.66 
2.  0 

1570 
1575 
1580 

373 
375 
376 

5.66 

i'.ss 

1725 
1730 
1735 

410 
411 
413 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

1430 
1435 
1440 

340 
341 
342 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

1585 
1590 
1595 

377 
378 
379 

2.66 
1  0 
5.33 

1740 
1745 
1750 

414 
415 
416 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

1445 
1450 
1455 

344 

345 
346 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

1600 
,  1605 
!  1610 

380 
3S2 
383 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

1755 
1760 
1765 

417 
419 
420 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

1460 
1465 
1470 

347 

348 
350 

4.33 
5.66 

\   1615 
1620 
1625 

384 
385 
386 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

1770 
1775 

1780 

421 
422 
423 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

1475 
1480 
1485 

351 
352 
353 

1.33 

2.66 
4.  0 

1630 
1635 
1640 

388 
389 
390 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

17S5 
1790 
1795 

425 
426 
427 

1.33 
2.66 

1490 
1495 
1500 
1505 

854 

355 
357 
358 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

1615 
1650 
1655 
1660 

391 
392 
394 
395 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

1S00 
1805 
1810 
1815 

42S 
429 
430 
432 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

RATING  TABLES. 


349 


Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

1  Split. 

Ilk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

1820 
1825 
1830 

433 
434 
435 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

1975 
19S0 
1985 

470 
471 

472 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

2130 
2135 
2140 

507 
508 
509 

1.  0 

2.33 
3.66 

1835 
1840 
1845 

436 

438 
439 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

1990 
1995 
2000 

473 
475 

476 

5.66 
1.33 

2145 
2150 
2155 

510 
511 
513 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

1850 
1855 
1860 

440 
441 
442 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

2005 

1  2010 

2015 

477 

478 
479 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

2160 
2165 
2170 

514 

515 
516 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

18G5 
1870 
1875 

444 
445 

446 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

2020 
2025 
2030 

480 

482 
483 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

2175 
2180 
2185 

517 
519 
520 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

1880 
1885 
1890 

447 
448 
450 

4.33 
5.66 

2035 
2040 
2045 

484 

485 
486 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

2190 
2195 
2200 

521 
522 
523 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

1895 
1900 
1905 

451 

452 
453 

1.33 
2.66 
4.  0 

2050 
2055 
2060 

488 
489 
490 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

2205 
2210 
2215 

525 

526 
527 

1.88 

2.66 

1910 
1915 
1920 

454 
455 

457 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

2065 
2070 
2075 

491 

492 
494 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

2220 
2225 
2230 

528 
529 
530 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

1925 
1930 
1935 

458 
459 
4U0 

2.33 

3.66 
5.  0 

2080 
2085 
2090 

495 
496 
497 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

2235 
2240 
2245 

532 
533 
534 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

1940 
1945 
1950 

461 
463 
464 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

2095 
2100 
2105 

498 
500 
501 

5.66 
1.88 

2250 
2255 
2200 

535 

536 
538 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

1955 

1960 
1965 
1970 

465 

466 
467 
469 

3.33 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

2110 
2115 
2120 
2125 

502 
503 
504 
505 

2.66  1 
4.  0  i 
5.33 
6.66 

2265 
2270 
2275 

2280 

539 
540 
541 
542 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

350 


EATING  TABLES. 


Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

2285 
2290 
2295 

544 
545 
546 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

2440 
2445 
2450 

580 
582 
583 

6.66 
1.  0 

2.33 

2595 
2600 
2605 

617 
619 
620 

6  .0 

0.33 
1.66 

2300 
2305 
2310 

547 

548 
550 

4.33 
5.66 

2455 
2460 
2465 

584 
585 
586 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

2610 
2615 
2620 

621 
622 
623 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

2315 
2320 
2325 

551 
552 
553 

1.33 
2.66 
4.  0 

2470 
2475 
2480 

588 
589 
590 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

2625 
2630 
2635 

625 
626 
627 

1.33 
2.66 

2330 
2335 
2340 

55  i 
555 
557 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

2485 
2490 
2495 

591 
592 
594 

4.66 
5.  0 
0.33 

2640 
2645 
2650 

628 
629  l 
630 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

2345 
2350 
2355 

558 
559 
560 

2.33 

3.66 
5.  0 

2500 
2505 
2510 

595 
596 
597 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

2655 
2660 
2665 

632 
633 
634 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

2360 
2365 
2370 

561 
563 
564 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

2515 
2520 
2525 

598 
600 
601 

5.66 
1.33 

2670 

2675 
2680 

635 

636 
6b8 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

2375 
2380 
2385 

565 
566 
567 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

2530 
2535 
2540 

602 
603 
604 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

2685 
2690 
2695 

639 
640 
641 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

2390 
2395 
2400 

569 
570 
571 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

2545 
2550 
2555 

605 
607 
60S 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

2700 

2705 

,  2710 

642 
644 
645 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

2405 
2410 
2415 

572 
573 
575 

4.33 
5.66 

2560 
2565 
2570 

609 
610 
611 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

2715 
2720 
2725 

646 
647 
648 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

2420 
2425 
2430 
2435 

576 
;  577 
;  578 
1  579 
! 

1.33 
2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

2575 
25S0 
25S5 
2590 

613 
614 
615 
616 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

2730 
2735 
2740 

2745 

650 

:  651 

652 

653 

1.88 

2.66 
4.  0 

RATING  TABLES. 


351 


Split. 

Hk. 

SI, 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split, 

Hk. 

Sk. 

2750 
2755 
27GO 

654 
655 
657 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

2905 
2910 
2915 

691 

692 

091 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

3060 
3065 
3070 

728 
729 
730 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

2765 
2770 
2775 

658 
659 
660 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

2920 
2925 
2930 

695 
696 
697 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

3075 
3080 
3085 

732 
733 
734 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

2780 
2785 
2790 

661 
663 
664 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

2935 
2940 
2945 

698 
700 
701 

5.66 
1.33 

3090 
3095 
3100 

735 

736 
738 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

2795 
2800 
2805 

665 
666 
667 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

2950 
2955 
2960 

702 
703 
704 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

3105 
3110 
3115 

739 
740 
741 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

2810 
2815 
2820 

669 
670 
671 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

2965 
2970 
2975 

705 

707 
708 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

3120 
3125 
3130 

742 

744 
745 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

2825 
2830 
2835 

672 
673 
675 

4.33 
566 

2980 
2985 
2990 

709 
710 
711 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

3135 
3140 
3145 

746 
747 

748 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

2840 
2845 
2850 

676 

677 
678 

1.33 
2.66 
4.  0 

2995 
3000 
3005 

713 

714 
715 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

3150 
3155 
3160 

750 
751 

752 

1.33 
2.66 

2855 
2860 
2865 

679 
680 
682 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

3010 
3015 
3020 

716 
717 
719 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

3165 
3170 
3175 

753 
75  4 

755 

4.  0 
5.33 
6.66 

2870 

2875 
2880 

683 
684 
685 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

3025 
3030 
3035 

720 
721 

722 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

3180 
3185 
3190 

757 
758 
759 

1.  0 

2.33 
3.66 

2885 
2890 
2895 
2900 

686 
688 
689 
690 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

3040 
3045 
3050 
3055 

723 

725 
726 

727 

5.66 

1.33 

2.66 

3195 
3200 
8205 
3210 

760 
761 
763 
764 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

352 


EATING  TABLES. 


Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

Split. 

Hk. 

Sk. 

3215 
3220 
3225 

765 
766 
767 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

3370 
3375 
3380 

802 
803 
804 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

3525 
3530 
3535 

839 
840 
S41 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

3230 
3235 
3240 

769 
770 
771 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

3385 
3390 
3395 

805 

807 
80S 

6.66 
1.  0 
2.33 

3540 
3545 
3550 

842 
844 
845 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

3245 
3250 
3255 

772 
773 

775 

4.33 

5.66 

3400 
3405 
3410 

809 
810 
811 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 

3555 
3560 
3565 

846 

847 
848 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

3260 
3265 
3270 

776 
777 

778 

1.33 

2.66 
4.  0 

3415 
3420 
3425 

813 
814 

815 

0.66 
2.  0 
3.33 

3570 
3575 
3580 

850 
851 
852 

1.33 
2.66 

3275 
3280 
3285 

779 
780 
782 

5.33 
6.66 
1.  0 

3430 
3435 
3440 

816 
817 
819 

4.66 
6.  0 
0.33 

35S5 
3590 
3595 

853 

854 
855 

4.  0 

5.33 
6.66 

3290 
3295 
3300 

783 
784 
785 

2.33 
3.66 
5.  0 

3445 
3450 
3455 

820 
821 

822 

1.66 
3.  0 
4.33 

3600 
3605 
3610 

857 
858 
859 

1.  0 
2.33 
3.66 

3305 
3310 
3315 

786 
788 
789 

6.33 
0.66 
2.  0 

3460 
3465 
3470 

823 
825 
826 

5.66 
1.33 

3615 
3620 
3625 

860 
861 
863 

5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

3320 
3325 
3330 

790 
791 
792 

3.33 
4.66 
6.  0 

3475 
3480 
3485 

827 
828 
829 

2.66 
4.  0 
5.33 

3630 
3635 
3640 

864 
865 
868 

2.  0 
3.33 
4.66 

3335 
3340 
3345 

794 

795 
796 

0.33 
1.66 
3.  0 

3490 
3495 
3500 

830 
832 
833 

6.66 
1.  0 

2.33 

3645 
3650 
3655 

867 
869 
870 

6.  0 
0.33 
1.66 

3350 
3355 
3360 
3365 

797 

798 
800 
801 

4.33 
5.66 

1.33 

3505 
3510 
3515 
3520 

834 
835 
836 
838 

3.66 
5.  0 
6.33 
0.66 

3660 
3665 
3670 
3675 

871 

872 
873 
875 

3.  0 
4.33 
5.66 

POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  353 


CHAPTER  IX. 

MISCELLANEOUS  REMARKS  CONNECTED 
WITH  POWER-LOOM  WEAVING. 


ERECTING  A  NEW  FACTORY. 

Before  commencing  to  build  a  power-loom  factory 
it  is  requisite  for  the  projector  to  make  considerable 
enquiry,  to  obtain  knowledge  concerning  things  that 
are  likely  to  contribute  to  the  success  of  the  under- 
taking, such  as  feu-duty,  or  ground-rent,  situation  as 
to  workers;  coals,  water;  the  market  where  the  yarn 
is  to  be  bought,  and  the  cloth  sold;  the  form  of  the 
mill;  the  kind  of  boilers,  engines,  gearing,  machinery,  <fcc. 

There  is  no  doubt  but  a  populous  district  is  the 
best  place  for  workers,  and  would  be  a  good  situation 
for  a  factory,  provided  there  is  no  other  obstacle  to 
make  the  quantity  of  workers  no  object,  such  as  the 
ground  rent,  local  taxes,  water,  coals,  &c,  being  so 
high  in  price,  as  to  make  the  work  unprofitable ; 
therefore,  all  the  different  circumstances  must  be 
taken  into  calculation.     The  carriage  from  and  to 

TJ 


854  REMARKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

the  market  where  the  yarn  may  be  bought,  and  the 
cloth  sold,  is  not  so  expensive  an  item  as  it  was 
before  steam  was  taken  advantage  of  for  that  purpose, 
and  it  often  happens,  that  the  mills  erected  in  country 
villages  are  as  profitable  as  those  in  the  large  cities. 

When  the  situation  is  fixed  upon,  plans  of  the 
whole  should  be  drawn  out  by  some  party  capable  of 
doing  it,  under  the  direction  of  one  who  is  thoroughly 
acquainted  with  power-loom  weaving.  After  the 
plans  are  finished,  and  the  quantity  of  looms  ascer- 
tained that  will  be  required  to  fill  the  work,  the  cost 
of  the  whole  can  be  calculated. 

It  is  at  once  apparent,  that  to  conduct  a  factory 
for  power-loom  weaving  profitably,  it  must  be  a 
certain  size;  the  smallest  should  not  be  less  than  one 
tenters  charge;  but  even  this  is  by  far  too  small  to 
do  anything  like  a  profitable  business.  A  good  size 
for  giving  an  opportunity  for  our  remarks  would  be 
a  mill  that  could  contain  720  looms,  with  the  neces- 
sary preparation  machines,  &c. 

The  most  approved  form  of  a  weaving  factory,  is 
a  ground  flat  or  shed,  built  so  as  to  be  suitable  for 
getting  the  machinery  placed  to  the  best  advantage, 
some  of  the  reasons  given  for  the  ground  fiat  being 
preferred  over  the  mill  with  four  or  five  flats,  may  be 
stated  here.  The  loom,  when  bolted  down  upon 
heavy  stones,  works  smoother.  The  carriage  of  the 
beams  and   yarn  are  done  with  less  labour.     The 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  855 

atmosphere  is  more  favourable  in  the  ground  flat  for 
weaving.  The  workers  can  be  better  arranged,  and 
are  all  under  the  eye  of  the  manager  at  the  same 
time. 

The  following  description  gives  the  plans  of  what 
is  considered  a  very  good  mill  for  720  I  power-looms. 
The  length  of  the  shed  inside  is  206  feet,  and  the 
breadth  160  feet.  The  looms  are  placed  across  the 
house  in  eighteen  rows,  40  looms  in  each  row;  this 
gives  5  feet  for  each  loom,  and  6  feet  extra  space  at 
the  end  of  the  flat,  where  the  beam  racks,  tenters'  benches, 
&c,  are  placed.  Allowing  8  feet  for  each  loom  and 
passages,  the  eighteen  rows  will  occupy  144  feet  of 
the  breadth  of  the  flat,  leaving  16  feet  at  the  one  side, 
and  the  whole  length  of  the  flat  for  preparation 
machinery,  storeage,  (fee. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  to  have  the 
machinery  and  workers  so  arranged  that  no  time  will 
be  lost  in  passing  the  goods  from  one  place  to 
another  in  the  process  of  manufacturing.  By  attend- 
ing to  this  it  will  add  much  to  the  advantage  of  the 
workers,  and  the  profit  of  the  establishment;  because 
a  constant  communication  is  always  going  on  between 
the  different  parts  of  the  work,  and  what  accelerates 
the  progress  of  the  work  by  saving  time,  must  be  a 
benefit  to  all  concerned.  We  Avill  state  here  what  is 
just  now  considered  the  best  arrangement,  but  would 
advise  new  beginners,  or  those  intending  to  put  up 


356  REMARKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

new  works,  to  visit  a  number  of  factories,  already  in 
operation,  before  deciding  upon  any  plan. 

A  wall  is  built  the  whole  length  of  the  shed,  enclos- 
ing the  looms  from  the  other  machinery,  and  this 
portion  of  the  building  is  made  two  storeys  or  flats, 
which  will  be  160  feet  wide  and  206  feet  long.  A 
portion  of  the  corner  of  the  ground  floor  nearest  the 
entrance  to  the  factory  is  appropriated  for  the  ware- 
house, with  counting-house  above,  it  occupying  only 
a  small  portion  of  the  second  floor.  Next  to  the 
counting-house  is  the  warp-winders,  then  the  warpers, 
and  then  the  tape-leg  dressers,  all  in  the  second  floor. 
"When  the  winders  have  got  the  bobbins  filled,  they 
are  passed  to  the  warpers ;  and  when  the  warpers  have 
got  the  beams  filled,  they  are  sent  on  to  the  dressers  ; 
and  the  dressed  webs  are  lowered  down  to  the  under 
flat,  at  the  opposite  end  from  the  warehouse,  for  the 
purpose  of  being  drawn  into  the  heddles,  or  twisted. 
From  this  place  they  pass  into  the  weaving  shed. 

A  portion  of  the  under  flat,  next  to  the  warehouse, 
is  occupied  as  a  store  for  furnishings  required  for  the 
factory,  and  next  to  it  is  the  yarn  store,  then  the 
mechanics'  shop,  and  as  stated  before,  the  drawers  and 
twisters  are  at  the  end  of  this  under  flat.  This 
arrangement  of  the  different  places  and  machinery 
gives  the  least  possible  distance  for  any  of  the  articles 
to  be  carried,  which  are  required  in  the  manufacture 
of  the  cloth.      The  mechanic  shop  being  at  or  near 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  357 

the  centre  of  the  mill,  places  it  in  the  most  convenient 
part  for  getting  any  repairs  done  to  the  machinery 
that  may  be  required  ;  and  it  is  an  advantage  to  the 
work  to  get  the  Avebs  out  of  the  dressing  place  as  soon 
as  they  are  finished,  for  the  purpose  of  allowing  them 
to  cool  before  being  put  into  the  loom. 

Ten  or  twelve  feet  from  the  mill,  on  this  side  of  it, 
stands  the  engine-house  and  boilers.  The  furnaces  of 
the  boilers  face  the  gate,  through  which  the  carts  pass 
with  the  fuel.  Behind  the  en  cine-house  a  small 
house  is  built,  with  two  apartments,  one  is  used  for 
oil  waste,  and  the  other  for  a  smithy.  This  completes 
the  buildings,  all  except  the  chimney  (or  stalk),  which 
should  be  built  in  some  convenient  place  near  to  the 
boilers,  and  apart  from  the  mill. 


STEAM   BOILERS. 

There  are  so  many  different  kinds  of  boilers  in  use 
for  generating  steam,  for  the  purpose  of  driving  the 
engine  and  heating  the  factory,  that  it  is  difficult  to 
say  which  is  the  best.  Some  people  approve  of  the 
vertical  kind,  which  is  composed  of  a  series  of  tubes. 
Their  advocates  sa}^  they  take  up  less  room,  and  that 
they  generate  a  given  quantity  of  steam  with  less  fuel 
than  any  other,  and  as  the  diameter  of  the  tubes  are 
comparatively  small,  they  stand  a  greater  pressure 


858  r*EMABKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

than  the  common  kind,  consequently  less  liable  to 
burst. 

"Whatever  kind  of  boilers  the  proprietors  adopt,  it 
is  advisable  to  have  them  made  so  as  they  will  stand 
at  least  a  pressure  of  100  lbs.  to  the  square  inch,  and 
then  they  may  be  wrought  with  safety  at  50  lbs.  It 
is  found  to  be  a  saving  of  fuel  to  work  with  high 
pressed  steam  for  driving  the  engine,  but  for  heating 
purposes  it  was  at  first  found  difficult  to  use ;  how- 
ever, this  is  got  over  by  reducing  the  pressure  before 
it  is  allowed  to  go  into  the  mill,  and  for  this  purpose 
an  apparatus  has  been  invented,  and  made  by  Mr. 
Auld,  engineer,  Glasgow,  which  does  its  work  well. 
By  >using  this  apparatus,  a  considerable  saving  is 
made,  and  every  manufacturer  by  power  should  have 
them,  as  the  temperature  of  the  dressing  flat  can  be 
kept  at  the  desired  degree  of  heat  by  making  it  self- 
acting. 

It  is  also  important  that  the  boilers  be  kept  clean. 
The  number  of  times  the  boilers  should  be  cleaned 
during  one  year's  working,  will  altogether  depend 
upon  the  kind  of  water  made  use  of;  the  best  water 
is  the  purest,  or  that  which  contains  the  least  amount 
of  foreign  matter,  such  as  iron,  magnesia,  lime,  &c., 
all  of  which  are  injurious  to  the  boilers,  by  leaving  a 
deposit,  or  incrustation  upon  the  plate3  of  the  boilers, 
not  only  corroding  and  weakening  them,  but  also  pre- 
vents the  perfect  absorption  of  the   caloric  by  the 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  359 

water.  To  remedy  this  defect,  when  pure  water  can- 
not be  profitably  obtained,  various  expedients  have 
been  resorted  to,  but  perhaps  the  best  method  is  to 
have  a  small  cistern  below  the  boiler  and  connected 
to  it,  with  a  blow-off  cock,  the  frequent  use  of  which 
will  go  far  to  keep  the  boilers  clean  ;  and,  if  thought 
proper,  the  water  blown  off  can  be  made  use  of  again 
after  the  objectionable  matter  is  deposited  at  the  bot- 
tom of  the  cistern. 

To  prevent  the  radiation  of  heat  from  the  boilers 
and  the  steam  pipes  connected  to  them,  they  ought  to 
be  well  covered  over  with  some  non-conducting 
substance,  such  as  hair  felt.  •  Every  boiler  should 
have  a  water  and  steam  gauge  ;  they  are  ornamental 
to  the  boilers,  besides  very  useful,  as  the  cngineman 
or  any  other  person  can  sec  the  state  of  the  water  and 
6team  in  the  boilers  at  a  glance.  How  to  calculate 
for  the  weight  to  be  put  on  the  safety  valve,  to  give  a 
given  pressure  per  square  inch,  will  be  seen  in  another 
place. 


FURNACE— SMOKE-BURNING,  &c. 

To  work  engines  economically,  very  much  depends 
upon  the  construction  and  management  of  the  fur- 
naces. It  would  take  up  too  much  space  to  give 
even  a  mere  outline  of  the  different  modes  of  fur- 
naces that  have  been  tried  for  the  saving  of  fuel  and 
tie  burning  of  smoke,  and  although  no  furnace  does 


360  REMARKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

this  to  perfection,  there  are  some  that  come  very- 
near  it ;  and  before  giving  a  description  of  what  is 
considered  the  best  furnace7  we  will  give  an  opinion 
of  an  eminent  engineer  upon  prevention  of  smoke,  to 
show  the  difficulties  that  have  to  be  contended  with. 

He  savs,  "  I  have  approached  this  enquiry  with 
considerable  diffidence,  and  after  repeated  attempts  at 
definite  conclusions,  have  more  than  once  been  forced 
to  abandon  the  investigation  as  inconclusive  and 
unsatisfactory.  These  views  do  not  arise  from  any 
defect  in  our  acquaintance  with  the  laws  which 
govern  perfect  combustion,  the  economy  of  fuel,  and 
the  consumption  of  smoke.  The}'  chiefly  arise  from 
the  constant  change  of  temperature,  the  variable 
nature  of  the  volatile  products,  the  want  of  system, 
and  the  irregularity  which  attends  the  management 
of  the  furnace.  Habits  of  economy  and  attention  to 
a  few  simple  and  effective  rules  are  either  entirely 
neglected  or  not  enforced.  It  must  appear  obvious 
to  every  observer,  that  much  has  yet  to  be  done, 
and  much  may  be  accomplished,  provided  the 
necessary  precautions  are  taken  ;  first  to  establish, 
and  next,  to  carry  out  a  comprehensive  and 
well  organized  system  of  operations.  If  this 
were  accomplished,  and  the  management  of  the  fur- 
nace consigned  to  men  of  intelligence,  properly 
trained  to  their  respective  duties,  all  these  difficulties 
would  vanish,  and  the  public  might  not  only  look 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  361 

forward  with  confidence  to  a  clear  atmosphere  in  the 
manufacturing  towns,  but  the  proprietors  of  steam 
engines  would  be  more  than  compensated  by  the 
saving  of  fuel,  which  an  improved  system  of  manage- 
ment and  a  sounder  principle  of  operation  would 
ensure.  The  attainment  of  these  objects — the  pre- 
vention of  smoke,  and  the  perfect  combustion  of  fuel, 
are  completely  within  the  reach  of  all  those  who 
choose  to  adopt  measures  calculated  for  the  sup- 
pression of  the  one  and  the  improvement  of  the 
other." 

It  has  been  found  from  a  series  of  experiments 
made  with  the  furnace  about  to  be  explained,  that 
besides  consuming  the  smoke  (as  near  perfection  as 
any  yet  in  use),  a  considerable  amount  of  saving  was 
made  in  fuel;  and  it  has  proved  highly  successful 
in  numerous  instances  where  it  has  been  applied. 
The  peculiar  arrangement  of  the  serrated  bars, 
together  with  the  movement  imparted  thereto,  effec- 
tually prevents  the  formation  of  clinkers,  and  at  the 
same  time  introduces  a  large  volume  of  air,  which 
becomes  thoroughly  heated  before  it  reaches  the 
gaseous  matters  evolved  from  the  fresh  fuel,  which 
are  thus  flashed  into  flame,  and  the  invisible  vapour 
only  passes  off  from  the  chimney. 

Supposing  this  furnace  be  applied  to  a  common 
boiler,  the  brick- work  of  it  is  arranged  in  the  ordinary 

way.     The  furnace-mouth  and  dead-plate  are  of  the 

ui 


362  REMAKES  CONNECTED  WITH 

usual  kind;  the  back  end  of  the  ash  pit  is  formed  of 
a  cast-iron  plate;  beneath  the  furnace  bars  on  each 
side  is  a  tubular  shaft,  which  forms  air  passages;  these 
shafts  or  air  tubes  are  supported  at  the  front  end  by 
curved  brackets,  from  the  dead-plate  of  the  furnace. 
If  found  preferable,  the  front  ends  of  the  air-tubes 
may  be  supported  on  the  inner  side  by  a  semi-circular 
pendent  bracket,  cast  on  the  under  side  of  the  dead- 
plate,  and  outside  by  a  corresponding  moveable  sup- 
port bolted  up  to  the  dead-plate.  The  back  end  of 
each  air-tube  passes  through  and  rests  in  the  cast-iron 
plate,  which  forms  the  end  of  the  furnace  and  back- 
bridge. 

The  fire-bars  are  arranged  across  the  furnace  at 
right  angles  to  its  length,  and  rest  upon  the  air- 
tubes.  On  the  inner  portions  of  the  peripheries  of 
the  air-tubes  are  cast  the  laterally  projecting  teeth, 
which  act  as  cams  to  raise  each  alternate  fire-bar, 
when  the  air-tube  is  turned  partially  round.  The 
fire-bars  are  cast  with  laterally  projecting  teeth  or 
serrations,  the  end  teeth  and  one  in  the  centre  being 
made  a  little  longer  than  the  others,  so  that  when 
arranged  on  the  air-tubes,  the  bars  are  placed  close 
together,  these  teeth  serving  to  give  steadiness  to  the 
bars,  and,  at  the  same  time,  leave  a  sufficient  space 
between  the  intervening  teeth.  Each  tooth  of  one 
bar  enters  the  corresponding  recess  of  the  contiguous 
bar,  but  the  elongated  teeth  at  the  ends  and  centres 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  363 

are  the  only  ones  which  touch  the  neighbouring  bar. 
The  bars  next  the  inner  end  of  the  dead-plate,  and 
also  the  back-plate,  are  made  with  shorter  teeth,  but 
the  edges  of  these  plates  might  be  serrated  to  cor- 
respond with  the  front  and  back  bars.  The  other 
bars  are  put  into  their  places,  and  arranged  parallel, 
filling  up  the  longitudinal  extent  of  the  furnace  to  the 
back-plate,  which  forms  part  of  the  back  bridge.  The 
cams  on  the  air-tubes  are  made  with  recesses  at  the 
central  part  of  each,  and  these  are  arranged  at  such  a 
a  distance  asunder,  that  the  lower  part  of  each  bar 
falls  into  one  of  these  recesses  on  the  one  side,  and  at 
the  other  into  the  space  between  the  cams.  From 
this  arrangement,  it  follows,  that  if  the  air-tubes  are 
turned  partly  round,  each  alternate  bar  will  be  raised 
up  at  the  end  next  the  tube  acted  upon. 

When  the  furnace  is  working,  the  stoker,  from  time 
to  time,  lifts  the  bars,  by  moving  the  air-tubes,  the 
result  of  which  breaks  up  the  fuel,  allows  the  ash  to 
fall  through,  and  prevents  the  formation  of  clinkers. 
The  raising  of  the  bars,  from  time  to  time,  has  also 
the  effect  of  causing  a  large  body  of  air  to  pass  into 
the  fuel,  and  it  is  thus  kept  in  a  state  of  intense  com- 
bustion. The  arrangement  of  this  furnace,  with  its 
double  back  bridge  and  air-valve,  along  with  the  air- 
tubes,  provides  for  the  effectual  combustion  of  the 
inflammable  portion  of  the  gaseous  matter  evolved, 
and  this  prevents  the  emission  of  visible  smoke  from 


364  KEMAEKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

the  chimney.  A  description  of  this  furnace,  along 
with  drawings  of  it,  are  given  in  the  Practical 
Mechanics'  Journal,  for  April,  1862. 


STEAM  ENGINE. 

When  the  size  of  the  factory  will  admit  of  it,  it  is 
better  to  drive  the  machinery  with  two  engines  than 
with  one,  as  the  motion  will  be  more  regular  and 
steady.  It  is  impossible  to  have  a  good  working 
loom  with  an  irregular  drive.  The  advantage  to  be 
gained  by  using  two  engines,  besides  the  regular 
motion,  is,  that  less  fuel  is  required' to  drive  the 
machinery.  The  two  engines  are  connected  in  such 
a  manner,  that  when  the  one  has  no  power  the  other 
will  have  its  greatest  power,  and  that  the  steam  is 
made  to  enter  the  first  cylinder  at  a  high  state  of 
pressure.  When  the  steam  has  done  its  work  with 
the  first  engine,  it  enters  the  cylinder  of  the  second ; 
the  cylinder  of  the  second  engine,  having  a  capacity 
four  times  larger  than  the  cylinder  of  the  first,  the 
steam  is  allowed  to  expand,  consequently,  the  pressure 
will  be  only  as  one  to  four ;  but  as  this  engine  is  con- 
nected to  the  condenser,  it  receives  the  advantage  of 
the  vacuum. 

By  using  the  steam  for  driving  the  engines,  and 
connecting  them  as  described  above,  very  little  of  the 
steam  is  lost,  and  very  little  of  the  power  is  consumed 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  365 

driving  a  large  fly  wheel,  which  would  be  requisite  to 
regulate  the  motion  if  only  one  engine  was  employed. 
Also,  when  two  or  three  are  working  together,  and 
they  are  properly  arranged,  very  little  expense  will 
be  required  for  the  water  used  for  condensing  the 
steam.  A  great  deal  might  be  said  concerning  steam 
engines,  but  a  few  hints  is  all  that  is  requisite  for  our 
purpose. 

All  the  working  parts  in  connection  with  the  engine 
should  be  regularly  cleaned  and  oiled.  The  large 
journals  should  have  self-acting  oil-cups,  which  will 
save  both  time  and  oil.  A  steam-gauge,  also  a 
vacuum  one,  should  be  fixed  in  some  conspicuous 
place  in  the  engine-house,  to  show  the  working  state 
of  the  engine. 

To  give  the  manager  or  proprietor  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  the  number  of  strokes  the  engines  make  in 
one  hour,  day,  or  week,  an  indicator,  for  that  pur- 
pose, should  be  connected  to  the  engines.  This  indi- 
cator should  be  one  of  those  kinds  that  will  show 
what  day,  and  the  hour  of  that  day,  the  engines  have 
been  below  or  above  their  regular  speed.  If  any 
accident  happens  which  allows  the  engines  to  run  far 
beyond  their  regular  speed,  there  is  a  danger  of  some- 
thing being  broken,  and,  to  prevent  this,  the  gover- 
nor should  be  so  constructed  that  it  will  shut  off  the 
steam  entirely.  Few  engines  have  this  kind 
of  governor,  but  it  is  better  to  prevent  breakages 


366  miARKS  co^"ected  with 

than  repair  thern,  therefore,  it  is  advisable  for  every 
engine  proprietor  to  take  the  advantage  of  it. 


GEARING. 

Supposing  the  speed  of  the  looms  to  be  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  picks  per  minute,  the  shafts  for  driving 
them  should  make  nearly  that  number  of  revolutions 
per  minute,  so  that  there  may  be  very  little  difference 
between  the  diameter  of  the  loom  pulley  and  the 
drum  that  drives  it ;  and  it  is  advantageous  to  have 
the  speed  of  the  shafts  brought  up  to  the  number  of 
revolutions  required,  as  near  the  engine  as  possible, 
if  it  is  not  convenient  to  have  it  done  at  the  engine. 
By  having  the  shafts  running  at  a  high  speed,  shaft- 
ing of  a  much  lighter  description  will  answer  the 
same  purpose,  which  will  be  a  saving  in  the  first  cost 
when  erecting  a  new  mill.  Before  giving  the  calcu- 
lations for  common  gearing,  we  will  give  a  description 
of  driving  looms  without  belting. 


DRIVING  LOOMS  WITHOUT  BELTING. 

The  outlay  for  gearing  and  belts  amounts  to  a  con- 
siderable sum  for  a  new  work,  and  the  expense  in 
keeping  up  the  belts  after  the  mill  is  started,  has 
caused  experiments  to  be  made  to  ascertain  how  to 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  367 

do  away  with  the  present  mode  of  driving  looms. 
The  most  likely  plan  is  to  drive  them  with  frictional 
gear,  on  the  following  system.  Suppose  the  flat  or 
shed  to  have  twenty  looms  in  one  row,  and  six  rows 
in  the  breadth  of  the  flat,  this  will  require  three 
shafts  (which  we  will  name  long  shafts)  the  whole 
length  of  the  mill,  these  shafts  being  driven  by  a  cross 
shaft  at  the  end  of  the  flat.  Each  of  the  long  shafts 
will  drive  forty  looms.  The  looms  are  set  in  the 
usual  way,  all  in  a  straight  line.  These  long  shafts 
are  supported  with  brackets,  which  are  bolted  to  the 
ends  of  the  looms,  so  that  the  long  shaft  will  be  on  a 
level  with  the  top  shafts  of  the  looms.  For  each  pair 
of  looms  there  is  a  bevel  pulley  on  the  long  shaft, 
made  in  all  respects  the  same  as  a  bevel  wheel  with- 
out teeth.  On  the  end  of  the  top  shaft  of  each  loom, 
there  is  a  bevel  pulley,  made  to  correspond  to  the  one 
on  the  long  shaft.  This  pulley  on  the  loom  shaft  is 
made,  so  as  it  can  be  shifted  in,  or  out  of  gear  with 
the  pulley  on  the  long  shaft.  The  handle  of  the 
loom  is  of  the  common  kind,  and  the  lever  that  is 
made  to  shift  the  belt  in  the  usual  way  of  driving,  is 
made  to  act  upon  the  back  of  the  pulley  on  the  loom 
shaft.  When  the  loom  is  to  be  put  in  motion,  the 
handle  is  pulled  into  the  notch  in  the  same  manner 
as  for  a  loom  driven  with  a  belt,  and  a  sufficient 
strength  of  spring  is  given  to  the  handle,  so  as  to 
press  the  pulley  into  contact  with  the  other  pulley,  to 


368  REMARKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

drive  the  loom.  It  will  be  obvious,  that  the  pulley 
on  the  loom  shaft  will  require  to  be  shifted  a  very 
small  space,  for  the  purpose  of  putting  it  in  gear  with 
the  other,  therefore,  a  very  small  movement  of  the 
lever,  at  the  pulley,  is  required,  whieh  makes  the 
loom  driven  in  this  way  easier  put  on  than  when 
driven  with  a  belt. 

This  plan  of  driving  looms  will  necessitate  the  long 
shafts  to  be  boxed  in  where  they  cross  the  passes. 
This  is  no  objection,  but  rather  an  advantage  to  the 
weavers,  if  it  is  properly  done,  as  they  will  have 
a  place  for  holding  their  weft  boxes  and  cloth. 
Another  very  important  advantage  in  this  mode  of 
driving  looms,  is,  that  all  clanger  of  being  caught  with 
the  belts  is  most  effectually  got  quit  of ;  in  fact,  it  is 
at  first  cheaper,  it  is  kept  up  with  less  expense,  it  is 
cleaner,  because  there  is  no  teethed-gear  to  throw  out 
dirty  grease,  and  it  looks  much  neater.  There  are 
some  trifling  things  connected  with  putting  the  pulley 
in  and  out  of  gear,  which  have  not  been  explained, 
but  which  will  be  apparent  to  any  practical  mechanic. 


CALCULATION   OF  SPEEDS. 

We  propose  to  show  briefly  the  method  of  calculat- 
ing the  speed  of  the  different  shafts  and  machines 
connected  with  a  power-loom  factory. 

The  first  thing  to  be  done  is  to  find  the  speed  of 
the  engine,  which  is  got  by  counting  the  number  of 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  369 

strokes  it  makes  during  one  minute;  each  stroke  of 
the  engine  is  equal  to  one  revolution  of  the  first 
shaft;  and  it  may  be  remarked,  that  most  of  the  old 
engines  are  driven  far  too  slow  to  get  the  full  advan- 
tage out  of  them.  Although  engineers  are  not  agreed 
among  themselves  about  the  proper  speed  that  an 
engine  should  be  driven  at,  we  may  state  what 
speed  has  been  found  in  practice  to  answer  very 
well.  An  engine,  with  a  five  or  six  feet  stroke, 
may  be  driven  at  the  rate  of  350  feet  per 
minute,  without  any  apprehension  of  danger  by 
breakages. 

For  illustration, — suppose  the  crank  shaft  of  thq 
engine  makes  thirty  revolutions  per  minute ;  multiply 
the  number  of  teeth  which  is  in  the  wheel  on  the 
crank  shaft  by  the  number  of  revolutions,  and  divide 
the  product  by  the  number  of  teeth  in  the  pinion, 
which  gears  into  this  wheel  for  driving  the  first 
shaft;  and  the  answer  will  be  the  speed  of  the  first 
shaft.  The  speed  of  the  other  shafts  are  found  in 
the  same  manner,  ahvays  multiplying  the  teeth  in  the 
driving  wheel  by  the  number  of  revolutions  of  the 
driving  shaft,  and  dividing  by  the  teeth  in  the  driven 
pinion  for  the  speed  of  the  driven  shaft;  the  driven 
shaft  sometimes  also  becomes  a  driver,  but  this  makes 
no  difference  in  the  mode  of  calculation.  If  the 
wheel  on  the  crank   shaft  has  128  teeth,  and   the 

XI 


370  EEMAEKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

pinion  on  the  first  shaft  64  teeth,  then  the  speed  will 
be  found  as  follows: — 

EXAMPLE. 

Number  of  teeth  in  driving  wheel     128 

Speed  of  engine  per  minute  30  strokes. 


The  number  of  teeth  in  pinion    64)3840(60  speed  of  the  first  shaft. 

384 

But,  as  already  stated,  it  is  better  to  bring  up  the 
speed  of  the  shafts  as  near  the  engine  as  possible;  and 
for  this  purpose  the  pinion  should  have  only  32  teeth, 
as  in  the  following  example: — 

EXAMPLE. 

Number  of  teeth  in  driving  wheel     128 

Speed  of  engine  per  minute  30  strokes. 


The  number  of  teeth  in  pinion    32)3840(120  speed  of  the  first  shaft. 

32 


64 
64 


This  wheel,  with  the  128  teeth,  is  made  of  sufficient 
weight  so  as  no  other  fly-wheel  is  required  for  the 
engines.  The  first  shaft  passes  from  the  engine- 
house  to  the  weaving  shed,  and  drives  the  long  shaft, 
which  we  will  call  the  second  shaft;  this  second  shaft 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  371 

being  the  one  that  drives  the  cross-shafts  for  the  looms. 
On  to  the  other  end  of  the  first  shaft  is  fixed  a  bevel 
wheel  with  56  teeth,  which  gears  with  one  on  the 
second  shaft  of  50  teeth,  this  will  make  the  speed  of 
the  second  shaft  to  be  134.4  revolutions  per  minute. 

EXAMPLE. 

The  first  shaft  makes  per  minute         120     revolutions. 
The  numher  of  teeth  in  driving  wheel  56 


720 

600 


Number  of  teeth  in  the  driven  wheel  50)6720(134.4  speed  of  2d  shaft. 

50 


172 
150 

220 
200 

200 

200 


By  putting  on  metre  wheels  on  the  second  and 
cross-shafts,  the  speed  of  the  cross-shafts  will  also  be 
134.4  revolutions  per  minute.  On  these  cross  shafts 
are  hung  the  drums  for  driving  the  looms,  and  if  the 
looms  are  to  be  driven  at  150  picks  per  minute,  and 
the   driving  pulleys  of  the  looms   be  11  inches  in 


372  REMARKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

diameter,  the  diameter  of  the  drum  will  be  found  by 
multiplying  the  speed  of  the  loom  by  the  diameter  of 
the  loom  pulley,  and  dividing  by  the  speed  of  the 
shaft. 

EXAMPLE. 

Speed  of  the  loom  per  minute     150     picks. 
Diameter  of  loom  pulley  11     inches. 


Speed  of  the  shaft  134.4)1650.0(12.27 

1344 


3060 
2638 


3720 
2688 

10320 
9408 


912 


This  shows  the  diameter  of  the  drum  to  be  12.27 
inches,  to  give  the  loom  150  picks  per  minute;  but,  sup- 
posing the  drum  to  be  14  inches  in  diameter,  and  the 
speed  of  the  loom  is  required  with  a  pulley  10  inches 
in  diameter,  multiply  the  speed  of  the  shaft  by  the 
diameter  of  the  drum  in  inches,  and  divide  the  pro- 
duct by  the  diameter  of  the  loom  pulley. 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  373 


EXAMPLE. 


Speed  of  shaft  per  minute  134.4 

Diameter  of  Drum  iu  inches  14 


5376 
1344 

Diameter  of  loom  pulley         10)18810(188.1     speed  of  loom. 

10 

88 
80 

81 

80 

16 
10 


We  do  not  require  to  give  examples  how  to  find 
the  speed  of  the  shafts  for  driving  the  winding,  warp- 
ing, and  dressing  machine,  as  the  same  principle  of 
calculating  speeds  apply  to  all.  But  the  young 
inquirer  may  wish  to  know  the  speed  that  these  diffe- 
rent machines  should  be  driven  at.  This  very  much 
depends  upon  the  kind  of  work  these  machines  have 
got  to  perforin,  and  the  quality  and  fineness  of  yarn 
that  is  used  in  the  f  Therefore,  we  would 

advise  those  who  have  not  got  practical  experience, 


374  REMARKS  CONNECTED  WITH 

to  get  the  opinion  of  some  party  who  is  making  the 
same  kind  of  goods  they  intend  to  commence. 


SAFETY  VALVES 

Are  those  valves  that  are  placed  upon  the  top  of  the 
steam  boilers,  or  upon  the  steam  chest,  or  dome,  in 
connection  with  the  boilers.  For  security,  there 
should  be  more  than  one  as  they  are  liable  to  get  out 
of  order;  but  our  object  is  to  give  a  simple  rule  how 
to  find  the  weight  that  should  be  put  upon  the  lever, 
to  produce  a  given  pressure  upon  a  square  inch. 
Suppose  the  surface  of  the  valve,  where  the  steam  acts 
upon,  to  be  six  inches  in  diameter,  multiply  the  dia- 
meter of  the  valve,  which  is  six  inches,  by  6,  and  the 
product  by  7854,  and,  after  taking  off  the  four  figures 
to  the  right  hand,  the  remainder  is  the  number  of 
square  inches  contained  in  the  valve,  6  x  6  is  36. 

EXAMPLE. 

.7854 
36 


47124 
235G2 

28.2744 


This  shows  28  square  inches  to  be  in  the  valve  after 
throwing  off  the  fraction;  and  suppose  that  30  lbs.  to 
the  square  inch  is  required,  then  28  x  30  is  equal  to 


POWER-LOOM  WEAVING.  375 

840  lbs.,  the  weight  required  for  a  valve  of  six  inches 
in  diameter.  When  it  can  be  conveniently  done,  it 
is  safer  not  to  use  a  lever;  but  if  a  lever  is  to  be  used 
it  must  be  taken  into  calculation. 


QUADRANT. 

A  Quadrant,  as  used  by  weavers,  is  an  instrument 
for  weighing  yarn  to  find  its  size ;  they  are  made  for 
1  hank,  8  hanks,  or  16  hanks.  It  is  divided  into  a 
certain  number  of  parts,  and  each  part  is  numbered 
to  show  the  size  of  the  yarn.  Every  manufacturer 
should  have  one  of  them,  or  a  small  beam  and  scale, 
with  proper  weights,  which  are  by  some  considered 
preferable. 


NEW  MODE  OF  PICKING. 

After  the  description  of  Messrs.  W.  &  J.  Todd's 
patent  loom  was  in  type,  Mr.  Hunter,  of  Messrs. 
William  Hunter  &  Co.,  their  agents  for  Scotland, 
showed  us  a  new  arrangement  of  picking  they  had 
brought  out,  which  can  be  readily  applied  to  the 
ordinary  loom.  From  what  the  writer  saw  of  it,  it 
appeared  to  be  a  very  good  method,  and  well-deserv- 
ing of  a  trial.  Drawings  of  this  new  mode  of  picking 
can  be  seen  at  Messrs.  W.  Hunter  &  Co.'s  Office,  79 
Glassford  Street,  Glasgow. 


•-» 


B.  H.  HILL  LIBRARY 

North  Carolina  9tata  CoU«M 


INDEX 


377 


INDEX. 

Page. 

Page. 

Air  pump  pick 

-     123 

Chain 

- 

36 

Allowance  for  waste 

-       46 

Charges 

- 

302 

Arrangement  of  looms 

-     104 

Check  and  damask  pow 

er- 

Art  of  weaving 

-       33 

looms 

- 

153 

Articles  about  a  loom 

-     147 

Check   loom   for   six   shut- 

Average size  of  yarn 

-       37 

tles     - 

- 

197 

Check  tape 

- 

294 

Bags,  weaving,  for  rice 

and 

Circumference  of  reel 

- 

34 

sugar 

-     279 

Cloth  beam 

- 

14S 

Barrel,  double 

-     241 

Cloth,  double 

- 

272 

Beam,  yarn  on 

-       35 

Cloth,  plain     - 

- 

78 

Beam,  yarn 

-     148 

Cloth,  three  ply 

- 

284 

Beam,  cloth     - 

-     149 

Common  power-loom 

- 

125 

Beamers'  tables 

-     307 

Connection  rods 

- 

147 

Beaming 

-       66 

Cope 

- 

36 

Bed  covers 

-     280 

Cords,  weft 

- 

290 

Bed  tick 

-       81 

Costing  goods 

- 

297 

Belt,  length  of 

-     105 

Cotton,  price  of 

- 

27 

Blanket,  tweel 

-       88 

Covers,  bed  and  toilet 

- 

280 

Blue  and  white  cross-over        50 

Crank  shaft 

- 

147 

Board,  hole 

-     171 

Cross-over 

- 

50 

Breast  beam     - 

-     150 

Cnimb-cloths 

- 

284 

Bullough's  specification 

-     127 

Cylinder  machine 

- 

73 

Bundle    - 

-       34 

Damask  power-loom 

- 

153 

Calculation  of  speed 

-     368 

Damask  tweels 

- 

89 

Calculation  of  wefts 

-       50 

Dents     ... 

- 

41 

Calculations,  tables,  &c. 

-     297 

Description,  Todd's 

- 

138 

Calculation  of  warps 

43-45 

>  Diaper,  three  leaf    - 

90-91 

Cams  or  wypers 

-     150 

i  Diaper,  four,  five,  and 

six 

Carpets 

-     287 

leaf     -         -         -   92-95-263 

y  i 


378 


INDEX. 


Page. 

Page. 

Diaper,    seven    and    eight 

Hindoo  mode  of  weaving 

10 

leaf     - 

97-265 

Holland,  Window     - 

49 

Diaper,  ten  leaf 

100-267 

Diapers,  mounting  for 

- 

234 

Introductory  remarks 

9 

Diaper  and  plain  cloth 

- 

255 

Diced  work 

- 

271 

Jaconet,  1200  - 

50 

Double  barrel 

- 

241 

Jacquard  machine 

181 

Double  cloth  mounting 

- 

272 

Jane  stripes     - 

80 

Double  loom    - 

- 

119 

Draughts  and  treading 

- 

77 

Lappet  loom 

207 

Drawing 

76 

Lappet  weaving 

205 

Dressing 

68- 

Lappet  wheel 

208 

Driving  pulleys 

- 

147 

Lay         .... 
Lay,  Lappet    - 

149 
212 

Eight  leaf  diapers 

98- 

Leads      - 

169 

Eight  leaf  tweel 

- 

86 

Linen  yarn       ... 

37 

Entering  or  drawing 

- 

76 

Loom,  Bullough's     - 

125 

Expenses  for  one  year 

- 

303 

Loom,  check  for  six  shuttle 

197 

Expenses,  how  to  find  the 

305 

Loom,  double 

119 

Loom,  common  power 

125 

Five  leaf  diaper 

- 

92 

Loom,  power    - 

102 

Five  leaf  tweel 

- 

84 

Loom,  Todd's 

137 

Five   leaf   tweel    for    table 

Loom,  vertical 

120 

covers 

- 

89 

Float  or  scob  preventer 

141 

Machine,  cylinder 

73 

Fly  reed 

- 

126 

Machine,  Tape-leg  dressing 

74 

Four  leaf  diaper 

- 

92 

Mails      -         -    "     - 

168 

Four  leaf  tweel 

- 

82 

Manufacturers'  tables 

307 

Frames,  sewing 

- 

227 

Manufacturers'  rating  tables 

345 

Friction  dressers 

- 

72 

Motion,  uptaking 

151 

Gauze  stripes 

- 

222 

Mounting  a  harness  loom 

168 

Gearing 

152-366 

Mounting  for  diapers 

262 

Goods,  costing 

- 

297 

Mounting  for  ten  and  twelve 

Grist  of  Yam  - 

- 

33 

leaf  diapers 
Mountings    for    tweels, 

256 

Hanks     - 

. 

34 

diapers,  &c. 

234 

Hanks,  short  method  to  find 

the      - 

- 

46 

Needles,  lappet 

211 

Harness  board 

- 

171 

Nine  leaf  tweel 

87 

Harness  pressure 

- 

185 

New  mode  of  picking 

375 

Harness,  to  mount  a 

- 

168 

Harness,  to  prepare  the 

172 

Old  power-loom 

115 

Harness  twine 

- 

169 

Oncost  or  charges     - 

302 

Heddles,  three  set  of 

- 

272 

Herring  bone  tweel 

- 

81 

Picking,  new  mode  of 

375 

TNDEX. 


379 


Pick,  air-pump         -         -  123 

Picking  arm    -         -  150 

Picking  stick             -          -  151 

Pinion,  to  find  the  proper  112 

Pins  for  lappets         -          -  211 

Pirn  winding  57 

Pitch,  to,  the  loom  -          -  107 

Plain  and  diaper  cloth        -  255 

Plain  and  tweel  stripes  •-  255 
Plain  and  tweel,  four  shots  of  254 
Plain  and   tweel  with    weft 

cords             -         -          -  290 

Plain  cloth                          -  78 

Porters  41 
Power-looms   -          -        102-115 

Pressure  harness  loom        -  185 

Price  of  Cotton         -         -  27 

Progress  of  weaving           -  25 

Prospect  of  the  cotton  trade  29 

Protector         -         -         -  109 

Quadrant         -  375 

Quantity  of  cloth  woven    -  29 

Rating  tables  for  manufac- 
turers          -         -         -  344 
Rating  for  a  blue  and  white 

check            -         -         -  300 

Rating  for  a  12°°tape  check  299 

Rating  for  a  shirting          -  298 

Rating,  form  of  book  for    -  301 


Reed,  English 

-       41 

Reed,  fly          -         - 

-     126 

Reed,  Scotch   - 

-       39 

Reel 

-       33 

Rice  bags 

-     279 

Rocking  Shaft 

-     149 

Rods,  connection 

-     147 

Rollers,  stenting 

-     194 

Safety  valves  - 

-     374 

Scale  of  Reed 

-       40 

Scob  preventer 

-     141 

Scotch  ell        -         - 

-       40 

Set  of  Reed     - 

-       40 

Seven  leaf  diaper 
Seven  leaf  tweel 

Page. 

-  97 

-  86 

Sewing  frames  for  looms 

-     227 

Shaft,  crank     - 

-     147 

Shaft,  rocking 

-     149 

Shaft,  wyper    - 
Shedding 

-  148 

-  196 

Shirting 
Shuttle  changer 
Six  leaf  tweel 

49 

-  144 

-  85 

Six  leaf  diaper 

-      97 

Sixteen  leaf  tweel 

-       90 

Sixteen  leaf  mounting 

Sizing     - 

-  261 

-  68 

Skein      ... 

-       34 

Slabstock 

-     170 

Speed,  calculations  of 

-     368 

Spinning 

Spyndle 

Stanclers 

-  36 
34-38 

-  172 

Starching 

-       69 

Starting  power-looms 
Statement  of  expenses 
Stenting  rollers 

-  102 

-  303 

-  194 

Sugar  bag  weaving   - 
Swords   ... 

-  279 

-  149 

Tables,  manufacturers',  war- 
pers', and  beamers',        -     307 
Tape  checks  made  with  one 

shuttle  -  -  -  294 
Tape-leg  dressing  machine  74 
Ten  leaf  diaper  -  -  100 
Three  leaf  diaper  -  91-263 
Ticking  80 

Todd's  patent  loom  -     137 

Toilet  covers    -         -         -     280 
Top    mounting    for    large 

tweels  -         -     259 

Treading  77 

Treadles  -         -         -     247 

Tube  weaving  -         -     275 

Tweeling  ...       79 

Tweel  and  plain  alternately     254 
Tweel,  blanket  -         -       88 


380 


INDEX 


Tweels,    damask,    ten  and 

twelve  leaf  -         -  -       89 

Tweel,  four  leaf        -  82-237 
Tweel,  five  leaf        -    84-89-242 

Tweel,  six  leaf       >    -  85-250 

Tweel,  sixteen  leaf    -  -       90 

Tweels,  mounting  for  -     234 

Tweel,  three  leaf       -  -       80 

Tweel,  herring  hone  -       81 
Tweels,  seven,  eight  and  nine 

leaf     -         -         -    86-87-251 

Twine,  harness          -  -     169 

Twist  -       36 

Twisting  76 

Two  wehs  in  one  loom  -     120 

Uptaking  motion      -  116-151 

Vertical  loom             -  -     120 

"Warping          -         -  -       58 

Warp  in  a  weh         -  43-45 

Warping,  striped  work  -       61 

Warpers'  tahles        -  -     307 


Page. 

Weaving 

-       54 

Weaving  hroad  cloth 

in  a 

narrow  loom 

-     284 

Weaving,  diaper 

-       90 

Weaving,  lappet 

-     205 

Weaving,  tube 

-     275 

Web  glass 

-       40 

Web,  starting  the     - 

-     219 

Wefts,  calculation  of 

-       50 

Weight  of  bundle     - 

-       36 

Wheel,  lappet 

-    208 

W  inding 

-       55 

Window,  Holland     - 

-       49 

Wool  yarn 

-       39 

Worsted  yarn 

-       39 

Wypers  or  cams 

-     150 

Wyper  shaft    - 

-     148 

Yards  in  a  spyndle   - 

-       39 

Yarn       ... 

-      33 

Yarn  beam 

-     148 

Yarn  in  chain 

-      35 

Yarn  on  beam 

-       35 

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